Fork oil change necessary on new hawk?

[Sray1013]

I've read that it's a good idea to change all fluids on the hawk, when new. Did this include firm oil? If so are there instructions available?

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Sray1013

I've read that it's a good idea to change all fluids on the hawk, when new. Did this include firm oil? If so are there instructions available?

Yes, although I'm not sure what you mean by firm oil. You should change the oil in the engine, the front forks, and change the brake fluid, front and rear. Changing the fork oil is a lot easier if you do it before assembling the bike. Just take the forks out of the triple trees, take the caps off and turn them upside down over a catch basin of some sort. Then after they drain, refill with 200cc's of either ATF or boutique fork oil, and re-install on the bike...ARH

[Megadan]

It is definitely recommended. They dont come with a good quality oil in them to begin with, and they are usually unevenly filled. My right fork had twice as much as my left one.

If you arent sure how to do this, do a search on YouTube. The process is pretty much universal. Front wheel needs to be removed, caliper unmounted from the left fork so they can be removed. Loosen the top clamps, use a wrench or socket to loosen the caps a little. Loosen the lower clamps - 2 bolts on each side. Be prepared to catch them in case they fall out on their own. Then remove the fork leg. Carefully remove the fork cap, i put a rag or other cloth over the wrench and hold it and the top of the fork tube with my off hand, once the cap comes free you can then remove the factory preload spacer and then the spring.

After that, as mentioned before, invert to drain. Once it seems like it is drained, pump the tube in and out a couple of times to help drain out any trapped fluid.

As far as fork oil goes, 210ml is a good starting point. You can also measure the air gap for a more accurate and even fill. 210ml on my forks had a 150mm air gap with the fork fully compressed.

Once full, reverse the process. The cap can be a pain to get back on, but be patient and careful that you don't cross thread them. I find it much easier to get them started by pushing the cap down on the tube and turning the fork tube itself a few times. Them use the wrench to seat them. Once you reinstall them only tighten the lower clamps, give the fork caps a good snug up, adjust the forks so they are level with the top tree if needed, then tighten all of the clamps.

[Sray1013]

Excellent responses. Thanks a ton!

[bigdano711]

Wow, I just did the fork oil change after about 1600 miles of riding on the original stuff. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!! So much smoother in the gravel where before it was vibrating my wrists to shreds. I did it the lazy/motocheez way, just drained and replaced. I'm happy to report that the spacers were much longer in my bike at 35mm. I still replaced them with 40mm spacers.


I am very grateful for this place and a special thanks to Megadan. I set my RC trucks up the same way...follow the pro's. Without this wealth of knowledge, I would be lost. In fact, finding this place was the last push I needed to take the leap and buy a Hawk.

[Do©Hawk]

This needs to be my next maintenance/improvement. My front end feels kind of harsh over rougher surfaces. I'm at 2400 miles and I don't think the fork oil was ever changed.

[bigdano711]

Man, I couldn't tell you what the fluid was that came out of my forks, but it was blackish gray and smelled like an old crusty train yard.