Hawk Talk - Page 27

Skurdy · 02-08-2017, 01:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

Conroe, isn't that just north of Houston?

Mhm

pistolclass · 02-08-2017, 07:48 AM

check the valve lash to make sure it is ok. My bike was hard to start until i did that.

**JerryHawk250** · 02-08-2017, 07:53 AM

Skurdy,
That screw is only for adjusting Idle Speed. If you remove the carburetor and flip it over you will see a black plastic plug. I used a drywall screw and drilled it into it to remove it. That's were your idle mixture screw is. Close it all the way and back it out to 1 1/2 turns to start with. That worked perfect on mine. Also take the needle and shim it with 2 thin washers. This will help on cold starts. Order some jets for it and change out the main jet to a 110 if you have the stock exhaust. You can use a hack saw to cut slots in the screws to remove the bowl. Motocheez has a good YouTube video on how to do it.
Also your shocks should be almost flush with the top of the triple tree.

Ariel Red Hunter · 02-08-2017, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JonHTEXAS

Ya while bypassing the solenoid in that split sec before it cranks up the green neutral comes on.. Can u point me in the direction of the ground? I don't see any wires around the battery going to the frame.. I bought a new battery and 12v battery charger assuming that was the issue but the old battery is fine.. thanks..

Update... It was just the glass fuse from the solenoid duh.. I had checked it and it looked fine but changed it anyway and all is good now.. Thanks for your help

For future reference, the positive side with a + mark on the battery is connected to a red wire, which then feeds the bikes electrical system. the other post on the battery, marked with a - is the negative side with a black wire going to the frame. This is the ground. Quite often, there is paint on the frame where the ground wire connects to it. Paint is a poor insulator, but an insulator never the less. ARH

Skurdy · 02-10-2017, 12:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

Skurdy,
That screw is only for adjusting Idle Speed. If you remove the carburetor and flip it over you will see a black plastic plug. I used a drywall screw and drilled it into it to remove it. That's were your idle mixture screw is. Close it all the way and back it out to 1 1/2 turns to start with. That worked perfect on mine. Also take the needle and shim it with 2 thin washers. This will help on cold starts. Order some jets for it and change out the main jet to a 110 if you have the stock exhaust. You can use a hack saw to cut slots in the screws to remove the bowl. Motocheez has a good YouTube video on how to do it.
Also your shocks should be almost flush with the top of the triple tree.

yeah i did, also I have a question doesn't the hawk 250 have a master link on it? (Chain) Another thing about to order the Mikuni VM 26 30mm Carb, it comes with a stock jet in it right? also thanks!

Skurdy · 02-10-2017, 12:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pistolclass

check the valve lash to make sure it is ok. My bike was hard to start until i did that.

No Clue where that's even Located?!

hertz9753 · 02-10-2017, 07:50 AM

Look up RPS Hawk 250 on YouTube.

**JerryHawk250** · 02-10-2017, 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skurdy

yeah i did, also I have a question doesn't the hawk 250 have a master link on it? (Chain) Another thing about to order the Mikuni VM 26 30mm Carb, it comes with a stock jet in it right? also thanks!

Yes it does have a master link. The Mikuni will come with stock jets. I'm not the exact size it comes with but I know you will have to change out to a larger jet.

**JerryHawk250** · 02-10-2017, 08:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hertz9753

Look up RPS Hawk 250 on YouTube.

I 2nd that. there are a few youtube videos on tuning the carb, valve adjustment and pretty much anything else you need to know.

Ariel Red Hunter · 02-10-2017, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skurdy

No Clue where that's even Located?!

You know it is an overhead valve engine, right? So the valves and rocker arms are under that valve cover on the very top of the engine. Adjusting valve lash means first measuring, then adjusting the clearance between the rocker arm and the valve. There are two valves. One lets the air/fuel mixture in to the cylinder, and the other lets the super heated air, along with the remains of the burnt fuel, out of the engine. That valve is the front one in the engine. Called the exhaust valve. The other one is called the intake valve. Motocheeze has a video on youtube showing how to do this. I reccomend you watch that video several times until you "get it".

