Matty`s Bashan Streetfighter Quad - Page 6

franque · 06-14-2020, 05:56 PM

.08 mm for the intake and exhaust.

Oddball Matt · 06-14-2020, 06:00 PM

Much obliged.

Oddball Matt · 06-16-2020, 04:39 PM

Guys I think I just found the reason why the quad isn't revving... Holy frick never ever seen valves be so far past negative both screws came out two full turns before I could get a .10mm leaf in between!!! I've now set them so that a .10 will not go in but a .05 will slide through without much resistance. Having seen that I'm kinda surprised it ran at all. Wouldn't be surprised if they've never been set before.

Test run possibly tomorrow, next weekend at the latest.

Oddball Matt · 06-19-2020, 08:08 AM

Some progress I suppose... Just tried the quad, the engine note is completely different, I can now hear the valves clattering away which was completely absent before. The engine also sounds somehow sharper than before. The problem is the rev problem is still there BUT what's different from before is now when I give it throttle it's going PANG PANG PANG PANG like a damn six shooter. Guess it's time to try the original idle jet... Oh, did I mention I dropped the damn needle clip on the asphalt and can't find it.

Oddball Matt · 06-19-2020, 06:09 PM

Small victories today. I now have brake lights at the foot pedal, the fire had melted the old wires and the switch itself seemed a bit iffy so I swapped in a new one cause, you know, perfectly normal to have a couple on standby right? I also finally fitted a petcock, no more fuel spills when faffing about with the carb. I used one meant for a Suzuki PV50 as that was available in shelf at Motonet and it has the res option which I blocked off for now but if I decide to fit an auxiliary tank later it`s good to have the infra fitted already. I also swapped the idle jet back to the unmarked original and oiled&fitted the double layer foam filter. What a sh**show that was, the elbow on the carb is so narrow the oiled (and several times cleaned) boot kept slipping off every time I got the hose clamp nice and tight, finally ended up using a ziptie. Gotta keep an eye on that as I`m kinda expecting it to pop off sooner than later.

More testing tomorrow after I go get more go-juice.

Stupid question: a pushrod engine cannot "jump a tooth" right? Cause if I can`t get the thing running fiddling with the carb I`m all out of ideas.

franque · 06-19-2020, 07:28 PM

The cam timing could possibly be off by a tooth, yes, but only if the engine was disassembled, I don't think the factory would get that one wrong.

Oddball Matt · 06-20-2020, 09:25 AM

The quad works! It gosh darn mother loving frikkin works!!! In the end it was just the matter of finding the right combination of settings on the carb, and trust me I've tried pretty much every one!!! There's an ever so slight hesitation at mid range if you go WOT but I suspect that can too be massaged out eventually but truth be told if I'm gonna see an another carb internal for the next month I'm gonna scream straight til a vein bursts in my head and I'll fall to the deck midnight blue -still screaming.

franque · 06-20-2020, 02:58 PM

Glad it's working out for you!

Oddball Matt · 06-20-2020, 03:08 PM

If memory serves me well (4+7yr old ferrets dashing about when adjusting)

-Mix screw about one turn out (need to check that)
-Needle clip at top slot
-accel pump set on minimum pump (almost completely off)

Still like 98% there but at the moment I'll gladly settle with that. Could probly use a main jet one size smaller, only problem is... You guessed it, no markings!

Expecting the brake parts for the rear to arrive during next week from an another company, gonna dispute the first purchase with paypal as soon as I get the time to do it. Then to sort the few final electric problems and get an inspection scheduled.

Weird part is the rev clock doesn't work. Well it does WORK it's just all over the place. Not that I'd really NEED one just that one would expect an OEM rev clock to work on an OEM setting.

Oddball Matt · 06-23-2020, 05:55 PM

Getting to the "pleasant problem" point of this build; not a whole lot left to do before the final parts shipment arrives... Fitted and adjusted the fairings, fixed the non working high beam (bent contact prong behind the bulb, was armed to the teeth prepared of an all-nighter, took about two minutes) tried to drill out a snapped bolt, didn`t budged so ended up drilling through and retapping, fitted left side ankle guard, drank a few beers, tucked in some wires, fitted new rear reflectors, adjusted headlight down....

