What is the top speed on your China Bike?

[sirmaxwell]

Originally Posted by RedCrowRides

My 2018 Gen 2 Vader with an aftermarket exhaust , carb, filter, and CDI runs about 62-65 max , with stock gearing. I have a 17T front sprocket that would help top end but

my primary use is stunting so i need torque more than top end . I have a Sportster i use if I'm going somewhere that would require a long distance hi-speed WFO run on the Vader.


Even given a 17t front sprocket i just dont think you will see more than 65mph and that is with a lightweight rider ,carb, exhaust , etc. and that is flat out at redline on a flat surface ( or downhill lol ).


If you want to do much more than that then you are looking at a Zs190 swap in ,the 5th gear it offers plus more CC is about the only way to get there afaik .

Anything near or over 60mph is probably all I would ever care to hit on my Vader with stock engine and probably would want to change out other parts too if I wanted to ride it on the highway on the regular. SO that's pretty good in my book.
My Vader in stock form seems to it 40 fast enough but that's as fast as I've tried as of yet--I think that was around 6k RPM to hit 40MPH stock on an engine with 40 miles or less and I wasn't trying to go 40 until after I shifted to 4th under 30mph I was like ehh maybe I'll open it up a little even though the speed limit was pretty low

[scoot newb]

Originally Posted by RedCrowRides

my primary use is stunting so i need torque more than top end

How do I 'fat nooner' with a 4 stroke?

[sirmaxwell]

Originally Posted by scoot newb

How do I 'fat nooner' with a 4 stroke?

4 strokes generally make significantly more torque than 2 strokes AT LEAST at low rpms and often thru most of the band so it should be easier with a 4 stroke to wheelie than with a 2 stroke -so the 4 stroke should be able to pull fat ass nooners for days in circles around the 2 strokes.

if you meant how do you wheelie on a 4T vs wheelies on a 2T..

[Azhule]

"It's made by Subaru so you know it will be more reliable than the sun"

I just love seeing and working on Toyotas (along with Ford, Kia, Jaguar, Porsche, Audi, Lotus, Nissan, BMW, Jeep, Dodge, Suzuki, Mercedes, Subaru, Chevy, Lexus, etc....) with the know it all owner. Over the years I have had hundreds of Toyota owners show up with sludged up engines, mainly due to their design and possibly lack of owners maintenance or cheap oil/aftermarket parts (PCV and EGR parts also like to cake up with blow by/carbon that no one bothers to clean...)... tons of $$ was made that day

Engines looking like the one in the link below would show up all the time

https://www.justanswer.com/toyota/7q...-mechanic.html

Not trying to get into a pissing contest over Subaru and "Brand XYZ" is better or worse; I have owned 3 Subarus and 2 Toyotas and would buy from either brand again if the price for power/luxury is right; all I'm saying is every car can have it's issues and lemons... just be happy most of the cars sold today are good at hiding any issues from "improper use"

Fun Fact; Subaru Corporation still owns 16.48% of Toyota; Subaru Corporation/Aerospace Company also makes a few different kinds of airplanes

https://www.subaru.co.jp/en/outline/business_aero.html

Back on topic for this ASE Tech

[scoot newb]

Hmm. IDK fam, I recently hopped on an older RM 80 and it was nooner city. This thing is lacking. Maybe my clone is really f-ed up.

[sirmaxwell]

Originally Posted by Azhule

"It's made by Subaru so you know it will be more reliable than the sun"



Engines looking like the one in the link below would show up all the time

https://www.justanswer.com/toyota/7q...-mechanic.html

Not trying to get into a pissing contest over Subaru and "Brand XYZ" is better or worse; I have owned 3 Subarus and 2 Toyotas and would buy from either brand again if the price for power/luxury is right; all I'm saying is every car can have it's issues and lemons... just be happy most of the cars sold today are good at hiding any issues from "improper use"

Fun Fact; Subaru Corporation still owns 16.48% of Toyota; Subaru Corporation/Aerospace Company also makes a few different kinds of airplanes

https://www.subaru.co.jp/en/outline/business_aero.html

Back on topic for this ASE Tech

wait dont you meant Toyota owns over 16% of Subarus parent company Fuji Heavy Industries that would print their name all over the bad electrical components I had to switch out of countless Subarus at relatively low milage? Or do they both own that much of each other's companies?

