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10-20-2010, 12:49 AM | #31 | |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
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Quote:
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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10-20-2010, 01:33 AM | #32 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
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BTW, here's the direction I went with my son's 125: http://www.chinariders.net/modules.p...ewtopic&t=7703
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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10-20-2010, 10:17 PM | #33 |
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 41
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ahhh right on. So the RM50 bolt pattern matches the 125.. I'm pretty sure the 125 and 140 gio use the same pattern so I'll just double check that when I get my meter.. and the RM50 is the same bolt pattern as the Suzuki JR80 up to 03 or something.. except the JR80 is 428 so that should be a perfect match..
how much smaller should I go? the 140 has a 48 tooth now, will 42 be a huge difference? |
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10-21-2010, 01:15 AM | #34 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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Think of it as a final drive ratio, like a car. If your rear sprocket is a 48, and I presume that your front sprocket is a 14, the final drive ratio is 3.43. Check out the chart: http://www.jtsprockets.com/fileadmin...tgearratio.pdf
Changing to a 42 would bring you to a flat 3.00; that's not a huge increase. Once you get into the low two's, you're in land speed racing territory. If we can somehow determine the rpm you're turning in top gear at full throttle, we can calculate your top speed. We can then reverse-engineer the process and see what effect other ratios will have.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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10-21-2010, 05:52 AM | #35 |
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 41
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Gio list's the bike as having a final drive of 15:48, so a 42 will be 2.80 from 3.20.
Right now the bike will rev as high as you want in 4th. I think peak hp is at something like 7400 rpm. |
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10-21-2010, 08:50 AM | #36 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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I forgot to include overall tire diameter, in inches. Once you have that, plug the constants in here: http://www.angelfire.com/fl/procrastination/rear.html
There are several good calculators on the 'net, so let us know which one you choose. BTW, my guess on the ratio in fourth gear is 1.00:1, but IDK for sure.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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10-27-2010, 08:49 AM | #37 |
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 41
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Still haven't touched the sprocket, been too busy working on the headlight and wiring lol...
Anywho, I just got the warranty carb and tank this morning and the carb is a different model. I'm wondering if it might be better or worse.. first thing I like is the Air/Fuel mix is not directly under the bowl where it is impossible to adjust. instead it's on the same side as the idle screw. and choke is a metal lever that moves a slide instead of a flap like my stock carb. here's a couple pics... maybe someone will know if it's any better than what I have.. or if I just just leave the old one on. |
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10-27-2010, 11:43 AM | #38 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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It's tough to tell which carb to recommend, because different sides are shown. Maybe someone else here will know the difference right away. I'd try the new carb and see how it performs.
Love your Lego creation on the table.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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10-27-2010, 12:10 PM | #39 |
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: London, Ontario
Posts: 1,097
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With the A/F screw where it is on the new carb remember that it is backwards from the other location, when it is on the air filter side of the slide it controls air, screwing it in is richer, screwing it out is leaner.
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10-27-2010, 04:13 PM | #40 |
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 41
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thx.. actually those pictures are both of the new carb.. the original is still on the bike.
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10-29-2010, 06:17 PM | #41 |
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 41
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Guess I should have actually pulled my old carb and looked before I asked out that replacement.
completely smaller carb, won't work anyway lol.. Hopefully they can hook me up with the right one.. |
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11-15-2010, 09:31 PM | #42 |
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 41
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A little update... GIO did eventually get me the correct carb and I got it installed (with a proper foam air filter this time) and the bike is working really nice now.. I thought it was working good before but it did have a bit of hesitation but that is completely gone now.
and something else I thought was interesting... my neighbor bought an old 1984 Honda 200 big red three wheeler that was bogging quite bad and I couldn't help but notice the carb looked almost identical to the new spare PZ27 from my GIO so I suggested that we try swapping it just for fun. the damn thing was a PERFECT match (both Keihin), even the choke lever had the bracket to use his remote choke. incidentally my carb did fix his Big Red. just thought that was interesting.. |
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11-15-2010, 11:23 PM | #43 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Southeastern Washington desert
Posts: 14,761
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Good to hear. Everybody wins. Once again Gio gets a '+1' in my book for standing behind their product and their customers.
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Happy to serve. |
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11-16-2010, 01:42 AM | #44 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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Glad to hear that Gio took care of you. Is your buddy going to buy a carb from Gio?
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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11-17-2010, 01:27 PM | #45 |
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 41
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he already had a repair kit coming in the mail before we tried my PZ27.
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