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Old 11-14-2018, 07:47 PM   #16
ben2go   ben2go is offline
 
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10-12 ft lbs of torque is all that is needed. Locking washers may help hold better. Don't use nyloc nuts. They will melt and cause a mess that is a futile pain in the rear to clean off if the nuts actually come off.


 
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Old 11-14-2018, 09:00 PM   #17
Ariel Red Hunter   Ariel Red Hunter is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben2go View Post
10-12 ft lbs of torque is all that is needed. Locking washers may help hold better. Don't use nyloc nuts. They will melt and cause a mess that is a futile pain in the rear to clean off if the nuts actually come off.
I agree, don't use nyloc nuts. I used to double nut mine, that way you don't have to over torque them...ARH


 
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Old 11-15-2018, 09:10 AM   #18
davisbm2   davisbm2 is offline
 
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Will a place like AutoZone really have the right studs? I feel like I'm going to bring in the correct stud and they won't have the right length or maybe they don't have metric sizing; and then I'm sure it will $20 a stud.

I feel like AutoZone like stores are good if you have an '89 Silverado, but not so much for Chinese scooters or motorcycles...


 
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Old 11-15-2018, 09:23 AM   #19
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davisbm2 View Post
Will a place like AutoZone really have the right studs? I feel like I'm going to bring in the correct stud and they won't have the right length or maybe they don't have metric sizing; and then I'm sure it will $20 a stud.

I feel like AutoZone like stores are good if you have an '89 Silverado, but not so much for Chinese scooters or motorcycles...
Somebody like NAPA Auto Parts or Orielly's might have a wider selection. If you have to drill and tap new holes you can go with a SAE thread if metric is not available.


I just checked my local Orielly's and they carry them.
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Old 11-15-2018, 09:58 AM   #20
Mudflap   Mudflap is offline
 
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You can always order a stud from a Honda shop if need be.

For removing those studs, rather than trying to drill it out I place a nut over the broken off stud then weld it to the stud with a wire welder. It has worked every time, quick and easy.


 
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Old 11-15-2018, 10:10 AM   #21
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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You can always order a stud from a Honda shop if need be.

For removing those studs, rather than trying to drill it out I place a nut over the broken off stud then weld it to the stud with a wire welder. It has worked every time, quick and easy.
I've used that method many times. Works most the time.
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Old 11-15-2018, 10:33 AM   #22
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This begs the question. How come they don't hold head pipes on with a couple of springs anymore? EPA?
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Old 11-16-2018, 08:16 PM   #23
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bike or boat....never fails you must fix something at the start of the season/
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Old 11-16-2018, 09:48 PM   #24
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I found my exhaust studs at my local Ace hardware store in the.........you guessed it....hardware section of bolts and nuts. You be surprised at what you can find there. They are grade 8 to boot..........to exhaust flange and head will break before the bolt do.
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Old 11-17-2018, 03:12 PM   #25
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They are grade 8 to boot..........to exhaust flange and head will break before the bolt do.
Since the studs in question are metric (M8 x 1.25) the equivalent of grade 8 (SAE) would be grade 10.9.

On my last Hawk and the current one, I upgraded to stainless steel (A2) studs, washers, and nuts. Much like ARH, I use a double nut (main and locking) to secure the head pipe. I have never had one come loose or back out. The mid pipe mount is also crucial to prevent stud breakage (the one on the frame under the seat area). If that is loose and allows the pipe to vibrate it will put a lot of stress on the studs and increase the chance of, or lead up to, failures. I put two large flat washers on each side of the rubber in order to tighten it down enough without completely destroying the rubber in the process.
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Old 11-17-2018, 06:41 PM   #26
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I have over 3000 miles (not kms) on my magician, lost a couple screws/nuts due to vibration unscrewing but no breaks no fractures.

I beat on this bike, I get a solid 3' of air over railroad tracks and ride the speed humps like mougles.

I weight 200lbs


 
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Old 11-18-2018, 08:33 AM   #27
davisbm2   davisbm2 is offline
 
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So I had some luck, kinda.. I bought left handed bits and drilled slowly, stepping the size as I went. Never got the stud to back out, but I did remove material down so far as to start exposing the top of the threads. So I took a metric tap and ran it into the hole, sort of cutting out what was left of the screw.

So I bought new studs at NAPA, added some blue loctite, and installed. I’d say there is a thread engagement of about 60%, hopefully enough to get me another 1000 Miles if I’m careful. No 65mph 100 mile trips anymore... I’m sad about that. But I did take the double nut method which I would recommend doing to the stock machines as part of the setup procedure of these bikes.

I had NOT thought about the exhaust split point putting added stress on the studs, but that makes sense. I’m not sure what rubber part is being referred to but I just tighten the heck out of the metal connector and check it once in a while, is there a better way to provide support there?


 
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Old 11-18-2018, 06:51 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davisbm2 View Post
So I had some luck, kinda.. I bought left handed bits and drilled slowly, stepping the size as I went. Never got the stud to back out, but I did remove material down so far as to start exposing the top of the threads. So I took a metric tap and ran it into the hole, sort of cutting out what was left of the screw.

So I bought new studs at NAPA, added some blue loctite, and installed. I’d say there is a thread engagement of about 60%, hopefully enough to get me another 1000 Miles if I’m careful. No 65mph 100 mile trips anymore... I’m sad about that. But I did take the double nut method which I would recommend doing to the stock machines as part of the setup procedure of these bikes.

I had NOT thought about the exhaust split point putting added stress on the studs, but that makes sense. I’m not sure what rubber part is being referred to but I just tighten the heck out of the metal connector and check it once in a while, is there a better way to provide support there?
You are referring to the flanged pipe connection. I am talking about the mount to the frame behind that.
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Old 11-19-2018, 11:53 PM   #29
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When my studs broke off, the bracket you're talking about Dan.......broke....due to Chinese welding......causing the failure. Now I welded it, time will show if mine is better than Chinese welding? :P
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