Templar X 250 - Page 79

NCtemplar250 · 02-19-2023, 10:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Imposing Will

I put a Nibbi PE28 clone on mine. 125/42 I believe jetting wise, didn't touch the needle. Air/fuel @ 1.5ish out on the fuel screw. Runs really really good now, idle is consistent, and no more stalling. Plug looks great. I had it running fine with the stock carb, rejetted with similar settings-but it absolutely runs better with the Nibbi.
Ironically-the Nibbi on my Kayo K2 is finicky. ?? I'll try to get good pics of mine on the X, but it fit perfectly. No issues, maybe a little better honestly.

Any chance of still getting some pics? I really want to get this carb, but I'd like to see it's fitment if possible. Thanks so much in advance!

GypsyR · 02-20-2023, 02:11 PM

I put the handguards on that tknj99 turned me onto in his review thread. Not being so thrilled with the bright alloy I hit the metal parts with some flat black. In retrospect semi-gloss would have been better. I expect neither to be very durable really. The bars have a bend in them which I put facing "down". Might flip them later so they go up and see if I like them better that way. Or not. They are coming back off in any case because I'm not thrilled with the stock grips.
These guards are far from the best quality but fine for like $21 on Amazon. tknj99 mentioned the bits that go inside the bars were too big for the openings. I thought of threading the bar ends and using bolts but figured then I'd have to work out how to not stick the throttle by trimming it or whatever. So I drilled the ends out. Looks like a 14mm would be ideal but all I had was a 9/16" which is really close and seems to have worked fine.

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/BQRSz3fR/gaurds2.jpg[img]

Following Thumper's guide I drilled the rear shock's lower hole about 3/4" higher. Realizing I'd have to pull all the rear subframe so I drilled it in place. Which I don't recommend for accuracy but it came out all right for me. This dropped my seat height enough where I don't quite have to tippy-toe now so I'm happy about that even though I had to sacrifice a little suspension travel. Now it barely leans on the kickstand so next I guess I'll slice about an inch off the kickstand and weld the pad back on. Or replace it. Hmmm.

You guys talking about carb jet swaps failed to mention what a tricky devil the carb is to winkle out of there. But anyway I was all about slotting the bowl screws and heating them to get them out. Nope. Just grinding the heads off and taking them out with vice grips like you guys said is the way to go. Popped the cover off the idle mix adjustment and rejetted to what the other low altitude folks are running. (I've already forgotten the numbers.) I still haven't ridden it but it sounds better in the garage already. No more popping and stalling after the choke is off.

Since I had the tank off I flipped it and did some plastic welding with a soldering gun and a strip of plastic from a black anti-freeze bottle. Looks like butt but quit leaking. Max-Pro says a new replacement and the other shipping damaged stuff will be on the way shortly but I didn't want to wait.

Part of that damaged was a rub on the seat. What I saw when I really looked was some of the stitching so I restitched it with upholstery thread and am calling it good as new.

I didn't like not having a grommet where the wires go through the rear fender so I added one from a grommet kit I have. Also a daub of RTV in the center to help keep wheel spray off the air filter. I then realized I am an idiot in that I had "extra" wires in that rear harness. Turns out that if you plug your tail light in all those extras disappear. One wire had pulled out of it's bullet. Not being sure if my crimp style bullets would match I didn't bother trying. I opened up the existing one and recrimped it.

MCO came. It says "off road" on it. We'll see if the South Carolina DMV cares or not before too long.

Come to find out if you have it sitting on the stand running with the wheel turned left you can melt a (little) notch in the tail of the fender with the exhaust pipe. (Before re-jetting). Whoops. Maybe I'll shim the fender for a bit of angle to try for some clearance.

Thumper · 02-20-2023, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GypsyR

Following Thumper's guide I drilled the rear shock's lower hole about 3/4" higher. Realizing I'd have to pull all the rear subframe so I drilled it in place. Which I don't recommend for accuracy but it came out all right for me. This dropped my seat height enough where I don't quite have to tippy-toe now so I'm happy about that even though I had to sacrifice a little suspension travel. Now it barely leans on the kickstand so next I guess I'll slice about an inch off the kickstand and weld the pad back on. Or replace it. Hmmm.
...
...
...

