New CSC TT250

[2LZ]

Be REALLY careful pulling the sprocket bolts. They're locktited into aluminum. I heated mine with a propane green bottle torch and worked them out gently.
DO NOT over-tighten. It will hog out the threads in the aluminum hub. I'd drop some blue locktite on them and then a nice snug.

I went with the 47 and love it but we have very little open road here. It made it more relaxed on the pavement but still kept a nice 1st for trails.

[DaveinOC]

Thanks for the suggestions 2LZ. The CSC YouTube has the torque at 35ft. lbs. Does your experience suggest that this is too much? I think I read a post where someone stripped their hub, and suggested more like 20ft.lbs.?

[BlackBike]

Check those bolts. Order parts needed and back on the road. Unless your ready for a lawsuit,/legal settlement shakedown path which is how we got the state high prices in the first place.

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by DaveinOC

Thanks for the suggestions 2LZ. The CSC YouTube has the torque at 35ft. lbs. Does your experience suggest that this is too much? I think I read a post where someone stripped their hub, and suggested more like 20ft.lbs.?

I set my torque wrench at 35 and made it to "not 35" when I felt one get a tad gummy so I stopped. I hand snugged the rest. It must be good enough with the new locktite because they';ve stayed tight.
Make sure and run a tap down the holes in the hub to clean the old locktite and gunk out.

[DaveinOC]

Thanks for the tips 2LZ. I wouldn't have believed how much heat it took to get those bolts out if you hadn't mentioned it. I bought both the 47 tooth from CSC and the 45 on Amazon, mostly to get the new bolts and spacers. I should have measured them but the are definitely at least 5mm longer, maybe a bit more. My guess is that they are 10mm longer so with the approx. 5mm for the two spacers it seems like there is another 5mm or so of threads with the new bolts. That's fine with me.

Using a tap to clean up the threads, on mine at least, showed that the threads were not smooth near the bottom. It was definitely more than just dried thread locker, that's for sure as I had to work the tap a bit to get it to the bottom. The tap, some oil, followed by brake cleaner fixed that.

The 45 tooth is great for the street, which is probably about all mine will ever see. The stock chain was okay in length without shortening it, so I will replace it with the Unibear next time I feel like messing with it.

Now to change the fork oil to something better than that fish oil and maybe I can get the suspension under control. I only just passed the 100 mile mark so I want to break it in further before changing the exhaust to something that works and sounds like a motorcycle instead of a lawn mower...

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by DaveinOC

Thanks for the tips 2LZ. I wouldn't have believed how much heat it took to get those bolts out if you hadn't mentioned it. I bought both the 47 tooth from CSC and the 45 on Amazon, mostly to get the new bolts and spacers. I should have measured them but the are definitely at least 5mm longer, maybe a bit more. My guess is that they are 10mm longer so with the approx. 5mm for the two spacers it seems like there is another 5mm or so of threads with the new bolts. That's fine with me.

Using a tap to clean up the threads, on mine at least, showed that the threads were not smooth near the bottom. It was definitely more than just dried thread locker, that's for sure as I had to work the tap a bit to get it to the bottom. The tap, some oil, followed by brake cleaner fixed that.

The 45 tooth is great for the street, which is probably about all mine will ever see. The stock chain was okay in length without shortening it, so I will replace it with the Unibear next time I feel like messing with it.

Now to change the fork oil to something better than that fish oil and maybe I can get the suspension under control. I only just passed the 100 mile mark so I want to break it in further before changing the exhaust to something that works and sounds like a motorcycle instead of a lawn mower...

Glad all went well for you. We broke ours in bone stock, then at 500, a complete disassembly with pics for the masses here, with upgrades.
I used 10W Bel Ray for the forks. Worked well. Some swear by synthetic ATF. Up to you.

[DaveinOC]

I pulled the forks and drained them yesterday. Each held about 270ml - not the 330 ml the CSC maintenance PDF calls for. I also have a strange and somewhat troubling issue with a difference in the damper click stops. The left fork has over 3-1/4 full turns of travel and about 35 somewhat sorta click stops (some feel like clicks others are hard to discern) while the right has about 1-1/3 turns or about 12 sort of clicks.

I drained the forks and refilled with 330 ml each of Bel Ray 10W fork oil. (Somehow fork oil just is just SUPPOSED to be blue dontchathink?) I am going to try starting out with about 6 clicks from minimum (clockwise) setting on each. However the difference in total adjustment bothers me. Can anyone else with a TT250 tell me how many clicks or approximate turns of total adjustment we are supposed to have? I may call CSC anyway to see what they say. BTW this is not new or related to the fluid change; I noted this the first day I got the bike and wanted to adjust the fork damping.

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by DaveinOC

I pulled the forks and drained them yesterday. Each held about 270ml - not the 330 ml the CSC maintenance PDF calls for. I also have a strange and somewhat troubling issue with a difference in the damper click stops. The left fork has over 3-1/4 full turns of travel and about 35 somewhat sorta click stops (some feel like clicks others are hard to discern) while the right has about 1-1/3 turns or about 12 sort of clicks.

I drained the forks and refilled with 330 ml each of Bel Ray 10W fork oil. (Somehow fork oil just is just SUPPOSED to be blue dontchathink?) I am going to try starting out with about 6 clicks from minimum (clockwise) setting on each. However the difference in total adjustment bothers me. Can anyone else with a TT250 tell me how many clicks or approximate turns of total adjustment we are supposed to have? I may call CSC anyway to see what they say. BTW this is not new or related to the fluid change; I noted this the first day I got the bike and wanted to adjust the fork damping.

I refilled mine with what came out, plus 10ml. If you completely disassembled the forks, 330 is the complete measured amount but what I was told here when I did mine is that you don't get it all out by a flip and drip.
I adjusted my dampeners all the way in (clockwise) and out a full turn. Seems to be fine.