New Hawk, new adventures.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by OneLeggedRider

I think you'll be pleasantly surprised when you go to the lighter fork oil. I never rode the bike before changing the oil and adding spacers, but I had watched several videos of the forks bottoming out. And my original plan was to go with 15w, but from owning several Hondas and working in the shops I knew they used ATF for years in their dirtbike forks. So a quick internet search to find out the weight of ATF, and another to find out the weight of Polaris/Victory fork oil (because that's the nearest Dealership and the weight isn't specified on the bottle) told me both were 7.5w.

I am very happy with the rebound characteristics of the forks now, and they get tested daily with all the washboard and potholes on these dirt roads and riding the whoops out at the Reclaim. And the bike doesn't feel springy or bouncy at all, it's quite stable infact. Now if I just add some preload to the monoshock I think I'll be done with the suspension.

Also with me being 6'2" and 265lbs at the moment we are very similar in size when it comes to suspension tuning.

That's what I've been using. ATF with the pre-load spacers seems to be perfect for me. I'll eventually replace the rear shock with a 315 mm shock like yours and Megadans. The spring on mine has sprung. on the rear. It's probably 2" lower than when it was new. I'm a little on the lighter side though @ 5'11" 175lbs. after a big meal. lol

[OneLeggedRider]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

That's what I've been using. ATF with the pre-load spacers seems to be perfect for me. I'll eventually replace the rear shock with a 315 mm shock like yours and Megadans. The spring on mine has sprung. on the rear. It's probably 2" lower than when it was new. I'm a little on the lighter side though @ 5'11" 175lbs. after a big meal. lol

Sweet Jebus you're gettin fat lol. I kept my stock shock because I'm thinking about building another go cart, the last one didn't have any suspension and it was rough on the spine.

I strongly considered going to the gas station and picking up a couple quarts of ATF, and I'm sure it would have worked well in these simple forks. But I don't plan on taking them off or apart again so I went with specific fork oil. Truth be told I worked at the Polaris/Victory dealership in question as a tech and they will only warranty their machines if you buy their expensive fluids and oils. I'm sure there's nothing special about them other than the purple coloring they add.

But anywho, I think I'll start recommending ATF to folks on the fb groups just because it's so cheap and easy to find ($16 for the Polaris/Victory fork oil but the pretty purple color was nice lol).

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by OneLeggedRider

I think you'll be pleasantly surprised when you go to the lighter fork oil. I never rode the bike before changing the oil and adding spacers, but I had watched several videos of the forks bottoming out. And my original plan was to go with 15w, but from owning several Hondas and working in the shops I knew they used ATF for years in their dirtbike forks. So a quick internet search to find out the weight of ATF, and another to find out the weight of Polaris/Victory fork oil (because that's the nearest Dealership and the weight isn't specified on the bottle) told me both were 7.5w.

I am very happy with the rebound characteristics of the forks now, and they get tested daily with all the washboard and potholes on these dirt roads and riding the whoops out at the Reclaim. And the bike doesn't feel springy or bouncy at all, it's quite stable infact. Now if I just add some preload to the monoshock I think I'll be done with the suspension.

Also with me being 6'2" and 265lbs at the moment we are very similar in size when it comes to suspension tuning.

Originally Posted by OneLeggedRider

Truth be told I worked at the Polaris/Victory dealership in question as a tech and they will only warranty their machines if you buy their expensive fluids and oils. I'm sure there's nothing special about them other than the purple coloring they add.

There are two reasons I use fork specific oil. Having spent time doing suspension tuning you learn a few things about fluids in dampers and how they behave. The biggest key difference is the level of anti-foaming is higher and more stable in fork oils over ATF, especially at higher temps. Most people will probably never push these bikes hard enough for that to make a difference, but that is part of what makes them special. They are also designed to have better lubrication properties for the seals and bushings, but in that regard I wouldn't make it as a claim to fame considering ATF was used by Honda from the factory for many years and the forks in those bikes lasted a very long time without wearing out.

The other, and main, reason I like using fork oil is the specified weight on the bottle. Not all ATFs are created equal and some are lighter or heavier than others (some might be 10 weight, others 5, depending on brand and type). The same is actually true between fork oils, which is why sticking with the same brand is so important. Maxima 10wt might actually be a little heavier/lighter than PJ1 10wt for example. The specified weight of the oil is useful in determing what direction to go when trying to dial in/out certain behaviors in the damper.

My forks having the valves installed also means that the weight of the fork oil only determines the rebound and partially the low speed compression behavior since those are fixed orifice hole sizes. The 15wt I am currently using is actually well controlled for road use, but is just a little too slow for rebound when things get bumpy, hence the desire to go lighter. The fluid numbers give me a point of reference for adjusting said tuning.

One nice thing about the Hawk in particular is that it uses just the right amount of fluid that I can save money by buying a half liter bottle of fork oil. That also means I use most of the bottle and don't have a bunch of half full bottles sitting around.

