02-11-2019, 01:37 PM
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#61 | |
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 83
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It's definitely DOT approved, as you can see on the steering stem. It was registered with the State of Wisconsin by my dealer when I bought it. Buccaneer |
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02-11-2019, 07:55 PM
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#62 |
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: RDU, NC
Posts: 677
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Hey Buck, where did you get those Italjet stickers? I want a pair for mine!
Charles. |
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02-12-2019, 11:25 PM
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#63 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 83
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I got them from Hungary: http://onlinedekor.hu/scooter-sticke...jet-decal.html I chose the options "Color 1: Unfilled, no color," and "Color 2: Dark grey." The resulting sticker is just the outline text, with nothing covering the gas tank in the blank areas. Really good quality, and matches the SSR stickers well. Next, you'll need an Italjet key fob to admire as you ride around! "Eee-tal-jet" Buc Last edited by Buccaneer; 02-20-2019 at 09:41 AM. |
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02-13-2019, 10:09 AM
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#64 |
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: RDU, NC
Posts: 677
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Argh you're killing me posting awesome stuff without links where to buy it!
 Charles. |
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02-13-2019, 06:17 PM
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#65 |
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: RDU, NC
Posts: 677
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I got my Buccaneer today!
First off, it ran great. I rode it home 60 some miles all on backroads. I had a blast until I caught the beginnings of rush hour traffic. I had it up to 70 indicated once or twice, but I mostly took it easy on the bike. First things first, I have two small problems. One is this unfortunateness: The other side had stress cracks all around the bolt. Looks like both sides were over-tightened, cracking the plastic. The vibration from riding it home broke the cracked area on the left side. The second is the front brakes pulse. I don't know if it's because the bike is new, the rotor is warped, or the pads are defective. I'm going to put a dial indicator on the rotor and see what's what. Everything else was fine. Bike ran great and when I stopped for gas the employees came out and commented on how great it looked! So, that's a positive. One other thing. I cannot live with the brake lever. It's a huge reach. I need an adjustable lever for this bike. I'm going to take it off and take a pic of it so I can compare and see if there are any adjustable pitbike levers that match. Charles. |
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02-13-2019, 06:26 PM
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#66 |
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: RDU, NC
Posts: 677
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Also both of my bar ends were loose, and the right one almost fell out during the ride.
I don't think this is an SSR problem, I think it's more likely some 16 year old kid set the bike up. Charles. |
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02-13-2019, 07:02 PM
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#67 |
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: RDU, NC
Posts: 677
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I had my phone mounted to the handlebars and my GPS app running, and the Buccaneer's speedometer was 4mph off at 65mph. Meaning, when the speedometer shows 65mph, my actual speed was 61mph. This is a 6.15% error. My 2017 Yamaha SCR950's speedometer has a 5% error, which is 4mph at 80mph. (when the speedo reads 80mph I'm actually doing 76mph). So it's relatively in-line with the speedo error from a japanese bike. However, this means if the top speed is 83 indicated, then the real top speed is 78mph.
