I ordered a new Hensim 250 street bike - Page 13

TheRealWorld · 08-28-2010, 04:52 PM

Thanks for the tip, I will check it out. Any idea where I might get a new module if I need one?

TheRealWorld · 01-22-2011, 11:10 PM

My life has been very busy, but when spring comes I will need a new CDI, anyone got a good idea where I can get one? Hope you guys are all well! Just to remind you, mine is a Hensim 250 2 cylinder, same as the Bali

VinceDrake · 01-23-2011, 07:45 PM

I haven't been around here a whole pile, but I just just run into this thread, and I had very, very similar issues with an Old Honda Cb500 Twin back in the day.

--Impossible to find neutral with engine running
--Poor shift quality/missed shifts
--Heavy and dragging clutch.

I jerked around with it for about a year, and eventually, I found out that the steel clutch plates had warped slightly. Effectively making the act like springs. i.e. when the clutch was engaged, they would squash flat and work nicely, but when release, they would expand, causing the clutch to drag somewhat, and no matter how much release action I would try to get out of the grip, the would just expand more.

Only other thing I've run into on old Yamaha Rd's, the friction material would break up off the friction plates, and get caught in between the disks of the clutchc, causing dragging, and erratic clutch engagement, etc.

Regardless, you might have a whole 'nother problem, but it seemed too much like what I experienced, not to post. Maybe worth another look in there, and take the clutch plates out and lay them individually on a plate of glass, and see if they "rock" or sit weird...

--Vince

TheRealWorld · 01-23-2011, 08:39 PM

I think you are on to something, and I may take tht clutch apart and play with it. I really appreciate your input and taking the time to explain it. I live in Wisconsin, so I may not get to it real soon. I will post when I make some progress.

VinceDrake · 02-02-2011, 05:56 PM

Yeah, here in Southern Saskatchewan, it's not exactly prime riding season either...

Thinking about it further, after I posted-- Whenever I would change the oil on the old 500T, it would always come out significantly black and nasty, or at least blacker than I would have like for 2000kms, after changing out the clutch it always changed (relatively) clean. The plates themselves were black and yucky looking, and the highspots could be seem distinctly on the steel plates. (Clean spots on a black plate)

Diagnostically, it would start out not to bad, or a cool engine, and drag worse progressively as the engine warmed up. Especially after a long troll through the city, it would be infuriating trying to get a decent shift out of it. Neutral was not an option, with the engine running.

Sorry for posting randomly, but it has been a long time since the old 500 and the rd's so I been kinda remembering over the last couple of weeks what it would act like...

Just as a final thought-- The reason for running "Non-energy conserving" or motorcycle oil in bikes, is because of the zinc content. Zinc is a heat and pressure attracted lubricant. Therefore, it stays in the clutch plates and makes the clutch slip when under load. Hence, 10w40, or other "motorcycle oils"

Logically, you should be able to fill the engine with a 5w30, or even a 5w30 synthetic normal service oil, and the symptoms you are experiencing should lessen somewhat, due to the zinc easing the dragging action of the clutch. It would be kind of "fuzzy diagnostics" but it would help pin-point things, short of actually going into the clutch housing.

Either way, I just thought I would throw it out there, while I was thinking of it. I vaguely remember a buddy having similar issues a few years ago with his wife's Rebel...

--Vince

TheRealWorld · 02-02-2011, 06:38 PM

Your description fits my bike perfectly. Thanks for the time and info.

culcune · 02-21-2011, 01:48 AM

Try Hensim:

Hensim USA Headquarters:
5270 Edison Ave
Chino, CA 91710
USA
Phone: (909) 548-0051
Fax: (909) 548-0055
Email: info@hensimusa.com

TheRealWorld · 07-24-2011, 11:34 PM

I was told on this thread that I could get a CDI from Mo and I talked to him and ordered one and put it in and have the same issue as the last one I bought for 25 percent of the price. The original works, but cuts out a bit when it gets hot outside, so I now have the new one in, it fits, but only fires on one cylinder just like the last replacement I bought. I think they are sending me one for a 250 single cylinder and mine is a two cylinder. Any one got a clue what I can do.

Oengus · 07-26-2011, 11:09 PM

Your engine is a 253FMM
Your model is a HS250A.5

http://www.scrappydogscooters.com/25...0_Twin_4T.html

That site has your CDI and also clutch plates.

TheRealWorld · 07-27-2011, 12:11 AM

That is the place and exact part I ordered it, and it only fires on one cylinder. I got a replacement CDI a while back and had the same issue. When I put the original back in it runs fine. The reason I want to replace it is because it starts cutting out on a day above 90 degrees. If it did not run fine with the old one, I would assume other issues, but it runs great on the old one, but only fires on one cylinder with the two replacements I have tried.

