Fried Solenoid for lunch anyone?

[davisbm2]

So I am about to buy my 3rd solenoid...

What I think keeps happening is the solenoid is getting a low voltage, causing an internal arc and welding the internal parts in place.

What is causing my low voltage? My battery is reading fine. Can it be a bad ground, and if so how is that killing solenoids?

[ben2go]

Backtrace the wiring and see if there is a short or bad connection.

[NzBrakelathes]

Stop buying $3 solenoids
low voltage at the button side wouldn't cause it to arc it would cause it to not latch correctly.

I suspect you have an under rated unit, it is basicly a relay and if it draw too many amps thru contact to starter.... fried unit

Buy 1 for a Yamaha or something else that is known quality, the 2 small wires the orientation doesn't matter at all

[ben2go]

Solenoids and relays are electromagnetic switches. Same thing.



Try a relay rated for a 250cc engine or larger.


https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-SM...language=en_US


https://www.amazon.com/DB-Electrical...language=en_US

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by davisbm2

So I am about to buy my 3rd solenoid...

What I think keeps happening is the solenoid is getting a low voltage, causing an internal arc and welding the internal parts in place.

What is causing my low voltage? My battery is reading fine. Can it be a bad ground, and if so how is that killing solenoids?

You don't specify which engine, or bike is having this problem, so my comment is more general in nature. An electric motor is designed and manufactured to operate in a certain voltage window. It will do it's job as long as it gets enough power (watts) to do the job. If it doesn't get enough voltage it will draw more amperes of current to make up the difference. More amps mean more heat. More heat can fry a barely adequete solenoid. Before it fries the starved starter motor. So, yes it could be a low voltage problem. The size of the wires coming off of the battery are barely adequete when the bike is brand new, and crimped on ring terminals don't help any. Corrosion starts from the day these parts are made, that's why skimpy wires cause problems. If you go to CSC's site, they have original equipment solenoids for these motors under parts for the TT 250. Repeated solenoid problems implies sub-standard solenoids. Heavier guage main wires with soldered on terminals and an original equipment solenoid should solve your problems...ARH

[DualSport]

Probably caused by the charge circuit(P and Y from the stator harness) not being properly regulated by the regulator. You'd test on R and G from the regulator. R splices the R between the ignition switch and battery-positive fuse.

I'd guess it's related to what causes them to flood when battery is low even though CDI and coil are on a separate stator output(The visible B/R wire with the inline connector).. People seem to think this is normal behavior..