SS Camaro - Track trips, build pics etc.

[Weldangrind]

I'm trying to understand your conclusion; are you saying that you'll probably only run five quarts to keep the crank out of the oil? Thanks for the excellent pics and write-up!

[01SSRedA4]

I figure an idling engine has a quart pumping through it, and maybe at high rpm slightly more. On stock engines its been proven that running 6.5-7q vs the recommend 5.5q fill helps pressure drop on hard launches, Ive been running 7q fills for several years.....and i think I'm going to continue that, I wanted to see what that exactly meant as far as pan level, crank level, and now turbo drain level.

[Weldangrind]

I hadn't considered the volume that would be pumped to the top end. As a matter of fact, I also completely forgot about the oil filter volume. 7 quarts will probably be perfect.

[01SSRedA4]

As you can see 5.5 in the pan is perfect for the crank to clear and the turbo drain to clear.....but factor in filter, top end, and now a turbo and lines, i thinking 7 to 7.5 should be ok. Less critical now that the sump is rearward.

[Weldangrind]

Do you plan to upgrade the truck intake down the road, or are they reported to flow well enough?

[01SSRedA4]

I dont think there is much to gain by swapping it. Boosted air doesn't really care.

[01SSRedA4]

Ok got some more parts in, on the left is a manual boost controller, top right is some -8 ORB AN fittings for the fuel rails, and the bottom right is a weldable 1/8 NPT bung for the trans pan.



PST forged yoke for the 4l80e on the left and the stocker on the right. Im going to swap this onto my existing PST shaft.



My 80e output shaft has an oring, your yoke needs to have a smooth lip to seal on it.





Vacuum block, yes its colorful :jest:



Basically the converter I bought will work with almost any LS flexplate because it has two (6 bolt) bolt patterns on it. So I didn't actually need to buy a flexplate, but I wanted to at minimum use all 6 bolts, where the stock 60e plate thats on the engine is only 3 bolts. This is an aftermarket 80e plate with all 6 holes part number ATP Z-270. The reason you see this and stuff like the manual boost controller, not welding fittings in is because I'm trying to trim expense where I can. This can get out of control with all the little bullshit things that would have to do/buy. Im basically trying to stretch this last bit as far as I can.



This is Chrs1313 dual 450 pumps. I also bought the hotwire harness so installation should be simple.



Aeromotive 13303 fuel pressure regulator, this is -8AN in and out.



Here is the plug for the oil pan. Bought from ICT Billet on ebay.



I took the valve covers off and drilled a hole in them. I also cut and removed some of the baffles.



Installed a -10AN fitting for the breather. Went back after this pic and removed all the baffling, decided it was now useless lets get rid of it.



I did one on each side to go the the catch can.



Pulled the harness off the bracket and trimmed the center metal out. Seems like an easy no weld solution. Once we get a little closer to finished I will probably buy a 90 degree -10 fitting for both covers.

[JerryHawk250]

I'm going to have to stop reading this thread because I can see it's going to cost me a whole lot of money. lol. I got out of racing a couple of years ago. I can tell you this, that 4l80e transmission is just about bullet proof. We have pushed just over 1000 hp and 1100 pounds of torque through it with a 6.0l and twin turbo setup in a 02 chevy pick up. Good choice on cam, that will work perfect with the turbo. We were running 7 qts of oil which seem to be perfect.

[JerryHawk250]

Do you have a good base tune to start with? What compression ratio are you plan on running? How much boost? I could look through my tune data base and see if I have something close to your setup. I've tuned a few 5.3 turbos.

[01SSRedA4]

I think I got the initial VE figured out for a baseline, not sure on a boosted timing table yet, havent gotten that far. Yeah my plan was to review some other setups and see their details. Compression is stock (heads milled 10), boost im shooting for 15-20.

[JerryHawk250]

I'll look and see what I have. You should be able to get 650-700 hp out of it. HPTuners has a good data base too or at least they did. It's been a while since I visit the site.

[JerryHawk250]

I don't see a couple of items I know you're going to need. Are you planning on an intercooler? A pair of efans on the intercooler and methanol injection will help a lot on cooling intake temps at high boost levels. I know more money lol.

[01SSRedA4]

Turbo kit is backordered, it should be on the way at the end of the month, it has a 4" intercooler, as for fans Im going to attempt to move the stock fans to the front of the radiator and reverse polarity so they push. If they dont fit I will come up with a new plan.

[Weldangrind]

I seem to remember reading an article about that in CC many years ago. IIRC, simply reversing polarity does not create pusher fans, because the blades would also need to be flipped. If you can keep a puller setup but need shallower fans, I've read that the Lincoln fans (used with the Mod motor) pull ridiculous CFM, like where small woodland creatures will be pulled in if they're too close. I don't know any of this first hand, BTW.


What is the bung on the trans pan for? Was the forged yoke very spendy?

[01SSRedA4]

Every electric fan Ive used will change direction when you reverse polarity. That being said if the blade curves were engineered to pull, they may not effectively push, but there is no doubt they will spin in reverse. Again, I will need to bench test them and see if i can determine if their output in reverse will be sufficient. Thats down the road though. The bung in the trans pan will be for an aftermarket temp sensor. Forged yoke was $125ish.