[sirmaxwell]

I dont mean to get in an arguement over the brands either I have worked on mostly friends and families cars and spent a few years as a mechanic but really disliked the people i worked for and quit when I got my accounting degree. The one thing all the cars have in common is they all break down. I have seen many probably most people abuse their cars even if they know what they are doing because of time constraints, lack of money or they just cant be bothered to do even basic very neccesary maintainence. I cant remember how many times I have pulled off rotors with holes in them---and i dont mean cross drilled rotors I mean the regular rotors that were up against the backing plate that used to hold brake pads for sooo long that the backing plate went straight thru the rotor all the way around! I remember one time seeing a woman drive her Mercedes in when i worked at a full service Meineke--she hadn't changed her oil in between 20,000-30000 miles and it was solid in the bottom of the oil pan when we pulled it!

[sirmaxwell]

Originally Posted by scoot newb

Hmm. IDK fam, I recently hopped on an older RM 80 and it was nooner city. This thing is lacking. Maybe my clone is really f-ed up.

I can't argue against the Rm-80. maybe gearing and other parts that came factory on the Rm are just better.
On a side note I've heard many people saying 2-strokes will be dead before long I guess mostly due to emissions--even the top of the line direct injection clean ones its like they have already pretty much done all they can to clean up emissions on those so as the new CARB and Euro emissions keep getting tougher plus many, not all but many companies have been getting away from making them partially or sompletely andaren't investing in new 2T tech. I don't think we will see them too much longer.
I used to love my 2 stroke mopeds and an old dirtbike my brother had and my hedge trimmer and chain saw.

and oops I meant to say b4 the 4stroke makes more torque per cycle and at the same RPM the 2T has twice as many cycles. Still I have seen people do all sorts of grom and grom clone wheelies, personally Im not very good at wheelies

[RedCrowRides]

For the question about Grom clone wheelies :


First off ,you will be amazed at how much these bikes pick up in performance once completely broken in at about 300 - 500 miles, over how they feel when brand new and under 50 miles on the clock.
Secondly, again it is amazing how well these bikes respond to aftermarket carbs and exhausts ,the stock carb is so lean and the stock pipe has a cat built in and is ultra restrictive that replacing them really wakes the bike up even more so than years past.
Some people do run a 14t front sprocket in order to add a little extra low end grunt for stunting but this will have a negative impact on top end speed if that is a concern,I run my stock 15t and I'm fine.
YouTube has plenty of Grom clone wheelie vids using stock motor ,with carbs and pipes only .,Amari drummer has a near bone stock Vader here :



Maybe one day i will actually use my GoPro 3 and make a video of me on mine, i figure since the battery has been in the charger for about six months since i bought the GoPro used off Ebay its prolly ready to use lmao.

[sirmaxwell]

Originally Posted by RedCrowRides

For the question about Grom clone wheelies :


First off ,you will be amazed at how much these bikes pick up in performance once completely broken in at about 300 - 500 miles, over how they feel when brand new and under 50 miles on the clock.
Secondly, again it is amazing how well these bikes respond to aftermarket carbs and exhausts ,the stock carb is so lean and the stock pipe has a cat built in and is ultra restrictive that replacing them really wakes the bike up even more so than years past.
Some people do run a 14t front sprocket in order to add a little extra low end grunt for stunting but this will have a negative impact on top end speed if that is a concern,I run my stock 15t and I'm fine.
YouTube has plenty of Grom clone wheelie vids using stock motor ,with carbs and pipes only .,Amari drummer has a near bone stock Vader here :



Maybe one day i will actually use my GoPro 3 and make a video of me on mine, i figure since the battery has been in the charger for about six months since i bought the GoPro used off Ebay its prolly ready to use lmao.

