Hawk is here, yay!

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Megadan

It is a nice easy little project to do, and in my opinion a much better option for a bike that will possibly get wet. My mechanical switch was starting to squeak and the rod was showing signs of rust.

The mechanical switch isn't the best option for me as it get wet and full of sandy mud when I ride in the spillway. I always check brake lights and turn signals before every ride. Never fails that after a trip to the spillway I have to play around with it to get it to work again because it gets stuck from dried up grit that didn't get washed out form the previous trip.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

The mechanical switch isn't the best option for me as it get wet and full of sandy mud when I ride in the spillway. I always check brake lights and turn signals before every ride. Never fails that after a trip to the spillway I have to play around with it to get it to work again because it gets stuck from dried up grit that didn't get washed out form the previous trip.

Yep, same problem I have when I end up on some dirt tracks down by the Missouri River. That really fine sand and clay mud loves to somehow find its way into the rod. I had started carrying a small can of WD-40 to spray up into it to try and clear out the switch. Mine loved to get stuck in the on position. Now that problem should be eliminated.

[Megadan]

I love even numbers.

[Megadan]

Got my new CDI coil in. Just need to make up a new plug wire that has an HEI style wire end for the coil, then figure out of I can mount it up in place of the stock coil, or if I need to relocate it or make a bracket for it.

My attempts at advancing the pickup were thwarted for now. Slotting the bracket isn't a viable option due to the pickup bracket holes having dowels. There is the possibility of actually moving the pickup itself on said bracket since it looks to be bonded to it in a slot on the pickup itself. This is somewhat similar to how Jeep crank sensors are modified for more ignition advance, where the pickup is slid on the bracket itself.

I am going to wait until my VFR is back on the road before I go tearing into my Hawk for project purposes. So that is on hold for now.

The only other thing I did today was swap out the 13 tooth front sprocket for a 12 tooth. This gives me the same effective gearing as a stock tire with a 17/46 setup. While the 13/31 is great for munching up highway miles, I have been using my Hawk a lot more in the city itself, and I plan on doing more off-road adventures this summer. The 13/31 is just a bit too tall to try and power through loose surfaces or zip around in traffic for my liking.

The only thing I need to get used to now is shifting more often lol. I can still cruise along at 60mph at 6500rpm, and 65mph at 7000, so it can still quite easily do my 10 mile jaunt to work on the highway. No more 75mph top speed runs, but I am quite ok with that. I can still hit 70 lol.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Megadan

Got my crf230f intake in. Dead on perfect fit. Angles match the Hawk/TT250 intake perfectly. It also has the exact same o-ring as the stock manifolds. The one in the first picture is actually from the tt250 intake i had on hand.

The imperfections.
1. As stated before, it needs to be ported. The opening on the flange where it meets the head is about 27mm. Luckily, since the same o-ring is used it can easilybe opened up to the same 30mm as the stock intake.
2. The rubber on the insulator needs to also be reshaped a little. This intake is deaigned for keihins offset carb bore, so a centered bore means the roof needs to be shaved beck a bit.
3. The socket end is for a 39 or 40mm o.d. carb. This means I have to either utilize my 32mm OKO carb, or get my hands on a genuine VM30 or similar carb. Not really a downside, but it does limit your carb selection to 30mm unless you pick up a crf230f carb. There is nothing wrong with said carb, it is a 26mm unit and more than adequate to support the Hawk. The downside is that those carbs can be a bit expensive.

What is the part # for the crf230 carb insulator boot? Mine came in today but didn't have the right angle needed. It was one of the cheap China ones.
Is the part# 16210-KPS-900? Want to make sure before I order.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

What is the part # for the crf230 carb insulator boot? Mine came in today but didn't have the right angle needed. It was one of the cheap China ones.
Is the part# 16210-KPS-900? Want to make sure before I order.

That should be the right part number.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Megadan

That should be the right part number.

Thanks.