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Old 01-14-2018, 06:29 PM   #136
Ariel Red Hunter   Ariel Red Hunter is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thehawk View Post
It's just a rubber spacer, has 6302 on one side. Fits perfectly over the spacer tube. But the outside edge doesn't fit anywhere I can see. It's too big to fit in the middle of the hub, too small to actually got anywhere else. It came out after I had one bearing out and was trying to knock the other side out. I removed the tube, then as I was hitting the other side, this came out with my socket that I was using to try and push the bearing out with. Has 6302 on the side, But the bearings I removed do have there seals on both sides.
I believe that is a centering spacer for the spacer tube. It makes it easier to get the axle spindle lined up with the metal tube, and simplify assembly line work. You will find it a lot easier to re-assemble if you put it back in there. Can you imagine the difficulty of getting it to all line up without the rubber spacer?...ARH


 
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Old 01-14-2018, 06:51 PM   #137
Megadan   Megadan is offline
 
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I agree with that assessment. The weird part is, mine was apparently missing lol
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Old 01-14-2018, 06:53 PM   #138
thehawk   thehawk is offline
 
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Where's it supposed to go? It fits nicely around the tube, but the outside edge doesn't match up to anything. I might be able to force it into the center of the hub if I make it go in kinda crooked, but I don't think its going to go in straight. Does it just sit on the end like it is in the picture above?


 
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Old 01-14-2018, 07:15 PM   #139
thehawk   thehawk is offline
 
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If yours was missing, and it still rides fine guess its not something to really worry much about. I think Ill leave it right where it is then. It seems to be the only place it really fits anyways.


 
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Old 01-19-2018, 12:47 PM   #140
thehawk   thehawk is offline
 
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Anyone know where I can get a list of ideal torque specs for the bolts? I have some time this weekend and am planning on finishing putting everything back together with locktight on all the places that need it (like the screws that hold on the brakes). But I worry about breaking bolts or stripping things so am looking for the torque specs.


 
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Old 01-19-2018, 01:09 PM   #141
Megadan   Megadan is offline
 
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I use the values for most of these parts as posted by CSC for the TT250. You can usually find the values toward the bottom of the articles.

http://www.cscmotorcycles.com/TT250-Tutorials-s/283.htm

Rear brake caliper bolts are 22ft-lbs.
Rear Axle Nut is 35ft-lbs.
Sprocket Nuts/Bolts 35ft-lbs.

Just don't forget to use blue loctite on the bolts.
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Old 01-19-2018, 01:31 PM   #142
thehawk   thehawk is offline
 
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Oops, forgot to put lock tight on those dang sprocket bolts.... I don't want to take those things back off again. That lock ring holding it on was a pain to get off and reinstall! By any chance, lock tight wont work by just putting it on a already tight bolt will it..

By the way, great link!! that site has a lot of valuable info.


 
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Old 01-19-2018, 01:43 PM   #143
Megadan   Megadan is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thehawk View Post
Oops, forgot to put lock tight on those dang sprocket bolts.... I don't want to take those things back off again. That lock ring holding it on was a pain to get off and reinstall! By any chance, lock tight wont work by just putting it on a already tight bolt will it..

By the way, great link!! that site has a lot of valuable info.
You do need to remove the nuts in order to add loctite, but you shouldn't have to remove the sprocket. Just take the nuts off, add loctite, re-tighten in a criss cross pattern.

By the way, if you go to Habor Freight or Northern Tool, you can pick up a pair of external snap ring pliers for less than 10 bucks. This is the proper tool for the job of removing that snap ring that retains the rear sprocket, and it makes it much easier.
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Old 01-20-2018, 02:52 PM   #144
thehawk   thehawk is offline
 
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Does anyone have any tips on how to true a tire? Can this be done by yourself? or do I need to take it somewhere?

Ok, so all bearings changed, all greased and lock tighted up (except that head bearing). but, while on the lift I spun the tires. They are not true and wobble. Now, I will be honest and say that the front could have been my fault because I tried tightening the spokes by watching a youtube video (start from air port to have a start/stop point, every 4th spoke all the way around, 1/4 a turn each until tight, then to the second over, then third, then back to spoke closest to air until all are tight), but the back wheel was not done yet (and does have loose spokes still that need to be tightened). Either way, both are out of wack. Any ideals on how to correct this?


 
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Old 01-20-2018, 03:15 PM   #145
pistolclass   pistolclass is offline
 
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check out this video.


 
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Old 01-20-2018, 03:17 PM   #146
pistolclass   pistolclass is offline
 
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https://www.harborfreight.com/motorc...and-98488.html

dont forget your 20% off coupon.


 
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Old 01-20-2018, 11:29 PM   #147
Megadan   Megadan is offline
 
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That video explains it perfectly. Just be patient. Once you get the wheel trued it should stay that way with regular spoke tightening. Ideally, the wheel should be trued first, and then the tightening method you used to finish it up.
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