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Old 05-15-2022, 02:17 PM   #1
scbindisbihhh   scbindisbihhh is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Okierider View Post
To echo what was said before, I think this thing with some 50/50 tires and 17’s would be one hell
of a fun little supermoto.

That's literally what I'm after lmao, I've been dying to have supermoto for fat minute now, I would love to convert this down to one. I feel doing this would also allow me to throw a smaller rear sprocket on to stabilize the gearing and not having to deal with the front so much to worry about sending the chain into the engine casing lol. Definitely looking for the most cost-efficient way about it, these sumo rims have a hefty price tag.
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Old 05-15-2022, 08:12 PM   #2
Okierider   Okierider is offline
 
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Originally Posted by scbindisbihhh View Post
That's literally what I'm after lmao, I've been dying to have supermoto for fat minute now, I would love to convert this down to one. I feel doing this would also allow me to throw a smaller rear sprocket on to stabilize the gearing and not having to deal with the front so much to worry about sending the chain into the engine casing lol. Definitely looking for the most cost-efficient way about it, these sumo rims have a hefty price tag.
I’m really curious to see what nutcracker gets with 2.92 gears. It’ll be interesting to see what the difference is from the stock 3.77
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Old 05-14-2022, 09:06 PM   #3
cdrkimball100   cdrkimball100 is offline
 
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I have one of these bikes and changed the carb to a nibbi. Made the bike work much better. But the pipe glows red only where the Catalytic converter is. Should I just punch it out? I feel like that's why it's holding heat and causing it to glow red.


 
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Old 05-15-2022, 04:08 PM   #4
Okierider   Okierider is offline
 
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Originally Posted by cdrkimball100 View Post
I have one of these bikes and changed the carb to a nibbi. Made the bike work much better. But the pipe glows red only where the Catalytic converter is. Should I just punch it out? I feel like that's why it's holding heat and causing it to glow red.
My concern would be what is causing a part of the bike to get so hot it glows. I’d fix that problem before I worried about removing the cat.

Also there is no tranny to drain fluid from, the clutch is oil bathed and the drive chain is a chain. I changed the oil immediately when I received the bike and again after 20 or so miles. I’ll probably do it again here soon.
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Old 05-17-2022, 08:28 PM   #5
cdrkimball100   cdrkimball100 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Okierider View Post
My concern would be what is causing a part of the bike to get so hot it glows. I’d fix that problem before I worried about removing the cat.

Also there is no tranny to drain fluid from, the clutch is oil bathed and the drive chain is a chain. I changed the oil immediately when I received the bike and again after 20 or so miles. I’ll probably do it again here soon.
Would that mean it's running too lean? It back fires a little on decel. And it also bogs a bit if I crack the throttle from idle. Does yours do that?


 
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Old 05-17-2022, 10:43 PM   #6
Okierider   Okierider is offline
 
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Originally Posted by cdrkimball100 View Post
Would that mean it's running too lean? It back fires a little on decel. And it also bogs a bit if I crack the throttle from idle. Does yours do that?
Mine doesn’t do that, good throttle response, but it does seem to me that it needs batter air flow.
I say that but truly I am not the one to ask-all my experience is on GM LS motors. Fuel injected V8’s are about as far off from carb’d thumpers as one can be. I know what a well tuned motor sounds and feels like, had custom ground cams, did my own custom H pipe exhaust (not easy on 4th gen Camaros lol), rebuilt heads, even played with air-fuel tables in HP tuners, but on these, I am but a lowly noob.
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Old 05-14-2022, 09:06 PM   #7
cdrkimball100   cdrkimball100 is offline
 
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When should I change the oil? 200 miles? Is there a separate spot to change tranny fluid? Thanks in advance!


 
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Old 05-15-2022, 10:14 PM   #8
Nutcracker   Nutcracker is offline
 
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Ok here's the results on sprockets. First off the I incorrectly measured the bolt pattern it's 153MM not 150. I will attach the link for the sprocket I used. So I tried 2 sprockets. 38 tooth and 42 tooth. The angle from the swing arm to the front sprocket is to much causing the majority of the chain to ride on the guide. Gearing was very high 20MPH plus 1st gear. I did not trust high speed with so much chain laying on the guide. I'm sure it would hit 80.. Not what I'm after. So the 42 tooth is FANTASTIC! The bike preforms so much better. I put 50 miles on the bike today. 42 tooth gave me about a 5 to 6 mph gain in each gear. Making 55MPH achievable at only 5K RPM. The harmonics from the non-counter balanced engine is not noticeable. Very comfortable. It hits 70 still pretty wound out but not like it's going to explode.. I'm still very able to lug thru trails no issue the engine has a good low end torque and has plenty of spin when I punch the throttle just lugging along.


