Rebel T3 200cc Problems

FosterVS · 08-23-2010, 09:44 PM

Just got this quad, I already had a X31 250cc dirtbike purchased about 2 months ago which I love, other than replacing the crappy stock chain I have had no problems with it... other than tires are getting burned off, some quality ones on the way.

I have some experience with Chinese gas-powered vehicles, I have imported pocket bikes, dirt bikes, quads in the past.

The Rebel assembled fine, other than the rear rack didn't line up with the frame, had to whack it with a hammer to straighten it, the bars were crooked. Filled all connectors with dielectric grease, replaced those chrome Philips bolts that hold the body panels together, etc. with stainless steel ones, because those chrome ones always immediately rust as soon as they get wet. Rerouted and tie wrapped things properly, tightened all bolts...

It ran fine in my yard, did a few test cycles to make sure it was OK. Next morning, I pulled the carb and intake to check gaskets, it sounded like it was leaky. No problems, so I used some gasket compound to seal it anyways. Reassembled, changed the crap factory plug with an NGK.

So I get it out to our riding area, and the damn thing won't run unless the choke is all the way on. I check obvious stuff, nothing. Someone there tells me I MUST oil the air filter element, so we do that. No change. I pull the air filter and housing off, wondering if somehow the choke is backwards - nope, and I discover for some reason it won't run with the aircleaner assembly off?

I put the original plug back in - no change. Decide to look at the plug cap.. and the wire falls right out. Are these just jam fitted in there? Jam it back in, let the thing warm up for a while, finally runs reasonable but not much power, are these things supposed to run so hot?

At home today, decide to maybe change the plug wire and cap... is this wire molded right into the ignition coil? GREAT.... or is it?

I've got a "performance" Mikuni carb on the way from GIO, same one apparently as on my X31 dirtbike. The existing carb sure ain't a Mikuni, it has something else stamped on it.

Any suggestions I would appreciate it!

mizke · 08-23-2010, 09:54 PM

performance large cdi, got mine at gio auctions for 28 bucks shipped..

then look on ebay for a 200cc peformance coil, order it.. when you get it replace the wire and plug with a ngk one, get a uni filter or a open element air filter, and a performance muffler.. then jet the carb.

you can order the gio performance muffler, or run a fmf, hmf, dg whatever muffler.. i dont know a gio but mine is exactly the same way.. in the video sections look for my post called... fmf powercore 2 on a 200cc atv or something similar to that..

if you cant find jets local

rockymountainatvmc.com is a great place to get them.

one last thing, do a proper 4stroke engine break in on it..

i will find the write i posted here from a another site about the break in process

mizke · 08-23-2010, 09:56 PM

here you go, its easy and simple to do...

http://chinariders.net/modules.php?n...wtopic&t=10509

MICRider · 08-23-2010, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FosterVS

Just got this quad, I already had a X31 250cc dirtbike purchased about 2 months ago which I love, other than replacing the crappy stock chain I have had no problems with it... other than tires are getting burned off, some quality ones on the way.

I have some experience with Chinese gas-powered vehicles, I have imported pocket bikes, dirt bikes, quads in the past.

The Rebel assembled fine, other than the rear rack didn't line up with the frame, had to whack it with a hammer to straighten it, the bars were crooked. Filled all connectors with dielectric grease, replaced those chrome Philips bolts that hold the body panels together, etc. with stainless steel ones, because those chrome ones always immediately rust as soon as they get wet. Rerouted and tie wrapped things properly, tightened all bolts...

It ran fine in my yard, did a few test cycles to make sure it was OK. Next morning, I pulled the carb and intake to check gaskets, it sounded like it was leaky. No problems, so I used some gasket compound to seal it anyways. Reassembled, changed the crap factory plug with an NGK.

So I get it out to our riding area, and the damn thing won't run unless the choke is all the way on. I check obvious stuff, nothing. Someone there tells me I MUST oil the air filter element, so we do that. No change. I pull the air filter and housing off, wondering if somehow the choke is backwards - nope, and I discover for some reason it won't run with the aircleaner assembly off?

I put the original plug back in - no change. Decide to look at the plug cap.. and the wire falls right out. Are these just jam fitted in there? Jam it back in, let the thing warm up for a while, finally runs reasonable but not much power, are these things supposed to run so hot?

At home today, decide to maybe change the plug wire and cap... is this wire molded right into the ignition coil? GREAT.... or is it?

I've got a "performance" Mikuni carb on the way from GIO, same one apparently as on my X31 dirtbike. The existing carb sure ain't a Mikuni, it has something else stamped on it.

Any suggestions I would appreciate it!

I'm not too sure about the ignition wire as I've never had mine off of the cap. I know on my sons Mini Beast though, it just pushes on.

