Coffee filter-recycle break in oil.

[GypsyR]

Last tech sheet I looked at said Rotella T4 had like 1200 ppm of zinc. Which is OK but with an oil change coming up for my Templar I just picked up a quart of Mobil Racing 4T (motorcycle oil) for twelve bucks. At Wal-Mart. Has 1300 ppm of zinc in it. The 20w-50 version has 1750 ppm. Which I use in another bike. No additive needed for either for sure and both are designed specifically for motorcycles and their wet clutches. Although meant for diesel engines (says so on the bottle) T4 happens to have the same type additive that our wet clutches need so using it isn't wrong. Different ways to roll.

I do what I do because I've spent the best part of my 60 years repairing damage on vehicles. Often caused by poor maintenance. I've seen over and over what a lack of care does to motor vehicles and machinery and I decided I wanted to do better than that for mine like 40 years ago. The money for some of the best quality oil you can buy when you only need one quart is no big deal. Now if I had one of those monster RV's rocking like a Cummins 400 ISL that holds seven GALLONS of oil I might have to walk back that high dollar engine oil. I suppose if I could afford such a thing and the fuel for it I ought to be able to afford good oil but still, almost 200 bucks for an oil change must sting a bit.

[JAH]

New member, first post!
I am getting back to riding after a 35 yr break. I'm looking at a Lifan KPX 250. Regarding engine oil, is there any significant difference between 'motorcycle oil' and 'automotive oil?' Also, what weight oil would you all suggest?

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by JAH

New member, first post!
I am getting back to riding after a 35 yr break. I'm looking at a Lifan KPX 250. Regarding engine oil, is there any significant difference between 'motorcycle oil' and 'automotive oil?' Also, what weight oil would you all suggest?

Yes, most motorcycle oils are designed for wet clutch. Automotive oil can can contain friction modifiers which are not good for the clutch.

[ProDigit]

Motorcycle oils are more expensive.
For the first few oil changes during the break-in, using 10W40 car oil is ok.
It's cheaper, and the clutch won't slip, but might at some point (after x-amount of miles).
For my Roketa MC 05 127, not until 1200 miles, with frequent WOT rides, did the clutch finally start slipping.

If it does, it's better to revert back to motorcycle oil.
Should solve itself after 1 or 2 oil changes.

[GypsyR]

If you like Valvoline brand oil and shopping at Wal-Mart you can buy a quart of conventional Valvoline oil for a car for $4.84 or a quart of actual motorcycle (conventional) Valvoline oil for exactly 1.53 more. Not a difference that hurts MY wallet. Just some prices I saw.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by ProDigit

Motorcycle oils are more expensive.
For the first few oil changes during the break-in, using 10W40 car oil is ok.
It's cheaper, and the clutch won't slip, but might at some point (after x-amount of miles).
For my Roketa MC 05 127, not until 1200 miles, with frequent WOT rides, did the clutch finally start slipping.

If it does, it's better to revert back to motorcycle oil.
Should solve itself after 1 or 2 oil changes.

And this is why you should use oil designed for wet clutch. It's only slightly higher than automotive oil.