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Old 11-07-2017, 01:13 AM   #16
pete   pete is offline
 
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well I have a whole one liter bottle..... Dose that count
And I'm going to recycle it... dig a hole and tip it in...

12 5 q jugs or 7 5 gal buckets.... hard to pick a winner there...
and then yer toss the 15 gal keg into the mix it even gets harder...

Ok guys it will have to be a draw.....



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Old 11-07-2017, 07:22 AM   #17
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we have about 3000 gallons of recycled oil where i work.... but then again we recycle it by heating the shop with it...


 
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Old 11-07-2017, 02:23 PM   #18
2LZ   2LZ is offline
 
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Break-in procedure threads come to the same consensus as oil threads. Everyone has their own experiences and opinions.
Mine? "Harder" break-ins on two strokes, factory recommended break-ins on four strokes.
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Old 11-07-2017, 04:10 PM   #19
HawkTwoFifty   HawkTwoFifty is offline
 
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Thumbs Up

Thanks everyone for your input. The members replying to this thread who have proven to me to be the most helpful and most thoroughly-informed and knowledgeable members replying to my posts on this forum have each expressed their favorability to the 'hard break-in'.

I am glad to have reached my decision and am following the advice of the members here who have proven their credibility to me here over and over again! (Hint-hint...JerryHawk250 and Megadan -- THANK YOU SIRS!)



 
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Old 11-07-2017, 09:11 PM   #20
BlackBike   BlackBike is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Megadan View Post
So what does my 7 5 gallon buckets say about me...
It says your a tree hugging liberal that sniffs their own farts
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Old 11-07-2017, 10:00 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2LZ View Post
Break-in procedure threads come to the same consensus as oil threads. Everyone has their own experiences and opinions.
Mine? "Harder" break-ins on two strokes, factory recommended break-ins on four strokes.
Factory break in procedures are written by lawyers. Most factory bikes/ engines are put on a dyno and cranked super hard for several minutes before they even leave the factory.

Hawktwofifty, just be vigilant and methidical. Pushing any motor hard always has an inherent risk. So the more attentive and cautious you are, the better.

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It says your a tree hugging liberal that sniffs their own farts
Or I am a micro oil baron bent on world destruction...
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Old 11-08-2017, 01:01 AM   #22
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[QUOTE=
Or I am a micro oil baron bent on world destruction...[/QUOTE]

and sniffs his own farts!
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Old 11-08-2017, 02:18 AM   #23
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and sniffs his own farts!
What, you don't? Weirdo!
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Old 11-08-2017, 11:34 AM   #24
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I did mine pretty close to Dan's hard break in, lots of initial mild heat cycles and oil changes in between. Maybe why mine will do 62mph with 17/50 sprockets combination?
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Old 11-09-2017, 05:12 PM   #25
2LZ   2LZ is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Megadan View Post
Factory break in procedures are written by lawyers. Most factory bikes/ engines are put on a dyno and cranked super hard for several minutes before they even leave the factory.
...
Like I said, break-in threads come to the same consensus as oil threads.

"In my experience", which is all I can speak from, I've seen more than a few four stroke motors lock cams in cam bearings and snap chains because the new owner whipped the snot out of a new motor and the "hot spots" seized up before they could completely mate surfaces.

To each their own............
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Old 11-09-2017, 07:28 PM   #26
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Grin

Quote:
Originally Posted by Megadan View Post
What, you don't? Weirdo!

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Old 11-10-2017, 07:38 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2LZ View Post
Like I said, break-in threads come to the same consensus as oil threads.

"In my experience", which is all I can speak from, I've seen more than a few four stroke motors lock cams in cam bearings and snap chains because the new owner whipped the snot out of a new motor and the "hot spots" seized up before they could completely mate surfaces.

To each their own............
not trying to start a fight here, but if an engine is built correctly, and the oil pressure and tolerances are correct, that simply wont happen.... plasti-gage is a must when building motors....


 
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Old 11-10-2017, 09:13 AM   #28
Ariel Red Hunter   Ariel Red Hunter is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HawkTwoFifty View Post
Thanks everyone for your input. The members replying to this thread who have proven to me to be the most helpful and most thoroughly-informed and knowledgeable members replying to my posts on this forum have each expressed their favorability to the 'hard break-in'.

I am glad to have reached my decision and am following the advice of the members here who have proven their credibility to me here over and over again! (Hint-hint...JerryHawk250 and Megadan -- THANK YOU SIRS!)

I don't recommend the hard break in for you unless you change the jetting in your carb....ARH


 
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Old 11-10-2017, 09:51 AM   #29
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So here's my two-cents worth on this topic. I've been tinkering with engines for everything that has wheels, and most things without. I've rebuilt two aircraft reciprocating engines, a whole mess of jet engines (thank you Air Force) and boat, auto and motorcycle engines galore. What I take away from all that experience, but most specifically the aircraft engine experience is this: You can't do a gentle break in on an aircraft engine. You'd run out of runway before you ever got it off the ground. I think that Megadan has a reliable, methodical practice laid out that closely mirrors what happens when you rebuild an aircraft engine. Run it on the ground for a bit to make sure you don't have any leaks or it's not making expensive sounding noises. Shut it down and let it cool while you top up the fluids and inspect everything. Then, GO FLY! As part of the take off requirement you'll have a hard full throttle run to get airborne and up to altitude, and then you adjust power for cruise. Do some flying to benchmark the performance, and then you reduce power and land. All in all, my takeaway mentality is to break the engine in the way you intend to use it. Breaking in an engine is one of those things that everyone has an opinion on or does differently. I say do what makes you the most comfortable because you're the one that has to live with the results.
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Old 11-10-2017, 02:24 PM   #30
pete   pete is offline
 
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dirt / race bike...
easy for the first tank of fuel...
and then ring it's neck....

road / duel sport / ADV...
don't sit at constant revs for to long
to stop the bore glazing up...

Don't use full syn oil... can stop / slow the running in process..
Use semi syn or dino...

...
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09 XT660R ...
06 TTR250 ...
80 Montesa H6 125 Enduro...
77 Montesa Cota 348 MRR "Malcom Rathnell Replica"...

Current resto projects..
81 Honda CT110...
80 Kawasaki KL250A1...

11 Husaburg TE125 enduro... "sold" along with another 31...
Lifan 125 Pitbike.. "stolen" ...

KIWI BIKER FORUM...... http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/content.php

All the best offroad rides in NZ...
http://www.remotemoto.com/

E-mail... xtpete1@gmail.com



Last edited by pete; 11-10-2017 at 04:03 PM.
 
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