ZS200GY-A (169FML) Loud whine in 1., 3. and 4. gear.

[Kivi]

Hi all! Thanks.
Please, stay close to this thread, as you can. I will need help!
The work has started.


For start I have a question. Do I HAVE to remove, cover, head and cilynder apart, or could I remove 3 parts altogether?

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

To be clear, the countershaft seal is not part of the left side countershaft bearing. In fact, you can pull the seal and replace it without removing anything other than the sprocket, but that's not your issue.


You can certainly use a product that is intended for sealing machined surfaces. In North America, we have a product called Three Bond that is excellent for this purpose. Loctite also makes a sealant designed for this use. I suspect you'll be able to find Loctite products locally.


If you choose to split the case to remove the bearings, you might find it easier to use boiling water to extract the bearings. I use a large pot on a propane camp stove and get the water to a rapid boil, with the case half in the water. After it has boiled for a few minutes, I quickly remove it (while wearing welding gloves) and give the bearing a tap; they usually fall right out. Aluminum begins to expand at 100 C, but steel does not.

I used the kitchen oven to heat the cases. My wife handed me oven mitts to handle the heated cases. I then tapped the cases on a cutting board, and bingo, they fell right out....ARH

[Mudflap]

You will have to remove the cylinder.

[Kivi]

Is the bolt for the flywheel and magnet straight thread or reversed thread?

[Kivi]

Piston and valves...Are these carbon deposits OK?
Spark plug, is it a little lean?

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Kivi

Piston and valves...Are these carbon deposits OK?
Spark plug, is it a little lean?

I think it is a little rich. But the question is - how fast was it ridden by the previous owner. If it was ridden pretty fast, could be main jet is a little rich. If he rode it more between 30 -50 mph, the needle could be the culprit, meaning that the clip is too far down the needle...ARH

[Kivi]

Hey, new moment. I thought that this engine has 69x53mm bore and stroke, but I measured about 63x63mm bore and stroke. This coresponds to 163FML engine, and mine should be ZS169FML. What is going on?!
I pretty much disassembled the engine. I have to remve the magnet with some puller, and to make a tool for centrifugal oil filter (ARH, yes, it has it). Filter has done nice job, btw, but no big particles, only metal dust.
I see broken tooth only on the input shaft kick starter gear.
Is there a specification for clutch plates minimum thicknes? I see there are friction plates, and other metal plates. Are both changed or only the friction plates?

[humanbeing]

d/l a shop manual https://josemaco.files.wordpress.com...h-62ktjam5.pdf
[friction] Wear limit:2.6mm
[metal] Check -Any cracks? -Wrapage? Put on flat surface (glass...) is easiest method / Holes that holds oil ... These thingy is reusable in most case...
---
Typical ZS CG200 IS 63.5mm https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=524001789602 | 63 is Loncin https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=36309545428

[Rangerscott]

Its like the 169FMM engines. Not all chinese engines are true to their markings.


Flywheel bolt is righty tighty, lefty loosy.

[humanbeing]

QC/T just a industry standard (ie. Non-mandatory) http://www.antpedia.com/standard/6782608-1.html . U can call it whatever in EXPORT versions...

[Kivi]

Hi,
I have very big problem here.
See the pic:
The bearing has desintegrated, but the outer sleeve of the bearing is inside, you can see it in pic. I haven't found any balls or needles from bearing. Also, inner bearing sleeve is missing. There is also some damage on the aluminium housing. First, I would have to remove the metal sleeve from the housing, which is problem to me. It is fixed tightly.
Transmission looks good except for 1 missing tooth for the kick starter ring, which is not very important.

[Kivi]

OK, I managed to get out the remaining part of bearing. Can someone give me code for new bearing, I would put some quality bearing, like SKF or similar.

[Mudflap]

Probably a HK152312 needle bearing which is used on the Lifan and the original Honda CG125. I assume the shaft itself is the inner bearing race so that will have to be in good shape.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Kivi

Hey, new moment. I thought that this engine has 69x53mm bore and stroke, but I measured about 63x63mm bore and stroke. This coresponds to 163FML engine, and mine should be ZS169FML. What is going on?!
I pretty much disassembled the engine. I have to remve the magnet with some puller, and to make a tool for centrifugal oil filter (ARH, yes, it has it). Filter has done nice job, btw, but no big particles, only metal dust.
I see broken tooth only on the input shaft kick starter gear.
Is there a specification for clutch plates minimum thicknes? I see there are friction plates, and other metal plates. Are both changed or only the friction plates?

Only the friction plates, unless the plain metal plates are warped or overheated (color change or warped). Yes, that ruined bearing looks like the remains of a needle bearing. The needles may be in the bottom of the transmission case. Get all of the trash you can out of the engine before re-assembly...ARH

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

Only the friction plates, unless the plain metal plates are warped or overheated (color change or warped). Yes, that ruined bearing looks like the remains of a needle bearing. The needles may be in the bottom of the transmission case. Get all of the trash you can out of the engine before re-assembly...ARH

If I recall correctly, you had a lot of slop on the output shaft at the bearing/seal area. Have you pulled that bearing out yet? Is it loose, meaning the balls or the cage is worn oversize?...ARH