Hawk Talk - Page 38

BigWeld · 04-08-2017, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeremyC

Thanks for the heads up! That's the exact chain I grabbed off ebay due to your suggestion.

I'm a new Hawk owner (just left TX on a brown truck), but have been lurking a few weeks. I also have the mikuni knockoff and jets coming, and will be performing surgery on the header pipe and air box right off the bat.

You might consider running the engine in first Jeremy, for the long term health of the bike. I personally have horrible self-restraint when it comes to my right hand grip, but I want my bike to perform fantastic for years to come........so my performance pipe will stay nice in it's box until the 500 mile mark.

Ariel Red Hunter · 04-08-2017, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeremyC

Thanks for the heads up! That's the exact chain I grabbed off ebay due to your suggestion.

I'm a new Hawk owner (just left TX on a brown truck), but have been lurking a few weeks. I also have the mikuni knockoff and jets coming, and will be performing surgery on the header pipe and air box right off the bat.

Please read the Ariel Handbook description down below, post #542, and decide if that is the run in metheod you wish to follow. I wouldn't change anything, except the oil, for the first 500 miles....ARH

Ariel Red Hunter · 04-08-2017, 01:16 PM

I want you to think about not only the desired amount of throttle used in break-in (running-in), but the statement about many heat and cooling cycles, and it's influence on motor cycle engine life. In other words, don't blow through the running-in process in two or three days. Many short trips is the trick, according to them (and they are not the only ones to mention this)....ARH

JeremyC · 04-08-2017, 03:08 PM

I plan on running it in with those directions, just with a known good carb, proper jets and free-flowing exhaust.. you know, the stuff it should come with to start with LOL! I figure there's no point in fighting a lean condition and plugged pipe for that long, when most other bikes come set up properly. It'll be babied for those 1st 500 miles.

JeremyC · 04-08-2017, 03:12 PM

Actually, I doubt it will hardly ever see red line after break-in.

chuck · 04-08-2017, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeremyC

Actually, I doubt it will hardly ever see red line after break-in.

That's what I thought too !!!!!

JeremyC · 04-08-2017, 03:28 PM

Well, maybe once in a blue moon, but with my health issues, I can guarantee it'll be babied. It's mainly going to be used for getting to the woods, and weekend cruising on gravel backroads. It'll only see mud when I have no other option (who wants to spend an hour washing that off every time out?).

Ariel Red Hunter · 04-08-2017, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeremyC

I plan on running it in with those directions, just with a known good carb, proper jets and free-flowing exhaust.. you know, the stuff it should come with to start with LOL! I figure there's no point in fighting a lean condition and plugged pipe for that long, when most other bikes come set up properly. It'll be babied for those 1st 500 miles.

That's all right. But the problem is the jets. The Mikuni comes too lean also. Now if you leave the stock exhaust on, you can get by with the jets the carb comes with. The only way I know to get the right main jet is to run a well warmed up bike the better part of a mile at wide open throttle, and do a plug chop. So, do as you please, but at least think about these points...ARH

Ariel Red Hunter · 04-08-2017, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by goat67

Let me know if you need any help getting them set up in you user profile

Oh, yeah. I am totally lost about how to do that kind of stuff....ARH

Ariel Red Hunter · 04-08-2017, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by green_hawk250

Dear Ariel Red Hunter, just want to thank you for sharing with us the wealth of your knowledge and experience. I catch myself a number of times returning to your comments thinking "What ARH says about this and that?" Finally I've collected almost all of your comments from this thread into one single file (slightly rearranged). It could be downloaded from here -

http://www.mediafire.com/file/l4udsz...pr+5+20127.doc

I named it "ARH Wisdom book". This file will be updated on a regular basis as well.

Thank you for being with us.

