Ignition Problems

molypod · 11-12-2006, 02:21 PM

My Bike won't start now using the Start Switch. It does Start by Kicking or by the Remote control
but once started it won't turn off. The kill switch won't work and neither does turning the key off. I have to choke it to kill the engine.

What I did yesterday was pull Carb out to do the needle adjustment and it sure made a difference; it starts great now First Kick or using the Remote and idles immediately.

I just can't use the start switch or shut down the engine 8O

I've gone over all the wire connection and everything seems OK.

Any ideas?

Molypod

dlunt · 11-12-2006, 05:03 PM

Start your bike and turn the switch off. Then start wiggling wires on the switch, handlebars and behind the headlight and work your way back to the engine. You may get lucky and find which one is loose or broke and the engine will stop when you wiggle it.

(disclaimer- engine and exhaust will be hot when you get to the wires underneath. :wink: )

gyjoe · 11-12-2006, 05:34 PM

I had a problem with a dead starter button when I first got mine. The connector (in the wiring bundle behind the headlight) had disengaged, so I snapped it back together, tucked it back into place, tried again, and nothing. I checked the connector a second time and found it had disengaged again. The release tabs on these connectors are easy to press and therefore release very easily and mine had apparently done so twice just by pressing against the other connectors that were bunched together. I went through and taped the male to the female connectors with electrical tape, and haven't had a problem since.

molypod · 11-12-2006, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gyjoe

I had a problem with a dead starter button when I first got mine. The connector (in the wiring bundle behind the headlight) had disengaged.

That was what had happened pertaining to my start switch and I did get it to Start with the switch. Next was Stopping the engine. More starts more wiggling and I found that under the seat above the battery box is a Block with what looks like the most secure connections. Well I wiggled those ones and Voila!
All back to normal. Well atleast these bikes give me something to do when it rains

I certainly endorse the Carb Clip adjustment and a tweak with the idle mixture screw. baby idles at start up at 1800RPM. Now Hopefully when I get back home from work later this week the rain will have stopped or else its off the the Store for rain gear!

Molypod

CathastrophiX · 11-13-2006, 02:56 AM

On a rainy day i took apart all connectors, and put a little grease in them before connecting them again. I have done that with my ATV before and I think it prevents moisture related problems for the future.

ob1 · 11-13-2006, 08:00 AM

The kill switch grounds one of the wires to the CDI box, stopping spark. Find that wire, and check the physical connection to the frame. Then check that wire and and connections back to the CDI.

The starter switch doesnt actually start the engine. It actuates a solenoid that engages the high amp power to the starter motor. Find the solenoid, and contact the 2 large cable connections with a screwdriver. If the engine doesnt turn over, you have a bad starter or bad wiring/connections or a dead battery. If it does start, your problem is in the low amp side of the circuit.

The starter switch generally applies 12v+ to the solenoid. Find out which small wire at the solenoid is connected to ground, then put a test light/multimeter on the other, and hit the starter switch, you should see 12V. If you do, bad solenoid. If you dont, start tracing the wiring back, looking for that 12v+ when you hit the button.

molypod · 11-13-2006, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ob1

The kill switch grounds one of the wires to the CDI box, stopping spark. Find that wire, and check the physical connection to the frame. Then check that wire and and connections back to the CDI.

thanks ob1,
Does the key switch also route the same way?
The electrical side of things I am not so good at.
I know the CDI is on the left side beside the Solenoid? The block I wiggled that eventually did turn the bike off is under the seat on the other side just above the battery box.
wiring diagram any one? Still waiting for my Manual to come in the mail :(

Molypod

ob1 · 11-13-2006, 04:56 PM

The key switch may have it's own ground. Does your bike have a kill button? Does it work while the key doesnt? If so, the key switch has it's own ground, check that ground, and the wiring back to the CDI.

