2021 Xpro Titan DLX

[OrangeTitan]

Hey guys bought the titan a week ago, and the clutch doesn’t seem to be engaging. The clutch lever has no resistance and every time I pull the clutch in and put it in gear the bike jumps forward and stalls. I have cracked open the clutch case, removed and soaked the friction plates in oil then reassembled but still the same result. Yes, I have tried to adjust the cable to no anvil. I’m at a loss, any help would be appreciated.

[tknj99]

Well guys, it was fun but i've moved on to the Templar X and just sold the Titan locally. Happy with the sale @ $1500. So for the $650 differential i got into the new bike.. i'll be working on that new thread as i get to know and mod the bike.

[richpiano]

Does anyone have any advice for my carb setup? I am having some issues ever since changing the jetting on my VM26 that was linked here.
I have tried everything from 100-120 jets without much avail. Is everyone running a 110-120 jet on the Amazon VM26? as soon as I go past 1/4-1/2 throttle it will bog and die. It was running fine on the stock unmarked jet but only on CHOKE that appeared to be about the size of a #100 jet to my untrained eye. It also is having a pretty lumpy idle but I may need to continue working on the idle screw. I am worried about the stock air box too as it seems like the opening is not a completely perfect fit to the VM26. I am thinking I may get a 45mm pod filter and try that

Current state:
- orange box CDI w/ NGK plug
- removed emissions stuff
- stock airbox and filter
- stock VM26 pilot jet
- valves adjusted and in spec

I do not have the catalytic converter removed as I'm not sure I want to invest in a new exhaust if I haven't even been able to properly get everything sorted without it.

Today I tried a 120 and it bogged worse. I think I have a #105 in it now and tried moving the needle one spot richer (2nd to lowest). Should I try going back to the original CDI? The spark plug gap may be out of spec but I'm not sure that would cause bogging at 1/2 throttle.

[severely]

Originally Posted by richpiano

Does anyone have any advice for my carb setup? I am having some issues ever since changing the jetting on my VM26 that was linked here.
I have tried everything from 100-120 jets without much avail. Is everyone running a 110-120 jet on the Amazon VM26? as soon as I go past 1/4-1/2 throttle it will bog and die. It was running fine on the stock unmarked jet but only on CHOKE that appeared to be about the size of a #100 jet to my untrained eye. It also is having a pretty lumpy idle but I may need to continue working on the idle screw. I am worried about the stock air box too as it seems like the opening is not a completely perfect fit to the VM26. I am thinking I may get a 45mm pod filter and try that

Current state:
- orange box CDI w/ NGK plug
- removed emissions stuff
- stock airbox and filter
- stock VM26 pilot jet
- valves adjusted and in spec

I do not have the catalytic converter removed as I'm not sure I want to invest in a new exhaust if I haven't even been able to properly get everything sorted without it.

Today I tried a 120 and it bogged worse. I think I have a #105 in it now and tried moving the needle one spot richer (2nd to lowest). Should I try going back to the original CDI? The spark plug gap may be out of spec but I'm not sure that would cause bogging at 1/2 throttle.

Gosh, you've done almost everything I have done to mine and it runs great. A couple questions though. Did you plug the line coming off the intake manifold after removal of emissions stuff? Why not remove the cat in the headpipe? I cut mine lengthwise with a grinder and cut 1" crossways and peeled back the side and removed the cat, then brazed back together. It sure sounds like an air leak to me with bogging but you may want to double check the pilot jet for blockage, Good luck, keep us updated.

[richpiano]

Originally Posted by severely

Gosh, you've done almost everything I have done to mine and it runs great. A couple questions though. Did you plug the line coming off the intake manifold after removal of emissions stuff? Why not remove the cat in the headpipe? I cut mine lengthwise with a grinder and cut 1" crossways and peeled back the side and removed the cat, then brazed back together. It sure sounds like an air leak to me with bogging but you may want to double check the pilot jet for blockage, Good luck, keep us updated.

that's a great point about the cap. I bought a rubber cap and fitted it over that. What about the block off plate for the emissions port on the head? I just used a cut piece of metal. Maybe it's not sealed well and a gasket maker or sealant would work to seal it better?? Do you have any recommendations regarding that? The auto parts guy said water weld by jb weld was the way to go but I've never heard of that being used as a gasket.

I probably could get someone to remove the cat! I just live smack in the city in a small apartment without access to power tools and don't know how to weld. Spending $200 on a nicer looking pipe without a cat is something I'd maybe do in the future, but I'm trying to keep it budget until I decide if it's even for me.

Mainly this bike is for getting a start with offroading because I am not sure I can handle my 600+ lb adv bike on the local trails. If it performs well and is reliable it will probably become my urban commuter too.