As far as the carb goes, it made all the difference in the world on mine. It runs much better with the Mikuni on it, no hesitation and revs till it sounds scary

. Ive had some problems with crud in the tank on mine too, so it might not hurt to flush that out if you get a chance. Your familiar with the build of the chinabikes so you know about the crappy fuel lines and shipping oil etc... Regular replacement stuff here.

Lots of Beast owners on here that have done major tweaking on their machines so I think you will get lots of good tips!

Cheers,
Stew

anthonyfa18 · 08-23-2010, 11:01 PM

welcome to the site look here for some help too

http://www.chinariders.net/modules.p...ewtopic&t=9128

TurboT · 08-23-2010, 11:46 PM

Hey,

Glad to see we have some more T3 Rebel members joining.

Like any new item out of the box it requires some tinkering to get it right.

It sounds to me like you need to do some carb tuning. As much as that other stuff is an irritant (plug wires etc) the biggest thing you are describing is all in your carb tune. Not running without choke or air cleaner etc.

You have three settings on your carb. An idle screw, an air/fuel screw, and your top cap removes to expose the needle which has position clips on it. You need to have the air/fuel screw and needle clip in the right positions for your altitude and temperature for your engine to run the way it's supposed to (smooth idle, making power, not too rich or too lean)

You've made the right step with the new carb en route. I'd probably wait for it to arrive and tune it accordingly. The stock carbs are really flakey for most.

The other advice in the posts is very valid for increased performance, but your quad should run fine with the better carb and no other upgrades, if you so choose to leave it like that.

..that is without us getting into the chain issue.

Weldangrind · 08-24-2010, 01:25 AM

The stock coil should meet your needs, but the plug wire is a little weak, according to my multimeter. All that said, I have an early Beast, not a T3.

On every China machine I've had my hands on, the plug wire unscrews from the coil. All you need to do is peel back the rubber seal at the coil and you should have no trouble unscrewing the plug wire. I bought an NGK wire at Canadian Tire that is designed for a stud-type plug with a 90 degree boot. Totally worth it.

mizke · 08-24-2010, 01:28 AM

damn im going to have to track one of those down when i get my performance coil.. the plug wire that comes with them looks really cheap...

or i might just use one off my mustang when i do my next tune up..

FosterVS · 08-24-2010, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Your familiar with the build of the chinabikes so you know about the crappy fuel lines and shipping oil etc... Regular replacement stuff here.
Cheers,
Stew

Oh yeah, forgot about that - replaced the fuel line with quality stuff, and the fuel filter. You are lucky if you get one season with the original line, before it rots away. Still have to do the same to the dirtbike, but it's a little harder to get at.

And I changed the oil.

FosterVS · 08-24-2010, 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mizke

performance large cdi, got mine at gio auctions for 28 bucks shipped..

then look on ebay for a 200cc peformance coil, order it.. when you get it replace the wire and plug with a ngk one, get a uni filter or a open element air filter, and a performance muffler.. then jet the carb.

you can order the gio performance muffler, or run a fmf, hmf, dg whatever muffler.. i dont know a gio but mine is exactly the same way.. in the video sections look for my post called... fmf powercore 2 on a 200cc atv or something similar to that..

if you cant find jets local

rockymountainatvmc.com is a great place to get them.

one last thing, do a proper 4stroke engine break in on it..

i will find the write i posted here from a another site about the break in process

Dang, I just finished an order from GIO, the Mikuni carb and the upgraded clutch and brake levers for the dirt bike. Never thought about a CDI.

"rockymountainatvmc.com" - I just ordered tires for my dirt bike from them! Guess I should have held off a few days....

I think for the time being I am just going to install an NGK cap, and the new Mikuni carb. Then source a new CDI, performance coil, filter and muffler.

FosterVS · 08-24-2010, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TurboT

Hey,

Glad to see we have some more T3 Rebel members joining.

Like any new item out of the box it requires some tinkering to get it right.

It sounds to me like you need to do some carb tuning. As much as that other stuff is an irritant (plug wires etc) the biggest thing you are describing is all in your carb tune. Not running without choke or air cleaner etc.

You have three settings on your carb. An idle screw, an air/fuel screw, and your top cap removes to expose the needle which has position clips on it. You need to have the air/fuel screw and needle clip in the right positions for your altitude and temperature for your engine to run the way it's supposed to (smooth idle, making power, not too rich or too lean)

You've made the right step with the new carb en route. I'd probably wait for it to arrive and tune it accordingly. The stock carbs are really flakey for most.

The other advice in the posts is very valid for increased performance, but your quad should run fine with the better carb and no other upgrades, if you so choose to leave it like that.

..that is without us getting into the chain issue.