Dielectric grease is good for connectors. Also, make sure the connectors are relaxed, not being pulled apart.

czowner · 11-14-2006, 03:32 AM

If your key switch is the same as mine, it will have 4 wires, red, black, green and black/white. Red and black are joined ignition "on", and green and black/white are joined ignition "off", these are the 2 that "kill" the motor. Green goes to ground (earth) and the black/white wire connects to a blue/yellow wire from the CDI. This may be a double connection with another wire going to the kill switch.

Jonathan

molypod · 11-14-2006, 11:51 PM

ob1,
yes I do have a Kill switch and both the key and the kill switch wouldn't work. Once I got it working again both worked( I just got it to turn off 15 minutes before I had to leave for work and was rushed). I'm at work for a couple days more days yet and will have a good look over tracing the wires when I get home.

czowner,
I do believe I have similar wiring as you mentioned but I will find out for sure in a couple days.

Molypod

ob1 · 11-15-2006, 07:54 AM

Check that ground connection, and any circuits/connectors using it, first. Sounds like your kill switch problem is there, and might be the starter problem too.

molypod · 11-21-2006, 06:33 PM

back to square 1.. same problems different day. Atleast I have the wiring diagram now to help diagnose the issues.

molypod · 11-23-2006, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ob1

The starter switch generally applies 12v+ to the solenoid. Find out which small wire at the solenoid is connected to ground, then put a test light/multimeter on the other, and hit the starter switch, you should see 12V. If you do, bad solenoid. If you dont, start tracing the wiring back, looking for that 12v+ when you hit the button.

well I have done just as you've suggested and I have 12V going to the solenoid except when I hit the start switch it drops down to 4V.

molypod

ob1 · 11-23-2006, 02:34 PM

Does the solenoid make a clicking sound?

Take a couple screwdrivers and contact the 2 large cable posts together.

It should spin over. If it does, bad solenoid.

If not; weak or dead battery, bad battery connections, bad cable to ground, bad cable from solenoid to starter. Repair as needed, and retest

molypod · 11-23-2006, 06:15 PM

After numerous e-mails back and forth with the dealer I have found out that its been the battery the whole time. After taking the battery out and connecting my boat battery to the + and to a ground everything worked fine ( started) the kill switch/ignition still didn't work though. The dealer suggested it may be a faulty anti-theft device or due to low voltage passing through the anti theft. he suggested I try re-connecting the boat battery then locking/unlocking the bike with the remote.
BINGO! kill switch/igintion switch work!!.
The silly thing is I checked the batttery first when I had problems with the charger and it said fully charged so I ignored the battery during the rest of the testing.

molypod

11-12-2006, 02:21 PM	#1
molypod Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: British Columbia, Canada Posts: 223	Ignition Problems My Bike won't start now using the Start Switch. It does Start by Kicking or by the Remote control but once started it won't turn off. The kill switch won't work and neither does turning the key off. I have to choke it to kill the engine. What I did yesterday was pull Carb out to do the needle adjustment and it sure made a difference; it starts great now First Kick or using the Remote and idles immediately. I just can't use the start switch or shut down the engine 8O I've gone over all the wire connection and everything seems OK. Any ideas? Molypod
	0

11-12-2006, 05:03 PM	#2
dlunt Join Date: May 2006 Location: Camby, Indiana Posts: 494	Start your bike and turn the switch off. Then start wiggling wires on the switch, handlebars and behind the headlight and work your way back to the engine. You may get lucky and find which one is loose or broke and the engine will stop when you wiggle it. (disclaimer- engine and exhaust will be hot when you get to the wires underneath. :wink: ) __________________ 2006 Flywing(Jianshe)100 2002 Suzuki DR650
	0

11-12-2006, 05:34 PM	#3
gyjoe Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Duluth, MN Posts: 230	I had a problem with a dead starter button when I first got mine. The connector (in the wiring bundle behind the headlight) had disengaged, so I snapped it back together, tucked it back into place, tried again, and nothing. I checked the connector a second time and found it had disengaged again. The release tabs on these connectors are easy to press and therefore release very easily and mine had apparently done so twice just by pressing against the other connectors that were bunched together. I went through and taped the male to the female connectors with electrical tape, and haven't had a problem since. __________________ 2006 Lifan LF200GY-5
	0

