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Old 12-03-2020, 11:34 PM   #1
NinjaSICKthirtysix   NinjaSICKthirtysix is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 56
Just need a straight answer on TT250 rear shock

Been searching but cannot find a 100% straight answer regarding getting an aftermarket rear shock TO LOWER the tt250.

I dont know what the oem size is and so i dont know what shock size to look for AND even which one to get. Such as the exhaust i know we search under a Honda 125, so what do i search for the rear shock?

IT WOULD BE BEST HELPFUL IF THERE IS AN ACTUAL TT250 OWNER WHO HAS REPLACED THEIR REAR SHOCK WITH A SMALLER ONE FOR PURPOSES OF DROPPING THE BIKE 2 INCHES TO LOWER IT. (Direct link to exact product ultra helpful please).

Also, i have the IRC knobbys on my tt250 and the tread is literally a hair away from rubbing the rear frame/shock mount, putting in a new rear shock wont affect the clearence any is that right?

And lastly, how difficult is it to replace the rear shock myself? I only ask for purposes of compressing the bike enough to get the rear shock attached. Because when i raised the front forks there are 7 rings which to raise them maximum but even with a lift and putting a jack under each fork and raising it i was only able to compress the bike enough to get it to the 4th ring. (Those who have raised the forks on your tt250 will know what i mean).

Thank you.


 
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Old 12-04-2020, 09:30 AM   #2
JerseyTBR7   JerseyTBR7 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 130
I have a TBR7 but it is likely the same.

It is a very simple install. Just jack up the bike off the ground, unbolt and bolt new one in.

I have installed a 290 shock since I am a shorter rider.

I used 10mm washers for spacers to make up for the difference in thickness from stock. I held the washers together with scotch tape when installing to make life easier, probably better ways to do it but it works.

It rides just fine with an adult female passenger, rough combined weight around 320lbs and reasonably handles bumps.

I lowered the front forks about 1.5" when initially putting it together. Simply unbolt and slide up, tighten back up by handlebars.

When lowered, you will need to cut about an inch or so of length off the kickstand.

This is the exact shock I used.

https://www.amazon.com/ZXTDR-Suspens...7092018&sr=8-1

ZXTDR 290mm 11.42" Rear Shock Absorber Suspension Sensa-Trac Load Adjusting for Dirt Pit Bike Motorcycle 1200LBS

Picture of the bike this was done on:

https://postlmg.cc/G8rq21kh


 
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Old 12-04-2020, 09:48 AM   #3
TxTaoRider   TxTaoRider is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Flower Mound Texas
Posts: 904
Not a tt250 owner, but it seems the guide is 10mm per inch of height change. So get your bike rear tire off the ground and measure your shock eye to eye length and eBay one thats 15-20 mm shorter. And unless you're under about 130 lbs you'll want a shock with the 1200lb spring to compensate for the wheel travel you'll be giving up by using the shorter shock.
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2021 Tao Tbr7 - "Lucille"
Mods so far- Brozz swingarm, 21" front rim (Bridgestone Tw302 rear/Dunlop D606 front tires), Digital gauge cluster, pz30b pumper carb, after market hand guards, aftermarket brake and clutch levers, round fold away mirrors, Fly handlebars shortened slightly, 13t front sprocket
2009 Q-link Legacy 250
1982 Suzuki GS1100ES - "Jolene"


 
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Old 12-04-2020, 01:46 PM   #4
NinjaSICKthirtysix   NinjaSICKthirtysix is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by JerseyTBR7 View Post
I have a TBR7 but it is likely the same.

It is a very simple install. Just jack up the bike off the ground, unbolt and bolt new one in.

I have installed a 290 shock since I am a shorter rider.

I used 10mm washers for spacers to make up for the difference in thickness from stock. I held the washers together with scotch tape when installing to make life easier, probably better ways to do it but it works.

It rides just fine with an adult female passenger, rough combined weight around 320lbs and reasonably handles bumps.

I lowered the front forks about 1.5" when initially putting it together. Simply unbolt and slide up, tighten back up by handlebars.

When lowered, you will need to cut about an inch or so of length off the kickstand.

This is the exact shock I used.

https://www.amazon.com/ZXTDR-Suspens...7092018&sr=8-1

ZXTDR 290mm 11.42" Rear Shock Absorber Suspension Sensa-Trac Load Adjusting for Dirt Pit Bike Motorcycle 1200LBS

Picture of the bike this was done on:

https://postlmg.cc/G8rq21kh
Thank you! Looks great!

2 things, could you take a picture of the washers attached for me? And did you use rubber washers or metal like oil drain plug washers?

Lastly, i am looking for a larger side tool box for my bike, the one that comes on the tt250 narrows towards the end and wont fit anything additional like a pocket knife or flashlight, and i saw in your picture you have a large toolbox. Was that stock?


 
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Old 12-04-2020, 01:48 PM   #5
NinjaSICKthirtysix   NinjaSICKthirtysix is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by TxTaoRider View Post
Not a tt250 owner, but it seems the guide is 10mm per inch of height change. So get your bike rear tire off the ground and measure your shock eye to eye length and eBay one thats 15-20 mm shorter. And unless you're under about 130 lbs you'll want a shock with the 1200lb spring to compensate for the wheel travel you'll be giving up by using the shorter shock.
Thank you


 
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Old 12-04-2020, 02:36 PM   #6
JerseyTBR7   JerseyTBR7 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 130
Just go to the hardware store and buy about qty 20 10mm metal washers. When you have the shock out, measure the width of the stock one with a caliper. Make the new one the same width with washers. I temporarily held them in pace with scotch tape. Very simple.

