TT250 Battery Fuse Keeps Blowing....

PNWDualRider · 08-21-2016, 06:35 PM

Every time I put in a new fuse and fire up the bike, it runs great for about 10 seconds and then blows the fuse... This is a brand new bike and this is frustrating. Took it up camping again to show some buddies my bike and I went through like 7 spare fuses. Yes they are the right amp fuses. Any thoughts? I don't know where to start...

Ariel Red Hunter · 08-21-2016, 07:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PNWDualRider

Every time I put in a new fuse and fire up the bike, it runs great for about 10 seconds and then blows the fuse... This is a brand new bike and this is frustrating. Took it up camping again to show some buddies my bike and I went through like 7 spare fuses. Yes they are the right amp fuses. Any thoughts? I don't know where to start...

I would start checking voltage output from the rectifier/regulator first. Make sure the rectifier is well grounded to the frame. If the rectifier is putting out between 13.4 to 15 volts at various rpm, charging system is probably ok.

PNWDualRider · 08-21-2016, 07:12 PM

**UPDATE**

So I checked all the bulbs and lighting and everything was fine. Started up, ran great for 5 minutes and revved it up a lot to fluctuate the voltage. Turned off the bike and did that about 3 times. All things look great. It blows the fuse as soon as I put it in gear and give it a little throttle while slowly releasing the clutch. As soon as I did that, fuse blows, bikes dies, and all power is gone. Shouldn't the bike still run fine from the stator even without the battery? I can kick it over but it runs as long as I keep the RPM's high... As soon as it reaches idle, it shuts off. Also, my idle is slightly higher than normal anyways so idk what the hell is going on but this new motorcycle should not be having these issues after 2 months...

Ariel Red Hunter · 08-21-2016, 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PNWDualRider

**UPDATE**

So I checked all the bulbs and lighting and everything was fine. Started up, ran great for 5 minutes and revved it up a lot to fluctuate the voltage. Turned off the bike and did that about 3 times. All things look great. It blows the fuse as soon as I put it in gear and give it a little throttle while slowly releasing the clutch. As soon as I did that, fuse blows, bikes dies, and all power is gone. Shouldn't the bike still run fine from the stator even without the battery? I can kick it over but it runs as long as I keep the RPM's high... As soon as it reaches idle, it shuts off. Also, my idle is slightly higher than normal anyways so idk what the hell is going on but this new motorcycle should not be having these issues after 2 months...

Sounds like the charging system is fine. Put it in gear and it blows the fuse. I would look for a short in the wires coming out of the transmission. Probably in the nuetral/gear light wire.

Adjuster · 08-21-2016, 08:26 PM

You have a wire shorting/grounding out. Trace every wire, should not be too difficult to locate it. Look for pinched and burnt wires touching metal they shouldn't be. Take all plastics and engine covers off to check the wires and connections under them.

/

Adjuster · 08-21-2016, 08:36 PM

I would also look very closely at the ignition/key switch and your kill switch and all their associated wiring. Internals of the switches. It sounds like something is grounding out your ignition system which is exactly what your kill switch is designed to do.

/

BlackBike · 08-21-2016, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adjuster

You have a wire shorting/grounding out. Trace every wire, should not be too difficult to locate it. Look for pinched and burnt wires touching metal they shouldn't be. Take all plastics and engine covers off to check the wires and connections under them.

/

Boy are you correct on this , 4 months into ownership I found 2 areas of wiring for future grounding issues. One was on a coupler that was rubbing and another on a wire. Patched up with electric tape. Glad I found them and not on the road. Pays to inspect.

celswick13 · 08-21-2016, 10:19 PM

Not sure what everyone uses for "electrical tape" here, but I figure I'd mention this for those that aren't aware of it.
I use a more rubberized, stretchy, type of electrical tape, versus the vinyl stuff everyone thinks of first.
I have two kinds.
Rubber mastic http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Scotch...BA-5/202195402

and Temflex splicing tape.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-3-4-in...2155/202195401

These bond to themselves after stretching. They are more moisture resistant, and deal with much higher temps.
I have used this to make cover entire car wiring harnesses before.
I also use it to cover areas of wire that deal with vibration and abrasion, as well as possible heat.

Basically, it just last longer and is more reliable when exposed to elements.
You can see some on the sparkplug wire in this pic, which I used to wrap the coil signal wire for my vapor dash unit.
I've since redone it, but you get the idea of what it looks like. I even have some wrapped around the plug boot itself, to cover the coil wires wrapped around it.

BlackBike · 08-21-2016, 10:56 PM

Harbor freight got it too $4 http://www.harborfreight.com/househo...ape-68401.html

It's scary how all us "engineers" think alike

Adjuster · 08-21-2016, 11:01 PM

Another idea to track down your electrical short is as soon as you blow a fuse get your nose down there and start smelling around. Electrical shorts put off that distinct electrical smoke smell.

/

humanbeing · 08-21-2016, 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adjuster

...as soon as you blow a fuse get your nose down there and start smelling around. Electrical shorts put off that distinct electrical smoke smell.

Or bring a dog to the scene. Clever one knows how by natural calls...

pete · 08-22-2016, 03:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PNWDualRider

**UPDATE**

while slowly releasing the clutch. As soon as I did that, fuse blows, bikes dies, and

Clutch switch.... trace the wires and disconect it...
look for wires from the clutch lever on the handle bars..

..

kohburn · 08-22-2016, 07:16 AM

gear position switch is down there. if you put it in gear but hold the clutch in and rev it does it blow?

