Apollo 36 250cc Basics

apollo36 · 07-13-2016, 01:01 PM

Hey guys. New member, new to dirt bikes. I recently bought the Apollo agb36 250

. I plan to ride it on the trails and the track. The bikes been put together and have been driving it around a little bit, but have problems. Researching online, looks like some of the problems are common and there are some basic changes/upgrades that need to be done to the bike to get it in good shape and reliable (not really performance upgrades). Can we get a list together and make it sticky, so there is one place to look for these?

Some of things that I came across (in this forum and elsewhere):

NGK sparkplugs
DPR8EA-9 / DR8EA / D8EA

Mikuni Carb (for idling and throttle issues)
The mikuni should be a vm26 30mm size. Either way, start with a 115 main jet and 30 pilot with the pilot screw at 1.5 turns out.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/30mm-Mikuni-...-/262202860867

Bleed the brakes with DOT4 brake fluid

Change the oil (engine/transmission and Fork oil) before starting the bike
Recommended oil to use?

Put new and better Fuel Hose on the bike (add a fuel filter while you are at it)
Which fuel filter?

Check/set the Valve Clearance before you ride the first time
How is this done?

Tighten bolts/nuts
LOCTITE® THREADLOCKER BLUE 242

Anything more to do?

Thanks!

humanbeing · 07-13-2016, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by apollo36

Change the oil (engine/transmission and Fork oil) before starting the bike
Recommended oil to use?

Check/set the Valve Clearance before you ride the first time
How is this done?

-Oil debate isn't fun.
It shares the SAME oil in wet-clutch bike, so a wet-clutch friendly (meets JASO MA) is need... Shell Rotella in white container is 1 of the candidate (available anywhere/ meets JASo MA) & CHEAP...
ATF is mentioned in Honda shop manual as fork oil... I would say try the feeling 1st. Forks from good maker (Honda admits maker's name http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detai...4-GFM-J11.html to public finally) doesn't need change ANYthing. Apollo is a dirt bike sold worldwide NOT some on/off model that focus on Latin America market...
-Different market = Different bike CG(ohv) Ref to TT250 on CSC https://www.cscmotorcycles.com/Articles.asp?ID=293 CB(ohc) Ref to CRF230 info

Weldangrind · 07-14-2016, 12:04 PM

Welcome to the forum!

rossw · 10-03-2016, 11:10 AM

Great list, any updates on what you did and used?

JMM · 02-12-2017, 12:42 AM

Subscribed for future references

Kaifune · 03-12-2017, 10:23 PM

Just finished the Mikuni carb swap and spark plug. I was going to do valves also but I've lost my valve gauge. So another day. Working casually but steadily and figuring it out from scratch the job took about 10 hours. I've done a bit of back-yard mechanics, but I'd say if you can change brakes on a car, this is a thing you can do.

A few odds and ends I can offer. These will make sense when you get there. First off I have a 2016 Apollo 250rx which seems no different from earlier models. Now the things of note:
The Cap on the stock carb was riveted in place. I used a dremel with a cutting wheel to take it off (careful not to cut the throttle cable).
You'll have to drop the rear subframe to get the air box and tube detached from the carb (two bolts on top come out, one on each side gets loosened. One of mine was stripped from the factory. Then just push the rear frame down onto the rear tire).
There's a shallow "U" bent pipe the carb mounts to. That will have to come off to get the carb out out of the frame. Be careful not to damage the gasket mounting it to the engine.

Everything else seemed straight forward to me, but everyone has different blind spots. I'm happy to share what knowledge I gained.

Results: I couldn't have imagined. It's a different bike. I do have a caveat here. I let it warm up slow, did the air/fuel - idle. Rode for 10ish minutes slowly around the yard, then on the road to go to the top of the first four gears. That being said, it started fine and idled well for the first time ever. Throttle response existed! It was good! No hesitation, sputtering, or popping. Front wheel left the ground in first and second when I cracked it... it's never done that without lots of encouragement. Well worth the time, money, and effort.

