About had it with these chinese bikes

[TominMO]

Originally Posted by Dustoff42

So I took the spark plug out and it was way to small of a gap. I made it bigger and I had a new plug come in today. The gap difference helped the idle a little. But damn that things fucking glows still and gives off enough heat to cook a steak after a minute of idling. The engine reads 300 easily. Exhaust Does smell kind of weird tho I noticed. It could be the exhaust valve. . I learned about valves a bit now and looked some things up. Going to attempt this. But the thing is. I can’t seem to figure out this engine. It says 165fmm-p on it. But I can’t seem to find much or any info on it. I know a lot of them changed the names of the engines of something. But everyone who seems to have this kind of engine has a 5 gear. This is 6 and fuel injected. I have no idea what kind of gasket this thing uses. Would fee more confident if I knew the actual engine name. Here are some pics to maybe help? Any info would really be helpful. I can’t find shit https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...8MKAqrvK7AwRaH

Yeah, it's pretty common knowledge here that the cheaper Chinese bikes come with a Chinese plug, and it needs to be changed out immediately. Same with valve clearances. It doesn't matter what the engine is, just get the exhaust valve gap wider. Say .06 - .10 mm. Yours is probably set at something like .02 mm.

There are two Top Dead Centers BTW, and only one TDC is useful for setting the valves, the one that has both rocker arms loose. AKA the compression stroke. On some engines it is hard to get to that one, because as you rotate the motor at the flywheel, it will lurch forward on its own and pass the TDC you want. The solution is to not use a ratchet wrench, instead use a breaker bar in order to have control of the engine spinning.

You can also use a normal box wrench of the right size as a breaker bar, if you have the adapters below to insert into your socket. Any hardware store should have them. A lot cheaper than a breaker bar, if you don't have one of those. Here is the exact same product, far cheaper at HF.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...aps-67011.html

https://www.amazon.com/Square-Drive-...ps%2C99&sr=8-2

[Dustoff42]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

Wow! That exhaust is really hot. That's not normal. How many RPM's is it idling at? Should only be around 1500 - 1600 RPM's. A high idle will heat the exhaust up pretty quick.

Exactly 1600rpm like it says it should in the little book that came with it. It’s killing me. I have to get into those valves

[Dustoff42]

Originally Posted by TominMO

Yeah, it's pretty common knowledge here that the cheaper Chinese bikes come with a Chinese plug, and it needs to be changed out immediately. Same with valve clearances. It doesn't matter what the engine is, just get the exhaust valve gap wider. Say .06 - .10 mm. Yours is probably set at something like .02 mm.

There are two Top Dead Centers BTW, and only one TDC is useful for setting the valves, the one that has both rocker arms loose. AKA the compression stroke. On some engines it is hard to get to that one, because as you rotate the motor at the flywheel, it will lurch forward on its own and pass the TDC you want. The solution is to not use a ratchet wrench, instead use a breaker bar in order to have control of the engine spinning.

You can also use a normal box wrench of the right size as a breaker bar, if you have the adapters below to insert into your socket. Any hardware store should have them. A lot cheaper than a breaker bar, if you don't have one of those. Here is the exact same product, far cheaper at HF.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...aps-67011.html

https://www.amazon.com/Square-Drive-...ps%2C99&sr=8-2

Damn thanks for the info. More stuff to look up ha. Always going to HF. I saw people who would take the two little tops off the head and adjust that way. Then I see others who take the whole head off and then do it that way. Second is easier access to valves but more work I guess.

[TominMO]

Originally Posted by Dustoff42

Damn thanks for the info. More stuff to look up ha. Always going to HF. I saw people who would take the two little tops off the head and adjust that way. Then I see others who take the whole head off and then do it that way. Second is easier access to valves but more work I guess.

Depends on how your motor 's head is set up. My X-pect had the whole top come off (OHV motor) while the KPX has the two individual inspection ports (OHC motor).

[JerryHawk250]

I'm pretty sure he has the OHC. Only remove the two caps.

[Dustoff42]

So I tried adjusting the valves and hanged the spark plug and it was no use for the heat coming from that engine and header. I think the techs I was dealing with at the beginning have not had much experience with this bike or with this kind of problem. Venom has started making this right and it turns out this bike has more problems than should be the norm. They have been really helpful now that they have seen more of what is happening with the bike and that its not just the normal heat coming off the engine. They really came through now and are helping me get this all straightened out. Big thanks to JerryHark250, helping me get some more help and advice. Thanks to everyone who has helped and given advice. Looks like it is time for a different bike.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Dustoff42

So I tried adjusting the valves and hanged the spark plug and it was no use for the heat coming from that engine and header. I think the techs I was dealing with at the beginning have not had much experience with this bike or with this kind of problem. Venom has started making this right and it turns out this bike has more problems than should be the norm. They have been really helpful now that they have seen more of what is happening with the bike and that its not just the normal heat coming off the engine. They really came through now and are helping me get this all straightened out. Big thanks to JerryHark250, helping me get some more help and advice. Thanks to everyone who has helped and given advice. Looks like it is time for a different bike.

Glad they are helping you get it straighten out. BTW Who is the JerryHark250 guy you speaking of???? Always here to help a fellow biker.

[TominMO]

Dunno about that Hark guy. Sounds sketchy. OP, recommend you do the exact opposite of whatever he suggests.

[JFOlivier]

On post #21 it appears that you are trying to adjust the valves with the engine hot. As far as I know these valves are to be adjusted with the engine cold.

[TominMO]

Yeah OP, just in case you don't know, you should let the motor sit overnight before adjusting the valves.

[Dustoff42]

Originally Posted by JFOlivier

On post #21 it appears that you are trying to adjust the valves with the engine hot. As far as I know these valves are to be adjusted with the engine cold.

Oh ya I waited overnight before doing them. Just always end up recording at the same time at night haha

[Dustoff42]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

Glad they are helping you get it straighten out. BTW Who is the JerryHark250 guy you speaking of???? Always here to help a fellow biker.

Whoops lol. That’s what I get always typing on my phone instead on an actual keyboard.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Dustoff42

Whoops lol. That’s what I get always typing on my phone instead on an actual keyboard.

I always have to go back and reread everything i type. Auto correct has a mind of its own.