Beast arrived Oct 07 - Page 4

PCD · 10-17-2009, 05:56 PM

OK W&G...You were right. I bottomed the A/F screw, backed it out 2, and the idle issue is over.

Only small problem I have now is a bit of a stumble when hammering from 1/3 throttle....any help on which direction to try the screw?

Now that its running pretty good, heres a couple pics, nothing special and the front shocks arent here yet either.

Pete

Reveeen · 10-17-2009, 06:04 PM

any help on which direction to try the screw?

Don't move the idle screw (it's not called the idle mixture screw for nothing), move the needle.

waynev · 10-17-2009, 06:11 PM

Looking good, i like that you managed to get the loctite bottle in every pic, LOL, just got my beast together too, can't wait for my mikuni carb to get here, it runs, but not that good with the stock carb, i've got the better shocks here now and i'm still waiting for the pipe, rear strorage case, carb and CDI to arrive.

So far i'm happy, and also suprised that i could hand turn in every bolt during assembly, not like the cross threaded and stripped bolts on my other 2 gio atv's, assembly was straight forward, even with no instructions, all bolts were gone over and tightened, set the toe and caster and adjusted the clutch and brake cables.

Now a couple of questions, i drained the oil and added 1L of oil, the oil in the sight glass was at the top level, now after starting it ( and letting it sit for a day ) i cannot see the oil level in the sight glass, i thought it only took 1L to fill it ? Is there anything else i should be looking at on this particular quad before i go riding?

As for your carb tuning, you may want to read this http://www.iwt.com.au/mikunicarb.htm

PCD · 10-17-2009, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reveeen

any help on which direction to try the screw?

Don't move the idle screw (it's not called the idle mixture screw for nothing), move the needle.

Hi Reveen
The idle screw was already set by me earlier (the screw on the side of the Mikuni) and the one I recently adjusted was the one at the bottom of the Mikuni.

I have removed the needle at the Mikuni peeps set it to the richest setting, but it seems to be OK there so far, I just have this annoying stuble at 1/3 speed when I let her go (nail it).

PCD · 10-17-2009, 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waynev

Looking good, i like that you managed to get the loctite bottle in every pic, LOL, just got my beast together too, can't wait for my mikuni carb to get here, it runs, but not that good with the stock carb, i've got the better shocks here now and i'm still waiting for the pipe, rear strorage case, carb and CDI to arrive.

So far i'm happy, and also suprised that i could hand turn in every bolt during assembly, not like the cross threaded and stripped bolts on my other 2 gio atv's, assembly was straight forward, even with no instructions, all bolts were gone over and tightened, set the toe and caster and adjusted the clutch and brake cables.

Now a couple of questions, i drained the oil and added 1L of oil, the oil in the sight glass was at the top level, now after starting it ( and letting it sit for a day ) i cannot see the oil level in the sight glass, i thought it only took 1L to fill it ? Is there anything else i should be looking at on this particular quad before i go riding?

As for your carb tuning, you may want to read this http://www.iwt.com.au/mikunicarb.htm

NGKDR8E is the 4th plug i tried and the bike loves it.

Oil...yeah, im on my third change...dump Chinese cooking oil..refill.....fart around an hour or so....refill....get the sumbiatch running right (finally) and beat it up a bit...drain and refill...this time it looked REAL dirty finally.

Now, my dipstik had the end chewed and twisted up, but no matter...I dumped a litre in every time and EVERY time I'm just above "L" on sight glass....I suspect it takes a little more and thats what I did, another 1/4 litre.....sight glass at 3/4 now. That was a 12 pack of Tall Boys right there (Honda oil

)

Heh...I had more than one bottle LOL.....

EDIT: Good link, thks, and make sure your chain is lined up...mine was almost perfect (front sprocket to back) although very, very tight.
The oils in the rubber clamp on your exhaust are going to smoke like crazy...the rubber isolater then melts a little, but stabilizes eventually, although Im sure it will leave a mark when peeled off the pipe.

PCD · 10-17-2009, 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reveeen

any help on which direction to try the screw?

Don't move the idle screw (it's not called the idle mixture screw for nothing), move the needle.

It just clicked. I think I just clued in.

The needle itself control the higher throttle positions, so if its on the fattest setting now (which it is) maybe moving up a notch will cure that correct?

