OMG what have we done............??? }motorhome{

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by TeamCheap

From what I have seen the 30AMP service is 10-2 wiring and the 50AMP would be 10-3.

10 gauge wire can pull 30 amps max.

So in order to do it right I'd have to change to 10-3 wires to run the power properly.

10-2 just has black(hot-power)/ white(common-return) and ground

10-3 has black(hot-power) / red(hot-power) / white(common-return) and ground

All that means is that if you combine the two hots (red and black), you get 220. If you have no need for 220, then just run one leg to the 30 amp service. Pick either the red or the black along with the white, and you're done.

[SpudRider]

This is a little off topic, but how did you get the HF, 25%-off coupon, TC? I need to pick up a couple of items at Harbor Freight, but I don't have any current coupons for this month. :(

Spud

[TeamCheap]

The HF 25% off coupons typically come out for a one day only event like thanksgiving or newyears.I dont have one right now, actually after looking I dont have many HF coupons right now but they'll come back.
I doubt the generators can be bought with those 25% off coupons but I suspect that generator will go on sale again soon enough.

The roof AC needs the power to run the rest is just small appliances except maybe the fridge but that should be a LP/electric setup.

I can wire it up but just didnt want to get into it that much but I do have all winter and spring so I may still do it.

Right now I just want to get the exhaust manifold back on and the new plugs/wire set on, I already have the right side plugs in.
Someone must have used anti-seize because they came right out.The color looked good on them with a tan color.

It looks like someone was doing some work on it all over as the starter looks like new as well as many other things.

In my reading on these P30 motohomes I found that the heat off the exhaust manifolds is somewhat trapped and will cause problems to the point that people run cooling duct work near there and reccomend idling the engine after a hard run to allow for it to cool down.
I have to chase the threads in the block or I risk snapping a bolt in the rusty/crusty holes as I put the manifold back on even though I will be using ant-seize.

[Weldangrind]

Do you have a cleaning / bottoming tap for that purpose? That would be better than a conventional tap, because you don't want to cut new threads.

Does the rad have an electric fan? If not, could you install one? If it does, you could also install a helper "pusher" fan on the front of the rad, like the type found in the old Toyota Tercel. They're nearly free in the boneyard.

With the fan on a toggle, you could switch it on any time you like, to further cool down the motor and area. A temp gauge is an excellent investment, if you don't already have one.

[TeamCheap]

I need a cleaning tap because yeah I dont want to cut new threads I didnt see any at performance tool yesterday.

The exhaust mainfolds are what get hot and cause problems so some people run the duct work near them to force cooler air over them or I could get some nice new ceramic headers.I like to do that and have electric fans that run on for about 10 minutes after the MH is shut down.

[TeamCheap]

Got the exhuast manifold back on and its quiet.......for now...we'll have to see if it holds up.

Did all the spark plugs and spark plug wires but I think one wire is off most likely the last one, front left that was a real bugger to get out then back in I think the heat shield is stopping the wire boot from going all the way on.
A recheck of all the spark plug wires sunday should take care of that.

Messed with the AC power cord ....put new plug end on and cut out the couple of serious abrasion spots to it and the AC plugs work when its plugged in to house current but no go on the fridge but we really want to replace anyway so we need a reason.

[katoranger]

I believe the fridge works off the power convertor. There may be an issue there. Does it charge the house batteries?

[TeamCheap]

I havnt got to deep into it but there is a switch for either gas/dc or AC, I'll test the outlet the fridge is plugged into and verify AC power and go from there.

It was getting late today and we had been out there most of the day.

I still have to secure the power cord junction box but atleast I can plug it in and start checking all that stuff out So when we get a generator that half will be ready.

We plan to go for a short run in it sunday up to my sisters house since my wife hasnt even ridden in it yet.Atleast we have a tempurary plate and insurance.

[Weldangrind]

Maybe the fridge will work on gas for now. Do you have a propane tank you can use for testing?

Good luck on the maiden voyage.

[SpudRider]

X2! I hope you have an enjoyable, trouble-free excursion!

Spud

[TeamCheap]

The propane tank is full and when I turn the fridge to DC/gas I can hear it click like its trying to start but I know the main gas valve is off.

The fridge is pretty rough and we may still be able to buy one we seen for $200 when we went and looked at his generator, it was a newer very clean nice unit.
The seem to go for around $2500 brand new.

I havnt tested the gas side of things yet I was hoping to get the AC power set first.

I want to get smoke/fire and gas detectors installed and operational before going into the gas side.

[Weldangrind]

An excellent plan! I recommend that you choose smoke alarms with a cancel feature.

[TeamCheap]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

An excellent plan! I recommend that you choose smoke alarms with a cancel feature.

I'll look for them.

We're getting ready to run it up to my sisters house about 30 miles away, I dont expect any real problems since I did drive it home from ionia about 120 miles away.

I found the plug wire that was off it was the last one we did and it was a pain.

It's much quieter now.

[katoranger]

$200 on a used fridge is a good buy.

[Weldangrind]

Would it help to clearance the heat shield for better plug access?