Templar X 250

[Aussie_in_MO]

MCO = MSO different term for the same thing. Manufacturer's Statement of Origin.

[Thumper]

You can't remove the panel that covers the tailpipe without removing the luggage rack. EASY FIX

Once you remove the 8mm bolt that holds the seat on, you can't remove the right side cover because the front luggage rack mount goes through it. So cut it!

Here are the before and after pics. The bolt that holds the seat on holds this cover in place anyway, so this doesn't do anything except allow you to pull off the side cover (second 8mm bolt lower/forward) WITHOUT removing the luggage rack.

Note: the decal protection hasn't been removed yet, so you can see that unpeeled near the cut.

Before cut




After cut

[Aussie_in_MO]

Yup, did that mod to my side panels a while ago.
Left them alone when I first assembled because I wanted to pull the rear rack and loctite the bolts in place.
Makes a world of difference instead of fighting with the rack. Also made getting the seat on and off easier since there's less pressure on the seat bolts

[Mumen Rider]

You know what's weird? The tag "X7-CB250F" identifies our bikes on the handlebar but when you go to Alibaba and look at that exactly model being sold by Wuyi Zuma the frame is different at the engine cradle. It almost appears as if the Templar X has a frame that would fit the ZS174MN engine.


The Templar X engine is stamped "ZS172FMM-3A" but it is clearly a "ZS172FMM-5" because of the balance shaft.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by Mumen Rider

You know what's weird? The tag "X7-CB250F" identifies our bikes on the handlebar but when you go to Alibaba and look at that exactly model being sold by Wuyi Zuma the frame is different at the engine cradle. It almost appears as if the Templar X has a frame that would fit the ZS174MN engine.
The Templar X engine is stamped "ZS172FMM-3A" but it is clearly a "ZS172FMM-5" because of the balance shaft.

We rejet the slow/pilot 40 to 42, but I don't have a 125 main (ordered). Also drilled the airscrew and set to 1.5 turns initial setting and shimmed the needle ~1mm. We will see how badly WOT is affected by leaving the 120 main jet in there. But not for at least a few hundred miles break-in.

The frame is redesigned somewhere between my 2022 and this 2024 frame. There are lots of differences like the clutch adjuster, and clutch cable routing in front of the cylinder, the starter relay mounts, the engine mounts (top and front look very different). There is even less room to get in to adjust the intake valve. The tail light wiring is zip tied to the left lower luggage rack mount (good) but the connectors need to be wrapped and then ziptied back.

And I noticed the glaring 172FMM-3A stamp as well. Now this is puzzling. This "3A" stamp was on the early 6 speed engine I bought, then sold. I thought they were just using up left side -3A case halves, but they still mark these -3A . Isn't it a "-5" ???

I don't understand the way parts are freely cloned and crossmatched on Chinese products. It must be confusing for engineers and assemblers!

And yes, I do wonder how difficult it would be to put a liquid jacketed 298cc engine in there and mount radiators to the air louvre positions

[Mumen Rider]

Originally Posted by Thumper

The tail light wiring is zip tied to the left lower luggage rack mount (good) but the connectors need to be wrapped and then ziptied back.

They've wired it the exact same way as the Storm 150 DLX that I have.

Originally Posted by Thumper

And I noticed the glaring 172FMM-3A stamp as well. Now this is puzzling. This "3A" stamp was on the early 6 speed engine I bought, then sold. I thought they were just using up left side -3A case halves, but they still mark these -3A . Isn't it a "-5" ???

I don't understand the way parts are freely cloned and crossmatched on Chinese products. It must be confusing for engineers and assemblers!

I wonder if it's to get around import or emissions restrictions? That's the only thing I can think of.

Originally Posted by Thumper

And yes, I do wonder how difficult it would be to put a liquid jacketed 298cc engine in there and mount radiators to the air louvre positions

I have a CB300RL that's on it's way to me to swap into the Templar, looking back I should have gotten a water cooled engine but then again I made the order before the bike showed up and I know that the 300RL is a direct swap. Maybe after I sell my ZRX1200R and the GSX1100G I have sitting in the garage I will get a water cooled bike off of Alibaba instead of paying the crazy Kayo/GPX prices.