Dude I can't agree with you more RedCrowRides on how these bikes pick up on performance and smoothness with shifting and acceleration/decceleration after break-in!!! Mine is still not totally broken in but I can already feel it shifting and finding Neutral easier, plus it seems to have a little more and definitley smoother power that makes it almost a completely different bike Versus when I first got it off the delivery truck a few weeks ago. Mine Has about 80 miles on the clock and I think at between 60-75 miles I took it for a ride one day and noticed it had some more mid-range power and was feeling smoother on shifts and I was like NICE!!

I still have a ways to go on break-in, maybe another 100 miles before the first manufacturer reccomended oil change (which is supposed to be at 300KM = about 180Miles if I read their Chinglish correctly!) So I am hoping to unlock a little more power!!! My engine break-in I have done so far almost exactly to the manufacturer's specs of keeping it at 30MPH or below and varying the engine rpm by not letting it idle for longer than it takes to warm up and going up and down thru the gears and even if I leave it in 4th gear i try not to hold the throttle steady for more than 1 minute at a time tops but usually it's more like 30 seconds is a looong time for me to hold the throttle/rpm steady--I'm sure you can hold your RPM steady for a lot longer than I am and still be fine but IT IS RECCOMENEDED to "vary your engine rpm during break-in". I feel like my engine break-in and following the bike maker's guidelines is going very well so far since I have already noticed a marked perceiveable increase in power and smoothness.
Also I know there are countless different opinions on break-in procedure, mostly the main debate is whether to ride the bike hard--"like you stole it" during break-in which some people say gets you slightly more performance----OR ride it to the manufacturer's reccomendations the first 500 miles and keep it at 50KMH(50kmh=31MPH) or below during that time and change the oil before your first ride and then every 180 miles for at least the first 3 changes then you can lengthen the intervals to something like every couple thousand miles after your engine is broken in(I dont have the book in front of me to quote the BOOM manufacturer reccomended oil change intervals after break-in right now). My thoughts on this are follow the bike maker's guidelines if you want to make your bike to be as reliable as possible for as long as possible because EVERY SINGLE major Japanese CHinese and German motorcycle manufacturer reccomends the same thing for the first 500-couple thousand miles which is to not go above about 50-60% of the bike's RPM--counting the redline as 100% so if the Vader for example redlines at 8300RPM, then don't take it above about 4000-5000RPM during break-in (I also don't have the exact manufacturer reccomendation for break-in length for the BOOM VADER in front of me but I THINK it's something like 600-1600miles) A good question is WHY DO ALL THE BIG BIKE MAKERS RECCOMEND VERY SIMILAR, NEARLY IDENTICAL BREAK_IN PROCEDURES? The answer is simply they warranty their bikes and don't want customers coming back in the first thousand miles with a broken bike that runs wonky because the rider wrung it's neck every single ride from brand new --which FOR EXAMPLE can cause the brand new valves/valve seats/springs/shim to not seat properly in it/s seat at the head, which lets improper amounts of air by that valve and ruins the bike's starting,idling and performance characteristics---AND THEN the bike maker would have to dig into their pockets and pay to fix all these bikes that were abused which causes the bike maker to lose money and therefore profits blah blah blah. The big 4 Japanese companies use very good materials and have very tight clearances and very low tolerances so although that does make their bikes run better and be high performance and all that, it also means if there is a very tight valve clearance for the bike to perform so well--if the valve doesn't seat right and messes with the valve spring which causes the valve to be in the wrong place entireley against where it was designed to be even a slight distance could mean hitting the piston and scoring the piston, bending the valve and the whole valve assembly--heck maybe even throwing the rocker arms and camshaft out of whack in an extreme case--then you need a new valve/valve stem/valve spring/rocker arm/cam shaft and maybe a new timing chain or timing chain tensioner or maybe just fix the timing by adjusting it...
Anyways to get back from my rant of what might be an extreme case, the fact of the matter is the bike maker says take it easy the first 500-1500 miles (give or take depending on your specific bike) so that all the new surfaces can seat and mate and polish each other properly. If one of these moving parts that is very close to another part is going to hit something and cause a problem, then it is most likely to happen when the bike is brand new, when the surfaces havent mated, and polished each other to the very tiny and exact measurements that ARE VERY SLIGHTLY different on each diffeent VIN number of the same exact bike. When the bike is new and you ride it thermal expansion happens and the parts aren't worn at all so the parts are as close to each other as they ever will be (until something fails/breaks/warps and ends up where it shouldnt be) and that's why to take it easy on a new bike during break-in.

