Spark plug comment, please?

[Kivi]

Can I gen some comments for the spark plug, please? Regarding AFR and whatever is important.
It's from my bike, ZS200GY-A 169FML pushrod, CDI.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Kivi

Can I gen some comments for the spark plug, please? Regarding AFR and whatever is important.
It's from my bike, ZS200GY-A 169FML pushrod, CDI.

Have you had the carburetor off of the engine? If so, I hope you checked that the float level was parralel with the carb body when you turned it upside down. I say that because it looks to me as if the main jet is right, but it is over fueling at low speeds...ARH

[Kivi]

I did remove the carb off the engine, but I do not really remmember how the float was while the carb was disassembled.
EDIT: I just found a photo which I took when the carb was off. It's from 13th may Does this answers Your question ARH?

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Kivi

I did remove the carb off the engine, but I do not really remmember how the float was while the carb was disassembled.
EDIT: I just found a photo which I took when the carb was off. It's from 13th may Does this answers Your question ARH?

No. I need to see a picture from the side. Can't go by that picture, as short focus lenses cause distortion. If you can get the float bowl off while it is still on the bike, just push up on the float VERY GENTLY until you feel it stop, and look to see if the bottom of the float is in parallel with the edge of the carb body where the float bowl attachs. If the part is in parallel, it is in what is now called the "default" position. If it droops up away from the hinge point (as the carb is mounted on the bike) = over rich. If it shows going down from the hinge point = over lean...ARH

[Megadan]

What size jets and needle setting do you currently have in the carburetor? I agree with the assessment that it is definitely a bit rich at some point, but otherwise about right. The plug is getting just hot enough to self clean the soot off the electrode, but a bit sooty everywhere else.

[Kivi]

I have the pics of the jets too.
main jet 125KB
main jet 98
smaller jet k40
needle 126KA

Carb is Sheng Wey PD10

[2LZ]

The rounded cooked porcelain and white deposits on the tip make me think it's lean. You'll always get some blackening around the outer edge. Looks hot (lean). What's your plug heat range?
Drop your needle clip to the middle and see what happens. 98 main is pretty small.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Kivi

I have the pics of the jets too.
main jet 125KB
main jet 98
smaller jet k40
needle 126KA

Carb is Sheng Wey PD10

You have the needle clip in the leanest possible position. Some thing is wrong, somewhere. I wonder if the previous owner drilled out the pilot jet, and went too far. Or the float level is too high...ARH

[Kivi]

2LZ, A.R.H., these photos of jets and needle are from long ago. On the spark plug photos, the needle was at the 4th position from the top (almost the richest position). In this position, the bike is having a little hesitation (?) at lower RPM when accelerating from stop. Spark plug is NGK D8EA, so, 2LZ, it is 8.

[JerryHawk250]

the 40 pilot jet is on the fat side. a 25-30 pilot would be better. 98 main is to small. maybe need a 110-115. If you have a source for the pilot jets please let me know. Those jets are impossible to find.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

the 40 pilot jet is on the fat side. a 25-30 pilot would be better. 98 main is to small. maybe need a 110-115. If you have a source for the pilot jets please let me know. Those jets are impossible to find.

I agree that a 40 pilot jet is pretty rich, and a 98 main jet is real lean. If it has a stock exhaust system, a 105 - 110 should work better, but don't do that if you can't find the pilot jet that JerryHawk250 reccomends. That is the problem with Sheng Wei carbs, at least the new ones supplied on Hawks, is that you can't change pilot jets without tapping the carb where the pilot jet goes. Your bike being older, maybe you can change pilot jets....now to find them!...ARH

[Kivi]

Hey friends,
I post here again, after a while.
Today I found motivation to remove the carb from the bike, to inspect float height and clean it and also take physical measurements of the jets, so I can order new, as you recommended. I didn't take photos.
The float level was low, if I am correct. The position of the float, at the point of just touching the spring needle, was pointing down (carb in normal position). I adjusted it so that at the point of float just touching the spring, the float level is parralel to the carb body. I think I made it good, but......
Another think I have done is clean the jets, the carb.....cleaned the air filter...
Anyway, I went for a test drive, and at some point of throttle, arround 1/4 to 1/2 of throttle (can not say exactly) there is hesitation, bike would not pull, like it would die. If I give it more throttle, it will overcame the hesitation and will pull very well! If I take off the throttle it will continue to run.
Before todays work there was no hesitation at all. So, any suggestions of what I have done wrong?

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by Kivi

Hey friends,
I post here again, after a while.
Today I found motivation to remove the carb from the bike, to inspect float height and clean it and also take physical measurements of the jets, so I can order new, as you recommended. I didn't take photos.
The float level was low, if I am correct. The position of the float, at the point of just touching the spring needle, was pointing down (carb in normal position). I adjusted it so that at the point of float just touching the spring, the float level is parralel to the carb body. I think I made it good, but......
Another think I have done is clean the jets, the carb.....cleaned the air filter...
Anyway, I went for a test drive, and at some point of throttle, arround 1/4 to 1/2 of throttle (can not say exactly) there is hesitation, bike would not pull, like it would die. If I give it more throttle, it will overcame the hesitation and will pull very well! If I take off the throttle it will continue to run.
Before todays work there was no hesitation at all. So, any suggestions of what I have done wrong?

Put a shim under the needle or move the clip down a notch. You are having lean hesitation from where the needle transition is the strongest. When you crank open the throttle more the main jet starts contributing to the fuel more and it richens up, hence why it comes back strong.

[Kivi]

Will try, thanks Megadan.
I forgot to ask something else.
While air filter was removed and carb mounted, I started the engine and revved it few times and watched what is going on. I noticed that on 1/2 and bigger throttle openings the fuel and air mixture is spraying OUT from the carb toward the air filter side!!! On smaller throttle no spray. That explains why my air filter smells on petrol. I also made a video: https://mega.nz/#!CUxy3Q5Z!F4R3y-IZF...Y9lw1R6AmUUTWs
Is this normal???!
Please, don't be confused with the drops of WATER all over the carb and bike on the video, it is just water, from another source. Pay attention when I revv it.

[Megadan]

Check your valve lash.