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Old 03-13-2020, 06:05 PM   #61
Chrisguga   Chrisguga is offline
 
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Originally Posted by jeffrey View Post
If your bike don't have rubber washers on the plastics mounting bolts you might want to add them. They will help with the vibrations and keep them from cracking.
Hmm.. good tip. These are the first plastics I’ve ever removed on a bike so I didn’t know such a thing existed. Thank you. I’ll look into those.


 
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Old 03-13-2020, 06:33 PM   #62
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Getting the jetting sorted out will help a lot, but give the motor a couple hundred miles to wake up as well. You would be surprised at how big of an impact the lack of ring sealing has on the power, especially at higher RPM. Take it out for some random rides and rack up some miles on it.

Those risers you bought are similar to the ones I used on my Hawk, they will make a big difference in your ergos. Just make sure the cables and lines don't get too tight lock to lock, and that you clear the tank.

Do yourself a favor with the fuel tank and add a couple ounces of MMO to a tank once in a while. Does a good job of coating the tank and preventing rust as well as lubricating the throttle slide and needle and needle jet.
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Old 03-13-2020, 08:34 PM   #63
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffrey View Post
If your bike don't have rubber washers on the plastics mounting bolts you might want to add them. They will help with the vibrations and keep them from cracking.
That's what I did. Rubber washers for faucets in the plumbing section at Lowe's work perfect.
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Old 03-16-2020, 08:21 PM   #64
Chrisguga   Chrisguga is offline
 
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So, I am here to eat my crow, get laughed at, etc...

It turns out I’ve had my choke on the whole time I’ve been complaining about not being able to get the bike past 6k rpm. It has no effect at idle so I figured maybe it didn’t work it and I just randomly left it on choke while I was fooling with other things.

I took it on my first hour long ride and randomly pushed the choke in the other direction and it started pulling rpm all the way to redline and I went from holding up traffic in a 55 mph zone to easily running a true 65mph and keeping up.

I installed the lift on my new truck myself, rebuilt my 10,000 pound boat trailer with all new hubs, bearings, disc brake to drum brake conversion, new leaf springs, surge brakes to electric over hydraulic conversion, installed new flooring in my house, etc etc etc... but screwed up the choke position on a freaking motorcycle.

So anyway, that was a huge improvement, but now after an hour long ride I really want to lower the foot pegs. That’s my next task. Anyone have any suggestions?



Last edited by Chrisguga; 03-16-2020 at 08:54 PM.
 
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Old 03-16-2020, 10:33 PM   #65
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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Lol, been there done that on my Hawk. I accidentally push the lever on half choke. Had me scratching my head trying figure out what I messed up.
I think lowering the pegs could be possible. I'll need to look at that .
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Old 03-17-2020, 07:39 AM   #66
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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Okay, I was looking at the lowering the pegs. It should be easy. You could make an adapter plate with a piece of flat bar to make the mount lower. Depending on how much adjustment you have in the shift linkage, you might have to push it a little forward too. I may do it to get a little more leg room.
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2004 Honda ST 1300
2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold)
Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster
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Old 03-17-2020, 12:52 PM   #67
Chrisguga   Chrisguga is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryHawk250 View Post
Okay, I was looking at the lowering the pegs. It should be easy. You could make an adapter plate with a piece of flat bar to make the mount lower. Depending on how much adjustment you have in the shift linkage, you might have to push it a little forward too. I may do it to get a little more leg room.
I looked at it this morning too and I worry that the exhaust may be in the way on the right side. Either way, I definitely want to adjust the brake pedal down a little as it feels a bit high. The clutch feels like it’s in a good position though.

Oh, and the oil cooler instructions are 100% in Chinese. Any tips or tricks or instructions on that install? I plan to tackle that tonight along with a few other things.

Also, I bought the grips you recommended. I can barely fit them over the bar ends, let alone the grips. Did you hear them with a heat gun or use hand sanitizer to lube them up to get them on?