SO these companies don't want you to break your bike, because then they have to pay to fix it under warranty, which is why they have break-in procedure--It is also important to note the bike maker says don't exceed (in the case of my 2018 BOOM GEN 1 VADER) 50KMh (OR 30MPH) during break-in and vary the RPM, BUT they also don't want you to crawl along at only 10MPH or less the entire time!! A Very SOFT break-in can also be bad for your bike, especially if you only ride it at 10MPH the first 1000 miles then immediately start riding it 100+MPH--the bike will maybe not be ready since the parts were not pushed hard enough to fully mate and polish each other during the VERY SOFT break-in and therefore things like thermal expansion might happen at such a large scale in this case after you start riding 100MPH that the moving parts MIGHT end up hitting each other and cause some sort of catastrophic failure!!

Another reason to take it reasonably slow during break-in is that if there is a defect or damage on part of your motorcycle like say a damaged but not broken wheel bearing or rear wheel hub if it's going to break (before it wears out an breaks 10,000 or 100,000 miles down the road or however long the part is SUPPOSED to last) then it's probably going ot break right away or soon after you start riding the brand new bike during the first few hundred or couple thousand miles--AND if it's something like a hub or wheel bearing that COULD cause your rear wheel to lock up, THEN it would be SOOOO MUCH BETTER if you are only going 30 Miles Per Hour and following the Manufacturer's Break-In Versus the "Ride It Like You Stole It" mantra going 100MPH.

Anyways, sorry to rant--I agree with the wise RedCrowRides, as usual, in the fact that these bikes get a lot better starting a good ways into your engine break-in and they continue to perform better and smoother until the engine is fully broken in.
I hope the break-in helps with your WHEELIES!!! Ride Safe and have fun!!!

One last thing to note is the stock Vader is very, very similar to both the SSR Razkull and in some ways the Honda Grom--both in looks, parts, and even performance. Heck the SSR Razkull even shares the same PZ20 carb with the Boom Vader, for at least some years, the ONLY difference with the carb being is that the SSR dealer is more likely than the online Boom Vader dealer to properly jet your carb and do other PDI stuff like change out the shipping oil for you, setup the chain to the correct slack, make sure the chain tensioner and wheel alignment is good, etc. SO..IF you do these adjustments to your Vader yourself and maybe even get a new carb/jets/intake/exhaust and pull up to a bone stock Razkull or Grom, then don't be surprised if you can keep up with the more expensive bikes or even pass them!!!

[ChopperCharles]

My SSR Buccaneer 250i has a top speed of 88mph with a smaller (80 profile) rear tire This is equivalent to 2 more teeth on the rear sprocket. Top speed was attained on a cool night, downhill, in a tuck. Speedo is off 6.15%, so that's 82.5 mph actual.

It cruises mid to upper 70s easily on the highway with this setup.

Also note I'm 250 lbs, so a lighter rider will have an even better experience with this bike.

Charles.

