Roketa Lifan 200cc stator and electrical help

sgjames · 07-17-2015, 12:16 AM

Hey folks.
I did my home work, and double the effort, considering not very much is abundant OR useful for the off brand motor owner. I have experience, more then the average newbie, in small engines and bikes and quads. This is my latest purchase/ project, a Roketa enduro. The past owners insurance card listed RSM200, research shows Lifan 200cc engines are the same as well. The engine code, 163FM1, doesnt bring much, but if the last number is actually an "L" then 163FML brings results. I have also seen compatible things such as the GY6 engine. My first question is what do i really have?

Now, what i am needing help with is the wiring. After riding lately, the battery holds no charge, I found several shorts, my blinkers would die when i applied brakes, i had little or no tail lights o brake lights, head lights would work sporadically... I just bit the bullet, stripped down, and re wired.
I found several wiring diagrams, and info, some basic electronic knowledge and ohming out switches, wires, etc. I'm damn close.

http://planetminis.com/forums/attach...3&d=1257355683

the above I found in a chinarider forum
http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=14124

So once I found a rub on one of the wires coming from the stator, I decided to pull it all out and start from the solder points. From the stator itself I had 4 wires, White, Green, Yellow, and Red w/ Black tracer. From the "pick up", I have 2 wires, Green, and a Blue w/ White. Both greens tied together, and I had a total of 5 wires coming from the "magneto regions". I rewired it all back to the CDI and Rectifier, leaving out all accessories. Fired up fine.

Wires up all accessories, tapped into a 12v supply to check everything, and it was successful. So I installed the new battery, and took a ride. Something still seems a bit off. I check while running, at the battery terminals, for DC voltage, and it read 12.22. After turning off, the battery (as expected) slowly rose to 12.6. But it should be reading 14 or so and it's not, so rectifier? I pulled the battery and checked for voltage again, at the leads for the battery, and it only read around 3 volts. Rectifier, right?

They're cheap enough, and I have one on order...

I diode tested it as well, and got .434 between two leads, and .840 or so through the third (which i think was the ground and hot (red) lead). From the research i've done, I should have 3 spots that read an almost equal number one way, and not in reverse polarity.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/F8EjV0IjW9Q" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

So checked at the wires, while the stator was installed, checking for continuity between the stator leads and the engine case itself, and was getting ZERO resistance between the two, when I should be getting infinite resistance, correct?

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/f8MmrXsEpjQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I plan on pulling it back out and double checking it all in hand, but would love to know the answer to this question when i do. Can I rotate the stator to the opposite holes and get different results? When i pulled it, I noticed one coil had a heavy wrapping of insulator, and it was on the opposite side of the starter opening. What if I spin the stator to the other bolt holes and the insulated part is at the opposite side?

I also ordered a new one since they are cheap enough.... it should arrive by next week with the rectifier, as well as a replacement CDI.

So my rectifier has 5 wires, Black (ignition hot), Red (battery hot all times), green (ground), pink (stator, my white wire), and yellow (stator, white wire). My CDI had 6 wires wired up, Black w/ white (kill) Black w/ yellow (coil), Green (ground), Green w/ white or yellow tracer (went to stator but original wiring too far shot to tell which wire), Blue w/ white (pick up had blue w/ white, so i wired it to that), and a Black w/ red (stator had a black w/ red that I assume went to the CDI). As it's wired it runs. Does that speak for itself, or could I still be having something in the wrong spot?

Hopefully some one here has been where i am, or knows enough to help me get out of ignorance, and understand a bit more. I may get lucky and have the new stator, CDI, and rectifier labeled and have coordinating wires... that be asking a bit, huh?

Thanks folks, I appreciate any help you can give.

07-17-2015, 12:16 AM	#1
sgjames Join Date: Jul 2015 Posts: 7	Roketa Lifan 200cc stator and electrical help Hey folks. I did my home work, and double the effort, considering not very much is abundant OR useful for the off brand motor owner. I have experience, more then the average newbie, in small engines and bikes and quads. This is my latest purchase/ project, a Roketa enduro. The past owners insurance card listed RSM200, research shows Lifan 200cc engines are the same as well. The engine code, 163FM1, doesnt bring much, but if the last number is actually an "L" then 163FML brings results. I have also seen compatible things such as the GY6 engine. My first question is what do i really have? Now, what i am needing help with is the wiring. After riding lately, the battery holds no charge, I found several shorts, my blinkers would die when i applied brakes, i had little or no tail lights o brake lights, head lights would work sporadically... I just bit the bullet, stripped down, and re wired. I found several wiring diagrams, and info, some basic electronic knowledge and ohming out switches, wires, etc. I'm damn close. http://planetminis.com/forums/attach...3&d=1257355683 the above I found in a chinarider forum http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=14124 So once I found a rub on one of the wires coming from the stator, I decided to pull it all out and start from the solder points. From the stator itself I had 4 wires, White, Green, Yellow, and Red w/ Black tracer. From the "pick up", I have 2 wires, Green, and a Blue w/ White. Both greens tied together, and I had a total of 5 wires coming from the "magneto regions". I rewired it all back to the CDI and Rectifier, leaving out all accessories. Fired up fine. Wires up all accessories, tapped into a 12v supply to check everything, and it was successful. So I installed the new battery, and took a ride. Something still seems a bit off. I check while running, at the battery terminals, for DC voltage, and it read 12.22. After turning off, the battery (as expected) slowly rose to 12.6. But it should be reading 14 or so and it's not, so rectifier? I pulled the battery and checked for voltage again, at the leads for the battery, and it only read around 3 volts. Rectifier, right? They're cheap enough, and I have one on order... I diode tested it as well, and got .434 between two leads, and .840 or so through the third (which i think was the ground and hot (red) lead). From the research i've done, I should have 3 spots that read an almost equal number one way, and not in reverse polarity. <iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/F8EjV0IjW9Q" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> So checked at the wires, while the stator was installed, checking for continuity between the stator leads and the engine case itself, and was getting ZERO resistance between the two, when I should be getting infinite resistance, correct? <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/f8MmrXsEpjQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> I plan on pulling it back out and double checking it all in hand, but would love to know the answer to this question when i do. Can I rotate the stator to the opposite holes and get different results? When i pulled it, I noticed one coil had a heavy wrapping of insulator, and it was on the opposite side of the starter opening. What if I spin the stator to the other bolt holes and the insulated part is at the opposite side? I also ordered a new one since they are cheap enough.... it should arrive by next week with the rectifier, as well as a replacement CDI. So my rectifier has 5 wires, Black (ignition hot), Red (battery hot all times), green (ground), pink (stator, my white wire), and yellow (stator, white wire). My CDI had 6 wires wired up, Black w/ white (kill) Black w/ yellow (coil), Green (ground), Green w/ white or yellow tracer (went to stator but original wiring too far shot to tell which wire), Blue w/ white (pick up had blue w/ white, so i wired it to that), and a Black w/ red (stator had a black w/ red that I assume went to the CDI). As it's wired it runs. Does that speak for itself, or could I still be having something in the wrong spot? Hopefully some one here has been where i am, or knows enough to help me get out of ignorance, and understand a bit more. I may get lucky and have the new stator, CDI, and rectifier labeled and have coordinating wires... that be asking a bit, huh? Thanks folks, I appreciate any help you can give.
	0