I'm glad the lowering worked. Be careful not to overtighten the bolts holding the lower linkage together. Better to use locktite and leave the bolts slightly loose so that the linkage can flex.

Any time you want to remove the rear shock without removing the rear subframe, no problem. Take the seat off. If you cut the right plastic cover, you don't have to remove the luggage rack to get the right plastic cover off either. But remove the exhaust pipe. Then the rear shock pulls right out the side, pulling it out by the ballonet.

Here is the right cover cut mod. It allows you to pull it off with the luggage rack in place. It is the 1st two pics in this thread:
https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...postcount=1167

The right plastic cover mod is useful for exhaust removal. The rack can stay there while you do it.

GypsyR · 02-20-2023, 07:32 PM

I didn't trim the side cover on the optimistic hope that I won't be needing to get back into that area much if at all. Besides which a new side cover is on the way.

The bike behind it and a few others have taught me a master course in the use of Loc-Tite, with a minor in safety wiring. I had an Ossa years and years ago that shed a part every lap one time. It kept going but it was still embarrassing.

WeebleWobble · 02-21-2023, 11:09 PM

Got mine together enough to take it for a ride down the road and back. Fired right up but it's obvious it needs to be rejetted (pops and backfires off throttle) and didn't want to idle (no adjustments made yet).

To do list:
1)Put blue thread lock on all bolts I didn't touch during assembly.
2)Remove triple clamp and grease bearings (my bike came with the forks installed on the bike. Apparently earlier bikes didn't have the forks installed. There are two assembly videos on Youtube. The older one shows the forks/triple clamp installation as part of the assembly, the other doesn't)
3)Install 1" handlebar risers once they arrive later this week
4)Install hand guards purchased on Amazon (see link in tknj99 review thread)
5)Do Thumper's rear shock lowering mod
6)Rejet the carb

Have a 44 tooth rear sprocket off Ebay to try out once I get everything above sorted.

Thumper · 02-22-2023, 05:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tknj99

I'm curious it makes any difference.. I had installed an orange non-adjustable cdi on my former Titan DLX that also claimed to advance the timing and remove rev limit, and other than rev limit, i couldn't really tell any difference power-wise

I took it on the trail and it runs great!! My son rode the Storm. Nice ride. One half turn out of two available turns. I would like to know approximate BTDC values

I still don't have enough miles on it to go crazy at higher RPMs but it does seem to lift the front wheel easier. FUN

Thumper · 02-22-2023, 05:45 AM

Check the intake manifold (singlefold

). Mine had no gasket. I think it leaked, leaned it out and destabilized the idle. I used red high temp RTV to seal it. Don't use much- it will squeeze into the inside and potentially obstruct air flow. But doing that and rejetting stabilized my idle.
Did you order a big idle adjustment knob? Thats in my Templar threads in pics and video section or the resource sticky ( well worth the whopping $6 !!)

Quote:

Originally Posted by WeebleWobble

Got mine together enough to take it for a ride down the road and back. Fired right up but it's obvious it needs to be rejetted (pops and backfires off throttle) and didn't want to idle (no adjustments made yet).

To do list:
1)Put blue thread lock on all bolts I didn't touch during assembly.
2)Remove triple clamp and grease bearings (my bike came with the forks installed on the bike. Apparently earlier bikes didn't have the forks installed. There are two assembly videos on Youtube. The older one shows the forks/triple clamp installation as part of the assembly, the other doesn't)
3)Install 1" handlebar risers once they arrive later this week
4)Install hand guards purchased on Amazon (see link in tknj99 review thread)
5)Do Thumper's rear shock lowering mod
6)Rejet the carb

Have a 44 tooth rear sprocket off Ebay to try out once I get everything above sorted.

tknj99 · 02-22-2023, 07:38 AM

For me, sealing the intake manifold seemed to have helped initially but it still does the gulp for air and wanting to stall every cold start I need to hold the choke open for awhile before i let it try to idle.. Did that fuel filter replacement make any difference? I recall you mentioning that as a potential cause as well

Thumper · 02-22-2023, 08:01 AM

I can't be sure if the new fuel filter helped. The bike has been sitting (cold out). I added a gallon of premium to a low tank before the ride. I keep the idle at 1200 or more, which eliminates any problem. But I need to ride it more to really be sure if the problem is gone.

