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Old 05-15-2009, 12:59 AM   #1
FastDoc   FastDoc is offline
 
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OK, I bought the thing. Pics and questions!

I bought the 250 Kinroad Dual Exhaust. Or Motofino, which is what it was called on the fairing. Who knows...

$1200. 2008 with 40 km on the clock, still in it's protective plastic and with the nubbins still on the tires. Titled through 1/2009.

I did a full prep on it, and the way this bike was assembled, that's a good thing. Lots of Locktite, and grease. I pulled and greased the wheels, changed the oil and cleaned the filter, hcecked the brakes, adjusted the headset, removed the plastic, replaced the battery with a sealed unit, aired the tires, properly lubed and adjusted the chain, and gave it a proper wash and wax.

It rides well. 65 mph is no problem, so when it's broken in and regeared I bet 70+ will be easy enough. It handles well, and it's pretty comfortable. Vibration is not excessive.

OK, my questions:

It needs higher gearing. What are my options? Any links to parts?

The lights are poor. Quite dim. Is this the way they are or is this unusual. Funny I could not check the voltage with the bike running. I guess it's a nor resistor plug and it made my digital voltmeter go haywire when it's running. I wonder if I might have a charging problem.

The gas gauge did not work. I found a broken yellow wire, so I fixed it and the gauge works, but it's the darndest thing. When I start the bike the instrument quits and goes to E. The only way it works is with the ignition on and the motor off. What's up with that? The instument lights are also weak, but the brake lights, horn, and blinkers seem normal enough.

Are these bikes prone to electical issues? Is this normal?













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Old 05-15-2009, 07:50 PM   #2
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C'mon guys, help me diagnose this electrical issue. If I'm not charging and get stuck I'll be pushing!
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Old 05-16-2009, 12:22 AM   #3
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OK. I rode it 100 km today and it still runs so I figure it's charging. I can see the headlight brighten when I blip the throttle so I figure its all good.

My rear sprocket seems to be a 41, the front is a 15. I think I can get a 16 or a 17 in the front. Any input on that? It looks like I'd ned to do at least a little grinding but I can't tell for sure.

Any info and/or sources on the sprockets?

The rear style seems identical to my HSUN. Ditto the front, just different sizes.

Seems like a good little bike, time will tell.
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Old 05-16-2009, 12:33 AM   #4
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Will this work on the back? Too small?

JT SPROCKET JTR269.35T JTR269.35
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Old 05-16-2009, 10:14 AM   #5
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is it a 3 valve or a 4 valve i havent seen a engine like that 8O did you ever think of checking the valve lash with a camara i would love to see under that valve cover
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Old 05-16-2009, 11:01 AM   #6
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To verify it's charging, just unhook the neg side battery cable while it's running. If the bike dies, it's running off the battery and not charging. As for your tank sending unit/gauge issue, I'd verify the gauge or sending unit isn't wired backwards. Definitely sounds like a wiring issue.
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Old 05-16-2009, 04:00 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phil
is it a 3 valve or a 4 valve i havent seen a engine like that 8O did you ever think of checking the valve lash with a camara i would love to see under that valve cover
Two valve.


IDK about wether or not the front sprocket will work or not, but the rear one can probly be changed out like an LB sprocket since we use the same style rim. If you can take a close up of your rear rim then I can tell. PMP has your rim specs if so.
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Old 05-16-2009, 06:00 PM   #8
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i still have to know about that dual port exhaust its too cool not to have a purpose, please dont tell me its a dummy pipe :?
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Old 05-16-2009, 08:53 PM   #9
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i wouldnt rely on the unhooked battery use a volt meter check the voltage with key off it should be about 12.5 then crank it up when its running it should read 13-14 volts you may need to rev it a little i had a atv that was wired wrong (can you beleive that) it would run but wouldnt charge
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Old 05-16-2009, 09:07 PM   #10
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I can't answer any of your questions, but I did want to say... Nice looking bike you have there!

Thanks for the pics.
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Old 05-16-2009, 09:52 PM   #11
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Electrical is not my strong spot, but I would go with Phil's method. Works for me on Cub Cadets and lawn tractors that don't charge or over charge.

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Old 05-17-2009, 01:32 AM   #12
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Thanks guys. It's a true dual exhaust. One exhaust valve with 2 ports, kinda like an old VW. Not sure what performance advantage it has but it seems to do something.

One of the mirrors fell off today. Smashed to bits. Oh well. I removed both and installed regular handlebar mirrors. Looks better and works much better.

I rode it about 100 miles today. I like it, but it really needs much higher gearing. I'll take a close up of the real wheel tomorrow and post it for advise.

Right now it hits the rev limiter at about 65 MPH, but I think it will do a 'relaxed' 70 if geared correctly. What is China thinking when they sleect their ratios?
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Old 05-17-2009, 01:33 AM   #13
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Oh yeah. The electrics appear to be sound.
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Old 05-17-2009, 02:18 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FastDoc
What is China thinking when they sleect their ratios?
The procedure is to calculate weight/power output ratios, considering wind resistance and drag factors, integrate internal gear ratios into the equation and then extrapolate ideal teeth count to minimise wear and sprocket chordal action. Then fit whatever they find in the parts bin...
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Old 05-21-2009, 03:55 PM   #15
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Sprockets

I may be able to help you with the sprockets - I have a 37 tooth rear from a Hi-bird that may be the same pattern.

Send me a PM and I'll get you the dimensions.


 
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