Bit on the fence whether to black out that bullet box or leave it as is (sticks out as the only army colored thing...)

Still to do:

-Front engine mount missing one bolt
-Exhaust joint missing clamp (41-42mm as a reminder for myself)
-Rear brake disc & pads swap when the package comes
-Brake bleed/fluid swap
-Swap out the balljoint on the unpainted front arm
-Swap out remaining front balljoint rubbers and grease joints.
-wheel alignment
-Paint that final front arm and rear hubs
-Finish and paint fog light/indicator brackets
-Bend chain roller arm back to alignment
-Wash&wax
-Pump up tires
-MOT

Oddball Matt · 06-24-2020, 12:33 PM

Wontcha look at what was waiting for me at the garage door! Been waiting for these parts since January!!! Alas no time to do nuffin wiv them tonight but if only I can gonna steal some tinker time next weekend and get 'er done!

Oddball Matt · 06-26-2020, 03:45 PM

Had a quad-win today (pun intended): Kids ain`t home, neighbors ain`t home, friday night and she-who-must-be-obeyed announced she`s too tired to socialize go play, so to the town I went.

I decided to just simply ram the old balljoint out through the bottom, worked surprisingly well as the ball pushed the bottom cap out and after that I just plucked the nylon insert out.

Took a slice off both top and bottom to get the dimensions closer to correct and to minimize the amount of metal to be removed at later more laborious stages, then found the closest matching socket and drawed a rough circle inside which I need to carve.

(enter about an hour of trying to find my carbide rotary, failing to do so followed by several hours of filing grinding sanding sweating and cursing)

Well, it ain`t pretty but it fits and ain`t going nowhere. I made the hole tapered enough to have to press fit the joint in and while welding waited after each tack for the piece to cool down enough to touch so I don`t dry the innards.

I`m gonna bet the quad will clock out before this.

Oddball Matt · 06-28-2020, 03:04 PM

Had a funny feeling about this brake disc but could not figure out why. Well turns out, along with the balljoint and contrary to the shop`s promises, this doesn`t fit the BS200S-7 as is either!

A few long clenched fist sighs later I took stock on what I have and what I can do with them, que a spark flying montage and some inspirational music and bam, old brake disc turned into an adapter.

Had to grind these whatchamacallem thingies off the caliper carrier to counter the offset of the adapter.

After straightening the rear axel (couldn`t get it 100% true but I suspect close enough)...

...I got the back end back together. It`s kinda hard to see but I had to grind the allen bolts holding the disc to the adapter flat as they were hitting the carrier. Ain`t getting much any contact with the pads yet but I reckon after a couple spins at the home street they`ll start to grab.

I also painted the now fixed front A-arm, swapped out the other three balljoint rubbers, greased the joints and put the front end back together. As it stands now I am 2x rear hub sand&paint, brake bleed, wheel alignment and an exhaust clamp away from inspection. Possibly next weekend if I can get an appointment, we`ll see.

Oddball Matt · 06-30-2020, 06:19 PM

Last minute roadbumps. I started investigating why isn`t the speedometer working contrary to the prior owner`s promises of it been working when the fire accident happened, turns out the speed sender is completely obliterated. The circuit board inside and the sensor itself looks to be intact but the sensor casing not only has a chip missing from the tp of the thread, the entire metal casing has split in two. My guess is the brake disc has warped enough to touch the tip of the sensor and one of the holes in the disc has collided with the sensor tube. Only problems is almost EVERYONE is out of stock so I`m either stuck with waiting for a new sensor for up to a month, or trying to modify a speed sensor from some other ATV to fit mine.

The second issue came when I tried bleeding the brake system. I got all three calipers bled, ran several reservoir tanks worth of fluid through the system to flush it as well as I could, got good brakes on the pedal, buttoned up and cleaned up. Then after about half an hour returning to the quad I pressed the pedal and it`s completely limp again. WTF?! Do I still have air in the system or is my master cylinder ripe for a swap?!

franque · 07-01-2020, 02:38 AM

It could be that the m/c is done, or something isn't tight enough. One time, I was dealing with a leak on something, and all of the fittings were tight, so I thought. I ended up replacing the m/c, only to discover it needed to be a fair bit tighter than it was to stop the leak. Air could be coming in the same way. Is there any leakage around the calipers/pistons?