I appreciate the thought, it should be useful to the younger more computer savvy guys 'n gals amongst us. But I couldn't get it to open because I'm not about to buy Windows Office...ARH

JeremyC · 04-08-2017, 09:59 PM

Yeah, I have jets on the way to get it close.. much closer than the stock carb. I ordered the 30 pilot and a 117.5 and 120 main. I'm only at 440Ft elevation, so I think I'll be close. Plug chops will be reserved for after break-in.

Ariel Red Hunter · 04-10-2017, 01:09 PM

Valve adjustments are really pretty easy to do. After all I did it. On the Red Hunter, I just put the little beastie in second gear, pulled the plug, rolled the rear wheel in the ahead direction, with my finger over the plug hole. When I felt pressure, I knew I was on the compression stroke. So then I stuck a drinking straw in the spark plug hole, rotated the rear wheel some more until the straw had come all the way up, and just started on the way back down. Then I checked the inlet and exhaust valve clearance by the Ariel method. "When you rotate the push rods, make sure that the inlet rotates freely, and the exhaust has just perceptable shake. That is the correct valve clearance." How nice it would be if it was that easy on a Hawk. But, even so, you don't have to be absolutely at top dead center, a few degrees past works fine. So, you don't have to be anal retentive about TDC, just past works just as well. See? It really is simple...ARH

green_hawk250 · 04-11-2017, 12:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

I'm not about to buy Windows Office...ARH

This is the same file in .rtf format. It is larger than in Word format. Any Wordpad (the part of the Windows system) would be capable to open it.
Thank you.

http://download2014.mediafireuserdow...Apr+5+2017.rtf

Ariel Red Hunter · 04-11-2017, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by green_hawk250

This is the same file in .rtf format. It is larger than in Word format. Any Wordpad (the part of the Windows system) would be capable to open it.
Thank you.

http://download2014.mediafireuserdow...Apr+5+2017.rtf

Hey, thanks for that link. Worked perfectly....ARH

Ariel Red Hunter · 04-13-2017, 12:37 PM

I was talking about J.A.P. engines the other day. Originally, all motorcycle engines had drip feed total loss oiling. Usually with a hand pump to give it a little more oil while hill climbing. About one pump every thirty seconds on a steep hill. The good feature of this system is that the engine always got fresh oil. The bad feature was that the engine didn't get enough oil to assist in cooling it. So, it limited horsepower. More horsepower means more heat. The oil was usually not fed to the bearings, it was squirted into the crank case, where the crankshaft whirled it into an oily fog, somewhat like a two stroke does. So, the J.A.P. engine for many years was a total loss engine, and, in fact, you can still buy an "80 Bore" J.A.P. engine new that is total loss oiling. For racing only, of course. But, the independent manufacturers of motor cycles that didn't make their own engines started to pressure JAP to provide an engine that had a dry sump system. So the 500cc and 350cc JAP's got a sort of hybred oiling system. It had pressure feed to the big end, and that was it. They had a v cast into the crank case walls so that oil spraying off of the crankpin onto the crank case walls, to run down to the v's and the vee's had a hole at the foot, and this allowed oil to drip on the main bearings. There was a hole cast in to the timing side case to allow oil mist to get to the cams and timing gears, which then ran down to a trench in the bottom of the timing case, where the cams would dip, picking up oil. But how to get the oil to the overhead valves and rockers? Crank case pumping. Yes, that's how they did it, by oil mist carried up by crank case pressure, and exhausted at the head through a ball valve which only let the air out. Usually a hose was attached to this valve to let the excess oil drip in the chains. While it sounds crazy, it worked....ARH

04-08-2017, 01:16 PM	#558
Ariel Red Hunter Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: akwesasne, NY-13655 Posts: 2,220	Ariel Owners Guide, pt2 I want you to think about not only the desired amount of throttle used in break-in (running-in), but the statement about many heat and cooling cycles, and it's influence on motor cycle engine life. In other words, don't blow through the running-in process in two or three days. Many short trips is the trick, according to them (and they are not the only ones to mention this)....ARH
	1

