Rpoc

[cheesy]

Originally Posted by BlackBike

Worse yet, that button is probably soldered to a board too

That doesn't bother me much. If worse comes to worse, I can open up the hole on the back where the switch is and just solder leads to the board mounted switch and run them to the remote switch.

Stuff did happen today.


First headache was that the OD of new speedo is 88.5mm. The ID of the hole was 85.5mm. Started opening the hole with a Dremel and stone. After about ten minutes of this, and knocking off a whole .25mm, I glanced up and saw my air compressor. And then a light went on and I said to myself, "Self, are you an idiot, or what? There is a drawer in the big tool box with air tools. I bet if you look, there is a die grinder with a real stone in there. Jackass."

So, five minutes later, the speedo dropped in place. I also figured out that the big rubber ring on the Ural speedo wasn't for looks, but to lift the speedo high enough to clear a crossbar running through the nacelle. So, I needed to do some OE&F on that, too.


Then I called it a day. CX500 for the next week or so. Will see if I can still ride it.

[BlackBike]

That's where the dremmel will come in for the back of the case to extract the button. I used to scoff at the dremmel tool till my uncle raved so much about it that I broke down many years ago and got a set. I just used it to cut out a damaged bearing race on a rotary torso machine the other day, mighty handy indeed.

Looking good!

[cheesy]

Nothing done today. Long, hard, and hot day at work.

[cheesy]

Did some wiring today. Powers up; hi beam and neutral lights work. No luck wrapping the tach signal wire around the plug wire. Supposed to be cooler tomorrow and it's Friday. Maybe wrap things up late tomorrow night.

[BlackBike]

On my 250cc the tacho wire connected to the blue and white stripe wire between the mag stator and the cdi

I know Yours is probably different.

[cheesy]

Originally Posted by BlackBike

On my 250cc the tacho wire connected to the blue and white stripe wire between the mag stator and the cdi

I know Yours is probably different.

Probably, it's a Ducati Hall Effect system. But, it bears looking into.

[Weldangrind]

I found a Google reference to it on the CURD forum, but couldn't find the actual thread. Perhaps you'd care to sign up there so you can search the topic. BTW, it was a link from Soviet Steeds.

[humanbeing]

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=536139476392 had good tips.
Basics in that url =
Rpm signal can gotten from multiple locations. Find the least inference 1 by ur self (or shielded that wire)
1. the electronic rpm gauge line (some model had this, the signal is best)
2. IGN coil in (If don't had 1 recommend connects to here)
3. CDI's out
4. CDI's IN
5. Trigger's out
6. ECU's out...

[cheesy]

Thanks guys.

I registered for the CURD forum, Weld. Thank Ja for wikipedia if one isn't Canadian. Needed to know the name of the bridge to PEI to get registered and I didn't even remember one being there the last time I was to Cape Breton. (my kids were 10 and 6, now 38 and 34)

HB-1, 3, 4, 5, and 6 don't exist on the Ural, so #2 it is.

[cheesy]

Success.


There was a blue wire and a white wire at the coil, so I had 50% chance of getting it right the first time. I tried the blue one and found that the white one was the one I needed. This was still easier than getting the right turn signal hooked up. Ural seems to have their own color codes that change between harnesses, which slows things down a bit.

Still haven't dealt with the speedo pickup but that should be a piece of cake(famous last words)

[BlackBike]

A little aluminum and a bench vice worked nicely

[humanbeing]

Originally Posted by cheesy

...This was still easier than getting the right turn signal hooked up. Ural seems to have their own color codes that change between harnesses, which slows things down a bit...

Old sckool or modern bi-color LED circuit tester is good tool

[cheesy]

Originally Posted by humanbeing

Old sckool or modern bi-color LED circuit tester is good tool

So is a multi meter.

The wire color thing was aggravating. Orange at right front signal, light blue at the rear and neither of those colors were in the headlight bucket. Used my Beta MM with the sooper dooper pointy probes and found the white/red wire from the turn signal switch that was the one I needed. On the other side of the plug, the wire was gray/green. Not a lot of room in the rats nest to work, plus I gotta worry missing the wire with the probe and impaling my finger.

Gave up on finding a solenoid to press the reset button. Resorted to cutting part of the back off the speedo to access the switch and soldered leads and the remote button to it. It works. Also added a plug between the remote button and the speedo so I don't have to swear at myself when I put the speedo back in.

Just waiting for the JB Weld to set.

[Sport Rider]

Ya know....I haven't had to do a darn thing to my rig since I got it all put together.

[cheesy]

Originally Posted by Sport Rider

Ya know....I haven't had to do a darn thing to my rig since I got it all put together.

Ah, but putting it together did cause some headaches. That's why my CX is so boring now. Just gas up and go.

With some luck, I should wrap this up today.