06-14-2020, 06:00 PM	#77
Oddball Matt Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: Vääksy, Finland Posts: 401	Much obliged. __________________ 2004 Longjia Grido 50 scooter 1999 Cagiva Mito 125 Evo, Yamaha XV125 engine, Ducati SS fairings, getting turboed 1993 Yamaha GTS 1000 Ex:Bashan BS200-S7 `07 Streetfighter-quad
	0

06-16-2020, 04:39 PM	#78
Oddball Matt Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: Vääksy, Finland Posts: 401	Guys I think I just found the reason why the quad isn't revving... Holy frick never ever seen valves be so far past negative both screws came out two full turns before I could get a .10mm leaf in between!!! I've now set them so that a .10 will not go in but a .05 will slide through without much resistance. Having seen that I'm kinda surprised it ran at all. Wouldn't be surprised if they've never been set before. Test run possibly tomorrow, next weekend at the latest. __________________ 2004 Longjia Grido 50 scooter 1999 Cagiva Mito 125 Evo, Yamaha XV125 engine, Ducati SS fairings, getting turboed 1993 Yamaha GTS 1000 Ex:Bashan BS200-S7 `07 Streetfighter-quad
	1

06-19-2020, 08:08 AM	#79
Oddball Matt Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: Vääksy, Finland Posts: 401	Some progress I suppose... Just tried the quad, the engine note is completely different, I can now hear the valves clattering away which was completely absent before. The engine also sounds somehow sharper than before. The problem is the rev problem is still there BUT what's different from before is now when I give it throttle it's going PANG PANG PANG PANG like a damn six shooter. Guess it's time to try the original idle jet... Oh, did I mention I dropped the damn needle clip on the asphalt and can't find it. __________________ 2004 Longjia Grido 50 scooter 1999 Cagiva Mito 125 Evo, Yamaha XV125 engine, Ducati SS fairings, getting turboed 1993 Yamaha GTS 1000 Ex:Bashan BS200-S7 `07 Streetfighter-quad
	0

06-19-2020, 06:09 PM	#80
Oddball Matt Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: Vääksy, Finland Posts: 401	Small victories today. I now have brake lights at the foot pedal, the fire had melted the old wires and the switch itself seemed a bit iffy so I swapped in a new one cause, you know, perfectly normal to have a couple on standby right? I also finally fitted a petcock, no more fuel spills when faffing about with the carb. I used one meant for a Suzuki PV50 as that was available in shelf at Motonet and it has the res option which I blocked off for now but if I decide to fit an auxiliary tank later it`s good to have the infra fitted already. I also swapped the idle jet back to the unmarked original and oiled&fitted the double layer foam filter. What a sh**show that was, the elbow on the carb is so narrow the oiled (and several times cleaned) boot kept slipping off every time I got the hose clamp nice and tight, finally ended up using a ziptie. Gotta keep an eye on that as I`m kinda expecting it to pop off sooner than later. More testing tomorrow after I go get more go-juice. Stupid question: a pushrod engine cannot "jump a tooth" right? Cause if I can`t get the thing running fiddling with the carb I`m all out of ideas. __________________ 2004 Longjia Grido 50 scooter 1999 Cagiva Mito 125 Evo, Yamaha XV125 engine, Ducati SS fairings, getting turboed 1993 Yamaha GTS 1000 Ex:Bashan BS200-S7 `07 Streetfighter-quad
	0

06-20-2020, 09:25 AM	#82
Oddball Matt Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: Vääksy, Finland Posts: 401	The quad works! It gosh darn mother loving frikkin works!!! In the end it was just the matter of finding the right combination of settings on the carb, and trust me I've tried pretty much every one!!! There's an ever so slight hesitation at mid range if you go WOT but I suspect that can too be massaged out eventually but truth be told if I'm gonna see an another carb internal for the next month I'm gonna scream straight til a vein bursts in my head and I'll fall to the deck midnight blue -still screaming. __________________ 2004 Longjia Grido 50 scooter 1999 Cagiva Mito 125 Evo, Yamaha XV125 engine, Ducati SS fairings, getting turboed 1993 Yamaha GTS 1000 Ex:Bashan BS200-S7 `07 Streetfighter-quad
	2