11-13-2006, 02:56 AM	#5
CathastrophiX Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Sweden, Europe Posts: 304	On a rainy day i took apart all connectors, and put a little grease in them before connecting them again. I have done that with my ATV before and I think it prevents moisture related problems for the future. __________________ "Failure is always an option!" Qingqi QM200GY -06
	0

11-13-2006, 08:00 AM	#6
ob1 Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 499	The kill switch grounds one of the wires to the CDI box, stopping spark. Find that wire, and check the physical connection to the frame. Then check that wire and and connections back to the CDI. The starter switch doesnt actually start the engine. It actuates a solenoid that engages the high amp power to the starter motor. Find the solenoid, and contact the 2 large cable connections with a screwdriver. If the engine doesnt turn over, you have a bad starter or bad wiring/connections or a dead battery. If it does start, your problem is in the low amp side of the circuit. The starter switch generally applies 12v+ to the solenoid. Find out which small wire at the solenoid is connected to ground, then put a test light/multimeter on the other, and hit the starter switch, you should see 12V. If you do, bad solenoid. If you dont, start tracing the wiring back, looking for that 12v+ when you hit the button.
	0

11-13-2006, 04:56 PM	#8
ob1 Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 499	The key switch may have it's own ground. Does your bike have a kill button? Does it work while the key doesnt? If so, the key switch has it's own ground, check that ground, and the wiring back to the CDI. Dielectric grease is good for connectors. Also, make sure the connectors are relaxed, not being pulled apart.
	0

11-14-2006, 03:32 AM	#9
czowner Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: North East England Posts: 313	If your key switch is the same as mine, it will have 4 wires, red, black, green and black/white. Red and black are joined ignition "on", and green and black/white are joined ignition "off", these are the 2 that "kill" the motor. Green goes to ground (earth) and the black/white wire connects to a blue/yellow wire from the CDI. This may be a double connection with another wire going to the kill switch. Jonathan
	0

11-14-2006, 11:51 PM	#10
molypod Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: British Columbia, Canada Posts: 223	ob1, yes I do have a Kill switch and both the key and the kill switch wouldn't work. Once I got it working again both worked( I just got it to turn off 15 minutes before I had to leave for work and was rushed). I'm at work for a couple days more days yet and will have a good look over tracing the wires when I get home. czowner, I do believe I have similar wiring as you mentioned but I will find out for sure in a couple days. Molypod
	0

11-15-2006, 07:54 AM	#11
ob1 Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 499	Check that ground connection, and any circuits/connectors using it, first. Sounds like your kill switch problem is there, and might be the starter problem too.
	0

11-21-2006, 06:33 PM	#12
molypod Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: British Columbia, Canada Posts: 223	back to square 1.. same problems different day. Atleast I have the wiring diagram now to help diagnose the issues.
	0

11-23-2006, 02:34 PM	#14
ob1 Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 499	Does the solenoid make a clicking sound? Take a couple screwdrivers and contact the 2 large cable posts together. It should spin over. If it does, bad solenoid. If not; weak or dead battery, bad battery connections, bad cable to ground, bad cable from solenoid to starter. Repair as needed, and retest
	0

11-23-2006, 06:15 PM	#15
molypod Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: British Columbia, Canada Posts: 223	After numerous e-mails back and forth with the dealer I have found out that its been the battery the whole time. After taking the battery out and connecting my boat battery to the + and to a ground everything worked fine ( started) the kill switch/ignition still didn't work though. The dealer suggested it may be a faulty anti-theft device or due to low voltage passing through the anti theft. he suggested I try re-connecting the boat battery then locking/unlocking the bike with the remote. BINGO! kill switch/igintion switch work!!. The silly thing is I checked the batttery first when I had problems with the charger and it said fully charged so I ignored the battery during the rest of the testing. molypod
	0