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Old 02-13-2011, 10:42 PM   #166
Jim   Jim is offline
 
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Got a bit of work done today...

I was working on straightening out the swing arm so everything lined up for the axle housing, it was a little frustrating I would get one thing straightened and lined up and it would throw something else off. I got it straitened out somewhat, but my brother took a stab at it, and seems to have gotten it lined up pretty well I cut a few spacers (using the band saw) out of the tubing Weldangrind left for me, to fill the space on the brake side between the swing arm and housing, as pointed out by Weldangrind in his axle topic. Gave it another shot of paint (along with the housing) since it was getting scratched up while bending and so on.

While that was drying I moved on to other tasks. I put my jets in the carb (my 110, and my 22.5 loaner from W&G), and switched over the choke spring and cable holder from the old carb. I put in my new throttle cable, and mounted the carb to the beast.


One of the bolts to hold the carb to the manifold hits on a piece of the carb while trying to put it in, I couldn't get it past it, so I ground off the edge of the bolt.... It was hitting where I highlighted it in red in the picture, is there a trick to getting that in without grinding it?


I mounted my performance CDI I got from Weldangrind as well. I cut a chunk of old rubber mudflap to fit, and stuck it to the back of the cdi with double sticky tape. Then I cut another piece and ground it down in a few places to go around some of the welds and bumps in the mounting location. I stuck the cdi to the beast with two good zip ties. I stuck it under the front tank mount, there is a flat tube there, where it attaches the tank mount to the frame.


I needed to mount it with the wires coming out towards the motor, because if they point forward it hits the steering tube. The thing to watch out for is the dip in the tank and the barb on the fuel tank. The cdi needs to be flush with the back of the tube I stuck it too, and offset to the right side of the atv. It is offset to the right because the wires come out the back of the cdi in the center, and the tank barb is slightly to the left, this gives everything just enough clearance (Clarance).


The rubber piece under the tank between it and the frame was worn on the rear of the tank so I cut one out of a chunk of mudflap again. Works good.


I got the rear end almost back on but have run into a snag. The thread at the end of the swing arm bolt is messed up and I don't have a tap to fit it, I may also have the wrong nut for it. I got the chain back on, I removed and reinstalled the chain by pulling it over the tire when the swing arm was loose. Once I get the swing arm bolt sorted out I'm going to put the rear brake and shock back on.

I also ran my new fuel line from the carb to the filter, and the filter to the new gas shutoff valve. From there to the tank. It's coming along.
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Old 02-13-2011, 11:04 PM   #167
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Roger, Roger.

You made some good progress tonight. I don't recall the bolt interfering with the intake tube; perhaps the bolt I have is different. A socket head cap screw might be the ticket, although you could likely grind away a little of the intake tube material.

I now know where I'm gonna mount my CDI.

I'll check the pitch and diameter on my swingarm and see if I have a die for it, along with a spare nut. It's helpful to double nut the swingarm anyway.

Did you cut the mudflap out with a hole saw? It looks factory.
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Old 02-13-2011, 11:22 PM   #168
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I cut it with the bandsaw, then rounded it off with the bench grinder, you should see my t-shirt I had to put in a phillips head screw in the back tank mount, because the bolt that was in there was hitting the top of the engine.

If you'd like I can cut you some similar pieces of mudflap to fit the cdi smoothly under there.

Thanks on the swingarm bolt, I was considering going and picking up a lock nut at Alder one of the next days after figuring out the size and dealing with the thread. I believe it was a 12 but a 1.25 or something, I don't remember for sure, but I didn't have the right thread.

Oops, I forgot to post the picture of the other side of the cdi, where the wire comes out, I edited the other post to include it now. You can see the cdi wire and tank barb.
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Old 02-13-2011, 11:27 PM   #169
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I just checked, and it is indeed 12x1.25. I don't have that die in any of my kits, but I might stop in at Abbotsford Tool and pick one up.
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Old 02-13-2011, 11:34 PM   #170
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Thank you for checking that for me. I don't want to make you buy tools, maybe I should go buy some :wink:
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Old 02-13-2011, 11:39 PM   #171
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A very productive day for you, Jim. Thanks for sharing your work with us. You will have so much satisfaction riding your creation. I think that's one of the reasond I love The Dirt Rat so much. I sorta created it.
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Old 02-13-2011, 11:44 PM   #172
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Your dirt rat is very cool Doc I'm looking forward to getting out on the beast, it's weird though, I think the thing I want to do most is drag stuff around with the tow hook

$4.99 from Fastenal's online store, http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...0323408&ucst=t I'll see what the local stores want for them.
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Old 02-19-2011, 05:26 AM   #173
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Here's the fuel filter, fuel line and fuel shut off valve I got. I attached them with zip ties.



A close up of the bumper with the undercoating applied.


Weldangrind was at Saga and picked up a new clutch lever and perch that matched his beast, and I've got it installed

I also picked up my 25 jet today and maxima foam filter treatment. I installed the jet, and made a sticky blue mess with the filter oil.

I decided now was a good time (before new oil, and gas) to carve up the skid plate.


I found the 2 holes already cut in the plate that didn't line up with anything.


And then I ran into a dilemma. I don't think this thing has a drain plug. Not that it's missing the bolt, it's missing the hole. It does have the side one with the screen but not the one on the bottom, at least I couldn't find it, something which I had no problem with on either of the Lifans. I believe it is supposed to be on that flat round spot?


I made a nice ugly hole with the angle grinder under the spring spot because I figured it's going to be messy out of there.


I got the oil changed. Installed the rear roll bar/tail light, and front bumper. I also repainted the exhaust.



Then I hooked up the battery and took it for a spin.



I couldn't get the rear body panel on because the battery tray hits the air filter, and it seems to be quite snug on the coil. I'm guessing Weldangrind has pointers on this. The front hubs will be red later too, but the front end still needs a lot of work, I just wanted it in running shape first. I also need to go find some new screws for the heat shields on the exhaust.
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Old 02-19-2011, 08:56 AM   #174
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Looking good.

Its so much fun taking a project for a ride after doing so much work on it.


 
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Old 02-19-2011, 04:59 PM   #175
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Actually.... on my beast the oil drains perfectly thru one of those two holes, no cutting needed.


 
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Old 02-19-2011, 08:04 PM   #176
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I think it just depends on how careful they line them up before welding the plate on. Mine didn't really line up. It would have been messy.
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Old 02-19-2011, 11:34 PM   #177
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Great job, Jim. You've done really good work on tis project. Congratulations on your progress!
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Old 02-21-2011, 01:52 AM   #178
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Team Cheap, that is true about getting to go ride around on it, maybe next time it will even have a seat

Doc, thanks ps. please find me a picture you like and I will resize it for you to use as an avatar
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Old 02-21-2011, 06:15 AM   #179
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Lucky for me the blaster seat just clicks right in.


 
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Old 02-21-2011, 12:01 PM   #180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim
Team Cheap, that is true about getting to go ride around on it, maybe next time it will even have a seat

Doc, thanks ps. please find me a picture you like and I will resize it for you to use as an avatar
Thanks. I'll find something today when I get a chance!
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