PCD · 10-17-2009, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PCD

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reveeen

any help on which direction to try the screw?

Don't move the idle screw (it's not called the idle mixture screw for nothing), move the needle.

It just clicked. I think I just clued in.

The needle itself control the higher throttle positions, so if its on the fattest setting now (which it is) maybe moving up a notch will cure that correct?

Cure the stumble i mean.

waynev · 10-17-2009, 07:09 PM

Thanks for the spark plug info....but it's too late, i looked in the manual and seen the recommended plug as a NGK C7HSA which i bought and yes it doesn't fit, i guess i now have spare plugs for my 50cc and 110cc, i then went onto NGK's website and crossed a plug for the honda 200cc, so i too ended up with a NGK DR8ES-L, glad canadian tire carries these as it's only 4 min from my house so two trips was a nice break today.

I too have a winch coming for my beast but i'm still not sure if i'm going to mount it in it, if i eventually get my beast running great i'm planning on getting another one, stripping it down and using the parts to make an off road buggy which i'm sure the winch would come in handier for.

Haven't checked my chain alignment yet, will do that tomorrow, thanks.

MICRider · 10-17-2009, 08:00 PM

PCD, your Beast looks great... Sure wish I had gone for Urban Camo rather than glow in the dark orange now

. My son's Mini Beast purrs like a kitten, but I still have a bog/feather it to save issue on mine. Have a bid on a Mikuni so hopefully that will rectify it. Oh, and I might have to pick up a new battery for mine, it doesn't seem to hold any kind of a charge. Loving them both though, more bang for the buck than anything I have boughten lately! My neighbor was looking at them today and asking me how the heck they can build them and sell them for so cheap.

Regards,
Stew

PCD · 10-17-2009, 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waynev

Thanks for the spark plug info....but it's too late, i looked in the manual and seen the recommended plug as a NGK C7HSA which i bought and yes it doesn't fit, i guess i now have spare plugs for my 50cc and 110cc, i then went onto NGK's website and crossed a plug for the honda 200cc, so i too ended up with a NGK DR8ES-L, glad canadian tire carries these as it's only 4 min from my house so two trips was a nice break today.

I too have a winch coming for my beast but i'm still not sure if i'm going to mount it in it, if i eventually get my beast running great i'm planning on getting another one, stripping it down and using the parts to make an off road buggy which i'm sure the winch would come in handier for.

Haven't checked my chain alignment yet, will do that tomorrow, thanks.

Only place to put the winch by the way is the 2 frame rails running up towards the nose...guess what I bought to do it? Coil spring extenders...I will take a pic when I find em. It will be a tight fit due to the shock mounts, but Ive mocked it up.

The "E" on the plug just means extended electrode I think, and the "R" stands for resistor...I saw the manual ref too...not bloody likely

A 200cc engine would be about minimum (IMHO) for a buggy...800cc sounds way better

PCD · 10-17-2009, 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MICRider

PCD, your Beast looks great... Sure wish I had gone for Urban Camo rather than glow in the dark orange now

. My son's Mini Beast purrs like a kitten, but I still have a bog/feather it to save issue on mine. Have a bid on a Mikuni so hopefully that will rectify it. Oh, and I might have to pick up a new battery for mine, it doesn't seem to hold any kind of a charge. Loving them both though, more bang for the buck than anything I have boughten lately! My neighbor was looking at them today and asking me how the heck they can build them and sell them for so cheap.

Regards,
Stew

Thanks Stew...i would have taken orange and painted it, but i bugged him to go look and he found 2 Urbans left...I like it.

As for the build price...labor, labor, labor...the factories have camps, er, employee housing in which they live and dine...this is deducted from thier wage....one of the major factories on Alibaba states "we own 3800 workers"...I'm sure they didnt really mean it that way (cough).

Go to Wallymart for the batt..they have more powerfull replacements EXACTLY the same size...I just went overboard because of the winch.

make sure you get the power sports type and not a tractor batt...they have some anti vibration technology in em.

Pete

ATT: W&G...lets comprimise on the box...I did not do metal...but I just finished it out of 1/4" nylon sheet...had it laying around (not cheap".

Reveeen · 10-17-2009, 08:35 PM

It just clicked. I think I just clued in.