[Dusman]

Re: the Kayo/GPX prices, the GPX TSE250R and FSE250e and s models are about the only ones that are affordable anymore. Once you start looking at their 300cc models and up (both 2 and 4 stroke), you might as well just go ahead and buy a big 4 Japanese bike brand new. I’ve heard GPX owners say, “But dude, it’s half the price of an equivalent KTM….” and my response is, “But yeah, it’s pretty much the same price as a YZ125x, a DRZ400, or a DR650s…and most people will have to make payments on that kind of $ regardless, so why not just go with a Big 4 Japanese bike?"

[Mumen Rider]

FYI the spacing on the plastic radiator mounts is 130mm. So far I haven't found any radiators on Alibaba or Aliexpress that would directly bolt on but plenty of generic radiators that you could make work. Throwing this information out there because I plan on swapping a water-cooled engine into it a year from now. In July I should have my Zs175fmm(CB300RL) to swap in before that.

[Thumper]

Can anyone remind me where is the posts or thread describing how to disable the need to pull the brake (or foot pedal) to start the Templars?

I know someone mentioned it, but I can't find it.

[K'hermiit]

Originally Posted by Thumper

Can anyone remind me where is the posts or thread describing how to disable the need to pull the brake (or foot pedal) to start the Templars?

I know someone mentioned it, but I can't find it.

Here is the way I did it. My first post here.
https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=33546

[ProDigit]

It's very common to either pull the brake, or the clutch to start the bike.
The Vader 150, can start without it, which sucks when you're in 1st gear, and forget to pull any.
It even turns over (though doesn't get spark) with the ignition switch set to 'off'.

[Okierider]

Hey silly question-
I’ve lost the service manual for my 172fmm-3a and can’t remember the oil viscosity it called for.
I changed the oil and used some generic Rotella 15w-something and it shifts like garbage. Need to change it again before I ride it.

[ProDigit]

Originally Posted by Okierider

Hey silly question-
I’ve lost the service manual for my 172fmm-3a and can’t remember the oil viscosity it called for.
I changed the oil and used some generic Rotella 15w-something and it shifts like garbage. Need to change it again before I ride it.

Most of these bikes need 10W40. If you are running an open exhaust and intake, and the bike is properly jetted (not lean), 10W30 might work as well, especially if you equip it with an oil cooler.

If you do, it'd be good to put 2x 12v pc case fans on the back side of the cooler, always on when the bike is running. That way it'll cool quickly after a highway run.
Side benefit, the fans also generate power to charge the battery, when going at highway speeds, as they'll rotate faster than they normally would at 12V.
If you wire the pc case fans in series, each gets 6V, and will run pretty quiet.
Will have enough flow to cool the bike at idle.
In parallel they'll run quite loud at ilde (like a desktop pc with fans at full blast), but you won't hear much of it when riding.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by Okierider

Hey silly question-
I’ve lost the service manual for my 172fmm-3a and can’t remember the oil viscosity it called for.
I changed the oil and used some generic Rotella 15w-something and it shifts like garbage. Need to change it again before I ride it.

15W-40 10W-40 is OK too.

I use Shell Rotella T4 15W-40

Shifts smoothly, and it's compatible with the clutch. If it "shifts like garbage" with this oil, it will probably shift like garbage with another brand/viscosity. Maybe your clutch needs adjustment. Believe me, I am NOT the only one that uses this oil.

Others choose a motorcycle specific oil (for the clutch).

Many CG250 owners use T4. Templar 172FMM as well. 1 to 1.1 quart

[Aussie_in_MO]

Originally Posted by Thumper

15W-40 10W-40 is OK too.

I use Shell Rotella T4 15W-40

Shifts smoothly, and it's compatible with the clutch. If it "shifts like garbage" with this oil, it will shift like garbage with another brand/viscosity. Maybe your clutch needs adjustment. Believe me, I am NOT the only one that uses this oil.

Others choose a motorcycle specific oil (for the clutch).

Many CG250 owners use it. Templar 172FMM as well. 1 to 1.1 quart

Can confirm, ran Rotella T4 in my last 4 bikes without issue. Including my '07 Warrior 1700. Currently running cheaper oil in my Templar X until I hit 500mi and then I'm switching it over to T4