I ordered a new Hensim 250 street bike - Page 15

katoranger · 07-19-2012, 09:18 AM

I have confirmed pine sol works to clean really dirty carbs. The wheel horse carb was saved.

Most likely you just need to clean the bowl and the jets out. Easiest to remove the carb and then take it apart on the bench.

I like to use a cookie sheet with a shop rag on it. The sheet keeps the little parts from disappearing.

Carb cleaner, small piece of wire from your wire brush to clean the jets. Your old toothbrush.

TheRealWorld · 07-19-2012, 09:50 AM

OK great answers, and I will give it a try. Thanks, and by the way, I sent my old Mazda truck to the junk yard crusher!

TheRealWorld · 07-21-2012, 11:33 PM

Wow, I spent a part of the day pulling off the carb and cleaning it. I had one jet orifice plugged! It was small and I could not get air through it, I had to carefully force a small piece of wire through it. Got it back together and on the bike. The bike starts and runs good, with one exception, it does not seem to have the low rpm power I thing it should have. It could be me, but it seems noticeable. I am thrilled that with help on this site, it is running and usable.

Weldangrind · 07-23-2012, 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by katoranger

I have confirmed pine sol works to clean really dirty carbs.

Do you use the Pine Sol full strength? Do you allow it to soak?

TheRealWorld · 07-23-2012, 01:13 PM

Yes, and fill me in on how I should use it. Or anything better? I am a fairly mechanical guy, so I am just stunned that I found a plugged jet, I have clean gas, and what I thought was a good filter! I found my bike also asked for 91 octane, I have been using 87, any thoughts?

Weldangrind · 07-23-2012, 01:28 PM

If it's a little hard to start on 91 octane, then switch to 87. I normally use aerosol carb cleaner from Walmart and a toothbrush, but I'm willing to try pine Sol.

TheRealWorld · 07-23-2012, 01:31 PM

The residue from Pine Sol concerns me a bit, I think that the Carb cleaner might be the way to go. Got to get to work, thanks for the help!

katoranger · 07-24-2012, 10:15 AM

I told a friend and he tried it with the wheel horse carb. I think he mixed it one part pine sol to three parts water. Used walmart brand too.

I think a spray with carb cleaner after being in the pine sol might be a good idea.

fonzerelli · 11-29-2012, 10:28 AM

therealworld

I may have found the real issue with the clutches and shifting on these. (At least on mine)

After taking off the clutch cover and examining parts the piece which disengages the clutch on mine was all chewed up on the small end where the the arm which moves it rotates. The clutch arm or whatever it's called that the cable connects to on mine was very sharp and hardened steel and every use of the clutch made it eat away at the softer part. You could see lines where it was chewing it up and in no time it could have become too short to release the clutch fully.

Now I have to try honda parts when I get them ordered.

All that metal it was chewing up was also finding it's way into the shift drum area making shifting irregular.

I will let you know when I fix it if it works out but don't hold your breath. I've let this bike sit brand new and unused three years now and just finally opened it up.

66 miles on the clock total, still... Yet in just that low mileage that part was worn.

Looking back on it the clutch lever often didn't feel smooth, now I know why, because the moving parts mating surfaces weren't smooth. The edge on the rotating hardened steel arm where it rubs on the throwout arm is really really sharp even still. It seems to me like that part should have a rounded edge, considering the edge just cuts away at the other throwout arm part.

At any rate it seems like an easy fix in my case at least. (If honda parts fit)

Weldangrind · 11-29-2012, 10:32 AM

Thanks for that detail. Do you have any pics of what you found?

fonzerelli · 11-29-2012, 11:09 AM

Sorry I don't have pics atm, but this photo I found on ebay are the two parts I'm talking about. The long arm in this pic (the part the clutch cable attaches to) is sharp where it rotates against the middle sized piece in this pic, which i call the throwout plunger or arm.

The skinny end of the throwout plunger or arm or whatever it's called, is what is facing you in the pic. That end facing you, pointing straight at you in this pic on mine, is what is all chewed up, but the one in this picture (even though it's a used part picture from ebay ) is obviously smooth.

Mine is visibly defective just comparing it to the picture alone.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CB250-CB-250...82607f&vxp=mtr

TheRealWorld · 11-29-2012, 11:28 AM

Thanks for the input, I did look at that in the past, and I did not like what I saw, but did not feel at the time that I could improve it. I will wait with enthusiasm, to see how you do with your repair. Good luck, and thanks again!

fonzerelli · 11-29-2012, 06:10 PM

No problem, Good luck.

btw as long as I have you, how many miles have you got on yours now, and how is it doing aside from the clutch?

Since it's winter the soonest you'l hear back on my repair results will be summer. I'll try not to procrastinate another 3 years...

TheRealWorld · 11-29-2012, 08:29 PM

Three thousand miles, and no other problems except I have had to clean the carburetor, after I diagnosed the problem. That problem was, it would not run faster than low RPM.

One thing I had done was that I changed the sprocket so give me a little more speed, without maxing out the engine. I have thee bikes so I don't ride this one all the time.

fonzerelli · 11-30-2012, 03:51 AM

Ok thanks, I was trying to judge whether it would make more sense to fix and sell it or finally start using the thing.

Looking on craigslist the things don't seem to go for 1k no matter how low the mileage is, at least right now, so I guess maybe it's worth more to keep it? If it gives me 3k miles as long as I keep it together and well maintained I think I'd be fine with that.

Only problem is every other bike I see tempts me as well, and I don't really need this one I have more than one bike also and live where there's bad weather a lot of the year and limited garage space.

Man life is hard...

Obviously since I haven't touched it in all this time I could have done without it.

