08-18-2019, 10:57 PM | #16 | |
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Argentina
Posts: 756
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My Toyota Hilux 4x4 diesel gets about 30 to 33 mpg, i can haul all i need, i can do about 900 km with a tank. So why settle for less mpg? Same goes here if other motorcycle with the same engine are doing 70 mpg why settle with 55 mpg. It's just a waste o money and resources. |
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08-18-2019, 11:14 PM | #17 | |
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Stockport, Oh.
Posts: 1,442
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All the reasons you stated are valid, but to me 55mpg is good gas mileage. And anything that is designed to go offroad usually isn't fuel efficient. |
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08-18-2019, 11:40 PM | #18 | |
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Argentina
Posts: 756
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In the old continent and South America we have a lot of old stone paved roads that can be pain to ride with a street motorcycle and for those roads, the on/off motorcycle are a great choice. About the 55 mpg i don't think is that bad either. Like in said in an early post i used to have the same millage when i was running a bit rich. The only reason that i tuned the carb was because the engine was randonly stalling at idle and the petrol smell was too strong. But if his motorcycle runs fine i wouldn't worry that much either. |
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08-19-2019, 05:24 AM | #19 | |||
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 10
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Since we got through discussion if it is important for bike to be fuel efficient or not, can we focus on reasons for increased fuel consumption apart from carb tuning? |
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08-19-2019, 09:35 AM | #20 | |
Join Date: May 2013
Location: finger lakes NY
Posts: 2,045
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bottom line is asking a 200cc to push 65mph and be efficient just isnt going to happen, not on a carb'd overhead valve engine (or stock ohc for that matter) |
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08-19-2019, 10:33 AM | #21 | |
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Argentina
Posts: 756
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-You worked on chinese bike before -You checked the spark plug, cables -You replaced the piston rings -You changed the carb for a pz30. Which means you have done almost everything to have the bike running properly BUT This is the problem when it comes to troubleshooting over the internet and i'm saying this without trying to be rude or offensive. We have to assume that all of those step were done without mistakes, that you checked the CID, that you checked that the cylinder and piston clearance is within specs, that the carb is jetted correctly and tuned right. |
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08-19-2019, 10:59 AM | #22 |
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Port Huron, Michigan
Posts: 637
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It's fairly simple, either the carb is rich, the engine is inefficient to your standards, the bike has a defect or your riding style is wasting gas. Have you checked for dragging brakes or a tight wheel? Do you use the throttle as an on/off switch or ride WOT constantly? Have you had someone knowledgeable with carbureted engines check your tuning work? The carb is the only way gas gets into the engine which is why most are pointing you to it being jetter rich. Riding style would be the next guess, yeah its only 50cc bigger but its a completely different engine, if you beat the hell out of it it's going to consume a lot more fuel.
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08-19-2019, 11:01 AM | #23 | |
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Argentina
Posts: 756
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08-19-2019, 01:30 PM | #24 |
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea
Posts: 1,481
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I would double check compression and leakdown. What are your valves set at? This is assuming that you've covered the basics like not having too restrictive of an exhaust (like undue restrictions from bad welds from flange to header, or the pipe being plugged up/fouled by the burning oil), a clean air filter, nothing binding in the driveline (like from the wheel spacers being put on the wrong side), or also like bad bearings or dragging breaks, and no air leaks on any side. You could also play with spark plug heat range. Also, is the crankcase vent plugged? That can reduce efficiency, too. You probably won't reach peak efficiency until the engine is properly broken in, too.
I had a Chinese bike where the intake manifold had a gasket (if its the Honda copy, the intake should normally have an o-ring, which if the o-ring isn't bad is sufficient to seal it) that was cutting of 1/8 of the intake port. Speaking of ports, you could also clean up the ports, because the more efficiently the bike makes power, the more easily air can be pumped by the engine, and the more efficiently it will burn fuel. After that, I would consider gearing. What is the speed that you are hoping to cruise at, and do you know roughly where the max torque is produced? I would gear accordingly, so that you can run (if it has enough power) roughly 3/4 load at the torque peak RPM (where the engine is running the most efficiently) at cruising speed. You could also adjust cruising speed accordingly. After that, you could look at fuel injection, that might eke out a little more economy. |
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08-19-2019, 03:11 PM | #25 | ||||||||||||
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 10
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@bogieboy
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On this note, because it started to bother me, are there some tuning templates for this setup (like jet sizes and needle position)? @duck9191 Quote:
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08-19-2019, 03:44 PM | #26 |
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Houma, La.
Posts: 11,568
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One main factor is not mentioned here. What sprockets are you running? If you are running a low geared set of sprockets you will be turning higher rpms at 55 mph which means you will be burning more fuel to do the same speeds if you were geared higher. Good example is my set up. Saturday I took a long ride running 55-60 mph with 17/40 sprockets. At 55mph I'm turning about 5200 rpms and got 70mpg on the trip. I usually get 65-70mpg depending on speed. At one time I was running 15/40 sprockets. At 55 mph I was turning about 5900 rpms and would only get 58-63 mpg. 700 rpms affected the fuel mileage a good bit as you can see. I never really checked it with the stock 15/50 sprockets because they were to low geared so did do much street riding to check the fuel mileage. At 55mph it would be turning about 7400 rpms. But I'm sure it was much less the what you are getting now.
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08-19-2019, 03:56 PM | #27 | |
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea
Posts: 1,481
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Break-in primarily refers to the relationship between the rings and the bore; you put new rings in, it has to be re-broken in, and it is a matter of hours/revolutions the engine has turned with the components inside of the engine, not the age of said engine (especially as ideally the piston is never in contact with the bore, just the piston rings). It is possible that the bore is glazed, too, and if so, it would need to be re-honed so that the rings could properly seat, or you could replace the cylinder, as they're a dime a dozen. Like I said, I'd do a compression and leakdown test. |
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08-19-2019, 04:45 PM | #28 | |||||
Join Date: May 2013
Location: finger lakes NY
Posts: 2,045
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so, lets pull some empirical evidence... 2008 wr250r, averages from Fuely.com, so real world numbers that people have recorded: http://www.fuelly.com/motorcycle/yamaha/wr250r/2008
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so in the end, it would seem that 55-60 mpg is acceptable for a 200-250cc engine mainstream, but not really for a 400-450... may i ask what dual sport 450s with carburetors average 60 mpg? |
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08-19-2019, 07:16 PM | #29 |
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 10
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@boogieboy
May I ask why you bring fuel consumption of Japanese bikes while we are talking about Chinese bikes that, as was clearly stated before, doesn't have specific dual-sport engines? Also why asking of specifically dual-sport 450cc bike, when it was you who allegorical evidence that actually supported point that style of frame and wheels doesn't matter much in fuel economy department? If you wanna talk empirical evidence show me averages of engines from Chinese line. It would be 163fml for 200cc and 167fmm for 250cc. By the way, Fuelly.com is not popular with chinese motorcycles owners, it seems. Found one owner of LF200GY-6 though (it's a 200 dual-sport with ohv version of engine as mine). http://www.fuelly.com/motorcycle/lifan/lf200gy-6 |
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