I wonder... the speedometer is a common unit on eBay. Is there a way to reprogram it for a more accurate speed, I wonder? Also, I didn't have any problems with a bouncy or weird tachometer needle. It operated smoothly and perfectly, as it should. I was cruising at 60-65 indicated and the bike felt fine. 6000rpm had a lot of vibration at first, and then the more I rode it the more it smoothed out. I don't find this bike to be a bad vibrator at all. Maybe I'm used to more vibratey vintage bikes, but I found this to be largely smooth and comfortable. It feels a little choked on the top end, like it cannot breathe enough. That might be due to the fact it had 1 mile on it, but it could also be that the bike needs the catalytic converter removed. I do plan on such a mod in the future, but not until I put some break-in miles on it. I had the parts department fighting to get me a service manual, but no such thing exists. HOWEVER, she did end up getting me an EFI troubleshooting manual, which was largely what I needed a service manual for. Motor repairs, clutch replacement, and such things can likely be handled via a Virago 250 manual. But the EFI system, trouble codes, and whatnot I would need a real SSR manual for. I tried to upload the PDF attached to this message, but unfortunately the forum doesn't allow more than 19kb for a PDF file. So if you want it email me privately (my username @ gmail.com) and I'll send it your way. So far I'm really happy with the bike. I only put 60 some miles on it so far, and I need to really ride it when I'm not bundled in several layers with a backpack and battery pack for my heated vest and fighting rush hour traffic and all. I am quite stoked though. Power seems good, vibrations are very livable, and the handling was great. Seat was also quite comfortable for me. Charles. |
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02-13-2019, 08:55 PM
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#68 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 83
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Charles, Great first report! I do have instructions for calibrating the speedometer (that I had to work out from garbled instructions online). I'll look for them and post them here. I'm glad your tachometer needle doesn't bounce. Mine got worse over time. I have another complaint about mine: if I rev the motor above 8000 rpm as I do sometimes when accelerating, it will begin reading about 1000 rpm too low. I can tell this because the relationship between mph and rpm in top gear changes. To correct the problem I have to shut down the motor. The dealer has been informed. I would appreciate the pdf ECU manual and will shoot you an email to get it. However, the flashing dash codes for the ECU are given in a posting on this site, by Spudrider, here: http://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=15675. I'll also post the source of the Italjet key fob in a moment, when I find it. By the way, I religiously followed the break in instructions. You're missing a lot of miserable 50 mph (or was it less??) travel by ignoring them. (Good luck.) Congratulations, Italjet owner! Buc Last edited by Buccaneer; 02-20-2019 at 09:40 AM. |
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02-13-2019, 09:12 PM
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#69 |
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 83
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Where to get an Italjet key fob
I searched for a long time for a key fob, with no luck, even in Europe.
But an etsy vendor, TheKeyChainStore, made me two for $12 or so, from the attached graphic I located on the net. https://www.etsy.com/shop/TheKeyChai..._shop_redirect Very nice quality. (If I did it again I might try to increase the color saturation of the graphic, though in some sense this seems to be the official Italjet palette.) I recommend the fob with the leather flap, since that avoids scratching anything on the bike when the logo is facing up. I posted a png version of the logo. I don't recall what the vendor needed. I also have pdf and eps if you need one of those. Buc Last edited by Buccaneer; 02-20-2019 at 09:40 AM. |
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02-13-2019, 10:09 PM
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#70 |
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 83
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Calibrating the speedometer
Recalibration and other parameter settings for the Buccaneer speedometer
1. To get into the setup menu, first turn the key off, press and hold the button on the back and then turn the key on. Keep pressing until you see "CCC---" (that is three C's followed by three dashes) on the screen. This is called Interface 1. 2. Change the displayed code "CCC---" to "CCC123", the programming passcode. Use a short press to increase the value of a digit, and a long press to advance to the next digit. These are hex numbers, so "C" is the hex "digit" for decimal 12. After the code is entered, you are at the frequency value setting interface (interface 2). 3. Depending on the initial set up you will see one or another hexidecimal number that expresses the calibration factor. For example F03.4 corresponds to the decimal number 3843.25. (Note that not all online converters are set up to handle fractional hex numbers, since hex is mainly used in an integer context by programmers. One that does do the conversion is https://www.mathsisfun.com/binary-de...converter.html .) 4. You need to enter the correct hexidecimal value to calibrate the speedometer.The higher the number, the slower the actual readout is on the speedo. You should just adjust up or down by the proportional error you observe. If your speedometer readout were 4 percent high, and you observed a setting of F03.4, you would convert the hex to decimal 3843.25, divide that by 0.96, getting 4003.385, and use the mentioned website to convert that to hex FA3.6, approximately, which you would then enter. You use the same method for incrementing and advancing across digits as described earlier. 5. The hex value is actually a frequency of pulses per kilometer generated by the vehicle speed sensor. So another way to go is to calculate that frequency. If a wheel generates six pulses per rotation (as I think the Buccaneer does), and the circumference is measured as 61 3/8 inches, for example, then the required frequency is F08.D [ ~= 6 x 39370.1/ 61.375 = 3848.808, converted to hex, where 39370.1 is the the number of inches in a kilometer]. You would then enter F08.D. 6. Once you are done programming give a long press on the button to save and exit. 7. There are also other settings revealed on interface 2. "y2" means two cylinders. You can increment this to 3 or 4, but don't do it. There is a warning that you cannot reset the value to one cylinder once you change the setting, and I would worry about getting back to "2." To the right of the "y2" is a setting of "1" or "5", which is said to mean the fuel sensor is either 2 wires or 3 wires. Really. So I would avoid changing any of that hoodoo too. [EDIT: I'm rethinking a paragraph of explanation that I had here, after measuring my own wheel, and noting the actual calibration value in the Buccaneer's speedometer, which is F05.7. I'm reconsidering the calculation in paragraph 5, and will update later. The paragraph 4 method is fine.] It would be hard to go wrong with the simple proportional readjustment method, converting between hex and decimal as described. I suppose I like little optimism in my speedometer, after all. Buc Last edited by Buccaneer; 02-20-2019 at 09:40 AM. |
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02-13-2019, 10:23 PM
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#71 |
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: RDU, NC
Posts: 677
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My philosophy with breaking in a motor is to break it in relatively hard. I’ve followed the break in procedure on other bikes and it doesn’t make any noticeable difference. However the physics of a hard break in makes sense to me. You want the rings to seat and wear in. With middling rpms there’s never a huge amount of pressure to force those rings against th cylinder walls. Hard break ins are supposed to make for a motor with better compression.