I have three toolboxes on the bike.
1) Small stock one
2) Larger one
3) Rear license plate box

Large canister

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

kemimoto Upgrade Motorcycle Tool Tube Kit, 110MM Diameter Motorcycle Storage Canister with Lock Latch Universal Compatible for BMW Honda Yamaha Kawasaki

Lock

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

TSA Approved Luggage Locks with Keys for Travel – Flexible Ultra Secure Mini Key Padlock & Metal Zinc Alloy Material – Black

Rear box

https://www.amazon.com/Small-Lockabl...sr=1-5-catcorr

i5 Small Lockable Storage Box for Motorcycles

I bent a bracket using the shipping container steel the bike shipped with along with those same bolts and nuts. It is bent out of the way to permit the stock box to still open. Very easy.


 
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Old 12-04-2020, 02:46 PM   #7
JerseyTBR7   JerseyTBR7 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 130
If you look at the TBR7 thread recently, these are the other parts on there. I assume you would inquire.


Minkuni VM26 carb off Amazon (1.5 turns out on fuel/air screw on bottom outside middle, inside the fuel bowl a 20 pilot and 110 main jet as of right now) with stock exhaust. It runs fine when warmed up. I have a feeling I will tweak it further when the new exhaust comes in, likely a 115 main and 25 pilot, but we shall see. I am at sea level here. The stock carb is not worth the trouble, just toss it. They ship it that way obviously for emissions purposes, not worth the hassle. The Minkuni is simple to work with and easy to get parts for. The stock choke cable lever setup and spring bolts onto the Minkuni for the handle choke lever, just be careful to take pictures how the spring goes on to save yourself a few minutes of frustration on how to transfer it onto the new one. Swap the needle and black barrel over to the one provided with the VM26 and also sliding in the throttle cable properly.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wingsmoto Carburetor Carb Jet Aftermarket Replacement for Mikuni VM22 VM24 VM26 125 150 200 250cc Dirt Bike Pit Bike
Hwbnde VM26 Carburetor, Works with Mikuni Carb Honda Hawk Go-kart Taotao ATV Dirt CRF KLX TTR XR Pit Dirt for PZ30 150cc 160cc 200cc 250cc 30mm

The fuel gauge appears to be not accurate, but easy enough to open the cap to check. The speedometer is fairly accurate to MPH compared to GPS. The odometer appears to clock Kilometers, not miles. The gear indicators come up properly for all gears, except 2nd for some reason, which is very odd it stays blank. I don't really rely on the indicator at all, so this represents only a nice to have and non-issue. Getting into neutral can be a pain at times, but assuming that will work itself out as it breaks in. It runs, it moves and is a budget motorcycle in a box. Nothing more, nothing less.

If anyone has a link to a upgraded gauge cluster that is 0% extra work and just plug and play, please post in reply. Looking for a zero hassle upgrade for it at some point.

Upgraded Round Mirrors (zimo Pair Motorcycle Rear View Mirror for Ct110 Xr250l):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

NGK spark plug (NGK (2120) D8EA Spark Plug - Pack of 4):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This CDI works fine on this bike (GOOFIT 6 Pin CDI Box Unit for CG 125cc 150cc 200cc 250cc Vertical Engine ATV Go Kart and Dirt Bike):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Phone Mount (Bike & Motorcycle Phone Mount - for iPhone 11 (Xs, Xr, X, 8, Plus/Max), Samsung Galaxy S20 or Any Cell Phone - Universal Handlebar Holder for ATV, Bicycle or Motorbike. +100 to Safeness & Comfort)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Updated Exhaust (Motorcycle Slip-On Full Exhaust Muffler System For Honda CRF150F CRF230F 2003-2013 - Titanium):
https://www.amazon.com/Titanium-Moto...37CSXNS22Y38EB

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The exhaust was a bigger project than imagined. It does not perfectly fit, you may need to do a bunch of work to get it installed if yours comes like mine. You will likely want to have a copper press seal to help prevent the exhaust leak at the engine end. The holes on the engine mount need to be drilled out wider. You will need carbide quality drill bits to get through this type of hardened steel. You will also need some washers for the engine mount. The middle of the bike mount on mine did not align to the stock original middle mount point on the bike, so I drilled a new hole and used neoprene rubber washers and an old socket drilled out and the original bolt to get it mounted properly. The rear mount point was the same. The muffler sat much lower, so I made a new mount extension arm with the shipping frame steel and painted it black. I used another old socket drilled out to space it further away from the back wheel and used the original rubber mount hole and long screw provided with the kit.

Sprockets:

https://postimg.cc/gallery/SjwJ7MG

13T Sprocket:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/520-Chain-2...72.m2749.l2649

32T Rear Sprocket:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/JT-Sprocket...72.m2749.l2649

Chain Tensioner:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and a 100 link 520 chain is what the bike calls for in this configuration.

Exhaust:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


 
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