GypsyR · 02-22-2023, 02:18 PM

Finally managed to get home before dark and my first thought was to at least get it out around the back yard. And I did. First impression was "crap this seat is hard".

But anyway seems like it will be all right. Definitely need to tweak the shocks. Checked to see if the taillight was on this time, yep. Brake light? Nope. Have to look at that. Did pretty well other than that. Decent power for what I want to do I think. Didn't make but about ten easy laps. Fender still touching the exhaust at certain points, I neglected to see to that yet.

To-do list getting smaller. Got insurance on it. Agent didn't recognize the VIN or make at all but managed to push it through as a "dual sport". I have some tax to pay and then it will be time for a run at the DMV.

Bought a higher amp battery as some of you guys recommended. Not sure how I feel about replacing a perfectly good new battery with another slightly better one but what the heck, it was cheap. Still in the box though.

If you guys think there might be an issue with the fuel filter I might throw one of those on. When I had the carb I pulled the intake too. I put it back on with a thin coat of Permatex Aircraft Sealer gasket sealant. I'm not fond of RTV in contact with fuel/air mixture. I would have used anaerobic sealer but that's the one thing I'm out of.

Oh, gotta aim the headlight. As it started getting dark I realized I was well set to inspect the trees. More stuff to do but that's all right.

TemplerX79 · 02-22-2023, 03:56 PM

I have a question on the lowering and measurement redrilling the lower mount. When you all are saying drill 5/8 or 3/4 or 1 “ are you talking center of hole to center of hole or distance from outside edge of hole? Just want to make sure, better to measure twice and cut once!

GypsyR · 02-22-2023, 05:32 PM

I called mine the center of the existing hole to the center of the new hole at 3/4". There's different ways of measuring how to do so. I just went by how Thumper did his.

Thumper · 02-22-2023, 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TemplerX79

I have a question on the lowering and measurement redrilling the lower mount. When you all are saying drill 5/8 or 3/4 or 1 “ are you talking center of hole to center of hole or distance from outside edge of hole? Just want to make sure, better to measure twice and cut once!

I measure center to center.

WeebleWobble · 02-22-2023, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thumper

Check the intake manifold (singlefold

). Mine had no gasket. I think it leaked, leaned it out and destabilized the idle. I used red high temp RTV to seal it. Don't use much- it will squeeze into the inside and potentially obstruct air flow. But doing that and rejetting stabilized my idle.
Did you order a big idle adjustment knob? Thats in my Templar threads in pics and video section or the resource sticky ( well worth the whopping $6 !!)

Yes on the idle adjustment knob. Ordered mine from Ebay on 2/4. I see the seller has since changed his listing and no longer ships to the U.S.
He probably lost money listing it for 3.52 GBP ($4.27) shipped. As such, it's on the slow boat to me. Hoping to see it before 4/10 but not in need of it before then.

Took the advice to email XPROUSA. Got a response next day that they'd sent out a updated M.C.O and B.O.S.

NCtemplar250 · 02-22-2023, 10:33 PM

So, has anyone done an oil cooler on the Templar X yet?

I was thinking about this kit, but I'm not sure how to confirm if it will fit the X 6-speed motor?

