BD125-15 BOOM VADER NO FUEL Question!!

[sirmaxwell]

Originally Posted by RedCrowRides

@Lardog Hey man, just glad you got it all done with no issues and it's running good !
I try to help people as much as I can, to pay back for all the help I got when I was new here myself !

And yeah, i agree the first gear with the stock sprockets is basically unusable, it's so low you cant hardly go 5 feet before you need to hit 2nd lol !

This thread got some good posts up since I last checked it--and I think I will use your emmisions delete instructions too--I mean I already know where the stuff is but i meant i will copy the part where you beat it with a bat once it's taken off!!--i just have to stop being lazy and do it, maybe when I do the first oil change (The first oil change AFTER replacing the shipping oil with a good 10w30-40) anytime now--I'm at 150 miles or so now.

I also tried reading the manual which states following the run in procedure needs to have special attention paid to it--then I read the whole damn manual and see zero parts of it on engine break in--the only tidbit is a sticker on my bike's oil tank stating change oil at 300 km (180-190 miles) & don't exceed 50kmh (30mph) during that time. so Im going to take it a little further and maybe try to keep my speeds low until about 360-600 miles, if I can. I already get it up to an indicated 35 mph on the regular, sometimes rarely and briefly up to as much as 40, although I try to not hold anything above a a speedo indicated 33 mph for long during my break in.

Also the service manual is maybe a little confusing to me as to oil change intervals since it states the months and mileage on one page and then lists oil changes on a seperate page i can't tell for sure whether they want oil changes every 2500 or every 600 miles. I think it would be 600 out of the 2 choices to be safe, especially if pushing 8,000 rpm constantly during hot months after break in--& with the friction additives for the wet clutch. So anyways, after break-in, How often should I change my motor oil?

I wanted to add a new question since this thread is on a roll lately. My question is: Why do people reccomend using Conventional Motor Oil during break-in and then people usually say switch to synthetic after break in? Why not just use synthetic from the first start?


1st gear is still pretty useless, heck maybe it's even dangerously slow, after being a ways into my engine break in. Although since getting a little break in done or maybe the crimp just came out of my fuel line my second gear now gets me up to like 17 mph without screaming/pushing it too much

[RedCrowRides]

On the oil question - Synthetic oil is so much more "slipperier" than conventional oil, if you run it during break in, it's going to cause everything to take longer to seat in , because there's no friction, or markedly less friction. The thing with that is, friction "can" be a bad thing, but some parts, like clutch plates, rely on it .Excessive clutch slippage from synthetic oil during new engine break in cancause the plates to not wear in fully or properly, leading to early failure from "cooking the clutch " due to that excessive slippage facilitated by the oh so slickery synth oil. that is the reasoning for the break in on conventional , then going to synth- to protect clutch plates and other bits and allow them to wear in / seat how they should.Once that is accomplished, it's fine to switch to the full synth for longevity's sake .


At least, this was the consensus arrived at on oil types and reasons after many beers were consumed and multiple opinions given here locally, from everyone from know nothings like me, to certified harley and honda mechanics from local dealerships.

[Lardog]

Originally Posted by RedCrowRides

On the oil question - Synthetic oil is so much more "slipperier" than conventional oil, if you run it during break in, it's going to cause everything to take longer to seat in , because there's no friction, or markedly less friction. The thing with that is, friction "can" be a bad thing, but some parts, like clutch plates, rely on it .Excessive clutch slippage from synthetic oil during new engine break in cancause the plates to not wear in fully or properly, leading to early failure from "cooking the clutch " due to that excessive slippage facilitated by the oh so slickery synth oil. that is the reasoning for the break in on conventional , then going to synth- to protect clutch plates and other bits and allow them to wear in / seat how they should.Once that is accomplished, it's fine to switch to the full synth for longevity's sake .


At least, this was the consensus arrived at on oil types and reasons after many beers were consumed and multiple opinions given here locally, from everyone from know nothings like me, to certified harley and honda mechanics from local dealerships.

I totally agree!! I’ve even read for break-in to use conventional automotive oil for break in on your bike. Now, I didn’t go that far by using automotive oil but before I even started my bike up I drained out what was in it and put in some good old Valvoline 10w40 Dino oil.

Sirmaxwell, the instruction for removing the emissions stuff Red created were spot on with my bike so I’m sure you won’t have a problem.