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Old 07-03-2019, 08:54 PM   #1
duck9191   duck9191 is offline
 
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Storm wiring question.

I have always noticed my headlight was dim, figured it was just the crappy China bulb. But... While putting my cluster in I found out that while running I am only seeing 12.5v at any rpm at the battery which is no where high enough to charge the battery. With lights on I'm only seeing 12.2v. Battery hasn't died yet because it's only been on short rides and I put it on a tender. So what I'm wondering is what others are seeing voltage wise? And if the wiring diagram for the hawk/csc tt250 is close enough to the storm to use to diagnose the stator/v reg. Glad I found this out sitting in the garage and not on the side of the road.
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Old 07-03-2019, 10:05 PM   #2
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My Hawk sees about 12.8-12.9V at idle (1500rpm) and about 14.3V at 5000rpm.

As far as the diagrams, yes, most of these bikes run the same or similar charging system. The TT250 uses a more standard 3 yellow wire output from the stator and a matching reg/rec due to its higher output. The Hawk, and likely your storm, use a 2 wire stator output with a reg/rec that has a ground (green) 2 inputs from the stator (white and yellow), 1 output (red to battery) and a black sense wire.
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Old 07-03-2019, 10:20 PM   #3
duck9191   duck9191 is offline
 
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Thanks Dan, I'm gonna go ohm the stator windings and see if they are shorted or something. If that test OK I'll grab a vreg. I don't get anything at idle or 5k rpm.
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2020 Triumph Tiger 900 rally.
2018 Bashan Storm 250. pz30b, digital cluster + gear indicator, unifilter and car customs full exhaust.
2019 Taotao 110b boulder atv. The "arm breaker" lol
2007 Honda VTX 1300R.
1974 Suzuki tm125, work in progress
2001 Suzuki Drz 400s.


 
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Old 07-03-2019, 11:16 PM   #4
Megadan   Megadan is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duck9191 View Post
Thanks Dan, I'm gonna go ohm the stator windings and see if they are shorted or something. If that test OK I'll grab a vreg. I don't get anything at idle or 5k rpm.
It could be something as simple as a connector pin that is pushed out. Continuity testing might not be a bad idea.
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Old 07-04-2019, 12:05 AM   #5
NzBrakelathes   NzBrakelathes is offline
 
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Check how to test stator etc
Test AC side
Check at Regulator and connections etc
Could be as simple as a poor connection or as complex as faulty stator


 
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Old 07-04-2019, 01:27 AM   #6
duck9191   duck9191 is offline
 
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My meter sucks but looks like .8ohm between the coils and 18vac, exciter coil read 270 ohms, 72vac. Going to grab a better digital meter tomorrow that can read capacitance and check the vreg.
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2020 Triumph Tiger 900 rally.
2018 Bashan Storm 250. pz30b, digital cluster + gear indicator, unifilter and car customs full exhaust.
2019 Taotao 110b boulder atv. The "arm breaker" lol
2007 Honda VTX 1300R.
1974 Suzuki tm125, work in progress
2001 Suzuki Drz 400s.


 
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Old 07-04-2019, 07:56 AM   #7
NzBrakelathes   NzBrakelathes is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duck9191 View Post
My meter sucks but looks like .8ohm between the coils and 18vac, exciter coil read 270 ohms, 72vac. Going to grab a better digital meter tomorrow that can read capacitance and check the vreg.
Each output coil should be equal I think 70vac
Are there 3 on your system? I’ve not seen the AC CDI version you guys have etc
I assume you have 3 and each wire to earth about 70vac
Resistance between each wire equal etc and open circuit to ground
Think that’s about all I did to test my bike.
I’ve seen bad connectors at the plug near motor n at the regulator.
Test bolts at output of regulator too


 
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Old 07-04-2019, 07:57 AM   #8
NzBrakelathes   NzBrakelathes is offline
 
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Red with white is ac power for CDI so that won’t need testing if bike runs


 
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Old 07-04-2019, 11:26 AM   #9
duck9191   duck9191 is offline
 
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Like Dan said it's only a 2 pahse stator, they have a yellow and a pink wire for the primary windings. Bike side they are white to pink, yellow to yellow. The ground, trigger and exitcter all matching color.

I only saw 18vac on the primary windings which I think is low.

Trying to find the stator is tricky, might just switch to a 3 phase stator and rectifier/ voltage regulator, should pick up a bit of output too.
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2020 Triumph Tiger 900 rally.
2018 Bashan Storm 250. pz30b, digital cluster + gear indicator, unifilter and car customs full exhaust.
2019 Taotao 110b boulder atv. The "arm breaker" lol
2007 Honda VTX 1300R.
1974 Suzuki tm125, work in progress
2001 Suzuki Drz 400s.