2LZ · 08-22-2016, 10:15 AM

If I was at a craps table, I'd be betting on the guys throwing the dice for the wiring coming out of the tranny behind the countershaft cover.

PNWDualRider · 08-22-2016, 07:09 PM

**UPDATE**

Found the problem... A zip tie snapped and there was a wire that rested against the exhaust pipe, melted the plastic and exposed the wires. Once I pulled the break lever. The wiring moved and it would touch the frame, grounding out and popping fuse. I fixed it all and placed new zip ties on. All is fixed👍

08-21-2016, 06:35 PM	#1
PNWDualRider Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Washington Posts: 87	TT250 Battery Fuse Keeps Blowing.... Every time I put in a new fuse and fire up the bike, it runs great for about 10 seconds and then blows the fuse... This is a brand new bike and this is frustrating. Took it up camping again to show some buddies my bike and I went through like 7 spare fuses. Yes they are the right amp fuses. Any thoughts? I don't know where to start... __________________ 2016 CSC TT250 2006 Zongshen ZS200GY-2 *1973 Honda SL100
	0

08-21-2016, 07:12 PM	#3
PNWDualRider Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Washington Posts: 87	UPDATE So I checked all the bulbs and lighting and everything was fine. Started up, ran great for 5 minutes and revved it up a lot to fluctuate the voltage. Turned off the bike and did that about 3 times. All things look great. It blows the fuse as soon as I put it in gear and give it a little throttle while slowly releasing the clutch. As soon as I did that, fuse blows, bikes dies, and all power is gone. Shouldn't the bike still run fine from the stator even without the battery? I can kick it over but it runs as long as I keep the RPM's high... As soon as it reaches idle, it shuts off. Also, my idle is slightly higher than normal anyways so idk what the hell is going on but this new motorcycle should not be having these issues after 2 months... __________________ 2016 CSC TT250 2006 Zongshen ZS200GY-2 *1973 Honda SL100
	0

08-21-2016, 10:56 PM	#9
BlackBike Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: George West, Texas Posts: 4,097	Harbor freight got it too $4 http://www.harborfreight.com/househo...ape-68401.html It's scary how all us "engineers" think alike __________________ ***************************************** 2015 Bashan"Blaze" BS250GY-31 (DB-07K-250) GONE 2017 Suzuki V Strom 650 XT "We are all born ignorant, but one must work hard to remain stupid." ~Benjamin Franklin~
	0

08-22-2016, 07:16 AM	#13
kohburn Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Coastal NC Posts: 537	gear position switch is down there. if you put it in gear but hold the clutch in and rev it does it blow? __________________ -whatever you do, just be awesome. - 2008 Kawasaki Versys - 2016 CSC TT250
	0

08-22-2016, 10:15 AM	#14
2LZ Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Volcano, Ca Posts: 7,081	If I was at a craps table, I'd be betting on the guys throwing the dice for the wiring coming out of the tranny behind the countershaft cover. __________________ "Light a fire for a man, and you heat him for a day. Light a man on fire, and you heat him for the rest of his life." 2007 Suzuki DRZ400S (SM convert) 2009 Q Link XP 200 1967 BSA B25 250cc Starfire 2022 Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 2023 Royal Enfield Scram 411 1948 Royal Enfield Model G 350
	0

08-21-2016, 08:26 PM	#5
Adjuster Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Deerfield Beach FL Posts: 1,410	You have a wire shorting/grounding out. Trace every wire, should not be too difficult to locate it. Look for pinched and burnt wires touching metal they shouldn't be. Take all plastics and engine covers off to check the wires and connections under them. /
	0

08-21-2016, 08:36 PM	#6
Adjuster Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Deerfield Beach FL Posts: 1,410	I would also look very closely at the ignition/key switch and your kill switch and all their associated wiring. Internals of the switches. It sounds like something is grounding out your ignition system which is exactly what your kill switch is designed to do. /
	0

08-21-2016, 10:19 PM	#8
celswick13 Join Date: Jun 2016 Posts: 19	Not sure what everyone uses for "electrical tape" here, but I figure I'd mention this for those that aren't aware of it. I use a more rubberized, stretchy, type of electrical tape, versus the vinyl stuff everyone thinks of first. I have two kinds. Rubber mastic http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Scotch...BA-5/202195402 and Temflex splicing tape. http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-3-4-in...2155/202195401 These bond to themselves after stretching. They are more moisture resistant, and deal with much higher temps. I have used this to make cover entire car wiring harnesses before. I also use it to cover areas of wire that deal with vibration and abrasion, as well as possible heat. Basically, it just last longer and is more reliable when exposed to elements. You can see some on the sparkplug wire in this pic, which I used to wrap the coil signal wire for my vapor dash unit. I've since redone it, but you get the idea of what it looks like. I even have some wrapped around the plug boot itself, to cover the coil wires wrapped around it.
	0

08-21-2016, 11:01 PM	#10
Adjuster Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Deerfield Beach FL Posts: 1,410	Another idea to track down your electrical short is as soon as you blow a fuse get your nose down there and start smelling around. Electrical shorts put off that distinct electrical smoke smell. /
	0

08-22-2016, 07:09 PM	#15
PNWDualRider Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Washington Posts: 87	UPDATE Found the problem... A zip tie snapped and there was a wire that rested against the exhaust pipe, melted the plastic and exposed the wires. Once I pulled the break lever. The wiring moved and it would touch the frame, grounding out and popping fuse. I fixed it all and placed new zip ties on. All is fixed👍 __________________ 2016 CSC TT250 2006 Zongshen ZS200GY-2 *1973 Honda SL100
	5