Lvnfast954 · 04-20-2017, 12:37 AM

Hello I am new to the forum so I'm not even sure if this question belongs here. I have a 2012 apollo rx and am in need of a new front rim (amongst other things). I found a 2010 apollo dx rim on ebay and was wondering if they are both 21 in will it work? Also I'm pay 40 for rim and tire and 20 for shipping, would also like your thoughts on the price. Thanks in advance!!!
Don

whitelightning85 · 03-08-2020, 04:44 PM

So I'm looking to swap out to one of the Mikuni clone carbs as the stock is running super lean and bogging/dying as soon as I give it any throttle and if I'm going to mess with it, might as well replace the whole thing.

Question though: I was planning on getting a carb that also comes with the air filter that runs directly off the side of it, what do you do with the hose to the airbox then and do you just let the airbox just be there and open, do I close it off somehow? There's also another tube that goes from the airbox down to another part of the engine, how does that affect it? Do I remove the airbox completely? Any help is appreciated. I've watched a ton of videos but I can't seem to find one that does a good job installing one. Or should I just buy a carb that I use everything else stock on the bike?

I'm pretty illiterate to motorcycle lingo so it's ok if you answer like you are telling a 10 year old. lol.

EDIT: Side note, my spark plug tips keep turning black which usually would indicate it's running rich, correct? So frustrating. lol.

Its_not_a_honda · 03-08-2020, 05:37 PM

I think the hose you are referring to is a crankcase vent tube. Put a small filter on it. Do not plug it. Your engine will build too much presure and possibly leak oil. You could run a pipe to the air box from the carb and mount the filter in it. I did this out of necessity when changing to an aftermarket shock.

Its_not_a_honda · 03-08-2020, 05:43 PM

I think the hose you are referring to is a crankcase vent tube. Put a small filter on it. Do not plug it. Your engine will build too much presure and possibly leak oil. You could run a pipe to the air box from the carb and mount the filter in it. I did this out of necessity when changing to an aftermarket shock. Sorry picture is sideways.

whitelightning85 · 03-08-2020, 07:03 PM

Yes thats the tube. Thanks.

But you ran a pipe up into the air box from the carb, did you have to customize anything? And what if I didn't run a pipe up to the airbox and put the filter in there, how would I close off the opening where your pipe is going into it?

Also, it is a pain in the @ss to get to the carb on this bike. lol.

Its_not_a_honda · 03-08-2020, 08:02 PM

I retained the complete stock crankcase vent as it came from the factory. I still use the air cleaner box that is sealed. I don't know if you can see, but I fabbed up a plate on the front of the box for the pipe to run thru. That way I maintain negative crankcase pressure. Keep the oil in the engine and not blowing out the seals.
The carb isn't too bad to get off. You ought to try to get the air box out. It will come right out very easy. It is like a puzzle. Once you get it turned just right, slides right out.

07-14-2016, 12:04 PM	#3
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Welcome to the forum! __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

03-08-2020, 04:44 PM	#8
whitelightning85 Join Date: Feb 2020 Location: Tampa Bay Area Posts: 53	So I'm looking to swap out to one of the Mikuni clone carbs as the stock is running super lean and bogging/dying as soon as I give it any throttle and if I'm going to mess with it, might as well replace the whole thing. Question though: I was planning on getting a carb that also comes with the air filter that runs directly off the side of it, what do you do with the hose to the airbox then and do you just let the airbox just be there and open, do I close it off somehow? There's also another tube that goes from the airbox down to another part of the engine, how does that affect it? Do I remove the airbox completely? Any help is appreciated. I've watched a ton of videos but I can't seem to find one that does a good job installing one. Or should I just buy a carb that I use everything else stock on the bike? I'm pretty illiterate to motorcycle lingo so it's ok if you answer like you are telling a 10 year old. lol. EDIT: Side note, my spark plug tips keep turning black which usually would indicate it's running rich, correct? So frustrating. lol. Last edited by whitelightning85; 03-08-2020 at 04:55 PM. Reason: forgot info
	0

03-08-2020, 05:37 PM	#9
Its_not_a_honda Join Date: Jan 2018 Posts: 410	I think the hose you are referring to is a crankcase vent tube. Put a small filter on it. Do not plug it. Your engine will build too much presure and possibly leak oil. You could run a pipe to the air box from the carb and mount the filter in it. I did this out of necessity when changing to an aftermarket shock. __________________ 2020 Kawasaki KLX300R, 2018 Yamaha TW200 If you want more of something, tax it less. If you want less of something, tax it more.
	0

