Chain jumping?

[ben2go]

The raised section in the center of the black chain guide should be in the center of the chain. If it isn't, check the chain alignment by measuring between the swing arm mounting bolt and the rear wheel axle bolt. They should be the same. I use a little motion pro tool to do my chain alignments and it works wonderfully. They are fairly cheap as well. Vids on youtube showing how to use it.


https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08...2992a06127053e

[ChipToothy]

Originally Posted by Cravin01

Most of us don't have the proper tools but that's the cool part when you can make it happen. plus it gives you a excuse to buy more tools when you can. Just wedge something like a tool box or create, the first thing to leave the ground is the rear wheel.

Make sure you adjust both sides evenly and with the bike in neutral you should be able to turn the wheel to seen if it tracks even and feel the change in tension, Too tight is just as bad.

I was thinking I would have to lay the bike down and hope the gas doesn't pour out lol

[Cravin01]

There ya go! Thank you ben2go. That's a cheap tool.

I think proper tension and alignment well fix this ChipToothy.

[Lit Hawk]

Way too loose!! I’m surprised it hasn’t fallen off yet. That looks like your problem there. Don’t overtighten chain like cravin said that’s just as bad. I’d study vids on tightening chains and making sure straight. Good luck

[ChipToothy]

A seat tube out of a MTB looks exactly like those trail stands they sell. Zip tieing the front brake lever works awesome too!

[Megadan]

Likely the Hawk and TT250 chain slack setting is also good for the Storm as well.

The proper chain tension method requires finding the point of the suspension compression where the chain is at it's tightest and then setting the chain slack with 15mm or 3/5" of vertical movement at that point of compression.

An alternative setting would be with the suspension fully drooped and setting the slack a little more than 1 inch in total movement (28-30mm).

[tomrom]

The Storm manual says the chain should have 10mm to 20mm of play.

[Cravin01]

So basically a safe conversion would be 1/2 an inch to 3/4 for those of us holding on to the old system.

I would venture to say the tightest point would be slightly past the stock setting position, reaching its tightest Just before or past that point with rider weight. My bike has roughly has 3/4 slack at the bottom sitting empty so I'm guessing that's probably in the ballpark.

[ChipToothy]

Ok I moved the wheel first thing this morning. In both tension videos the bike is sitting on its own, no jacks or stands. Here is the after video.

[ben2go]

Originally Posted by Cravin01

There ya go! Thank you ben2go. That's a cheap tool.

I think proper tension and alignment well fix this ChipToothy.

Happy to help.

Originally Posted by tomrom

The Storm manual says the chain should have 10mm to 20mm of play.

One member set the chain with those tolerances and pulled the output shaft out of the back of the engine case after riding the bike. 20mm would be ok if it's set with the suspension in the right spot for chain tightness.

[ChipToothy]

Originally Posted by ben2go

Happy to help.





One member set the chain with those tolerances and pulled the output shaft out of the back of the engine case after riding the bike. 20mm would be ok if it's set with the suspension in the right spot for chain tightness.

The swingarm decal say's 25mm of free rotation but doesn't say anything about suspension position. I gave it an inch of slack while the rear tire was off ground then as seen in the last vid it still has about an inch of slack while the rear tire is on the ground. Have no idea of that's right or not of course.

[ben2go]

Originally Posted by ChipToothy

The swingarm decal say's 25mm of free rotation but doesn't say anything about suspension position. I gave it an inch of slack while the rear tire was off ground then as seen in the last vid it still has about an inch of slack while the rear tire is on the ground. Have no idea of that's right or not of course.

As the swing arm travels through it's arc, there's a point where the chain becomes tight because the sprockets are at their furthermost distance apart. That's where the chain should be at when adjusting. Unfortunately, finding that point is a pain. I have done it without the shock installed on some of my dirt bikes. I set the bike on a jack or something, remove the shock, and get someone to lift/lower the wheel while I watch the chain. When it gets to the tight spot, I wedge a piece of wood under the wheel and set the chain to roughly a half inch of slack. I'm not sure how difficult it would be on the Hawk. A ratchet strap over the seat could work to compress the shock. The seat would need to be protected from the strap and the bike supported on a jack or something.

[Mudflap]

Originally Posted by ChipToothy

The swingarm decal say's 25mm of free rotation but doesn't say anything about suspension position. I gave it an inch of slack while the rear tire was off ground then as seen in the last vid it still has about an inch of slack while the rear tire is on the ground. Have no idea of that's right or not of course.

Major damage can occur if the chain is too tight. My old Lifan needed 3.5 inches of play when on the side stand before I relocated the swing arm pivot point.

[ChipToothy]

So how do you guys set the tension after changing a flat on the side of the road? No work stands, hoist straps or guys hanging out at the shop to help style.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by ChipToothy

Ok I moved the wheel first thing this morning. In both tension videos the bike is sitting on its own, no jacks or stands. Here is the after video.

Too tight!...ARH