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Old 03-24-2020, 03:18 PM   #106
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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I have a very old Harbor Freight Mig welder that still works great. Too bad they don't sell that model anymore. It was made in Italy and not China. lol

I think this header pipe would work but would still have to add length to the pipe. I haven't given up hope on finding the right one but when i do i'll be sure to post it.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000...1-c255ea19b9d4
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Last edited by JerryHawk250; 03-24-2020 at 03:54 PM.
 
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Old 03-24-2020, 03:37 PM   #107
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisguga View Post
Yeah, I might take it to a muffler shop. I’m sure that would be a very easy job for them, or for slightly more money I could just buy a decent Harbor a Freight welder and teach myself.

I bought their cheap flux wire welder, but after playing with it, I have very little faith in its ability to create an effective weld.
If you decide to buy another flux core welder just make sure it is DC. AC isn't worth a darn for flux core welding. There are Youtube videos on how to convert the cheap AC one to DC. Don't use the cheap Harbor Freight wire either. It's only for single pass and not multiple passes. The GS designation is for single pass and -11 is for multi pass. Makes a big difference.
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Old 03-24-2020, 04:20 PM   #108
Chrisguga   Chrisguga is offline
 
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Gotcha, I’ll look into converting mine to DC and if it works, I’ll buy some -11 rated wire.


 
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Old 03-24-2020, 05:10 PM   #109
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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I'm temped to try if i can find one cheap enough to experiment with. The exhaust for the Pre-2016 Honda CBR150R might be a close match. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000...archweb201603_
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Old 03-24-2020, 09:16 PM   #110
Chrisguga   Chrisguga is offline
 
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So for tonight’s work on the bike... I readjusted the clutch lever. I adjusted it out to where it was releasing right at the end of its travel. No good. Now it’s back to the factory spec.

I bought new handgrips because I slightly tore one of them during installation and now my left sided grip is free spinning. I broke some sort of mechanism in there. I’ll take the bar end off and see if I can figure it out and if not, I’ll try to drill a small hole in the bottom of the grip and drive a small stainless screw up in there to hold it in place.

I also rechecked the valves because they seemed noisier than I thought they should. The intake was perfect, but the exhaust was really loose. I don’t think it came loose, but rather I did a poor job adjusting them the first time. I have it right at 0.005 now.

Finally, I switched to the 100 jet and was able to increase my top speed from 67 on the gps to 71 by pulling to 8500 rpm rather than 8000. It still started to show signs of stumbling and running rich and just wouldn’t pull more rpm than that. Maybe I have a weak motor that did well with the 98 factory jet. I made small screwdriver indentions in the lateral parts of the jet head when I first removed it, but I guess I’ll try to reinstall it and see what happens.

I also adjusted the idle mixture screw and I’m very happy with my idle now. It settles in very nicely at 1500 and is nice and snappy off idle.

Thoughts on the jetting and the free spinning left handlebar grip?


 
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Old 03-24-2020, 09:49 PM   #111
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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I don't know what elevation you are at. With the cat still in the 98 may be good. Once you open up the exhaust and intake you will need to up the main jet. The more mile you get the better it will run. The smaller rear sprocket is going to make big difference.
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Old 03-24-2020, 09:53 PM   #112
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I’m in Thomasville, GA which is just 279’ elevation.

The problem with the smaller sprocket, is that I don’t have the power to pull redline with the deeper geared sprocket. The taller gearing will require more power to pul redline. I’m going to sort out getting this thing to 10k rpm before I change the sprocket as I already have trouble maintaining speed up small hills.


 
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Old 03-24-2020, 09:59 PM   #113
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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I'm a flat lander. What's a hill? Lol The rpm's will get up as it breaks in. Mine was the same way. I though I was hitting the rev limiter at 8000 then one day after a long ride I decided to push it and she reved right up there. I installed the smaller sprocket the first weekend I had it.
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Last edited by JerryHawk250; 03-25-2020 at 09:54 AM.
 
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Old 03-25-2020, 07:58 AM   #114
franque   franque is offline
 
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Make sure that you have a minimum of 1/8 freeplay at the clutch lever, otherwise it'll start to slip when the clutch warms up. For the grip, did you put grip glue on it when you reinstalled it?


 
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Old 03-25-2020, 08:12 AM   #115
Chrisguga   Chrisguga is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by franque View Post
Make sure that you have a minimum of 1/8 freeplay at the clutch lever, otherwise it'll start to slip when the clutch warms up. For the grip, did you put grip glue on it when you reinstalled it?
Yes, it has at least that much free play now.

Grip glue? I didn’t. I had to use dishwashing liquid and water to get the things on.

It’s not the additional grip that’s free spinning. The entire factory grip is now spinning round and round the handlebar. Any suggestions on fixing that?


 
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Old 03-25-2020, 08:51 AM   #116
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisguga View Post
Yes, it has at least that much free play now.

Grip glue? I didn’t. I had to use dishwashing liquid and water to get the things on.

It’s not the additional grip that’s free spinning. The entire factory grip is now spinning round and round the handlebar. Any suggestions on fixing that?
I've never had that happen on any bike but have heard about it happening before. Yes there is such a thing as grip glue. People in motocross use it because you're literally carrying the bike around by it grips. All that twisting will eventually loosen the grips. As far as your free spinning. Check to make sure your grip hasn't split or cracked.
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Old 03-25-2020, 10:04 AM   #117
franque   franque is offline
 
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I'm not sure what could've cracked on the left side, unless you're saying like the switches are free spinning. Don't ever use soap to get a grip on, and yes, you should use grip glue. You can use hairspray to get a grip on, because that'll dry, or if you have a compressor, you can use a blower to get the grip on. I'd take the whole grip off and clean off the soap.


 
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Old 03-25-2020, 09:42 PM   #118
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Hairspray works amazingly well. Not only does it dry, but it is also tacky. I have never had a grip come off using hair spray.

I have used grip glues, but had weird luck with them. They also have a pretty long set time, at least 24 hours, and even then I have had a grip not set before.
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Old 03-26-2020, 01:02 AM   #119
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryHawk250 View Post
I have a very old Harbor Freight Mig welder that still works great. Too bad they don't sell that model anymore. It was made in Italy and not China. lol
That’s the spiffy Cebora welder they used to sell. I learned to weld with one of those and built my first trailer with it. I also upgraded it by adding a cooling fan and a larger ground wire with heavy duty ground clamp. The welds were marginally better, but the duty cycle was greatly improved.
Back to your regularly scheduled program.
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Old 03-26-2020, 08:01 PM   #120
Chrisguga   Chrisguga is offline
 
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Just ordered this air filter to attach directly to the carb. I chose this one because it’ll be here in 3 days and the ones half as expensive take a month to arrive.

K&N Vent Air Filter/ Breather: High Performance, Premium, Washable, Replacement Engine Filter: Flange Diameter: 1.75 In, Filter Height: 2.5 In, Flange Length: 0.625 In, Shape: Breather, 62-1470 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00062YJPY/


 
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