Losing My Sense of Humor...and oil.

[jbfla]

Originally Posted by madsocial

.....

On another note, we'll be in West Palm Beach for month in March. Are you near there?

I'm on the other side of the state, about 25 miles east of Tampa.

March 10-19 is Daytona Bike Week if you like crowds.

I usually make a day trip to see the manufacturer displays of the new bike models.

jb

[jbfla]

Originally Posted by madsocial

..... I just got in the habit of inspecting them all before I ride. It's a bit time consuming, but when you have lost as many as I have it's worth the time.....

I do a pre-ride inspection also.

I had stopped for lunch an hour before the engine died.

While putting on my gear...jacket, ear plugs, helmet, and gloves... I did a walk-a-round, and there was no evidence of an oil leak.

jb

[jbfla]

Originally Posted by BlackBike

....Thus the valve cover Jammed the rocker arm causing the seize when you tried to turn it over with the electric starter.
....

The valve adjuster bolt did hit the jammed valve cover.



jb

[jbfla]

Originally Posted by BlackBike

...How? How does a tightened cover bolt just back out. Did you forget to tighten after checking valves? .....CRAP

I've been pondering what happened.

The simplest explanation is that I didn't tighten the bolts enough, and they vibrated loose.

I could take responsibility for that except for the stripped threads in the hole where the missing bolt was, and the "galling" on the bolt on the exhaust valve cover, which resulted in another stripped hole.

I know the threads were not stripped only 500 miles earlier. I wouldn't have been able to fasten the cover, and would not have ridden the bike.

In addition, "galling" is usually caused by over-tightening the bolt in soft metals, as in soft aluminum and soft steel.

[jbfla]

As for the fix...

I'm leaning toward using Time-serts. It's probably the most expensive option, but I will be able to use the stock bolts.

Though I am concerned that I may not be able to get clear access to the holes, especially on the exhaust side, with a power drill, and a tap.

Gerry, at CSC, is not sure, but thinks I may have to remove the engine to do the job properly.

If that is the case, I am not sure I even want to try...might just glue the bolts in the stripped holes, and wait until I can trailer the bike to my shop in NC this spring.

Currently the bike is parked. The weather here is so nice, sunny and mid 70'sF, that I don't want to spend it in the garage...been riding the other bike every day.

jb

[BlackBike]

Originally Posted by jbfla

As for the fix...

I'm leaning toward using Time-serts. It's probably the most expensive option, but I will be able to use the stock bolts.

Though I am concerned that I may not be able to get clear access to the holes, especially on the exhaust side, with a power drill, and a tap.

Gerry, at CSC, is not sure, but thinks I may have to remove the engine to do the job properly.

If that is the case, I am not sure I even want to try...might just glue the bolts in the stripped holes, and wait until I can trailer the bike to my shop in NC this spring.

Currently the bike is parked. The weather here is so nice, sunny and mid 70'sF, that I don't want to spend it in the garage...been riding the other bike every day.

jb

searching...time-serts

[jbfla]

Originally Posted by BlackBike

searching...time-serts

It's a steel threaded insert that is a permanent repair that uses the original size bolt.

It is expensive. A "one size" kit is about $75 US.

And you have to supply your own tap handle.

***The tap in the photo is a custom size, to fit the oversize threads of the insert.***

jb

[BlackBike]

So you drill out your hole .22mm larger with their bit then back in with the insert. I see said the blind man.

[jbfla]

Originally Posted by BlackBike

So you drill out your hole .22mm larger with their bit then back in with the insert. I see said the blind man.

[Emerikol]

JBFLA, that looks very similar to a Heli-Coil. We used them all the time in the service. I have had, on rare occasion, a heli-coil jump the threads when putting it in, or when backing out the replacement bolt. Not very often, just often enough to a) be annoying as all hell, and b) bear mentioning to the rest of the world. Back to the repairs, though: You would be amazed at how many airplanes fly out with repairs just bodged together. I actually sent an airplane out with a duct-tape fix once... What a world we live in. The damage to your valve cover doesn't look too bad, maybe a few minutes with a swiss pattern file will clean up the rough edges. The groove for the O-ring looks like it's in pretty good shape so it should seal no problem. As for removing the engine, I think that would absolutely be the way to go. I was in Tampa a few weeks ago so I know what you're talking about with the WX down there. Blue skies and perfect riding temps. Hope you get it fixed soon, or at least patched back together enough to enjoy one or two more rides before you dig into a permanent repair.

[jbfla]

Originally Posted by Emerikol

JBFLA, that looks very similar to a Heli-Coil. We used them all the time in the service. I have had, on rare occasion, a heli-coil jump the threads when putting it in, or when backing out the replacement bolt......

That's why I prefer the Time-sert. When done properly, the bottom of the threaded insert expands in the hole, and is less likely to come out.

There is much difference of opinion as to which thread repair method is better.

I've already ordered and received a new valve cover and o-ring/gasket. Great service from CSC!

jb

[ben2go]

I have used time certs. They are excellent in areas with thin walls and where aluminum may crack. Helicoils will back out. Time certs have never backed out on me.

[jbfla]

Curiosity as to whether or not the engine will start got the best of me.

Not the best location to attempt this type of repair, but all I have at hand.

After disconnecting a few electrical connections, and using the drill bit extension, I was able to drill out the hole with the stripped threads for the intake valve cover.





A standard tap handle didn't have room to turn, so I used the short-handled adjustable wrench to turn the tap, a 1/2 turn at a time.






After cleaning out the newly tapped hole with compressed air, I used the install tool to seat the Time-sert in the hole:




New valve cover, o-ring, and bolts.

Bolts were lightly coated with anti-seize, 6mm lockwashers added, then fastened down.




On the exhaust side, there wasn't enough room to follow the same procedure, so I used a longer bolt to catch the few threads that were still left at the bottom of the stripped hole.

The bolt "bottomed out" so I added washers and a lock washer to shim the bolt head. That seemed to work.

Now to see what happens when I push the starter button......

For the first second or two I was really worried...sounded like someone banging metal pans together, and then....


http://vid42.photobucket.com/albums/...psfk13m1t8.mp4


The valves sounded a bit loud, but no obvious knocking sounds.

Took a ride around the neighborhood. The engine power seemed the same as usual, and there wasn't any oil leaking on my pant leg.

It was another great sunny and warm riding day, so I decided to live dangerously, and ride the same 100 mile loop as before.

What's the worst that could happen?

I even took a small detour and rode a few miles of dirt (sand):



Made it home a few hours later with no drama, and no oil leaks.

There is still the matter of the temporary fix for the bolt on front valve cover.

If I remove the front fork tubes, I think there will be room to put an insert in that stripped hole.

The fork oil needs to be changed anyway.

For now, I'll ride the bike as is.

jb

[ben2go]

That is a perfect time cert repair. Excellent work.

[BlackBike]

Shade tree mechanic extraordinaire

We dodged another bazoka.

You couldn't stand to be without your RX buddy for long.