[sirmaxwell]

Originally Posted by ChopperCharles

My SSR Buccaneer 250i has a top speed of 88mph with a smaller (80 profile) rear tire This is equivalent to 2 more teeth on the rear sprocket. Top speed was attained on a cool night, downhill, in a tuck. Speedo is off 6.15%, so that's 82.5 mph actual.

It cruises mid to upper 70s easily on the highway with this setup.

Also note I'm 250 lbs, so a lighter rider will have an even better experience with this bike.

Charles.

I like the Bucaneer and I wanted to get it but I also didnt want to dip into my fairly modest savings that much. That's a nice bike and a good top speed. I;m not sure I want to go too fast on a motorcycle although the more experience I have the better I'm able to shift and control it and the faster I'm willing to try going--at least on flat straights!

On a side note I just got back to Connecticut from visiting Daytona Beach Florida and the roads there are so much nicer, smoother and without potholes, and there are mostly long straight strips everywhere that I feel like it's an entirely different game for how fast I would want to ride my motorcycle a lot of the time down there vs up here. I think I would feel fine hitting 90 mph around town when there isnt traffic in Florida whereas in CT many many towns I wouldnt like to go much past 60 although Im sure there are a good amount of spots in CT I could hit the same speeds and feel very comfortable my point is those spots are everywhere in FL and there are even reflectors all over the roads to help see the lanes on a dark night. I found it very easy to abuse my rental car, when I was in a hurry and there wasn't traffic blocking me I was continuosly racing it to speeds I would have trouble comfortably, safely and easily maintaining for as long on many of the winding bumpy town roads and even the winding highways in CT where I live--On my way to the airport I had a 52 mile--90 minute drive to Orlando International Airport and I was just pushing it from 60-90 on mostly 2-3 lane each direction town roads and I flew up on a county sheriff when I was doing 90 in a 45 or 50mph zone but very luckily I noticed he was a cop just as I was 50-100 feet away and about to fly past him!! oops..so I hit the brakes and the cruise control and lost a lot of time I had made up previously but in the end even getting stuck in some of the only hard rain I saw all week and stuck in slow traffic half the drive plus another 7 miles driving at the speed limit with the cop and a 10 minute gas n pit stop and some more lights and medium traffic the last dozen miles near the airport I still made it the 52 miles in 90 minutes.It was really awesome down there with high temps ranging from about 80-90 degrees with awesome breezes all day and overnight lows from the mid 60s to mid 70's..I visited the Daytona International Speedway today, where they have car and motorcycle races with 30-31 degree banks on much of the tri-oval track.I wasn't one to watch races before, although I like anything with an engine and i like and respect speed, but now i would love to take an RV and a pitbike into the middle of the Daytona race track and tailgate while watching the cars or bikes fly by!.There is a lot of fun stuff to do in Daytona and Florida in general and as long as your a/c in your car and house is working well, then it's good times in my book. I wish I had a motorcycle to ride while I was down there--next time I will! I'm seriously considering moving there

[RedCrowRides]

Orlando and Tampa both have huge Grom scenes, Youtubers Dankwheelie and Photogromer are very involved with the Grom stunt scene in Tampa , while Blockhead out of Orlando has a Harley and Grom related channel on Youtube .Jacksonville hosts " Grom Day" sponsored by TST Industries as well that is a HUGE event each year and they also have a very active Grom crew in JAX.


If you love Groms and Grom clones, check their channels out on YouTube ,especially Photogromers .Florida has great riding weather and we are lucky to have some very good motovloggers as well on YouTube representing us . Fooligan is another Grom content channel , based out of the midwest as is Attention Deficit with great stuff.

[cbrfxr67]

So far my pr is 63 according to speedo,...

[ChopperCharles]

The Buccaneer feels much looser and more powerful at 2500 miles than it did when I first bought it. Dunno if it's all the way broken in now, but it feels that way. I'm a happy man.

Charles.