I assume that the CDIs I am getting are for a single cylinder 250. I did get an email from Mo, and he feels his part is good, but how can it be if it runs fine on the original?

Thanks for the help!

Oengus · 07-27-2011, 11:21 AM

I see that now on the other threadâ€¦.Unfortunately people will sell you crap if you do not know better, they believe that makes them a better business person.

Google translate of the Chinese forum does not translate very good to English, its difficult to understand.
What I got from HB's post was that the DC CDI improved the performance of the bike, but they needed to change the bulbs on the bike, but the thread is not clear why?

The DC CDI does it require other modifications to the electrical? It may not it may have a built in rectifier or maybe it does not matter, maybe only the bulbs had to be changed?

Buying one of the two CDI choices AC or DC off Taoboa is a matter of using an English interpreter site that is set up to buy it for you. Taobao Focus is one and they can quote you the price including shipping and also translate question you have for the seller.

TheRealWorld · 07-27-2011, 01:57 PM

Thanks for the info, and the help. This is a bit complicated, and now I have destroyed the original CDI by pulling the connection plug out of the CDI by not being careful when I removed it the last time. So I will be walking for a while.

katoranger · 07-27-2011, 02:00 PM

Is your bike an AC or DC igntion system?

TheRealWorld · 07-27-2011, 02:54 PM

Good to hear from you! I hate to tell you, but I don't know.

katoranger · 07-27-2011, 03:13 PM

Okay. The boxes can be either and have the same plug connectors on them.

This may help.

http://www.scrappydogscooters.com/Te..._with_Mo_.html

The CDI on my honda elite is a DC fired one. It needs a good battery to work and is not powered by the AC stator.

Most or the common China bikes have been AC fired, but since your bike is more of a honda street clone I am thinking it may be a DC type.

The plug with two wires should be the kill (black/white wire) and the power (red/black wire). If you put your meter on the red wire with the switch on and have 12-13volts DC you probably have a DC ignition. If you have nothing then switch your meter to VAC and check while cranking the engine over or with is running. You should get 75-100VAC.

I am not sure if the CDI box differs from a 1-2cyl. I think that function is on the flywheel/pickup maybe. Not sure there.

The gy6 scooter has alittle bump on the flywheel that works with the trigger coil.

01-23-2011, 07:45 PM	#183
VinceDrake Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Southern Saskatchewan Posts: 491	I haven't been around here a whole pile, but I just just run into this thread, and I had very, very similar issues with an Old Honda Cb500 Twin back in the day. --Impossible to find neutral with engine running --Poor shift quality/missed shifts --Heavy and dragging clutch. I jerked around with it for about a year, and eventually, I found out that the steel clutch plates had warped slightly. Effectively making the act like springs. i.e. when the clutch was engaged, they would squash flat and work nicely, but when release, they would expand, causing the clutch to drag somewhat, and no matter how much release action I would try to get out of the grip, the would just expand more. Only other thing I've run into on old Yamaha Rd's, the friction material would break up off the friction plates, and get caught in between the disks of the clutchc, causing dragging, and erratic clutch engagement, etc. Regardless, you might have a whole 'nother problem, but it seemed too much like what I experienced, not to post. Maybe worth another look in there, and take the clutch plates out and lay them individually on a plate of glass, and see if they "rock" or sit weird... --Vince __________________ "Sometimes it is better to say nothing, and let people think you're an idiot, than to open your mouth and prove it."
	0

02-02-2011, 05:56 PM	#185
VinceDrake Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Southern Saskatchewan Posts: 491	Yeah, here in Southern Saskatchewan, it's not exactly prime riding season either... Thinking about it further, after I posted-- Whenever I would change the oil on the old 500T, it would always come out significantly black and nasty, or at least blacker than I would have like for 2000kms, after changing out the clutch it always changed (relatively) clean. The plates themselves were black and yucky looking, and the highspots could be seem distinctly on the steel plates. (Clean spots on a black plate) Diagnostically, it would start out not to bad, or a cool engine, and drag worse progressively as the engine warmed up. Especially after a long troll through the city, it would be infuriating trying to get a decent shift out of it. Neutral was not an option, with the engine running. Sorry for posting randomly, but it has been a long time since the old 500 and the rd's so I been kinda remembering over the last couple of weeks what it would act like... Just as a final thought-- The reason for running "Non-energy conserving" or motorcycle oil in bikes, is because of the zinc content. Zinc is a heat and pressure attracted lubricant. Therefore, it stays in the clutch plates and makes the clutch slip when under load. Hence, 10w40, or other "motorcycle oils" Logically, you should be able to fill the engine with a 5w30, or even a 5w30 synthetic normal service oil, and the symptoms you are experiencing should lessen somewhat, due to the zinc easing the dragging action of the clutch. It would be kind of "fuzzy diagnostics" but it would help pin-point things, short of actually going into the clutch housing. Either way, I just thought I would throw it out there, while I was thinking of it. I vaguely remember a buddy having similar issues a few years ago with his wife's Rebel... --Vince __________________ "Sometimes it is better to say nothing, and let people think you're an idiot, than to open your mouth and prove it."
	0