06-14-2020, 05:56 PM	#76
franque Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea Posts: 1,481	.08 mm for the intake and exhaust.
	0

06-19-2020, 07:28 PM	#81
franque Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea Posts: 1,481	The cam timing could possibly be off by a tooth, yes, but only if the engine was disassembled, I don't think the factory would get that one wrong.
	0

06-20-2020, 02:58 PM	#83
franque Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea Posts: 1,481	Glad it's working out for you!
	0

06-20-2020, 03:08 PM	#84
Oddball Matt Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: Vääksy, Finland Posts: 401	If memory serves me well (4+7yr old ferrets dashing about when adjusting) -Mix screw about one turn out (need to check that) -Needle clip at top slot -accel pump set on minimum pump (almost completely off) Still like 98% there but at the moment I'll gladly settle with that. Could probly use a main jet one size smaller, only problem is... You guessed it, no markings! Expecting the brake parts for the rear to arrive during next week from an another company, gonna dispute the first purchase with paypal as soon as I get the time to do it. Then to sort the few final electric problems and get an inspection scheduled. Weird part is the rev clock doesn't work. Well it does WORK it's just all over the place. Not that I'd really NEED one just that one would expect an OEM rev clock to work on an OEM setting. __________________ 2004 Longjia Grido 50 scooter 1999 Cagiva Mito 125 Evo, Yamaha XV125 engine, Ducati SS fairings, getting turboed 1993 Yamaha GTS 1000 Ex:Bashan BS200-S7 `07 Streetfighter-quad
	0

06-23-2020, 05:55 PM	#85
Oddball Matt Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: Vääksy, Finland Posts: 401	Getting to the "pleasant problem" point of this build; not a whole lot left to do before the final parts shipment arrives... Fitted and adjusted the fairings, fixed the non working high beam (bent contact prong behind the bulb, was armed to the teeth prepared of an all-nighter, took about two minutes) tried to drill out a snapped bolt, didn`t budged so ended up drilling through and retapping, fitted left side ankle guard, drank a few beers, tucked in some wires, fitted new rear reflectors, adjusted headlight down.... Bit on the fence whether to black out that bullet box or leave it as is (sticks out as the only army colored thing...) Still to do: -Front engine mount missing one bolt -Exhaust joint missing clamp (41-42mm as a reminder for myself) -Rear brake disc & pads swap when the package comes -Brake bleed/fluid swap -Swap out the balljoint on the unpainted front arm -Swap out remaining front balljoint rubbers and grease joints. -wheel alignment -Paint that final front arm and rear hubs -Finish and paint fog light/indicator brackets -Bend chain roller arm back to alignment -Wash&wax -Pump up tires -MOT __________________ 2004 Longjia Grido 50 scooter 1999 Cagiva Mito 125 Evo, Yamaha XV125 engine, Ducati SS fairings, getting turboed 1993 Yamaha GTS 1000 Ex:Bashan BS200-S7 `07 Streetfighter-quad
	1

06-24-2020, 12:33 PM	#86
Oddball Matt Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: Vääksy, Finland Posts: 401	Wontcha look at what was waiting for me at the garage door! Been waiting for these parts since January!!! Alas no time to do nuffin wiv them tonight but if only I can gonna steal some tinker time next weekend and get 'er done! __________________ 2004 Longjia Grido 50 scooter 1999 Cagiva Mito 125 Evo, Yamaha XV125 engine, Ducati SS fairings, getting turboed 1993 Yamaha GTS 1000 Ex:Bashan BS200-S7 `07 Streetfighter-quad
	0