04-10-2017, 01:09 PM	#567
Ariel Red Hunter Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: akwesasne, NY-13655 Posts: 2,220	Valves. Valve adjustments are really pretty easy to do. After all I did it. On the Red Hunter, I just put the little beastie in second gear, pulled the plug, rolled the rear wheel in the ahead direction, with my finger over the plug hole. When I felt pressure, I knew I was on the compression stroke. So then I stuck a drinking straw in the spark plug hole, rotated the rear wheel some more until the straw had come all the way up, and just started on the way back down. Then I checked the inlet and exhaust valve clearance by the Ariel method. "When you rotate the push rods, make sure that the inlet rotates freely, and the exhaust has just perceptable shake. That is the correct valve clearance." How nice it would be if it was that easy on a Hawk. But, even so, you don't have to be absolutely at top dead center, a few degrees past works fine. So, you don't have to be anal retentive about TDC, just past works just as well. See? It really is simple...ARH
	0

04-08-2017, 03:08 PM	#559
JeremyC Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Southern IL Posts: 132	I plan on running it in with those directions, just with a known good carb, proper jets and free-flowing exhaust.. you know, the stuff it should come with to start with LOL! I figure there's no point in fighting a lean condition and plugged pipe for that long, when most other bikes come set up properly. It'll be babied for those 1st 500 miles.
	0

04-08-2017, 03:12 PM	#560
JeremyC Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Southern IL Posts: 132	Actually, I doubt it will hardly ever see red line after break-in.
	0

04-08-2017, 03:28 PM	#562
JeremyC Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Southern IL Posts: 132	Well, maybe once in a blue moon, but with my health issues, I can guarantee it'll be babied. It's mainly going to be used for getting to the woods, and weekend cruising on gravel backroads. It'll only see mud when I have no other option (who wants to spend an hour washing that off every time out?).
	0

04-08-2017, 09:59 PM	#566
JeremyC Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Southern IL Posts: 132	Yeah, I have jets on the way to get it close.. much closer than the stock carb. I ordered the 30 pilot and a 117.5 and 120 main. I'm only at 440Ft elevation, so I think I'll be close. Plug chops will be reserved for after break-in.
	0

04-13-2017, 12:37 PM	#570
Ariel Red Hunter Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: akwesasne, NY-13655 Posts: 2,220	I was talking about J.A.P. engines the other day. Originally, all motorcycle engines had drip feed total loss oiling. Usually with a hand pump to give it a little more oil while hill climbing. About one pump every thirty seconds on a steep hill. The good feature of this system is that the engine always got fresh oil. The bad feature was that the engine didn't get enough oil to assist in cooling it. So, it limited horsepower. More horsepower means more heat. The oil was usually not fed to the bearings, it was squirted into the crank case, where the crankshaft whirled it into an oily fog, somewhat like a two stroke does. So, the J.A.P. engine for many years was a total loss engine, and, in fact, you can still buy an "80 Bore" J.A.P. engine new that is total loss oiling. For racing only, of course. But, the independent manufacturers of motor cycles that didn't make their own engines started to pressure JAP to provide an engine that had a dry sump system. So the 500cc and 350cc JAP's got a sort of hybred oiling system. It had pressure feed to the big end, and that was it. They had a v cast into the crank case walls so that oil spraying off of the crankpin onto the crank case walls, to run down to the v's and the vee's had a hole at the foot, and this allowed oil to drip on the main bearings. There was a hole cast in to the timing side case to allow oil mist to get to the cams and timing gears, which then ran down to a trench in the bottom of the timing case, where the cams would dip, picking up oil. But how to get the oil to the overhead valves and rockers? Crank case pumping. Yes, that's how they did it, by oil mist carried up by crank case pressure, and exhausted at the head through a ball valve which only let the air out. Usually a hose was attached to this valve to let the excess oil drip in the chains. While it sounds crazy, it worked....ARH
	1