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Aluminum-Radiator-100CC-250CC-85ml-Silver/dp/B082NSDMBF/ref=psdc_15737301_t2_B07WGVPT3C?th=1

02-21-2023, 11:09 PM	#1175
WeebleWobble Join Date: Feb 2023 Location: Washougal, WA Posts: 47	Got mine together enough to take it for a ride down the road and back. Fired right up but it's obvious it needs to be rejetted (pops and backfires off throttle) and didn't want to idle (no adjustments made yet). To do list: 1)Put blue thread lock on all bolts I didn't touch during assembly. 2)Remove triple clamp and grease bearings (my bike came with the forks installed on the bike. Apparently earlier bikes didn't have the forks installed. There are two assembly videos on Youtube. The older one shows the forks/triple clamp installation as part of the assembly, the other doesn't) 3)Install 1" handlebar risers once they arrive later this week 4)Install hand guards purchased on Amazon (see link in tknj99 review thread) 5)Do Thumper's rear shock lowering mod 6)Rejet the carb Have a 44 tooth rear sprocket off Ebay to try out once I get everything above sorted. __________________ Templar X 250 Yamaha XSR900 Kawasaki Brute Force 750 Yamaha TT-R 50
	1

02-22-2023, 07:38 AM	#1178
tknj99 Join Date: Oct 2020 Location: Central VA Posts: 1,255	For me, sealing the intake manifold seemed to have helped initially but it still does the gulp for air and wanting to stall every cold start I need to hold the choke open for awhile before i let it try to idle.. Did that fuel filter replacement make any difference? I recall you mentioning that as a potential cause as well __________________ 2024 Zuma Storm 150 DLX 2019 Beta 430 RRS 2017 Honda Fury Former China Bikes: Tao DBX1, Brozz 250, CSC RX4, Titan DLX, Templar X
	0

02-22-2023, 08:01 AM	#1179
Thumper Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Kansas City Posts: 2,278	I can't be sure if the new fuel filter helped. The bike has been sitting (cold out). I added a gallon of premium to a low tank before the ride. I keep the idle at 1200 or more, which eliminates any problem. But I need to ride it more to really be sure if the problem is gone. __________________ -2022 5 speed Templar X Orange, OEM 51T rear sprocket, 14T front sprocket -NOS 2020 KTM 250SX (2-stroke motocross), less than 10 hours on it
	1

02-20-2023, 02:11 PM	#1172
GypsyR Join Date: Feb 2023 Location: Upstate SC Posts: 272	I put the handguards on that tknj99 turned me onto in his review thread. Not being so thrilled with the bright alloy I hit the metal parts with some flat black. In retrospect semi-gloss would have been better. I expect neither to be very durable really. The bars have a bend in them which I put facing "down". Might flip them later so they go up and see if I like them better that way. Or not. They are coming back off in any case because I'm not thrilled with the stock grips. These guards are far from the best quality but fine for like $21 on Amazon. tknj99 mentioned the bits that go inside the bars were too big for the openings. I thought of threading the bar ends and using bolts but figured then I'd have to work out how to not stick the throttle by trimming it or whatever. So I drilled the ends out. Looks like a 14mm would be ideal but all I had was a 9/16" which is really close and seems to have worked fine. [img]https://i.postimg.cc/BQRSz3fR/gaurds2.jpg[img] Following Thumper's guide I drilled the rear shock's lower hole about 3/4" higher. Realizing I'd have to pull all the rear subframe so I drilled it in place. Which I don't recommend for accuracy but it came out all right for me. This dropped my seat height enough where I don't quite have to tippy-toe now so I'm happy about that even though I had to sacrifice a little suspension travel. Now it barely leans on the kickstand so next I guess I'll slice about an inch off the kickstand and weld the pad back on. Or replace it. Hmmm. You guys talking about carb jet swaps failed to mention what a tricky devil the carb is to winkle out of there. But anyway I was all about slotting the bowl screws and heating them to get them out. Nope. Just grinding the heads off and taking them out with vice grips like you guys said is the way to go. Popped the cover off the idle mix adjustment and rejetted to what the other low altitude folks are running. (I've already forgotten the numbers.) I still haven't ridden it but it sounds better in the garage already. No more popping and stalling after the choke is off. Since I had the tank off I flipped it and did some plastic welding with a soldering gun and a strip of plastic from a black anti-freeze bottle. Looks like butt but quit leaking. Max-Pro says a new replacement and the other shipping damaged stuff will be on the way shortly but I didn't want to wait. Part of that damaged was a rub on the seat. What I saw when I really looked was some of the stitching so I restitched it with upholstery thread and am calling it good as new. I didn't like not having a grommet where the wires go through the rear fender so I added one from a grommet kit I have. Also a daub of RTV in the center to help keep wheel spray off the air filter. I then realized I am an idiot in that I had "extra" wires in that rear harness. Turns out that if you plug your tail light in all those extras disappear. One wire had pulled out of it's bullet. Not being sure if my crimp style bullets would match I didn't bother trying. I opened up the existing one and recrimped it. MCO came. It says "off road" on it. We'll see if the South Carolina DMV cares or not before too long. Come to find out if you have it sitting on the stand running with the wheel turned left you can melt a (little) notch in the tail of the fender with the exhaust pipe. (Before re-jetting). Whoops. Maybe I'll shim the fender for a bit of angle to try for some clearance.
	3