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

That's what I've been using. ATF with the pre-load spacers seems to be perfect for me. I'll eventually replace the rear shock with a 315 mm shock like yours and Megadans. The spring on mine has sprung. on the rear. It's probably 2" lower than when it was new. I'm a little on the lighter side though @ 5'11" 175lbs. after a big meal. lol

While I was digging around looking for the GY200 rotors I ran across this. for $60. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/TDPR...a-a49d4cd2bfea The only thing that shock doesn't offer is adjustable damping, but it does have a single rate spring and preload adjustment. If I remember my measurements correctly it should mount up without spacers. If it will last a long time is a different question.

I honestly think it is worth the extra money to get the shocks with the adjustable damping. It may not have a lot of fine tuning to it, but it is nice being able to stiffen or loosen up the damping.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Megadan

While I was digging around looking for the GY200 rotors I ran across this. for $60. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/TDPR...a-a49d4cd2bfea The only thing that shock doesn't offer is adjustable damping, but it does have a single rate spring and preload adjustment. If I remember my measurements correctly it should mount up without spacers. If it will last a long time is a different question.

I honestly think it is worth the extra money to get the shocks with the adjustable damping. It may not have a lot of fine tuning to it, but it is nice being able to stiffen or loosen up the damping.

This is one I have on my wish list. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Off-...4bc62e0eMuIWip

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

This is one I have on my wish list. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Off-...4bc62e0eMuIWip

$16 with $43 shipping lol, aka 59 bucks. Hopefully it works out well for you when you get it.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Megadan

$16 with $43 shipping lol, aka 59 bucks. Hopefully it works out well for you when you get it.

yeah, I know I was excited until I saw the shipping. lol But still not a bad price.

[Megadan]

So while I wait in limbo for parts to arrive I am spending way too much time looking at parts...

I stumbled into these and I am thinking about giving them a try. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/FX-C...f2d92e0eyouC21

Or this slightly cheaper set with allen heads on the adjusters.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mgoo...f2d92e0eyouC21

It would be kind of nice to be able to dial in a bit more preload when I have carrying a bunch of weight in my pack, or tail bag.

[JerryHawk250]

Good find! I would do the allen head ones. Less chance of boggering up. I hate anything that requires a flat screw driver. lol

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

Good find! I would do the allen head ones. Less chance of boggering up. I hate anything that requires a flat screw driver. lol

The top ones I linked are hex head adjusters, probably 10mm. Allens would make carrying an adjutment tool a lot easier though. an L allen takes up very little space.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Megadan

The top ones I linked are hex head adjusters, probably 10mm. Allens would make carrying an adjutment tool a lot easier though. an L allen takes up very little space.

It sure is. Man, how did I miss that? I looked at second picture and saw slot head.

[Kivi]

Nice find! I searched for adjusters for china USD forks, but got 0 results.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

It sure is. Man, how did I miss that? I looked at second picture and saw slot head.

I think it is just a stock picture because if you look through both types they each have one. The other link is a red pair I believe.

Originally Posted by Kivi

Nice find! I searched for adjusters for china USD forks, but got 0 results.

I don't know if they will work or not yet, but I suspect they will. By looks everything seems to be correct. They did have a bunch of other options. I might be able to find something for the USD forks, but then it would depend on the type of USD forks in question. Some are just regular old dampening rods turned upside down, others are actual cartridges.

[pete]

wonder how high they are....
usually not a lot of space between the fork and handle bars..
if the bars go across them it could make adjusting hard with
out removing the bars...

but all still easyer than making spacers..


..

[Megadan]

So, I have still been experiencing some odd running issues with my Hawk. I have changed the main jet between 120 and 125 a million times, played with the needle, my idle will be good one moment and strange the next. Sometimes it would start right up, others it would immediately stall.

So, I decided I have had enough and tore it down to every individual component and then set it in my heated ultrasonic cleaner in regular distilled water for 20 minutes.

As I put it back together I was inspecting every part closely and then made a discovery on my float needle. It had a gouge in it... That would explain quite a bit if it wasn't seating fully and the bowl level was constantly fluctuating. It never overflowed though, so it couldn't have been a big leak.

I stole the one from my stock carb and made sure it was good, threw it all back together, set my float height, and then started from scratch dialing in my carb.

With 80 degree air temp and 60% humidity I ended up with the 45 pilot, Mixture 2 1/4 turns out, needle in the 3rd notch, and a 125 main. The 4th notch is way too rich with the 125 main, and the second actually works, but you can feel it is a tad lean.

She pulls WAY stronger than she did before through the whole throttle sweep and my idle is rock solid steady. Starts right up too without cutting out. I do wish I could try a 48 pilot jet, but I can live with my mixture a quarter past 2 turns. No hesitation at light throttle, so it's not that lean.

Gotta love itty bitty little things that can make your life hell.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by pete

wonder how high they are....
usually not a lot of space between the fork and handle bars..
if the bars go across them it could make adjusting hard with
out removing the bars...

but all still easyer than making spacers..


..

The Hawk bars are positioned far enough back on the upper clamp that they shouldn't hit anything. In my case, I have all the room in the world with my risers.