Now I’m not running it like I would if it were fully broken in. Only about 75%. But I’m not really babying it either. I’ve had very good luck using this method in the past so I’m not going to switch up now. Basically I’m just going to ride it and have fun, but stay off of any kind of interstate until it is past the break in period. No full throttle max rpm until after the first service. My goal with this bike is to run the miles out of the warranty before the time runs out. So, 12k miles in a year. If something is going to break i want to know... but man this motor is sweet. I don’t think it will. The vibration is FAR less than I expected. Way smoother than most of of my vintage bikes. The motor just feels like a gem. Charles. |
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02-13-2019, 10:28 PM
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#72 | ||||
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 83
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Buc Last edited by Buccaneer; 02-20-2019 at 09:39 AM. |
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02-13-2019, 10:34 PM
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#73 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 83
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Quote:
Your break in method is widely used. I am ambivalent about it, and decided to go with the engineer's recommendation this time, in part because I worried that the engine might have looser tolerances than more modern ones. But now I doubt that: it seems more and more like a Yamaha. It took a longer trip before the vibrations got to my hands. Maybe 200 miles. But it made them quite numb. I don't usually experience this. Buc Last edited by Buccaneer; 02-20-2019 at 09:39 AM. |
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02-14-2019, 01:22 AM
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#74 |
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: RDU, NC
Posts: 677
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Interesting you say it's more and more like a yamaha. The right hand mirror is reverse threaded, so Yamaha mirrors will bolt right on. That said, I actually really like the mirrors it comes with. I like that they can be fine-tune adjusted without loosening bolts, and that they don't vibrate. Not crazy about the plastic head, but I'll live with it.
The tools aren't great. The 17mm wrench spread and slipped on the mirror mount. So I'll be replacing all of those with better tools. There is no 8mm, which I found a problem because I needed to adjust the clutch lever angle. Had to suffer with it for 60-some miles until I got home. My relays are also not mounted to anything. I didn't even realize there were brackets under there for the relays. I'm about to go back out to the garage and check! The lever bothers me because it's a long reach, and all of the braking power is in the first quarter inch of pull. If the lever was about halfway through its stroke, there would be a lot more control and pressure available, just because of hand positioning. I had this same problem with my 2017 SCR950 though. For that bike, an adjustable lever from an XSR700 bolted right on. This Buccaneer is going to have me searching, though. Charles. |
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02-14-2019, 01:46 AM
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#75 |
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: RDU, NC
Posts: 677
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I took the front brake lever off, and it's easy to see why the levers have play up and down. There are no bushings! The aluminum lever pivots directly on the steel bolt. Normally there is a bronze bushing inside a lever, to prevent them from quickly wearing out. These levers have no bushing, and even worse, there was ZERO grease on the pivot. I suggest at the minimum, removing the levers and greasing the pivot.
I've got it out now to try and match it to levers on eBay. Looks similar to a GSXR lever, but it's thinner. The part number on the bottom, 303kk13017, doesn't appear to match to anything on Google. Charles |
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