Yeah, it is frustrating though, the X31 dirtbike required almost no tinkering, and I've been beating the trails every weekend with it. Other then sticking an NGK cap on the existing wire, I am gonna wait until the new carb arrives before I do anything with the quad.

Only reason I didn't replace the chain immediately, as I did with the dirtbike, is it doesn't have the size stamped on the links. So I need to pull the chain and take it with me to get a replacement.

A wishlist item for these Chinese units is I wish they would design some rubber engine mounts, instead of bolting them right to the frame. Would get rid of some of the vibration, and decrease the problem of frames breaking at motor mount points!

Weldangrind · 08-24-2010, 11:03 AM

IIRC, the T3 uses a 530, but a bike shop will be able to confirm.

BTW, http://www.gnarlyparts.ca/ is in Canada, and they get alot of stock from rouckymountainatvmc, so the prices are similar. If you're anywhere near Chilliwack, BC you can even save the shipping.

FosterVS · 08-25-2010, 11:16 PM

The plug wire does INDEED unscrew from the ignition coil:

So I replaced the wire with a performance one I had left from my truck:

Filled the cap with black automotive silicone sealant before I pushed it on.
Had to find a thread-on cap for my sparkplug, which can be a problem as a lot of them are molded right on the plugs now:

Done...still doesn't run properly though:

FosterVS · 08-25-2010, 11:29 PM

Removed carb and disassembled:

It sure ain't a Mikuni. Circled adjustment is idle... I thought it was the mixture screw!

Adjustment in the square is what I believe is the mixture adjustment.
Something I noticed was the fuel in the bowl was pouring out the circled port when I removed the carb - is this normal, a breather hole or something?

The needle. It is adjusted for the center position, which I left alone.

I forgot to take a picture when I disassembled the bowl on the bottom. I see what I think are two removable jets down there. I wrote the numbers down, damned if I can find them now - center one was 94, the other was 33? (found it - 94 and 38 )

Regardless - I don't see anything wrong with the carb, nothing gunked up or sticking, everything moves freely. Bowl screws weren't that tight, nothing major.

FosterVS · 08-26-2010, 11:13 PM

Mikuni carb showed up today (100 jet in it), but no time to install and test. I notice the intake diameter is 30mm vs 27mm on the old one, but the bolt pattern is the same. Will likely have to take a Dremel tool to the intake pipe. Also, the choke hardware (spring, etc. for handlebar choke lever) fits right on the Mikuni.

08-23-2010, 09:44 PM	#1
FosterVS Join Date: Jul 2010 Posts: 100	Rebel T3 200cc Problems Just got this quad, I already had a X31 250cc dirtbike purchased about 2 months ago which I love, other than replacing the crappy stock chain I have had no problems with it... other than tires are getting burned off, some quality ones on the way. I have some experience with Chinese gas-powered vehicles, I have imported pocket bikes, dirt bikes, quads in the past. The Rebel assembled fine, other than the rear rack didn't line up with the frame, had to whack it with a hammer to straighten it, the bars were crooked. Filled all connectors with dielectric grease, replaced those chrome Philips bolts that hold the body panels together, etc. with stainless steel ones, because those chrome ones always immediately rust as soon as they get wet. Rerouted and tie wrapped things properly, tightened all bolts... It ran fine in my yard, did a few test cycles to make sure it was OK. Next morning, I pulled the carb and intake to check gaskets, it sounded like it was leaky. No problems, so I used some gasket compound to seal it anyways. Reassembled, changed the crap factory plug with an NGK. So I get it out to our riding area, and the damn thing won't run unless the choke is all the way on. I check obvious stuff, nothing. Someone there tells me I MUST oil the air filter element, so we do that. No change. I pull the air filter and housing off, wondering if somehow the choke is backwards - nope, and I discover for some reason it won't run with the aircleaner assembly off? I put the original plug back in - no change. Decide to look at the plug cap.. and the wire falls right out. Are these just jam fitted in there? Jam it back in, let the thing warm up for a while, finally runs reasonable but not much power, are these things supposed to run so hot? At home today, decide to maybe change the plug wire and cap... is this wire molded right into the ignition coil? GREAT.... or is it? I've got a "performance" Mikuni carb on the way from GIO, same one apparently as on my X31 dirtbike. The existing carb sure ain't a Mikuni, it has something else stamped on it. Any suggestions I would appreciate it!
	0

08-23-2010, 11:01 PM	#5
anthonyfa18 Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: montreal Posts: 242	welcome to the site look here for some help too http://www.chinariders.net/modules.p...ewtopic&t=9128 __________________ 2008 gio beast 200cc mod list YTX14-BS battery mod,gy6 carb 250cc,custom intake,125cc cf dirtbike muffler,MPR filter/intake,performance cdi,ngk iridium xi dpr8eix-9,performance coil pack and wire, pro taper handle bar, Gio air shocks, yam swing arm bus
	0

