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Old 04-12-2020, 04:09 PM   #16
Goob   Goob is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2019
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CSC plug gap

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alollo Dean View Post
The choke and gas were in they're correct positions. What's strange is it idles fine until it warms up. I did put the NGK plug in it but I'm not sure of what the gap should be.
CSC says plug gap of: "The gap should be 0.028inch or 0.711mm when the plug is new..."

Also, you really should check out the maintenance manual for the TT250. Most of this stuff applies to all of these Chinese 250's. You will be able to tell what doesn't. It is better than the "nothing" that is supplied by most sellers.

https://www.cscmotorcycles.com/fckim...e%20Manual.pdf
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Old 04-12-2020, 04:15 PM   #17
Alollo Dean   Alollo Dean is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goob View Post
I agree on checking the valves. It isn't hard to do. Here is the CSC tutorial:

https://www.cscmotorcycles.com/check...lve-adjustment

I don't think it is any different for any CG engine bike. They recommend "looser" gaps than most on this site do, at .07mm for both. I only had a .06mm and .08mm, so I set at .06 and made sure a .08 didn't fit. I set, rotated 2 times, checked (had to reset exhaust), rotated 2 times, checked (had to reset intake), rotated 2 times...then it was OK.

Unlike the tutorial, I didn't take off my seat or gas tank. I only removed the right side plastic. My tank plastics are already off, so someone who has them might have to remove the right side only. For the TT250, the valve cover comes off easily to the right side.
Thank you, sir


 
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Old 04-12-2020, 05:55 PM   #18
Alollo Dean   Alollo Dean is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuffaloChinaRider View Post
Did you do valves ? I know I keep mentioning but on my old bike, I didn't do valves and had the exact same issues. Maybe its not that but you should troubleshoot down a list so that you can cross things off one by one. Next you can make sure that your air box isn't blocked up...but I'd do that after I first do the valves. Its kind of a pain to get to on the apollo but it has to be done. Have to take gas tank off:/ also your air/fuel mixture can be lean..but again its all going down a list of trouble shooting!
Hi again, I have a buddy on his way to check the valves and in the tutorial for the 250 it says the case cover is removed by 3 Phillips head screws that doesn't appear to be the same as the apollo it looks like several 8mm bolts is that correct?


 
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Old 04-12-2020, 06:02 PM   #19
Alollo Dean   Alollo Dean is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuffaloChinaRider View Post
Did you do valves ? I know I keep mentioning but on my old bike, I didn't do valves and had the exact same issues. Maybe its not that but you should troubleshoot down a list so that you can cross things off one by one. Next you can make sure that your air box isn't blocked up...but I'd do that after I first do the valves. Its kind of a pain to get to on the apollo but it has to be done. Have to take gas tank off:/ also your air/fuel mixture can be lean..but again its all going down a list of trouble shooting!
In the tutorial for the tt it says the left case can be removed with 3 Phillips head screws that doesn't appear to be the case on the apollo, can you advice me on this? I have a friend on his way to check out the valves. Thanks


 
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Old 04-12-2020, 06:36 PM   #20
BuffaloChinaRider   BuffaloChinaRider is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alollo Dean View Post
In the tutorial for the tt it says the left case can be removed with 3 Phillips head screws that doesn't appear to be the case on the apollo, can you advice me on this? I have a friend on his way to check out the valves. Thanks
Its different on apollo. Its two hex shaped bolts/caps that are on the top of the engine when you remove those caps, the valves will be exposed for adjustments
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Old 04-12-2020, 09:39 PM   #21
Alollo Dean   Alollo Dean is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goob View Post
I agree on checking the valves. It isn't hard to do. Here is the CSC tutorial:

https://www.cscmotorcycles.com/check...lve-adjustment

I don't think it is any different for any CG engine bike. They recommend "looser" gaps than most on this site do, at .07mm for both. I only had a .06mm and .08mm, so I set at .06 and made sure a .08 didn't fit. I set, rotated 2 times, checked (had to reset exhaust), rotated 2 times, checked (had to reset intake), rotated 2 times...then it was OK.

Unlike the tutorial, I didn't take off my seat or gas tank. I only removed the right side plastic. My tank plastics are already off, so someone who has them might have to remove the right side only. For the TT250, the valve cover comes off easily to the right side.

Just a heads up for Apollo owners, there are a few things that are different than the tutorial says. Nothing major but one that sticks out is the left crank case cover on the Apollo doesn't have the 3 Phillip's head screws it has 2 flat head "plugs" that you use instead.


 
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Old 04-12-2020, 09:44 PM   #22
Alollo Dean   Alollo Dean is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alollo Dean View Post
Just a heads up for Apollo owners, there are a few things that are different than the tutorial says. Nothing major but one that sticks out is the left crank case cover on the Apollo doesn't have the 3 Phillip's head screws it has 2 flat head "plugs" that you use instead.
Crap, after reading your post again I realized we may have messed up today checking the valves. As it turns out there was basically no gap but for some reason I thought 8 was the number. I guess we'll see when I fire it up next time.


 
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Old 04-15-2020, 03:08 AM   #23
Apollo250   Apollo250 is offline
 
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I rode mine for the first time earlier today. I noticed that I had to use about half choke to get the bike to run good, even when warmed up. Give that a try. Gotta remember that these carbs are not optimal. I will be investing in a new carb soon.

Hope this helps


 
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Old 04-15-2020, 06:11 PM   #24
2LZ   2LZ is offline
 
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All my CB's have come super lean out of box, but not so lean I had to use the choke! Wow....
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