Auxiliary Lights

[dave92029]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

Yes, of course. Then the large object in the wire must be a plug. Is that correct?

Yes

[SpudRider]

The plug is a nice feature which makes it much easier to remove engine guards without having to remove the lights.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

That does make sense. That said, perhaps the CSC mounting style would be easier. It seems to be easily adjustable on two planes.

The CSC lights are very well designed. I like the robust adjustable mounts and the large plugs in the wiring harness near the lights. I also like the secure placement of the lights which are fully inside the upper engine guard.

[Huck369]

Took some pics of the light spread...

First one Light on Low, no Aux lights, 2nd pic, Light on low with the Aux lights on also...

[SpudRider]

Thanks for posting the excellent photos. I obviously need to add some auxiliary lighting. The stock headlight does a good job illuminating the roadway ahead, but the peripheral lighting is marginal. Your second photo demonstrates the auxiliary lights are doing an excellent job.

[Danimal]

Word to the wise for anyone considering using the one's I am using that have
High/Low/Strobe functions
This morning for some reason they are not in synch any longer. When one is on high the other is on strobe, etc.
I can correct this by unplugging one and getting them on the same off/on sequence...but that may be a pain in the ass eventually if it continues to happen.

There IS a video on youtube showing how to disable the three-way and make them always on high with just a simple soldered bridge on the circuit board. I think that is where I am heading with them. I see no need for low power OR strobe (although strobing at a slow moving cage would no doubt get their attention, although illegal)

[Weldangrind]

Given the mounting style, brightness and toggle issue, I think I'd gravitate towards the TSC lights. The pattern that I'm seeing from Huck's pics looks quite good.

Danimal, what size do you think the clamp on your lights was meant to accommodate? 7/8"?

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

Thanks for posting the excellent photos. I obviously need to add some auxiliary lighting. The stock headlight does a good job illuminating the roadway ahead, but the peripheral lighting is marginal. Your second photo demonstrates the auxiliary lights are doing an excellent job.

LED auxiliary lights might be the perfect complement to the LED headlight that you're not currently using.

[roots]

Originally Posted by Danimal

Word to the wise for anyone considering using the one's I am using that have
High/Low/Strobe functions
This morning for some reason they are not in synch any longer. When one is on high the other is on strobe, etc.
I can correct this by unplugging one and getting them on the same off/on sequence...but

I have similar lights but without the cage around them. I thought I would have an issue with the functions, however they work perfectly once I hooked everything up with a relay. I have them tapped into aux1 and keep it on all the time. Everytime I start up they on are high and have not become un synced. If I switched the ignition power on/off/on quickly they toggle through the different modes. Or while riding if I switch the aux1 off and then on quickly they toggle, but if I pause for at least 5 seconds then they just turn back on in the hig mode.

I have no idea why it would matter, but I think it seems to related to the way I wired it.

[SpudRider]

I just discovered a new Tractor Supply in town. I am going to visit the store, and look for Huck's auxiliary lights.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pro...2?cm_vc=-10005

[Weldangrind]

To see what a good deal you're getting at TSC, take a look at these lights from Princess Auto: http://www.princessauto.com/en/detai...ht/A-p8466096e

A lousy nine watts total, and they're $69.99 each!

[Danimal]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Given the mounting style, brightness and toggle issue, I think I'd gravitate towards the TSC lights. The pattern that I'm seeing from Huck's pics looks quite good.

Danimal, what size do you think the clamp on your lights was meant to accommodate? 7/8"?

1" I think. The clamp fits the cage perfectly as far as diameter

I will repeat. You cannot compare the 30W output that is using 6 x 5W Cree LEDs to a projector using a single U5 Cree 30W chip.

The single chip projectors are VERY focused with little "bleed" to cause issues with oncoming cars (assuming you do not have them aimed too high.)

[Riceburner]

My Cree 10 watt driving lights, Duct Tape, the cure for what ever ales you...

The little attaching screw at the bottom of the light housing to the mounting bracket worked loose, both lights and they had blue lock tight (but it's the Filipino brand)

I do like them inside the crash bars, low and wide but they get a bit dirty, have to wash them off sometimes but the cars can still see me in the daytime, I keep them always turned "ON".

I wired the headlight "Hot", always "on" (not switched); here in the Philippines they are not always on like the US version and I want to be seen by on coming traffic.

So I used the OEM light switch, what the US RX3 uses as auxiliary A1 - A2, I used that for the driving lights, A1 is set to operate the right side light as a single unit if I want and A2 operates both. I'm sure your asking yourself, "self, why would he do that???" Because I live in the Philippines, that's why.

The drivers here are nuts, their lights are out of adjustment and yet they flash me . I know my headlight and driving lights do not shine high, not even close but they still flash me. The left light actually shines more to center on my travel line, in front of the tire path and the right is set to shine along the edge of the road so I can see the people walking with dark shirts on or the bicycle rider with no lights or reflectors.

With the the driving lights set to A1 and A2 I can turn off the left driving light, this reduces the flashing from on coming traffic but does not eliminate it.





,

Oh, my order of duct Tape arrived yesterday morning, just in time for that roadside fix-it yesterday afternoon...

[ElectricCircus]

Originally Posted by Riceburner

Oh, my order of duct Tape arrived yesterday morning, just in time for that roadside fix-it yesterday afternoon...

[NoVa Rider]

I mounted the $35 aux lights that are sold by the following ebay seller.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x125W-3000L...BUYwi9&vxp=mtr

I used the through bolt mount that joins the upper and lower engine guards, just like Huck did with his Tractor Supply lights in the first post in this thread. Ditched the clamps that came with the lights, got a longer (60mm) 8mm bolt and a half inch spacer, and ran the bolt through the sheet metal exterior frame of the lights. Super easy. They are exposed but I like the wider triangle for visibility for oncoming drivers. And in a spill, they are only $35.

My idea of rewiring the red hazard switch to work the lights did not work out. The wires go directly from the hazard switch to the turn signal switch. It could be done but I think too difficult to run new wires through the switch. So I wired the lights into the A2 circuit. Easy to toggle through high, low and strobe settings.

One of the lamps stopped working after about an hour. But the ebay seller has sent me a new one with apologies and no questions asked. I will give him a positive rating, and hope the failed lamp was a fluke.

I like the looks though on close inspection they are cheap. I am OK with the spot projection. I don't ride at night, and I mainly want the lights to increase visibility to oncoming drivers. And I admit it, the "cool" factor of aux lights without spending much money.