08-24-2010, 01:25 AM	#7
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	The stock coil should meet your needs, but the plug wire is a little weak, according to my multimeter. All that said, I have an early Beast, not a T3. On every China machine I've had my hands on, the plug wire unscrews from the coil. All you need to do is peel back the rubber seal at the coil and you should have no trouble unscrewing the plug wire. I bought an NGK wire at Canadian Tire that is designed for a stud-type plug with a 90 degree boot. Totally worth it. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

08-24-2010, 11:03 AM	#12
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	IIRC, the T3 uses a 530, but a bike shop will be able to confirm. BTW, http://www.gnarlyparts.ca/ is in Canada, and they get alot of stock from rouckymountainatvmc, so the prices are similar. If you're anywhere near Chilliwack, BC you can even save the shipping. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

08-23-2010, 09:54 PM	#2
mizke Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: austin, tx Posts: 1,452	performance large cdi, got mine at gio auctions for 28 bucks shipped.. then look on ebay for a 200cc peformance coil, order it.. when you get it replace the wire and plug with a ngk one, get a uni filter or a open element air filter, and a performance muffler.. then jet the carb. you can order the gio performance muffler, or run a fmf, hmf, dg whatever muffler.. i dont know a gio but mine is exactly the same way.. in the video sections look for my post called... fmf powercore 2 on a 200cc atv or something similar to that.. if you cant find jets local rockymountainatvmc.com is a great place to get them. one last thing, do a proper 4stroke engine break in on it.. i will find the write i posted here from a another site about the break in process
	0

08-23-2010, 09:56 PM	#3
mizke Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: austin, tx Posts: 1,452	here you go, its easy and simple to do... http://chinariders.net/modules.php?n...wtopic&t=10509
	0

08-23-2010, 11:46 PM	#6
TurboT Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Surrey, B.C., Canada Posts: 2,185	Hey, Glad to see we have some more T3 Rebel members joining. Like any new item out of the box it requires some tinkering to get it right. It sounds to me like you need to do some carb tuning. As much as that other stuff is an irritant (plug wires etc) the biggest thing you are describing is all in your carb tune. Not running without choke or air cleaner etc. You have three settings on your carb. An idle screw, an air/fuel screw, and your top cap removes to expose the needle which has position clips on it. You need to have the air/fuel screw and needle clip in the right positions for your altitude and temperature for your engine to run the way it's supposed to (smooth idle, making power, not too rich or too lean) You've made the right step with the new carb en route. I'd probably wait for it to arrive and tune it accordingly. The stock carbs are really flakey for most. The other advice in the posts is very valid for increased performance, but your quad should run fine with the better carb and no other upgrades, if you so choose to leave it like that. ..that is without us getting into the chain issue.
	0

08-24-2010, 01:28 AM	#8
mizke Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: austin, tx Posts: 1,452	damn im going to have to track one of those down when i get my performance coil.. the plug wire that comes with them looks really cheap... or i might just use one off my mustang when i do my next tune up..
	0

08-25-2010, 11:16 PM	#13
FosterVS Join Date: Jul 2010 Posts: 100	The plug wire does INDEED unscrew from the ignition coil: So I replaced the wire with a performance one I had left from my truck: Filled the cap with black automotive silicone sealant before I pushed it on. Had to find a thread-on cap for my sparkplug, which can be a problem as a lot of them are molded right on the plugs now: Done...still doesn't run properly though:
	0

08-25-2010, 11:29 PM	#14
FosterVS Join Date: Jul 2010 Posts: 100	Removed carb and disassembled: It sure ain't a Mikuni. Circled adjustment is idle... I thought it was the mixture screw! Adjustment in the square is what I believe is the mixture adjustment. Something I noticed was the fuel in the bowl was pouring out the circled port when I removed the carb - is this normal, a breather hole or something? The needle. It is adjusted for the center position, which I left alone. I forgot to take a picture when I disassembled the bowl on the bottom. I see what I think are two removable jets down there. I wrote the numbers down, damned if I can find them now - center one was 94, the other was 33? (found it - 94 and 38 ) Regardless - I don't see anything wrong with the carb, nothing gunked up or sticking, everything moves freely. Bowl screws weren't that tight, nothing major.
	0

08-26-2010, 11:13 PM	#15
FosterVS Join Date: Jul 2010 Posts: 100	Mikuni carb showed up today (100 jet in it), but no time to install and test. I notice the intake diameter is 30mm vs 27mm on the old one, but the bolt pattern is the same. Will likely have to take a Dremel tool to the intake pipe. Also, the choke hardware (spring, etc. for handlebar choke lever) fits right on the Mikuni.
	0