07-19-2012, 09:18 AM	#211
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	I have confirmed pine sol works to clean really dirty carbs. The wheel horse carb was saved. Most likely you just need to clean the bowl and the jets out. Easiest to remove the carb and then take it apart on the bench. I like to use a cookie sheet with a shop rag on it. The sheet keeps the little parts from disappearing. Carb cleaner, small piece of wire from your wire brush to clean the jets. Your old toothbrush. __________________ You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone.
	0

07-23-2012, 01:28 PM	#216
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	If it's a little hard to start on 91 octane, then switch to 87. I normally use aerosol carb cleaner from Walmart and a toothbrush, but I'm willing to try pine Sol. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

07-24-2012, 10:15 AM	#218
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	I told a friend and he tried it with the wheel horse carb. I think he mixed it one part pine sol to three parts water. Used walmart brand too. I think a spray with carb cleaner after being in the pine sol might be a good idea. __________________ You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone.
	0

11-29-2012, 10:32 AM	#220
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Thanks for that detail. Do you have any pics of what you found? __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

07-19-2012, 09:50 AM	#212
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	OK great answers, and I will give it a try. Thanks, and by the way, I sent my old Mazda truck to the junk yard crusher!
	0

07-21-2012, 11:33 PM	#213
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	Wow, I spent a part of the day pulling off the carb and cleaning it. I had one jet orifice plugged! It was small and I could not get air through it, I had to carefully force a small piece of wire through it. Got it back together and on the bike. The bike starts and runs good, with one exception, it does not seem to have the low rpm power I thing it should have. It could be me, but it seems noticeable. I am thrilled that with help on this site, it is running and usable.
	0

07-23-2012, 01:13 PM	#215
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	Yes, and fill me in on how I should use it. Or anything better? I am a fairly mechanical guy, so I am just stunned that I found a plugged jet, I have clean gas, and what I thought was a good filter! I found my bike also asked for 91 octane, I have been using 87, any thoughts?
	0

07-23-2012, 01:31 PM	#217
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	The residue from Pine Sol concerns me a bit, I think that the Carb cleaner might be the way to go. Got to get to work, thanks for the help!
	0

11-29-2012, 10:28 AM	#219
fonzerelli Join Date: Sep 2010 Posts: 16	therealworld I may have found the real issue with the clutches and shifting on these. (At least on mine) After taking off the clutch cover and examining parts the piece which disengages the clutch on mine was all chewed up on the small end where the the arm which moves it rotates. The clutch arm or whatever it's called that the cable connects to on mine was very sharp and hardened steel and every use of the clutch made it eat away at the softer part. You could see lines where it was chewing it up and in no time it could have become too short to release the clutch fully. Now I have to try honda parts when I get them ordered. All that metal it was chewing up was also finding it's way into the shift drum area making shifting irregular. I will let you know when I fix it if it works out but don't hold your breath. I've let this bike sit brand new and unused three years now and just finally opened it up. 66 miles on the clock total, still... Yet in just that low mileage that part was worn. Looking back on it the clutch lever often didn't feel smooth, now I know why, because the moving parts mating surfaces weren't smooth. The edge on the rotating hardened steel arm where it rubs on the throwout arm is really really sharp even still. It seems to me like that part should have a rounded edge, considering the edge just cuts away at the other throwout arm part. At any rate it seems like an easy fix in my case at least. (If honda parts fit)
	0

11-29-2012, 11:09 AM	#221
fonzerelli Join Date: Sep 2010 Posts: 16	Sorry I don't have pics atm, but this photo I found on ebay are the two parts I'm talking about. The long arm in this pic (the part the clutch cable attaches to) is sharp where it rotates against the middle sized piece in this pic, which i call the throwout plunger or arm. The skinny end of the throwout plunger or arm or whatever it's called, is what is facing you in the pic. That end facing you, pointing straight at you in this pic on mine, is what is all chewed up, but the one in this picture (even though it's a used part picture from ebay ) is obviously smooth. Mine is visibly defective just comparing it to the picture alone. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CB250-CB-250...82607f&vxp=mtr
	0

11-29-2012, 11:28 AM	#222
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	Thanks for the input, I did look at that in the past, and I did not like what I saw, but did not feel at the time that I could improve it. I will wait with enthusiasm, to see how you do with your repair. Good luck, and thanks again!
	0

11-29-2012, 06:10 PM	#223
fonzerelli Join Date: Sep 2010 Posts: 16	No problem, Good luck. btw as long as I have you, how many miles have you got on yours now, and how is it doing aside from the clutch? Since it's winter the soonest you'l hear back on my repair results will be summer. I'll try not to procrastinate another 3 years...
	0

11-29-2012, 08:29 PM	#224
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	Three thousand miles, and no other problems except I have had to clean the carburetor, after I diagnosed the problem. That problem was, it would not run faster than low RPM. One thing I had done was that I changed the sprocket so give me a little more speed, without maxing out the engine. I have thee bikes so I don't ride this one all the time.
	0

11-30-2012, 03:51 AM	#225
fonzerelli Join Date: Sep 2010 Posts: 16	Ok thanks, I was trying to judge whether it would make more sense to fix and sell it or finally start using the thing. Looking on craigslist the things don't seem to go for 1k no matter how low the mileage is, at least right now, so I guess maybe it's worth more to keep it? If it gives me 3k miles as long as I keep it together and well maintained I think I'd be fine with that. Only problem is every other bike I see tempts me as well, and I don't really need this one I have more than one bike also and live where there's bad weather a lot of the year and limited garage space. Man life is hard... Obviously since I haven't touched it in all this time I could have done without it.
	0