Ariel Red Hunter · 02-10-2017, 10:06 AM

Hey, you guys that remember me extolling the virtues of the Mikuni VM26 with a starting circuit instead of a butterfly choke, but tripped over your chain-drive-wallet, here's a real deal, as long as they last. https://www. amazon.com/dp/BOOBXLOQSM Such a deal.

TaborTot · 02-10-2017, 12:32 PM

hi everyone! Just wanted to say that everyone on here is full of great knowledge and thank you for sharing all of it. I ordered sprockets and chains, carbs, a rear shock, and a feeler gage for the hawks I bought for the wife and myself based on what Iv read on the different forums on this page. Parts are supposed to be arriving as early as Tuesday! Ill be putting them on as I get them and ill finally get to adjust the valves. I have almost 1000 miles on my bike and my wife has 300 on hers. I have watched the Motocheese videos on YouTube and can't wait to get hands on with the Hawks. I'm sure ill have questions that have probably been asked and answered on here several times so please be patient with me haha... Again thanks to all of you for your infinite wisdom!

chuck · 02-10-2017, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

Hey, you guys that remember me extolling the virtues of the Mikuni VM26 with a starting circuit instead of a butterfly choke, but tripped over your chain-drive-wallet, here's a real deal, as long as they last. https://www. amazon.com/dp/BOOBXLOQSM Such a deal.

Just ordered 1 of the 4 left.

Ariel Red Hunter · 02-11-2017, 11:20 AM

One of the chief advantages of the engine used in the Hawk (and others) is the absolutely rigid and stiff crankcases. You would be amazed how much engine horspower is eaten up by panting engine cases. This is one of the many things that let engines get horsepower to the ground. Non-rigid crankcases absorb horsepower by getting slightly out of true, and then putting loads on the main bearings that they were never designed to deal with. When the main bearings do not run absolutely true to the crankshaft, two primary things happen. 1) Overloading one end or the other of the main bearings, especially roller bearings. This leads to short bearing life, and, by running out of true, increased friction. 2) And very serious, putting bending loads on the crankshaft. And worse yet "panting" means not a steady off center load, but repeating the whole bending process every other revolution, during the power stroke, and then whipping back to where it was designed to be for the next two strokes. Now crankshafts are made of very high tensile steel, and then hardend where the bearings run. The rod bearing, and the two or three main bearings. High tensile steel, hardened, is pretty well bullet proof as long as the crank cases are rigid. But put bending loads on them and crank failure is inevitable.

Ariel Red Hunter · 02-11-2017, 12:21 PM

It took about 25 years before it perculated through the engineering world how important rigid crankcases were. I would not be at all surprised to learn that this knowledge came with the introduction of the dynomometer metheod of taking torque readings. The Prony Brake metheod led to flash readings because you couldn't cool them effectively. But a dynomometer can be cooled, and so allowed long dyno runs. When an engine is pulled down after a long dyno run, one can measure where wear is occuring in the engine. I would bet that the bearing wear after 100 hours at 85% of full power came as a real wake-up call to those engineers. There was no excuse for the accelerated bearing wear. They used to just shrug it off as dirty oil, or too much spark advance, or whatever. But no way to shrug off engine wear on a dynomometer in a lab with controlled conditions.

02-08-2017, 07:53 AM	#393
JerryHawk250 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Houma, La. Posts: 11,578	Skurdy, That screw is only for adjusting Idle Speed. If you remove the carburetor and flip it over you will see a black plastic plug. I used a drywall screw and drilled it into it to remove it. That's were your idle mixture screw is. Close it all the way and back it out to 1 1/2 turns to start with. That worked perfect on mine. Also take the needle and shim it with 2 thin washers. This will help on cold starts. Order some jets for it and change out the main jet to a 110 if you have the stock exhaust. You can use a hack saw to cut slots in the screws to remove the bowl. Motocheez has a good YouTube video on how to do it. Also your shocks should be almost flush with the top of the triple tree. __________________ 2023 Lifan Lycan 250 Chopper 2023 Venom Evader 2022 Lifan KPX250 2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S 2004 Honda ST 1300 2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold) Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster 2016 Cazador180 XL 2014 Coolster150 JerryHawk250.com My YouTube Channel
	0