06-26-2020, 03:45 PM	#87
Oddball Matt Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: Vääksy, Finland Posts: 401	Had a quad-win today (pun intended): Kids ain`t home, neighbors ain`t home, friday night and she-who-must-be-obeyed announced she`s too tired to socialize go play, so to the town I went. I decided to just simply ram the old balljoint out through the bottom, worked surprisingly well as the ball pushed the bottom cap out and after that I just plucked the nylon insert out. Took a slice off both top and bottom to get the dimensions closer to correct and to minimize the amount of metal to be removed at later more laborious stages, then found the closest matching socket and drawed a rough circle inside which I need to carve. (enter about an hour of trying to find my carbide rotary, failing to do so followed by several hours of filing grinding sanding sweating and cursing) Well, it ain`t pretty but it fits and ain`t going nowhere. I made the hole tapered enough to have to press fit the joint in and while welding waited after each tack for the piece to cool down enough to touch so I don`t dry the innards. I`m gonna bet the quad will clock out before this. __________________ 2004 Longjia Grido 50 scooter 1999 Cagiva Mito 125 Evo, Yamaha XV125 engine, Ducati SS fairings, getting turboed 1993 Yamaha GTS 1000 Ex:Bashan BS200-S7 `07 Streetfighter-quad
	0

06-28-2020, 03:04 PM	#88
Oddball Matt Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: Vääksy, Finland Posts: 401	Had a funny feeling about this brake disc but could not figure out why. Well turns out, along with the balljoint and contrary to the shop`s promises, this doesn`t fit the BS200S-7 as is either! A few long clenched fist sighs later I took stock on what I have and what I can do with them, que a spark flying montage and some inspirational music and bam, old brake disc turned into an adapter. Had to grind these whatchamacallem thingies off the caliper carrier to counter the offset of the adapter. After straightening the rear axel (couldn`t get it 100% true but I suspect close enough)... ...I got the back end back together. It`s kinda hard to see but I had to grind the allen bolts holding the disc to the adapter flat as they were hitting the carrier. Ain`t getting much any contact with the pads yet but I reckon after a couple spins at the home street they`ll start to grab. I also painted the now fixed front A-arm, swapped out the other three balljoint rubbers, greased the joints and put the front end back together. As it stands now I am 2x rear hub sand&paint, brake bleed, wheel alignment and an exhaust clamp away from inspection. Possibly next weekend if I can get an appointment, we`ll see. __________________ 2004 Longjia Grido 50 scooter 1999 Cagiva Mito 125 Evo, Yamaha XV125 engine, Ducati SS fairings, getting turboed 1993 Yamaha GTS 1000 Ex:Bashan BS200-S7 `07 Streetfighter-quad
	0

06-30-2020, 06:19 PM	#89
Oddball Matt Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: Vääksy, Finland Posts: 401	Last minute roadbumps. I started investigating why isn`t the speedometer working contrary to the prior owner`s promises of it been working when the fire accident happened, turns out the speed sender is completely obliterated. The circuit board inside and the sensor itself looks to be intact but the sensor casing not only has a chip missing from the tp of the thread, the entire metal casing has split in two. My guess is the brake disc has warped enough to touch the tip of the sensor and one of the holes in the disc has collided with the sensor tube. Only problems is almost EVERYONE is out of stock so I`m either stuck with waiting for a new sensor for up to a month, or trying to modify a speed sensor from some other ATV to fit mine. The second issue came when I tried bleeding the brake system. I got all three calipers bled, ran several reservoir tanks worth of fluid through the system to flush it as well as I could, got good brakes on the pedal, buttoned up and cleaned up. Then after about half an hour returning to the quad I pressed the pedal and it`s completely limp again. WTF?! Do I still have air in the system or is my master cylinder ripe for a swap?! __________________ 2004 Longjia Grido 50 scooter 1999 Cagiva Mito 125 Evo, Yamaha XV125 engine, Ducati SS fairings, getting turboed 1993 Yamaha GTS 1000 Ex:Bashan BS200-S7 `07 Streetfighter-quad
	1

07-01-2020, 02:38 AM	#90
franque Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea Posts: 1,481	It could be that the m/c is done, or something isn't tight enough. One time, I was dealing with a leak on something, and all of the fittings were tight, so I thought. I ended up replacing the m/c, only to discover it needed to be a fair bit tighter than it was to stop the leak. Air could be coming in the same way. Is there any leakage around the calipers/pistons?
	0