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Old 07-21-2015, 04:46 AM   #16
humanbeing   humanbeing is offline
 
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CDI's curve had minor difference btw CB & GY6. Generic one = Jack of all trades
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Stator. Just buy the right type w/ SAME pattern & size
For example: SAME 88mm series
Equilateral triangle (Honda CG) http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=43761780302 , isosceles triangle (Chonda CG) http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=15952108136, parallel http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=41921426167 (Chonda CB)
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RECTIFIER
Just buy the right type as the old one. full-wave / half wave...
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GY6 history http://chinariders.net/showpost.php?...47&postcount=6
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Old 07-21-2015, 11:08 AM   #17
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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I doubt there is a single common part between the GY6 and your engine.

Your bike is all Roketa; I have the same bike, right down to the forks. Somebody has painted the tank yellow (underneath the tank shroud). I removed and ditched the tank shroud and the fake cooling fins below the tank. I'm happy to just use the plastic tank. You can remove the yellow paint with a little brake fluid and a rag. Paint won't stick to a plastic fuel tank.

The ridiculously long fuel petcock can be swapped for a shorter version if you ditch the tank shroud and the trim below it. The long valve causes too much stress on the tank mount, and can make the nuts pop out, leaving you with nothing to mount the petcock. I recommend that you install a shorter valve.

You have a 200cc OHC engine, and it is a close cousin to the Honda XR200, although the frame of architecture is slightly larger on your engine, so very little crosses over. The frame is almost an exact match to an early '80's XR200 (not the R version), which was a twin shock bike. Your bike uses a mono shock, but the twin shock mounts are still there, holding the rack in place.

My bike was rusted beyond belief, so I used it for parts and built a Lifan that was in much better shape. The Roketa is in the very slow process of becoming a café racer.
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Old 07-21-2015, 12:33 PM   #18
rich_e   rich_e is offline
 
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Double check your connectors on your CDI. There are two types, square or rounded. The one you ordered shows the rounded connectors. Yours may or may not be the square type.

Here is an example of the square type: http://www.ebay.com/itm/GY6-CDI-BOX-...5ae4f0&vxp=mtr


 
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Old 07-25-2015, 12:22 AM   #19
sgjames   sgjames is offline
 
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I'll be back soon with more of an update, but so far:

The stator received, seems to be the wrong one, very similar looking.... I will find out in a day or two (when time is found again), as I still haven't had a chance to pull off the stator cover yet and actually compare side by side....

The rectifier seems to be an almost identical. size, design, testing, are all the same, to only difference is the order in which the wires come out of the rectifier body itself. since it tests the same as the old one, i now am the proud owner of a spare rectifier (good thing i have my hands in a few bikes and quads, i may find a home yet) if some one wants/needs it for what i paid, I can send it their way too...

The CDI has the correct, round, connectors that my existing one has. I did notice, and double check the connector styles before purchasing, and thanks for the reassurance, rich_e. I am youtubing for testing a CDI right now..... will post any good videos on my next post.

humanbeing, I'm not sure I know that much about such things- "CDI's curve difference", and the "right type" of stator meaning the Chonda CB? If i were on eBay for example, Chonda CB stator should get me the right results? (it doesn't) The sites you gave are nice, but are in (presumably) Chinese. Maybe I need a plugin to translate the page, i dont know...

And for rectifiers, full wave/ half wave, does that mean AC or DC? How do you really determine that, by the stator?

And Weldangrind, thanks for the four play, I'll make sure I get the maintenance done to my pet cock. And the frame being an XR200 or maybe 125 or 250 or something, does ring a bell. I'm almost certain the frame is not original (the Vin plate has bee re-riveted at some point, shhh... )

I've been a bit busy lately and have put the bike on temp hold, but I will be needing it soon anyway, and will follow up with more. Thanks again for everyone's help and input!


 
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Old 07-25-2015, 12:49 AM   #20
humanbeing   humanbeing is offline
 
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GY6 http://www.sanxin.com.cn/Exhibit/exhview.asp?pid=7 | CB http://www.sanxin.com.cn/Exhibit/exhview.asp?pid=9
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Half / Full ??? http://mastercircuits.blogspot.com/2...onversion.html
Just use the correct REG as stator's design
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Old 08-05-2015, 11:04 PM   #21
sgjames   sgjames is offline
 
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Sorry for the wait. Here are some comparisons between the existing, and new stators. I have a few detailed (with caliper measurements) as well as comparative photos. I'm only posting a hand full, and for more detailed pics, just goto my photobucket album to view them all.

This is a comparison of the pick ups. They have an overall design difference, but the bolt pattern and surfaces all have the same dimensions. The new one does NOT have a ground wire like the old one. I assume that it's internally grounded and uses the mounting as a ground point.



Here we have a side by side view. The newer , shinier, stator has a wider area on the 'spokes'. There is also (viewable by going to the photo album for the detailed pics) a difference in the spoke widths themselves. the Existing stator has all the same size spokes aside from the heavy insulated one. The new one has 5 spokes that are the same, a small one, a medium one (both smaller then the main 5) and a heavy insulated one that is larger then all.



Here is an overall view of both stators. The center hole ID's are identical, the mounting holes are identically spaced..... If the stator is for a G6, it looks like it fits in a Lifan anyway. I got not much to lose by throwing in the new componets, so I may be trying it..... same ammount of wires and all too....



time is fleeting, but I will continue to update as I get this sucker back in order. thanks again everyone!


 
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Old 08-05-2015, 11:46 PM   #22
humanbeing   humanbeing is offline
 
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The new one IS for GY6 series:

http://world.taobao.com/item/44717973352.htm
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the "CB"
http://world.taobao.com/item/44692077803.htm | http://world.taobao.com/item/39569031386.htm
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Old 07-16-2016, 07:28 PM   #23
sgjames   sgjames is offline
 
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So i tried using that Asian parts site, humanbeing, suggested. No luck. I just dont trust to buy something off that site since after installing a couple different translators with 3 types of browsers, I couldn't fully translate all the info I needed to know. And yes, this project is still in the works= it's funny how time is available when funds aren't, and funds are available when time isn't.... I found this site

https://www.lifanenginepartswholesal...c-398_272.html

looks like they got the part i need, and i just wanted to share the link. I will finish this damn project sooner of later.


 
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Old 07-17-2016, 01:55 PM   #24
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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I hope that works out for you. Please let us know the result.
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Old 06-20-2023, 06:52 AM   #25
sifix   sifix is offline
 
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lifan wiring

So here I am. in the same boat as alot of you. am hopefully at the stages of completion with my project. but the same. I put a multimeter on while the engine was running. not really much of a jump. I thought there would be more. but it hung in the 12s increasing slightly with revs.
So my question. which is actually the correct wire from the stator to charge the battery. and what sort of output should it be at. I would of thought round the 14v mark.?
from the engine I got Black. Pink Yellow. and 2 stripey ones that go off to the cdi.
the motor is the 163 fml
have a blast
si


 
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Old 06-20-2023, 10:18 AM   #26
Mudflap   Mudflap is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sifix View Post
So here I am. in the same boat as alot of you. am hopefully at the stages of completion with my project. but the same. I put a multimeter on while the engine was running. not really much of a jump. I thought there would be more. but it hung in the 12s increasing slightly with revs.
So my question. which is actually the correct wire from the stator to charge the battery. and what sort of output should it be at. I would of thought round the 14v mark.?
from the engine I got Black. Pink Yellow. and 2 stripey ones that go off to the cdi.
the motor is the 163 fml
have a blast
si
https://www.chinariders.net/picture....pictureid=1114


Do you have a rectifier/regulator installed?


 
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