02-10-2017, 07:50 AM	#397
hertz9753 Join Date: May 2016 Location: Bismarck, ND Posts: 868	Look up RPS Hawk 250 on YouTube. __________________ 2015 and 3/4 RPS Hawk 250. Most people would call it a 2016 but the MCO didn't.
	2

02-10-2017, 10:06 AM	#401
Ariel Red Hunter Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: akwesasne, NY-13655 Posts: 2,220	Carburetor Magic Hey, you guys that remember me extolling the virtues of the Mikuni VM26 with a starting circuit instead of a butterfly choke, but tripped over your chain-drive-wallet, here's a real deal, as long as they last. https://www. amazon.com/dp/BOOBXLOQSM Such a deal. Last edited by Ariel Red Hunter; 02-10-2017 at 07:22 PM.
	0

02-10-2017, 12:32 PM	#402
TaborTot Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Arkansas Posts: 12	new parts! hi everyone! Just wanted to say that everyone on here is full of great knowledge and thank you for sharing all of it. I ordered sprockets and chains, carbs, a rear shock, and a feeler gage for the hawks I bought for the wife and myself based on what Iv read on the different forums on this page. Parts are supposed to be arriving as early as Tuesday! Ill be putting them on as I get them and ill finally get to adjust the valves. I have almost 1000 miles on my bike and my wife has 300 on hers. I have watched the Motocheese videos on YouTube and can't wait to get hands on with the Hawks. I'm sure ill have questions that have probably been asked and answered on here several times so please be patient with me haha... Again thanks to all of you for your infinite wisdom!
	2

02-11-2017, 11:20 AM	#404
Ariel Red Hunter Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: akwesasne, NY-13655 Posts: 2,220	Top end horsepower One of the chief advantages of the engine used in the Hawk (and others) is the absolutely rigid and stiff crankcases. You would be amazed how much engine horspower is eaten up by panting engine cases. This is one of the many things that let engines get horsepower to the ground. Non-rigid crankcases absorb horsepower by getting slightly out of true, and then putting loads on the main bearings that they were never designed to deal with. When the main bearings do not run absolutely true to the crankshaft, two primary things happen. 1) Overloading one end or the other of the main bearings, especially roller bearings. This leads to short bearing life, and, by running out of true, increased friction. 2) And very serious, putting bending loads on the crankshaft. And worse yet "panting" means not a steady off center load, but repeating the whole bending process every other revolution, during the power stroke, and then whipping back to where it was designed to be for the next two strokes. Now crankshafts are made of very high tensile steel, and then hardend where the bearings run. The rod bearing, and the two or three main bearings. High tensile steel, hardened, is pretty well bullet proof as long as the crank cases are rigid. But put bending loads on them and crank failure is inevitable.
	0

02-08-2017, 07:48 AM	#392
pistolclass Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: connecticut Posts: 978	check the valve lash to make sure it is ok. My bike was hard to start until i did that.
	0

02-11-2017, 12:21 PM	#405
Ariel Red Hunter Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: akwesasne, NY-13655 Posts: 2,220	And some more of the story It took about 25 years before it perculated through the engineering world how important rigid crankcases were. I would not be at all surprised to learn that this knowledge came with the introduction of the dynomometer metheod of taking torque readings. The Prony Brake metheod led to flash readings because you couldn't cool them effectively. But a dynomometer can be cooled, and so allowed long dyno runs. When an engine is pulled down after a long dyno run, one can measure where wear is occuring in the engine. I would bet that the bearing wear after 100 hours at 85% of full power came as a real wake-up call to those engineers. There was no excuse for the accelerated bearing wear. They used to just shrug it off as dirty oil, or too much spark advance, or whatever. But no way to shrug off engine wear on a dynomometer in a lab with controlled conditions.
	0