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Old 12-15-2017, 11:18 AM   #1
Mudflap   Mudflap is offline
 
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Grease nipples won't work in the type of ball joints or tie rod ends used on the Rhino, at least I couldn't get them to work. I tried. They use a plastic insert to keep tension on the ball and there isn't enough room to screw in a zerk. I did have to replace the lower A arms/ball joints on my ATA250D last year because they were worn out.

Lots of sellers on Ebay for the clutch cable and one is on the way, I hope. Its difficult to get packages delivered down here in Arizona while camping out for the winter. Post offices in the area won't do general delivery.

I should be clear that the problems I've had with the Rhino are very minor and do not take away from the great bang for the buck you get when you buy one. I'd buy another one in a heartbeat. It might be useful for someone thinking about buying one to know what little things they may have to deal with.


 
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Old 12-17-2017, 10:35 AM   #2
FLASHLIGHTBOY   FLASHLIGHTBOY is offline
 
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grease nipplie

is the bottom of the ball joint not steel??? .. it is hard steel ,.,, need a good bit to drill.. and then tap.. I have done it before.... or one of those grease needles... to insert grease... to wash out the dirt and water that gets in there..
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Old 12-21-2017, 09:57 AM   #3
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The ball joint bottoms are sheet steel crimped in place. Easy to drill but there isn't enough space between the sheet steel and the ball itself for threads to bite and hold the zerk. Needles through the rubber would work if the rubber would stay in tact, but it's falling apart. I'll figure something out when I get home in March. In the meantime I've slathered some liquid electrical tape over the cracks.

Got the new clutch cable and will install it today.


 
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Old 01-17-2018, 01:57 PM   #4
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Swing arm cracked at about 250 hrs, much of it bouncing over large rocks. Cracked in the same place as the ATA250D. Had it welded by the same shop in Arizona so it probably won't happen again. Good thing to check before every ride.


 
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Old 01-17-2018, 05:56 PM   #5
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Do you have a picture of the crack on either ATV so we know where to look for it?

I'm a little concerned about mine with all the towing I do with the Rhino.


 
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Old 01-17-2018, 08:23 PM   #6
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Thanks for the pic.. much appreciated.


 
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Old 02-16-2018, 03:29 AM   #7
Mudflap   Mudflap is offline
 
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Right front outer wheel bearing disintegrated yesterday. About 280 hours on the quad. Bearing is a 6003-2RS. Sourced one locally and ordered several to keep on the shelf.

When calling around for parts I found the pricing very interesting. Carquest $39, NAPA $35, the Yamaha shop $117 (not kidding), eBay $10 for 10 bearings with free shipping.



Last edited by Mudflap; 02-16-2018 at 09:13 AM.
 
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Old 02-16-2018, 09:25 PM   #8
JRG3   JRG3 is offline
 
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bearing failures can be reduced greatly by cleaning and greasing after each ride but we all know most people won’t do that lol. I let my kids ride about 3 hrs on there brand new quads before checking the bearings. I found that almost every bearing had little to no grease in it. I since bought spares and checked a few right out of the package to find the same thing barely any grease in them. I highly recommend staying on top of greasing every moving part


 
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Old 05-08-2018, 12:06 PM   #9
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One of the rear axle bearings froze up and the axle spun inside it which damaged the axle. 311 hours on the Rhino. Ordered a new axle and bearings for about $95 total.


 
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Old 02-16-2018, 03:52 PM   #10
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Well, I experienced my very first, completely unacceptable failure with my Rhino.
I found the taillight hanging by the wires.
I may have to have a couple tonight to deal with the depression and utter frustration.
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Old 05-08-2018, 09:42 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2LZ View Post
Well, I experienced my very first, completely unacceptable failure with my Rhino.
I found the taillight hanging by the wires.
I may have to have a couple tonight to deal with the depression and utter frustration.
The new to me Rhino has a much smaller led taillight.
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Old 05-09-2018, 10:17 AM   #12
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These things sit for a long time in containers and warehouses before being sold so many times, right out of the box, the pilot jets are clogged. Hence, start, idle, no go.

The stock carbs are garbage and I'm not sure about anywhere else other than CA but not only are the bowl screws the little snap-off bastards but they red lock-tited the slide nut so I had to use a prop torch and channel locks to get the damn thing off so I could get the cable out to replace the whole mess.

Switching to a Mikuni VM26 for about 30.00 cures all ills and are easily jettable. Worth the upgrade. It will also eliminate that thumb choke that always comes loose so the little bolt hits the ground.

Manny has a long history and reputation of being a mega-sheister here. After what he did to Azhule, buyer beware.
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Old 05-09-2018, 06:05 PM   #13
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I second what 2LZ stated. Great upgrade for the money.... My Rhino pepped right up with it installed.


 
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Old 05-13-2018, 12:21 PM   #14
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Adding insult to injury on the Rhino carburetors. The second unit has a stuck slide. There is some kind of glue substance in the bore. I had a hell of a time getting the slide out. Going to see if acetone will get it out and then WD-40 the slide and see if it frees up. Glad I did not try to start this one prior to checking operation!!


 
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Old 05-21-2018, 11:27 AM   #15
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Got the new axle from Partskit but looks like the bearings fell out of the damaged box. They evidently just tossed the axle and bearings in a box with no packing to keep it from bouncing around and poking holes in the box.

Also I noticed that the right side hub splines are slowly being damaged by being pushed too far onto the axle. I'll make a support tube to slip over the axle like I did on the ATA250D.


 
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