X-pect running like it low on fuel

[Redleader]

I have about 920 miles been good so far aside for the normal maintenance, chain stretch ect. Today I jumped on to go see if my favorite fishing spot was over run and it started fine but in 3rd it would start jerking, but fine if I stayed in 1-2 and kept the revs high. Then I was around the corner from my house and it would die. It was acting like when you are at the bottom of your tank and it was start then just roll offline. I finally kept it going with high revs so I though maybe water? I ran it through all the gears down and empty street fast and now it seems to be doing fine. No warning light, I did just put in ethanol free fuel by fuel can. My thoughts are as it rained last night the tank full gasket leaked a little or water in my gas can?

On another note since it has a check engine light does where is the service port? I have a rather expensive autel scanner for my vehicles could that work?

[JerryHawk250]

Have you adjusted the valves yet? Just take my word and do so if you haven't. Solves all kinds of issues.

[Redleader]

I definitely haven’t yet. Looks like that what I’ll be doing tomorrow morning. I left for like 2 hours and came back and it normally starts first time but this time it to a slow roll. I’m wondering if the gas is bad. To much time in the sun and I brought it from TN as I can’t find ethanol free near hampton va. Anyways thanks for the heads up. Ima drain all the gas out, check my valves and hopefully tomorrow the update will be good.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Redleader

I definitely haven’t yet. Looks like that what I’ll be doing tomorrow morning. I left for like 2 hours and came back and it normally starts first time but this time it to a slow roll. I’m wondering if the gas is bad. To much time in the sun and I brought it from TN as I can’t find ethanol free near hampton va. Anyways thanks for the heads up. Ima drain all the gas out, check my valves and hopefully tomorrow the update will be good.

If the valves are set too tight what happens is once it heats up and metal expands the valve clearance basically goes to no clearance then the valves stop sealing and you loose compression.

[Redleader]

Yeah I watched a video and the guy said things and I was like yep that sounds right. So all my experience is cars/helicopters not small engines. Same concept to adjust, find TDC check measurements. How do you find it? Not a fan of how he did it, short starting burst. I get what he’s doing but if he’s just a little off feel like it could throw it off worst. The book says .03in. .05out but I also read Lifan updated to .06 both.

[JerryHawk250]

Check the sticky at the top of this section. http://www.chinariders.net/showthrea...t=29991&page=2

[Boatguy]

Originally Posted by Redleader

Yeah I watched a video and the guy said things and I was like yep that sounds right. So all my experience is cars/helicopters not small engines. Same concept to adjust, find TDC check measurements. How do you find it? Not a fan of how he did it, short starting burst. I get what he’s doing but if he’s just a little off feel like it could throw it off worst. The book says .03in. .05out but I also read Lifan updated to .06 both.

I did this yesterday.

I found it really easy to just spin the engine with the valve cover off until you see the intake valve go down, and then come back up.

From there, carefully continue rotating it so that the “T |” Mark lines up with the little notch in the viewing hole.

Note, the engine is rotated forward using the little rotation nut on the left side of the engine.

So when you are facing the left side of the engine sitting on the ground, turn that nut anti-clockwise. To the left.

Once you get things lined up, it’s pretty standard as to what you already know from the other engines I’m sure.

I did .06 mm yesterday and it is like a brand new engine now. Never ran this good even from day one.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Boatguy

I did this yesterday.

I found it really easy to just spin the engine with the valve cover off until you see the intake valve go down, and then come back up.

From there, carefully continue rotating it so that the “T |” Mark lines up with the little notch in the viewing hole.

Note, the engine is rotated forward using the little rotation nut on the left side of the engine.

So when you are facing the left side of the engine sitting on the ground, turn that nut anti-clockwise. To the left.

Once you get things lined up, it’s pretty standard as to what you already know from the other engines I’m sure.

I did .06 mm yesterday and it is like a brand new engine now. Never ran this good even from day one.

And now the student becomes the teacher.

[Redleader]

I wish I had checked this before I did it. Cause my dumbness was trying to use the kickstart to rotate but as you can figure wasn’t easy, I thought about a car where you use your front crank but. So I saw the silver plug removed it and and did exactly as you said. There was no gap in my valves. With my feeler huge I could only do 599 or 609 so I set it at the higher since they tighten over time. It ran like a champ, it did shut down a few times, the first I think it had air in the fuel lines cause I left just a little gas in and rode to a station then after words they were take offs which is generally my fault. Anyways thanks you everyone that commented and those that haven’t check your valves. It was fine one day, then not the next (the day it messed up was also a scorcher of a day)

[Redleader]

Well I just realized I done fudged up, don’t try to do alot of things at once. I did my valve lash but like a dummy instead of doing .06mm I used .609mm so tomorrow morning doing it all over again. Good training hooah