[severely]

Originally Posted by richpiano

that's a great point about the cap. I bought a rubber cap and fitted it over that. What about the block off plate for the emissions port on the head? I just used a cut piece of metal. Maybe it's not sealed well and a gasket maker or sealant would work to seal it better?? Do you have any recommendations regarding that? The auto parts guy said water weld by jb weld was the way to go but I've never heard of that being used as a gasket.

I probably could get someone to remove the cat! I just live smack in the city in a small apartment without access to power tools and don't know how to weld. Spending $200 on a nicer looking pipe without a cat is something I'd maybe do in the future, but I'm trying to keep it budget until I decide if it's even for me.

Mainly this bike is for getting a start with offroading because I am not sure I can handle my 600+ lb adv bike on the local trails. If it performs well and is reliable it will probably become my urban commuter too.

I placed rubber caps over both the intake manifold and the head port and secured caps with a small zip tye. A small welding shop might help with the cat removal for a few bucks and let them keep the cat material as it has some value. It's better than $200 for a new headpipe. Is the carb bolted squarely on the manifold, I've seen them tightened down not flush and leak air. Good luck.

[richpiano]

Originally Posted by severely

I placed rubber caps over both the intake manifold and the head port and secured caps with a small zip tye. A small welding shop might help with the cat removal for a few bucks and let them keep the cat material as it has some value. It's better than $200 for a new headpipe. Is the carb bolted squarely on the manifold, I've seen them tightened down not flush and leak air. Good luck.

Today, I sprayed carb cleaner over my block off plate, carb and intake, including the rubber plug. No increase in idle anywhere. Now it's idling only with the choke on unless the idle screw is turned so high that it's above 2k rpms. My current main jet is a 105. My idle jet is whatever came in the VM26 clone. Could that be the culprit at least somewhat? Maybe my orange CDI box is bad?

[severely]

When you have the clutch cable removed is there a point in the movement of the clutch arm where you feel clutch spring pressure?

[OrangeTitan]

The only tension is coming from a spring on the clutch arm itself. There isn’t any from the actual clutch assembly.

[severely]

Originally Posted by OrangeTitan

The only tension is coming from a spring on the clutch arm itself. There isn’t any from the actual clutch assembly.

I'm guessing a part is missing. There are parts that come into contact with the clutch arm when it's moved on the clutch basket itself that depress/disengage the clutch. I don't have a parts diagram handy. Can anyone help out here?

[OrangeTitan]

I am familiar with the part you are referring to. It sits on a bearing. That part isn’t missing. Either the arm isn’t connecting with it (I don’t think that’s it) or for some reason that part isn’t depressing (my rolling theory). Is it possible to depress that with your hand to check if it actually depresses or is it to strong to do with your hand?

[severely]

Originally Posted by OrangeTitan

I am familiar with the part you are referring to. It sits on a bearing. That part isn’t missing. Either the arm isn’t connecting with it (I don’t think that’s it) or for some reason that part isn’t depressing (my rolling theory). Is it possible to depress that with your hand to check if it actually depresses or is it to strong to do with your hand?

No, not possible with your hand. You should be able to move the clutch arm with a pair a channel lock pliers. Maybe the clutch arm isn't properly mounted on the splined shaft? There should be a point where contact is made when splined shaft is rotated to engage the clutch moving in the direction of cable mount, then mount the clutch arm where the cable starts to engage the clutch upon pulling the lever. I'm hoping you should be able to adjust free play and full clutch dis-engagement then. Good luck.

[Shelby347ci]

Hey all I'm new to this forum I never posted before but have used alot of info from everyone on her bout my xpro 250 dlx I recently was riding in yard and went over bump and after I noticed speedo wasn't reading anymore I was wondering if there's supposed to be magnet on the front rotor if so it fell off that's prob y it doesn't work was wondering if anyone on her knows about speedo sensor thanks.

[severely]

Originally Posted by Shelby347ci

Hey all I'm new to this forum I never posted before but have used alot of info from everyone on her bout my xpro 250 dlx I recently was riding in yard and went over bump and after I noticed speedo wasn't reading anymore I was wondering if there's supposed to be magnet on the front rotor if so it fell off that's prob y it doesn't work was wondering if anyone on her knows about speedo sensor thanks.

See my previous post.

[OrangeTitan]

Hey Serverely, just wanted to say thanks for the advise. Turns out the clutch was bad (not sure how). When I slapped a new clutch in the bike it magically worked. Rode it for 100 miles already (after swapping carbs, jets, cdi box, coil, plug, deleting the egr and adjusting the vavles). I love this bike.