 
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Old 07-04-2019, 11:48 AM   #10
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Typical "8" CG stator are (use google translate app will get the rough idea):

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Old 07-04-2019, 08:26 PM   #11
NzBrakelathes   NzBrakelathes is offline
 
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Changing stator to "other style" involves a bunch of other things - CDI then is DC and Reg and some wiring changes etc etc.

The other stators (most?) are bigger in diameter so new flywheel and related parts etc needed.


 
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Old 07-04-2019, 08:31 PM   #12
NzBrakelathes   NzBrakelathes is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duck9191 View Post
Like Dan said it's only a 2 pahse stator, they have a yellow and a pink wire for the primary windings. Bike side they are white to pink, yellow to yellow. The ground, trigger and exitcter all matching color.

I only saw 18vac on the primary windings which I think is low.

Trying to find the stator is tricky, might just switch to a 3 phase stator and rectifier/ voltage regulator, should pick up a bit of output too.
Black with red = AC power to CDI
Green with White = earth side of pick up?
Blue with white plus of pick up/tacho wire
White to Pink AC for charging?
Yellow AC for charging?
Green with red stripe = neutral.

If you know more def then me I will edit - think this is about right.


 
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Old 07-04-2019, 11:07 PM   #13
duck9191   duck9191 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NzBrakelathes View Post
Black with red = AC power to CDI
Green with White = earth side of pick up?
Blue with white plus of pick up/tacho wire
White to Pink AC for charging?
Yellow AC for charging?
Green with red stripe = neutral.

If you know more def then me I will edit - think this is about right.
Woke up feeling like absolutely trash today so didn't do much with it. Did retest the primary windings, getting 1.4ohm, no short to ground and they are putting out upwards of 50vac at 4k rpm. Continuity test each wire end to end with no issues. Did find that the vreg is putting out 13.5v for about 2 minutes then it doesn't put out anything. Diodes in the rectifier test good so it seems like a vreg issue. Ordered one off amazon that will be here Saturday.

that looks right. I haven't back traced the blk/red wire, one diagram listed it as the exciter coil, but never know. I'll take a look Saturday if I'm feeling better and see where its heading.
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2020 Triumph Tiger 900 rally.
2018 Bashan Storm 250. pz30b, digital cluster + gear indicator, unifilter and car customs full exhaust.
2019 Taotao 110b boulder atv. The "arm breaker" lol
2007 Honda VTX 1300R.
1974 Suzuki tm125, work in progress
2001 Suzuki Drz 400s.


 
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Old 07-06-2019, 12:19 AM   #14
Cravin01   Cravin01 is offline
 
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My storm shows over 14 volts when running but over 12 sitting, That's what my USB/Voltmeter reads. The stock light was dull but I did a upgrade and now it's blinding bright. The stock battery is still on the bike, I don't really know if it's the crap battery or the charging system but you can only get a half dozen hard cranks before she gives up the ghost so I just use a battery tender and with my upgraded pumper carb I can kick start her easy enough as long as I use the choking sequence.

Full choke... kick till she fires and dies
half choke... kick and let her run and warm up
choke off... when warm she will Idle down a tad and now you get full throttle and no cut out.

This has always been a concern to me with these bikes, The battery dies quick and they suck to try and kick start. I would suggest a carb upgrade (preferably pumper for the extra gas) first to anyone. Not just for performance but for the ability to get her running with a dead battery. it's cheaper than a booster pack too!
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Old 07-06-2019, 08:32 PM   #15
NzBrakelathes   NzBrakelathes is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravin01 View Post
My storm shows over 14 volts when running but over 12 sitting, That's what my USB/Voltmeter reads. The stock light was dull but I did a upgrade and now it's blinding bright. The stock battery is still on the bike, I don't really know if it's the crap battery or the charging system but you can only get a half dozen hard cranks before she gives up the ghost so I just use a battery tender and with my upgraded pumper carb I can kick start her easy enough as long as I use the choking sequence.

Full choke... kick till she fires and dies
half choke... kick and let her run and warm up
choke off... when warm she will Idle down a tad and now you get full throttle and no cut out.

This has always been a concern to me with these bikes, The battery dies quick and they suck to try and kick start. I would suggest a carb upgrade (preferably pumper for the extra gas) first to anyone. Not just for performance but for the ability to get her running with a dead battery. it's cheaper than a booster pack too!
A good tune of stock carb is the same as tuning a pumper or Mikuni.
They all work the same basically and the pumper just adds a squirt of fuel on fast throttle twist - BUT as far as kick starting and most running goes all 3 are pretty much the same or a very minor change.

IMO (YES I sell a kit, I know I know...) learning on the stock carb is prob the best starting point cause it requires the same skills on the other 2.
Cheaper n smarter to learn on stock carb IMHO.


 
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