hellcat clutch assembly help needed

benhonda · 07-09-2019, 10:13 PM

the new clutch came for my hellcat
I have it on the bike but am unsure about these 3 parts, in fact I'm not positive if one even came from the bike or was just on the floor

The part I'm unsure about is also damaged, a bit out of round on one end.

The second pic is using the 2 parts I am sure go to the bike and how I think they go. Just not certain and don't want to bolt it up and damage the new clutch due to not assembling it correctly.

benhonda · 07-09-2019, 10:58 PM

I figured this part out, the extra part was a locator dowel for the cover.

Sadly though, even with a new clutch and trying all sorts of clutch cable adjustments, the clutch will not dissengage

On the positive side, the new mikuni carb let the bike fire right up and idle like a purring kitten.

benhonda · 07-10-2019, 02:27 PM

Took the bike for a short ride, enough to row through all the gears.
The clutch will not fully disengage, it's not a problem with the cable or lever.
So, even with a new clutch I'm where I was when I bought the bike...upshifts are OK, downshifts you have to get the revs right and when you come to a stop there is just enough drag on the motor while you have the clutch lever in and the brake on to stall the engine. The new mikuni carb has it running much better but without a proper working clutch the bike is just a nice garage ornament! I've tried google searches, searching on youtube and this site but can't find anything like the issue Im having. Lots of info on how to free up a totally stuck clutch or how to adjust if your clutch won't fully engage...but nothing dealing with a new clutch that won't fully disengage.

**JerryHawk250** · 07-10-2019, 04:02 PM

Did you inspect the clutch lever cam (not sure if that's the correct name for it) for damage? this will be located on the side cover. This is what pushes the rod to engage and disengage the clutch.

benhonda · 07-10-2019, 04:16 PM

yes, I've had it out.
I don't see anything wrong with it.

benhonda · 07-11-2019, 06:09 PM

So I messaged the guy I bought the bike from...
He said the shop that rebuilt the engine put on a new clutch.
So that New clutch, and the new clutch I just put on both fail to fully disengage.
I'm now wondering if there is a missing piece, shim or spacer, that should go behind the clutch? If there were, and it were missing, then the clutch would be spaced away from the cover, thus preventing the cam button from pushing the clutch far enough in to fully disengage. It is just a theory, but why would 2 new clutches both have the same problem? I really wish I had an exploded view from this engine...or had at least bought it before he took it to the shop...I think they one he took it to probably were used to motorcycles and not chinese bikes...either that or they just rushed the job.

RedCrowRides · 07-12-2019, 03:43 PM

I'm not sure where to even begin looking for an on line exploded diagram of the clutch assembly for a TaoTao Hellkat , forum member "human being" shows up from time to time and works such miracles out of hand , maybe he will come by .
That said , i tend to agree with you, these are all mass produced stock parts so if the clutch wont disengage on one, it wouldn't on any. , the only variable is adjustment and I trust you have tried about every combo possible, there has to be a spacer , shim , or spring missing somewhere that is affecting the travel or something.

I'm sure it is super frustrating to be this close to having a ridable, usable machine

and not be able to get past this ,I wish i had the knowledge to help you more but so far the only dealings i have had with the clutch on my Vader 125 was to put 3 stronger springs in there .

bogieboy · 07-13-2019, 09:11 AM

maybe this will help? appears to be a slightly different style clutch, but shoud work the same...

benhonda · 07-17-2019, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bogieboy

maybe this will help? appears to be a slightly different style clutch, but shoud work the same...

Yeh, I watched all those, it doesn't seem like mine is missing any shim, spacer or any other parts...looks and goes together just like the video.

I have contacted partskit to see if the engine side cover they have listed includes the clutch cam/and related parts. They don't list them seperately but also don't show them in the side cover pics. If it does include all those parts, its only $30 shipped and would rule out damaged side cover, worn clutch cam/button and such. I don't seen any excessive wear or damage on any of those parts, but then again, I've never worked on this stuff before.

But so far, partskit hasn't impressed me. I bought a new flasher relay and engine gear indicator switch...only received the flasher relay with no notification as to why. And it was 2 days ago that I asked what is included with the engine side cover, still waiting on a reply. I really wish there were some other places that offered all the parts for this bike. Ebay and amazon usually have parts for anything Im working on. Ebay did have a whole engine, but Im pretty sure it was a dropship listing as it had long delivery time and was listed at $1200!