 
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Old 05-24-2022, 02:32 PM   #9
Moto_Wojo   Moto_Wojo is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Nutcracker View Post
Ok here's the results on sprockets. First off the I incorrectly measured the bolt pattern it's 153MM not 150. I will attach the link for the sprocket I used. So I tried 2 sprockets. 38 tooth and 42 tooth. The angle from the swing arm to the front sprocket is to much causing the majority of the chain to ride on the guide. Gearing was very high 20MPH plus 1st gear. I did not trust high speed with so much chain laying on the guide. I'm sure it would hit 80.. Not what I'm after. So the 42 tooth is FANTASTIC! The bike preforms so much better. I put 50 miles on the bike today. 42 tooth gave me about a 5 to 6 mph gain in each gear. Making 55MPH achievable at only 5K RPM. The harmonics from the non-counter balanced engine is not noticeable. Very comfortable. It hits 70 still pretty wound out but not like it's going to explode.. I'm still very able to lug thru trails no issue the engine has a good low end torque and has plenty of spin when I punch the throttle just lugging along.
Would you be able to attach the link for the sprockets you used? I would really appreciate it!

Thanks!
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Old 05-24-2022, 07:21 PM   #10
Okierider   Okierider is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Moto_Wojo View Post
Would you be able to attach the link for the sprockets you used? I would really appreciate it!

Thanks!
I think this is it-153mm spacing on the bolts.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0068OC2T4...v_ov_lig_dp_it
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Old 05-24-2022, 07:23 PM   #11
Nutcracker   Nutcracker is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Moto_Wojo View Post
Would you be able to attach the link for the sprockets you used? I would really appreciate it!

Thanks!
This is the one I used. Get a quality 6mm Allen Wrench & sprocket wrench. They went a little crazy on lock-tite..

JT Sprockets JTR210.42 42T Steel Rear Sprocket , black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0068OC2T4...ing=UTF8&psc=1


 
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Old 05-25-2022, 08:20 AM   #12
Thumper   Thumper is online now
 
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Originally Posted by Nutcracker View Post
This is the one I used. Get a quality 6mm Allen Wrench & sprocket wrench. They went a little crazy on lock-tite..

JT Sprockets JTR210.42 42T Steel Rear Sprocket , black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0068OC2T4...ing=UTF8&psc=1
You will probably have excess chain length after installing a much smaller rear sprocket. If you haven't got one, you can get a "chain break tool" for under $20 to push out the shaft and remove as many as you need to. Just remove the master link first, determine the number of overlapping links, and take them off at the end of the chain, then reconnect the master link. Pin the chain break in a vice. It is much easier that way.


Name:  chainbreak.jpg
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Explained here... the one thing not explained clearly is that you need to back off the center post so that pin is retracted into the link clamping anvil (adjustable side). Once the link is firmly pinched (not too tight!), then drive out the link pin:


 
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Old 05-26-2022, 04:04 PM   #13
scbindisbihhh   scbindisbihhh is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nutcracker View Post
This is the one I used. Get a quality 6mm Allen Wrench & sprocket wrench. They went a little crazy on lock-tite..

JT Sprockets JTR210.42 42T Steel Rear Sprocket , black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0068OC2T4...ing=UTF8&psc=1
Do you know if the other sprockets have the same spacing measurement as your 42T, like the 44T or higher?
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Old 05-15-2022, 10:15 PM   #14
Nutcracker   Nutcracker is offline
 
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There no room for 14 tooth front drive sprocket. This is your best bet. What nice is you can drop down to a 12 and achieve near factory performance.

The sprocket form Amazon below.

JT Sprockets JTR210.42 42T Steel Rear Sprocket , black


 
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Old 05-15-2022, 10:41 PM   #15
Okierider   Okierider is offline
 
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Speak of the devil and all that lol.
So looking at the reviews it looks like it’s compatible with the CRF230 and XR650R Hondas.
I wonder if other parts might fit as well?

Regardless, that’s great to hear! I may try the 40 tooth out and see what the difference is.
As cheap as they are I’ll order a few and play around.
Thanks as always nutcracker!

Edit: Is there a benchmark for measuring these sorts of changes? Would be interesting for comparisons.
If a 42 tooth rear sprocket/3.23 gear ratio makes 55mph at 5k rpm in 5th gear it would be interesting to compare what other ratios did.
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