The needle itself control the higher throttle positions, so if its on the fattest setting now (which it is) maybe moving up a notch will cure that correct?

The idle "mixture" screw sets, of course, the idle mixture AND you adjust it a little rich to transition from idle to when the carb slide opens and you are on the main jet. A stumble at 1/3 throttle upwards you will cure with needle position, a bigger main jet, or a different needle. You try the easy stuff first (needle position), then try a bigger main jet (maybe dropping the needle if full throttle operation is too rich), needles are available (from Mukini) with different tapers (but try not to go here if you don't have to).
At least you are doing one and not 4.

All tuning becomes moot if you change the air filter, or exhaust, so do what you are going to end up with there, then fine tune the carb in.

PCD · 10-17-2009, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reveeen

It just clicked. I think I just clued in.

The needle itself control the higher throttle positions, so if its on the fattest setting now (which it is) maybe moving up a notch will cure that correct?

The idle "mixture" screw sets, of course, the idle mixture AND you adjust it a little rich to transition from idle to when the carb slide opens and you are on the main jet. A stumble at 1/3 throttle upwards you will cure with needle position, a bigger main jet, or a different needle. You try the easy stuff first (needle position), then try a bigger main jet (maybe dropping the needle if full throttle operation is too rich), needles are available (from Mukini) with different tapers (but try not to go here if you don't have to).
At least you are doing one and not 4.

All tuning becomes moot if you change the air filter, or exhaust, so do what you are going to end up with there, then fine tune the carb in.

By needle position you mean where the clip is on the needle correct? Take it out and move the clip up to a leaner position? its on the richest right now.

Yeah, Carb-Pipe_Ignition...all 3 at once is what I did...might as well start over I figured and set it up the way its going to stay.

EDIT: Yes, only 1...even 2 are tough...I have no idea how people do quad carbs or side drafts

....I kow they use the machine...that floating ball thing.

PCD · 10-17-2009, 09:13 PM

ATT: WAYNE
The case will rattle loose it 10 seconds. First, the clamps are too big to close properly even when the screws are fully tightened, so wrap the rack bar where the mount sits with 1/16" rubber or something, than mount the clamp and tighten.

This only solves half the problem, no matter how far outboard you mount the clamps (they only work one way, careful) the case will vibrate forwards out of its mounts.

So...find the spots on the bottom of the rack where the case is touching....I found 3 (perfect plane)..I then put 1/2" weatherstripping under those spots. Served 2 purposes...raises the case so the latches engage tighter and stops annoying vibration. Works real well.

Cheers

pete

Weldangrind · 10-17-2009, 09:42 PM

waynev, thanks for the great link. The truth is that max horsepower is not ususally attained at 14.7:1, it's usually somewhere in the 12's. The stoichiometrically ideal 14.7:1 is generally the best ratio for emissions though. Still, excellent article.

Pete, I'm with Reveen; you've adjusted the air / fuel screw to what seems to be the best setting, so try moving the clip up one notch on the needle and see if it behaves.

BTW, I haven't installed the Mikuni yet, and I can pull the front wheels on our Beast. The only mod so far has been a dual layer Uni pod. I can't wait to see what the Mikuni and a new pipe will do.

10-17-2009, 05:56 PM	#46
PCD Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Newmarket On Canada Posts: 382	OK W&G...You were right. I bottomed the A/F screw, backed it out 2, and the idle issue is over. Only small problem I have now is a bit of a stumble when hammering from 1/3 throttle....any help on which direction to try the screw? Now that its running pretty good, heres a couple pics, nothing special and the front shocks arent here yet either. Pete __________________ Good, Fast, or Cheap....Pick Two.
	0

10-17-2009, 09:13 PM	#59
PCD Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Newmarket On Canada Posts: 382	ATT: WAYNE The case will rattle loose it 10 seconds. First, the clamps are too big to close properly even when the screws are fully tightened, so wrap the rack bar where the mount sits with 1/16" rubber or something, than mount the clamp and tighten. This only solves half the problem, no matter how far outboard you mount the clamps (they only work one way, careful) the case will vibrate forwards out of its mounts. So...find the spots on the bottom of the rack where the case is touching....I found 3 (perfect plane)..I then put 1/2" weatherstripping under those spots. Served 2 purposes...raises the case so the latches engage tighter and stops annoying vibration. Works real well. Cheers pete __________________ Good, Fast, or Cheap....Pick Two.
	0