But I still have some hope of sorting out the issues and having a cool bike. Would be nice to take a joy-ride with it being 100 degrees all week long.

dirtbkr188 · 07-17-2019, 07:51 PM

Do you have the part indicated below in place, inside the clutch cover? It is commonly referred to as the "top hat", when you squeeze the lever, the clutch actuator pushes the top hat inward, against the throwout bearing on the outer clutch cover, to disengage the clutch. The amount of pressure to move that top hat is beneath the small outer cover with the two screws

benhonda · 07-17-2019, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dirtbkr188

Do you have the part indicated below in place, inside the clutch cover? It is commonly referred to as the "top hat", when you squeeze the lever, the clutch actuator pushes the top hat inward, against the throwout bearing on the outer clutch cover, to disengage the clutch. The amount of pressure to move that top hat is beneath the small outer cover with the two screws

Yes, that part is there. The clutch will partly disengage, but not fully. Without that part, it would not disengage at all.

dirtbkr188 · 07-18-2019, 08:15 AM

And, you've adjusted the set screw under the outer cover so the plate is just barely touching the actuator arm? All of the slack in the cable is taken out, and you only have a "nickel width" between the perch and lever when you can feel the cable pulling on the actuator arm?

dirtbkr188 · 07-18-2019, 08:21 AM

07-10-2019, 04:02 PM	#4
JerryHawk250 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Houma, La. Posts: 11,571	Did you inspect the clutch lever cam (not sure if that's the correct name for it) for damage? this will be located on the side cover. This is what pushes the rod to engage and disengage the clutch. __________________ 2023 Lifan Lycan 250 Chopper 2023 Venom Evader 2022 Lifan KPX250 2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S 2004 Honda ST 1300 2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold) Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster 2016 Cazador180 XL 2014 Coolster150 JerryHawk250.com My YouTube Channel
	0

07-12-2019, 03:43 PM	#7
RedCrowRides Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Florida Posts: 759	I'm not sure where to even begin looking for an on line exploded diagram of the clutch assembly for a TaoTao Hellkat , forum member "human being" shows up from time to time and works such miracles out of hand , maybe he will come by . That said , i tend to agree with you, these are all mass produced stock parts so if the clutch wont disengage on one, it wouldn't on any. , the only variable is adjustment and I trust you have tried about every combo possible, there has to be a spacer , shim , or spring missing somewhere that is affecting the travel or something. I'm sure it is super frustrating to be this close to having a ridable, usable machine and not be able to get past this ,I wish i had the knowledge to help you more but so far the only dealings i have had with the clutch on my Vader 125 was to put 3 stronger springs in there . __________________ 2001 Mustang GT 2004 Sportster 2018 VADER 2020 Orion RXB250L
	0

07-09-2019, 10:58 PM	#2
benhonda Join Date: Jun 2019 Posts: 35	I figured this part out, the extra part was a locator dowel for the cover. Sadly though, even with a new clutch and trying all sorts of clutch cable adjustments, the clutch will not dissengage On the positive side, the new mikuni carb let the bike fire right up and idle like a purring kitten.
	0

07-10-2019, 02:27 PM	#3
benhonda Join Date: Jun 2019 Posts: 35	Took the bike for a short ride, enough to row through all the gears. The clutch will not fully disengage, it's not a problem with the cable or lever. So, even with a new clutch I'm where I was when I bought the bike...upshifts are OK, downshifts you have to get the revs right and when you come to a stop there is just enough drag on the motor while you have the clutch lever in and the brake on to stall the engine. The new mikuni carb has it running much better but without a proper working clutch the bike is just a nice garage ornament! I've tried google searches, searching on youtube and this site but can't find anything like the issue Im having. Lots of info on how to free up a totally stuck clutch or how to adjust if your clutch won't fully engage...but nothing dealing with a new clutch that won't fully disengage.
	0

07-11-2019, 06:09 PM	#6
benhonda Join Date: Jun 2019 Posts: 35	So I messaged the guy I bought the bike from... He said the shop that rebuilt the engine put on a new clutch. So that New clutch, and the new clutch I just put on both fail to fully disengage. I'm now wondering if there is a missing piece, shim or spacer, that should go behind the clutch? If there were, and it were missing, then the clutch would be spaced away from the cover, thus preventing the cam button from pushing the clutch far enough in to fully disengage. It is just a theory, but why would 2 new clutches both have the same problem? I really wish I had an exploded view from this engine...or had at least bought it before he took it to the shop...I think they one he took it to probably were used to motorcycles and not chinese bikes...either that or they just rushed the job.
	1

07-13-2019, 09:11 AM	#8
bogieboy Join Date: May 2013 Location: finger lakes NY Posts: 2,046	maybe this will help? appears to be a slightly different style clutch, but shoud work the same...
	1

07-17-2019, 07:51 PM	#10
dirtbkr188 Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 511	Do you have the part indicated below in place, inside the clutch cover? It is commonly referred to as the "top hat", when you squeeze the lever, the clutch actuator pushes the top hat inward, against the throwout bearing on the outer clutch cover, to disengage the clutch. The amount of pressure to move that top hat is beneath the small outer cover with the two screws
	0

07-18-2019, 08:15 AM	#12
dirtbkr188 Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 511	And, you've adjusted the set screw under the outer cover so the plate is just barely touching the actuator arm? All of the slack in the cable is taken out, and you only have a "nickel width" between the perch and lever when you can feel the cable pulling on the actuator arm?
	1

07-18-2019, 08:21 AM	#13
dirtbkr188 Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 511
	1