 
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Old 03-17-2020, 01:45 PM   #68
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisguga View Post
I looked at it this morning too and I worry that the exhaust may be in the way on the right side. Either way, I definitely want to adjust the brake pedal down a little as it feels a bit high. The clutch feels like it’s in a good position though.

Oh, and the oil cooler instructions are 100% in Chinese. Any tips or tricks or instructions on that install? I plan to tackle that tonight along with a few other things.

Also, I bought the grips you recommended. I can barely fit them over the bar ends, let alone the grips. Did you hear them with a heat gun or use hand sanitizer to lube them up to get them on?
Yeah the brake side would be a little close to the exhaust. Maybe the adapter plate could be offset enough to miss the exhaust. I'm not in front of my bike right now so i'll look at it when i get home.

Easy to set up. Put the line with the filter to the port that goes to the center of the adapter. This is a suction line so you want to catch any metal shavings that could of been left behind in the cooler.

As far as the grips i put a light coat of dawn liquid soap and slid right on.
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Old 03-18-2020, 01:11 AM   #69
Chrisguga   Chrisguga is offline
 
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The oil cooler is 95% installed. I plan to run to Lowe’s tomorrow to get some lock washers to secure the bolts holding the cooler to the frame instead of just using the regular washers and nuts the kit came with, but it’s fully functional otherwise and full of oil.

Jerry, I noticed you rotated your horn up and out of the way so I did the same.

Oh, and here’s my spark plug after 135 miles. It looks pretty good considering how rich I ran it for a while, imo.


 
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Old 03-18-2020, 07:21 AM   #70
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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Looks good. If you look at the video you will also noticed i removed the Secondary Air injection too. I made a block off plate out of some 1/8" aluminum i had laying around. Just remember to cap off the vacuum nipple at the intake manifold.
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2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S
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2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold)
Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster
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Old 03-18-2020, 06:15 PM   #71
Chrisguga   Chrisguga is offline
 
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Tonight I gapped the NGK plug, installed the tank protector, am currently adjusting the valves (what a pain!), and might start on rejetting the carb.

Jerry, you went with a 108 main. Did you change the pilot or adjust the needle at all?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 0EA6B083-0407-4723-B041-09C6D2D56E6E.jpg (20.3 KB, 158 views)



Last edited by Chrisguga; 03-18-2020 at 08:13 PM.
 
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Old 03-18-2020, 10:37 PM   #72
Chrisguga   Chrisguga is offline
 
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Valves are done.

But, in addition to the needle and pilot jet questions, anyone know where this tiny o-ring goes? It fell out while I was drilling the idle adjustment screw and I can’t figure out where it came from.

Thanks!
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Last edited by Chrisguga; 03-19-2020 at 06:54 AM.
 
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Old 03-19-2020, 03:08 AM   #73
franque   franque is offline
 
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Is there one on the air-idle mixture screw? There should be a spring, a washer, and then an o-ring. Otherwise the jet that's on the float bowl looks like it might be missing it's o-ring.


 
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Old 03-19-2020, 07:37 AM   #74
Chrisguga   Chrisguga is offline
 
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Here are more angles of the carb. I need to figure out where this o-ring Goes so I can have the bike back together by tonight. I hope to have it ready to ride so I can take it out of town this weekend and get a few hundred more miles on it.


 
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Old 03-19-2020, 07:55 AM   #75
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisguga View Post
Tonight I gapped the NGK plug, installed the tank protector, am currently adjusting the valves (what a pain!), and might start on rejetting the carb.

Jerry, you went with a 108 main. Did you change the pilot or adjust the needle at all?
Tank protector looks good. I almost got the same one. If you didn't remove the cat i would go with the 105. leave the stock pilot in and needle on the middle slot.
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2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S
2004 Honda ST 1300
2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold)
Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster
2016 Cazador180 XL
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