02-20-2023, 07:32 PM	#1174
GypsyR Join Date: Feb 2023 Location: Upstate SC Posts: 272	I didn't trim the side cover on the optimistic hope that I won't be needing to get back into that area much if at all. Besides which a new side cover is on the way. The bike behind it and a few others have taught me a master course in the use of Loc-Tite, with a minor in safety wiring. I had an Ossa years and years ago that shed a part every lap one time. It kept going but it was still embarrassing.
	2

02-22-2023, 02:18 PM	#1180
GypsyR Join Date: Feb 2023 Location: Upstate SC Posts: 272	Finally managed to get home before dark and my first thought was to at least get it out around the back yard. And I did. First impression was "crap this seat is hard". But anyway seems like it will be all right. Definitely need to tweak the shocks. Checked to see if the taillight was on this time, yep. Brake light? Nope. Have to look at that. Did pretty well other than that. Decent power for what I want to do I think. Didn't make but about ten easy laps. Fender still touching the exhaust at certain points, I neglected to see to that yet. To-do list getting smaller. Got insurance on it. Agent didn't recognize the VIN or make at all but managed to push it through as a "dual sport". I have some tax to pay and then it will be time for a run at the DMV. Bought a higher amp battery as some of you guys recommended. Not sure how I feel about replacing a perfectly good new battery with another slightly better one but what the heck, it was cheap. Still in the box though. If you guys think there might be an issue with the fuel filter I might throw one of those on. When I had the carb I pulled the intake too. I put it back on with a thin coat of Permatex Aircraft Sealer gasket sealant. I'm not fond of RTV in contact with fuel/air mixture. I would have used anaerobic sealer but that's the one thing I'm out of. Oh, gotta aim the headlight. As it started getting dark I realized I was well set to inspect the trees. More stuff to do but that's all right.
	0

02-22-2023, 03:56 PM	#1181
TemplerX79 Join Date: Feb 2023 Posts: 7	I have a question on the lowering and measurement redrilling the lower mount. When you all are saying drill 5/8 or 3/4 or 1 “ are you talking center of hole to center of hole or distance from outside edge of hole? Just want to make sure, better to measure twice and cut once!
	0

02-22-2023, 05:32 PM	#1182
GypsyR Join Date: Feb 2023 Location: Upstate SC Posts: 272	I called mine the center of the existing hole to the center of the new hole at 3/4". There's different ways of measuring how to do so. I just went by how Thumper did his.
	0

02-22-2023, 10:33 PM	#1185
NCtemplar250 Join Date: Jan 2023 Location: North Carolina Posts: 44	So, has anyone done an oil cooler on the Templar X yet? I was thinking about this kit, but I'm not sure how to confirm if it will fit the X 6-speed motor? https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Aluminum-Radiator-100CC-250CC-85ml-Silver/dp/B082NSDMBF/ref=psdc_15737301_t2_B07WGVPT3C?th=1
	0