Hawk Talk

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Megadan

Mine were the same way when I first got my bike. When I removed them they spun freely again so I reinstalled them and they worked fine. I do plan on ordering new ones here soon for both front and rear. I just need to get the bearing specs or numbers.

I got the impression his bearings didn't spin after he took the wheel off...ARH

[wamey]

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

I got the impression his bearings didn't spin after he took the wheel off...ARH

If you stick your finger in the inner race and turn, it takes a lot of oomph to get them to turn at all.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by wamey

Front wheel bearings

Rear wheel bearings

I suspect the spacer tube in the wheel hub is slightly too long and that's why they don't spin (because the assemblers pressed only the outer races when installing the bearings) but I don't know for sure.

I had the same suspicion. They had some lateral bind to them, so they would turn, but they were very stiff. When I reinstalled them with my bearing presses they spun freely.

Thanks for the links!

[hertz9753]

I used a rubber hammer to start mine on the rear wheel of my 1980 KX125 and finished with a couple of sockets, I did use clean red shop towels so it was kind of legit.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by wamey

If you stick your finger in the inner race and turn, it takes a lot of oomph to get them to turn at all.

If the spacer is turning with the inner race, and especially if the other bearing's inner race is turning when you do this, you've found the problem. Hopefully, the inner diameter of the spacer is a little bit larger than the inner diameter of the race. If you can find a socket that will fit pretty close to the inner diameter of the race, you can add an extension to the socket and gently tap the lip of the opposite bearing around the inside and work it loose. Don't whale on it. The bearing races are made of hardened steel, they'll chip if you get carried away. You also don't want to get it cocked by driving it too far on one side. So, easy does it...ARH

[BlackBike]

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

If the spacer is turning with the inner race, and especially if the other bearing's inner race is turning when you do this, you've found the problem. Hopefully, the inner diameter of the spacer is a little bit larger than the inner diameter of the race. If you can find a socket that will fit pretty close to the inner diameter of the race, you can add an extension to the socket and gently tap the lip of the opposite bearing around the inside and work it loose. Don't whale on it. The bearing races are made of hardened steel, they'll chip if you get carried away. You also don't want to get it cocked by driving it too far on one side. So, easy does it...ARH

As they say, ya gotta hold your mouth right (there's an old fashioned one)

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by BlackBike

As they say, ya gotta hold your mouth right (there's an old fashioned one)

The old guy who I learned from told me "You gotta hold your tongue j-u-s-t so"...ARH

[Ariel Red Hunter]

I was watching a youtube video of a guy having trouble shifting a Hawk (he continously missed shifts) with boots on. The shift lever on Hawks (and others) are really too short for big American feet. Do yourself a favor and get a longer shift lever. The foot peg rubbers are too slippery when wet, and the length of the footpeg is too short for the afore mentioned feet. On the other side, if the brake lever is too easy to miss with your feet, Take it off and put it in a vice so you can bend it so as it works better for you. And p-u-l-e-e-z-e wear boots when you ride. They will help to protect your ankles and other parts of the foot when you snag your foot on something. I cringe whenever I see someone riding in flip-flops. If you do that, you are asking for excruiating pain...ARH

[hertz9753]

I'm pretty that is the guy that had his Hawk stolen in Bismarck, ND.

http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....66&postcount=1

He bought a KTM after that happened and bought another Hawk because he missed that bike.



I know where he riding in that video. It's drainage area going down to the river in the north part of town. Rich people live up on the hills.

[wamey]

So I hit the 1000 mile mark (not KM) and am planning on cleaning out the centrifugal filter next time I do an oil change. Does it look like the same as this TT250 from an engine innards standpoint?

Also, will I be able to reuse this gasket assuming normal disassembly good practice or do they tend to break/not seal? I see that the link above says to use a new engine cover gasket. Does anyone have a good source for those?

Thanks!

[Ariel Red Hunter]

So what would I do, if I owned a Hawk? I tend to think of a Hawk as sort of a new and improved version of a Honda XL185. It's a trail bike/enduro/dual sport. It is not a racer. But that's OK. My racing days ended before most of you were born. So, I would make it over into what works for me. New handle bars. New handle bars really make a difference in control and comfort. Grips that work for my hands. Everybody's hands are different, and grips have a lot to do with control and comfort. You can be pretty sure that the manufacturer put on the cheapest grips he could find. Made out of re-cycled rubber that I don't even know from where. And am afraid to ask. The twist grip is made out of plastic. I'm sure it is wonderful, but I want metal, thank you just the same. Preferably one with a pulley in it for less friction. Then I would install a switch box with all of the useless switches that are mandated now.
Then I would move down to the shift lever. I'd buy a new longer shift lever that would work with my size 11's. And, I would drill a hole through the end of the shift lever for a piece of wire cable, which is then routed around and crimped on the front down tube. This keeps the pucker brush from getting between the lever and the case, and breaking or bending the lever. Likewise on the brake side, and maybe bend the brake lever out a little, so as to never miss the rear brake with my foot. Yeah, drill and wire that one as well. For the same reason.
Next is to cut out that hump in the seat, doing a nice sanitary job of re-covering it. This way your family jewels are not constantly being scrunched in to the back of the tank. And it might even be a little easier to get on the scoot. Being able to work your way fore and aft on the seat helps with command and control. If your feet are small enough to be comfortable on the footpegs, well and good. They aren't for me, so a new pair of trials 'pegs get the nod. These come from England, although there are online suppliers of trials gear in this country, and you should be able to find them at one of them. Next time I'll talk about the mechanical changes that I think are necessary....ARH

[green_hawk250]

This is July 27, 2017 update for the "ARH Wisdom book".

.doc file 791 Kb - https://www.mediafire.com/?94lf19hj3kxn291

.rtf file 14.1 Mb - https://www.mediafire.com/?dbn24q79xs36ncf

Dear ARH, thank you for being with us.

If somebody doesn't know what is it, please read my old comment - http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....&postcount=544

[pete]

Originally Posted by green_hawk250

This is July 27, 2017 update for the "ARH Wisdom book".

.doc file 791 Kb - https://www.mediafire.com/?94lf19hj3kxn291

.rtf file 14.1 Mb - https://www.mediafire.com/?dbn24q79xs36ncf

Dear ARH, thank you for being with us.

If somebody doesn't know what is it, please read my old comment - http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....&postcount=544

thats quite kool...
just had this vision of some guy down loading it in 50 /100 years time while looking for info
on his newly aquired vintage chinese barn find motor bike...
and ARH & his knowage will live again for a short time...



..

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by wamey

So I hit the 1000 mile mark (not KM) and am planning on cleaning out the centrifugal filter next time I do an oil change. Does it look like the same as this TT250 from an engine innards standpoint?

Also, will I be able to reuse this gasket assuming normal disassembly good practice or do they tend to break/not seal? I see that the link above says to use a new engine cover gasket. Does anyone have a good source for those?

Thanks!

Yes, sort of. This engine doesn't have either the balancer or the chain drive oil pump. It has a gear drive oil pump. If you remove the gasket carefully, it will usually go back on fine. RPS should have these gaskets in stock...ARH

[Mudflap]

On every CG engine I've pulled the clutch cover on the gasket was stuck to the cover and didn't even threaten to tear. I've always been able to reuse them but there's no guarantee.