03-08-2020, 05:43 PM	#10
Its_not_a_honda Join Date: Jan 2018 Posts: 410	I think the hose you are referring to is a crankcase vent tube. Put a small filter on it. Do not plug it. Your engine will build too much presure and possibly leak oil. You could run a pipe to the air box from the carb and mount the filter in it. I did this out of necessity when changing to an aftermarket shock. Sorry picture is sideways. __________________ 2020 Kawasaki KLX300R, 2018 Yamaha TW200 If you want more of something, tax it less. If you want less of something, tax it more.
	0

03-08-2020, 08:02 PM	#12
Its_not_a_honda Join Date: Jan 2018 Posts: 410	I retained the complete stock crankcase vent as it came from the factory. I still use the air cleaner box that is sealed. I don't know if you can see, but I fabbed up a plate on the front of the box for the pipe to run thru. That way I maintain negative crankcase pressure. Keep the oil in the engine and not blowing out the seals. The carb isn't too bad to get off. You ought to try to get the air box out. It will come right out very easy. It is like a puzzle. Once you get it turned just right, slides right out. __________________ 2020 Kawasaki KLX300R, 2018 Yamaha TW200 If you want more of something, tax it less. If you want less of something, tax it more.
	2

10-03-2016, 11:10 AM	#4
rossw Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada Posts: 58	Great list, any updates on what you did and used?
	0

02-12-2017, 12:42 AM	#5
JMM Join Date: Feb 2017 Posts: 58	Subscribed for future references
	0

03-12-2017, 10:23 PM	#6
Kaifune Join Date: Sep 2016 Posts: 19	Just finished the Mikuni carb swap and spark plug. I was going to do valves also but I've lost my valve gauge. So another day. Working casually but steadily and figuring it out from scratch the job took about 10 hours. I've done a bit of back-yard mechanics, but I'd say if you can change brakes on a car, this is a thing you can do. A few odds and ends I can offer. These will make sense when you get there. First off I have a 2016 Apollo 250rx which seems no different from earlier models. Now the things of note: The Cap on the stock carb was riveted in place. I used a dremel with a cutting wheel to take it off (careful not to cut the throttle cable). You'll have to drop the rear subframe to get the air box and tube detached from the carb (two bolts on top come out, one on each side gets loosened. One of mine was stripped from the factory. Then just push the rear frame down onto the rear tire). There's a shallow "U" bent pipe the carb mounts to. That will have to come off to get the carb out out of the frame. Be careful not to damage the gasket mounting it to the engine. Everything else seemed straight forward to me, but everyone has different blind spots. I'm happy to share what knowledge I gained. Results: I couldn't have imagined. It's a different bike. I do have a caveat here. I let it warm up slow, did the air/fuel - idle. Rode for 10ish minutes slowly around the yard, then on the road to go to the top of the first four gears. That being said, it started fine and idled well for the first time ever. Throttle response existed! It was good! No hesitation, sputtering, or popping. Front wheel left the ground in first and second when I cracked it... it's never done that without lots of encouragement. Well worth the time, money, and effort.
	0

04-20-2017, 12:37 AM	#7
Lvnfast954 Join Date: Apr 2017 Posts: 1	Hello I am new to the forum so I'm not even sure if this question belongs here. I have a 2012 apollo rx and am in need of a new front rim (amongst other things). I found a 2010 apollo dx rim on ebay and was wondering if they are both 21 in will it work? Also I'm pay 40 for rim and tire and 20 for shipping, would also like your thoughts on the price. Thanks in advance!!! Don
	0

03-08-2020, 07:03 PM	#11
whitelightning85 Join Date: Feb 2020 Location: Tampa Bay Area Posts: 53	Yes thats the tube. Thanks. But you ran a pipe up into the air box from the carb, did you have to customize anything? And what if I didn't run a pipe up to the airbox and put the filter in there, how would I close off the opening where your pipe is going into it? Also, it is a pain in the @ss to get to the carb on this bike. lol.
	0