08-28-2010, 04:52 PM	#181
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	Thanks for the tip, I will check it out. Any idea where I might get a new module if I need one?
	0

01-22-2011, 11:10 PM	#182
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	My life has been very busy, but when spring comes I will need a new CDI, anyone got a good idea where I can get one? Hope you guys are all well! Just to remind you, mine is a Hensim 250 2 cylinder, same as the Bali
	0

01-23-2011, 08:39 PM	#184
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	I think you are on to something, and I may take tht clutch apart and play with it. I really appreciate your input and taking the time to explain it. I live in Wisconsin, so I may not get to it real soon. I will post when I make some progress.
	0

02-02-2011, 06:38 PM	#186
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	Your description fits my bike perfectly. Thanks for the time and info.
	0

02-21-2011, 01:48 AM	#187
culcune Join Date: May 2006 Location: Yuma, Arizona Posts: 9,035	Try Hensim: Hensim USA Headquarters: 5270 Edison Ave Chino, CA 91710 USA Phone: (909) 548-0051 Fax: (909) 548-0055 Email: info@hensimusa.com
	0

07-24-2011, 11:34 PM	#188
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	I was told on this thread that I could get a CDI from Mo and I talked to him and ordered one and put it in and have the same issue as the last one I bought for 25 percent of the price. The original works, but cuts out a bit when it gets hot outside, so I now have the new one in, it fits, but only fires on one cylinder just like the last replacement I bought. I think they are sending me one for a 250 single cylinder and mine is a two cylinder. Any one got a clue what I can do.
	0

07-26-2011, 11:09 PM	#189
Oengus Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 826	Your engine is a 253FMM Your model is a HS250A.5 http://www.scrappydogscooters.com/25...0_Twin_4T.html That site has your CDI and also clutch plates.
	0

07-27-2011, 12:11 AM	#190
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	That is the place and exact part I ordered it, and it only fires on one cylinder. I got a replacement CDI a while back and had the same issue. When I put the original back in it runs fine. The reason I want to replace it is because it starts cutting out on a day above 90 degrees. If it did not run fine with the old one, I would assume other issues, but it runs great on the old one, but only fires on one cylinder with the two replacements I have tried. I assume that the CDIs I am getting are for a single cylinder 250. I did get an email from Mo, and he feels his part is good, but how can it be if it runs fine on the original? Thanks for the help!
	0

07-27-2011, 11:21 AM	#191
Oengus Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 826	I see that now on the other threadâ€¦.Unfortunately people will sell you crap if you do not know better, they believe that makes them a better business person. Google translate of the Chinese forum does not translate very good to English, its difficult to understand. What I got from HB's post was that the DC CDI improved the performance of the bike, but they needed to change the bulbs on the bike, but the thread is not clear why? The DC CDI does it require other modifications to the electrical? It may not it may have a built in rectifier or maybe it does not matter, maybe only the bulbs had to be changed? Buying one of the two CDI choices AC or DC off Taoboa is a matter of using an English interpreter site that is set up to buy it for you. Taobao Focus is one and they can quote you the price including shipping and also translate question you have for the seller.
	0

07-27-2011, 01:57 PM	#192
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	Thanks for the info, and the help. This is a bit complicated, and now I have destroyed the original CDI by pulling the connection plug out of the CDI by not being careful when I removed it the last time. So I will be walking for a while.
	0

07-27-2011, 02:00 PM	#193
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	Is your bike an AC or DC igntion system?
	0

07-27-2011, 02:54 PM	#194
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	Good to hear from you! I hate to tell you, but I don't know.
	0

07-27-2011, 03:13 PM	#195
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	Okay. The boxes can be either and have the same plug connectors on them. This may help. http://www.scrappydogscooters.com/Te..._with_Mo_.html The CDI on my honda elite is a DC fired one. It needs a good battery to work and is not powered by the AC stator. Most or the common China bikes have been AC fired, but since your bike is more of a honda street clone I am thinking it may be a DC type. The plug with two wires should be the kill (black/white wire) and the power (red/black wire). If you put your meter on the red wire with the switch on and have 12-13volts DC you probably have a DC ignition. If you have nothing then switch your meter to VAC and check while cranking the engine over or with is running. You should get 75-100VAC. I am not sure if the CDI box differs from a 1-2cyl. I think that function is on the flywheel/pickup maybe. Not sure there. The gy6 scooter has alittle bump on the flywheel that works with the trigger coil.
	0