10-17-2009, 09:42 PM	#60
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	waynev, thanks for the great link. The truth is that max horsepower is not ususally attained at 14.7:1, it's usually somewhere in the 12's. The stoichiometrically ideal 14.7:1 is generally the best ratio for emissions though. Still, excellent article. Pete, I'm with Reveen; you've adjusted the air / fuel screw to what seems to be the best setting, so try moving the clip up one notch on the needle and see if it behaves. BTW, I haven't installed the Mikuni yet, and I can pull the front wheels on our Beast. The only mod so far has been a dual layer Uni pod. I can't wait to see what the Mikuni and a new pipe will do. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

10-17-2009, 06:04 PM	#47
Reveeen Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: orbital platform Posts: 741	any help on which direction to try the screw? Don't move the idle screw (it's not called the idle mixture screw for nothing), move the needle.
	0

10-17-2009, 06:11 PM	#48
waynev Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: London, Ontario Posts: 1,097	Looking good, i like that you managed to get the loctite bottle in every pic, LOL, just got my beast together too, can't wait for my mikuni carb to get here, it runs, but not that good with the stock carb, i've got the better shocks here now and i'm still waiting for the pipe, rear strorage case, carb and CDI to arrive. So far i'm happy, and also suprised that i could hand turn in every bolt during assembly, not like the cross threaded and stripped bolts on my other 2 gio atv's, assembly was straight forward, even with no instructions, all bolts were gone over and tightened, set the toe and caster and adjusted the clutch and brake cables. Now a couple of questions, i drained the oil and added 1L of oil, the oil in the sight glass was at the top level, now after starting it ( and letting it sit for a day ) i cannot see the oil level in the sight glass, i thought it only took 1L to fill it ? Is there anything else i should be looking at on this particular quad before i go riding? As for your carb tuning, you may want to read this http://www.iwt.com.au/mikunicarb.htm
	0

10-17-2009, 07:09 PM	#53
waynev Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: London, Ontario Posts: 1,097	Thanks for the spark plug info....but it's too late, i looked in the manual and seen the recommended plug as a NGK C7HSA which i bought and yes it doesn't fit, i guess i now have spare plugs for my 50cc and 110cc, i then went onto NGK's website and crossed a plug for the honda 200cc, so i too ended up with a NGK DR8ES-L, glad canadian tire carries these as it's only 4 min from my house so two trips was a nice break today. I too have a winch coming for my beast but i'm still not sure if i'm going to mount it in it, if i eventually get my beast running great i'm planning on getting another one, stripping it down and using the parts to make an off road buggy which i'm sure the winch would come in handier for. Haven't checked my chain alignment yet, will do that tomorrow, thanks.
	0

10-17-2009, 08:00 PM	#54
MICRider Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Alberta, Canada Posts: 3,274	PCD, your Beast looks great... Sure wish I had gone for Urban Camo rather than glow in the dark orange now . My son's Mini Beast purrs like a kitten, but I still have a bog/feather it to save issue on mine. Have a bid on a Mikuni so hopefully that will rectify it. Oh, and I might have to pick up a new battery for mine, it doesn't seem to hold any kind of a charge. Loving them both though, more bang for the buck than anything I have boughten lately! My neighbor was looking at them today and asking me how the heck they can build them and sell them for so cheap. Regards, Stew
	0

10-17-2009, 08:35 PM	#57
Reveeen Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: orbital platform Posts: 741	It just clicked. I think I just clued in. The needle itself control the higher throttle positions, so if its on the fattest setting now (which it is) maybe moving up a notch will cure that correct? The idle "mixture" screw sets, of course, the idle mixture AND you adjust it a little rich to transition from idle to when the carb slide opens and you are on the main jet. A stumble at 1/3 throttle upwards you will cure with needle position, a bigger main jet, or a different needle. You try the easy stuff first (needle position), then try a bigger main jet (maybe dropping the needle if full throttle operation is too rich), needles are available (from Mukini) with different tapers (but try not to go here if you don't have to). At least you are doing one and not 4. All tuning becomes moot if you change the air filter, or exhaust, so do what you are going to end up with there, then fine tune the carb in.
	0